Cougar

My info shows that the blk/blu wire is for the low speed and the red/blu wire is for the high speed. The blk wire goes to ground. I would check the voltage getting to the motor. If it is ok the problem will be in the motor or there is a excessive mechanical load on the system.

Glad you made it.

You may have a weak fuel pump causing this to happen.

I don't think you can go wrong for that price. If you get it, check the compression of the cylinders to see how they are. It will tell you a lot on what needs to be done to fix this and have a very nice car for almost nothing. You will also have some good backup service advice here if you need it. Just like the PGA golfer commercial says, "These guys are good".

The inhibitor switch is the same thing as a neutral safety switch. It prevents the car from being started when the shifter is not in the Park position. The switch opens and prevents voltage getting to the starter solenoid so the starter cannot work.

The window problem may be due to the motor but I would first suspect the switch as the source of the trouble and then the wires to the motor running through the door jamb before picking on the motor. Checking the voltage at the motor while switching it on will confirm that. Cleaning the switch contacts with some spray cleaner may fix this problem.

Your info sounds to be correct OB99W. Here is a post that GizWiz made about his search for the relay. The neutral colored connector should be easy to see. I have a similar problem on my '91. Thanks to this list, I found my relay behind the panel along the lower edge of the dash, the one containing the little stash box labelled "tray", under the steering wheel. After removing six Philips head screws, the panel dropped off and the relay practically jumped out and said "take me". I swapped the relay with the neutral colored connector with the one that had the colored one, and then my blower came to life (but my fuel pump wouldn't). So now at least I've confirmed the source of the problem. The part number 056700-5260 stated in earlier posts matches mine, and this seems to describe a 12 volt, 22 amp relay. www.importautoparts.com has them listed as the fuel pump relay, and they're only $12.00.

My data shows that the blower relay is behind the left kick panel.

Hopefully by changing the fuel filter you solved the problem of the engine slowly dieing while climbing a long slope. If you still have trouble I would check the fuel pump pressure. You may need a new pump. The problem with the tach may be due to alternator noise and you will need to repair or replace it, if that is the case.

The ground is made through the light switch. Before you start tearing into that you should first confirm that the ground is really the problem. First check the voltage on the middle lead to the lights while the lights are on. You should see 12 volts there with reference to a good ground. If you don't have proper voltage then check the relay for that side. Another thing you can do to prove the ground is to use a ground jumper tied to the outside leads of the light. If the ground is bad then the jumper should make the light work correctly and then you need to check the light switch connections to ground. Be sure to check the connector to the light also for burned contacts as this is a commom failure point.

The problem may be with the relay which is located about in the middle of the dash. Look for a group of 4 relays mounted together. The middle ones are for the lights on each side of the car. I would check the voltage getting to the headlight middle lead and ground before going after a relay. If the voltage on the wire is 12 volts with the light on then you have a bad ground and not a bad relay. If the voltage is low then replace the relay.

After checking your previous posts I wouldn't bother checking the ECU yet. Before you do that you need to see why you are not getting voltage to the coil's plus terminal. Make any voltage measurements with the reference lead of the meter to chassis ground. Check the voltage to the fusible links again and use chassis ground for you reference. You should have voltage to both sides of the links. If that is good then you need to check the ignition switch connector plug in the steering column. You may have a burned contact in the connector.

I think you next check should be the ignition switch connection in the steering column. Look for a burned contact on one of the main wires in the connector. Check the voltage on both sides of the connector with the ignition on.

Welcome to the forum here. Hope you like it. There are some very savy troubleshooters to help you at this site. Good job looking at the rotor for signs of a broken timing belt. It is the first suspect for your kind of car trouble. Since that was ok then your next check should be to see if voltage is getting to both sides of the ignition coil. You will need a voltmeter or test light probe to check those points. If you have no voltage on the plus side of the coil then you need to need to check the fusible links that are in the plastic box mounted on the coolant reservoir. Make sure they are making good contact on both sides. If they are ok then the problem may be with the ignition switch connector in the steering column. Look for a burned connector in the plug. Also be sure fuse #5 is ok along with the others. If the horn works fuse #5 should be ok. Another possibility is a blown out ignitor. Let us know what you find out. If those things are ok we can check other areas. Edit: I forgot to mention that when checking the voltage at the coil you need to have the ignition switch set to ON or RUN.

I agree with OB99W. Any problem with it would be damage to the ECU internally not to external parts. The replacement unit will most likely have no trouble. Hook it up and check it out to be sure.

The black wire may be a ground connection on both the old and the new sensors. Do you have a ohmmeter to check that? Otherwise I don't think it matters which wire goes to a particular color.

The problem is most likely due to worn starter solenoid contacts. They are a common ware item and you can replace them for around $10 dollars.

Good question Ray. After doing some looking around, it may have to do with a 35th year celebration.

You are correct Nathan. It's in the box under the hood. I'm not sure what else it ties to but it may also go to the radio so the radio memory may a or may not be lost by pulling it. Glen

Looking at my info it appears SBF-2 supplies continuous voltage to the ECU.

I commend you DAP on your concern for the environment and if that is your priority I can see why you would want to do the conversion. You stated you are concerned also about costs of fuel to your pocketbook. By doing the conversion you will get less mileage from the car and have some high up front costs to do the work. I would have to wonder how many miles you would have to drive in order to just break even with the costs of conversion. How many liters would $4,500 dollars buy you? Even with tax breaks and less fuel costs included. It seems to me it will take you years of fillups to recover the costs of conversion. There are the added benefits of a cleaner engine and less oil changes though.

After reading OB99W's post, another thought came to mind. It may be good to check and see if the coolant temperature sensor for the ECU is working as it should. This may be causing the mixture to run rich if it doesn't see the temperature go up as the engine warms but also wouldn't throw a error code if the circuit looks ok to the ECU.

The EGR valve and the EGR solenoid are two different things. One is mechanical and the other is electrical. Instructions were given how to solve this problem in earlier posts. I guess it's up to you if you want to solve the problem or not by following them. If it was my car, I would fix the problem and not try to fool the ECU with a resistor so that things are working as they were designed to.

Looking at your test results it looks to me that you may have a intake air leak. Check the intake gaskets and check for any air leaks beyond the MAF sensor. There may also be some carbon buildup in the cylinders. You could try burning them out by sucking some Seafoam into the intake through a vacuum line while reving the engine.

The reason the code is being generated by the ECU is because it sees a problem with current in the EGR solenoid circuit. The ECU needs to see the proper current flow in the circuit or it will send out a code saying there is a problem with the circuit. This is the reason you can fool the ECU using a resistor is because the resistor limits the current to the proper amount the ECU wants to see. It makes the ECU think it sees the solenoid coil resistance. As it was mentioned earlier replacing the solenoid valve may not fix the problem since the trouble may be with the wiring between the ECU and the solenoid. Solenoid coils are pretty reliable so I would think the trouble is really with the connection to it. The problem may also be internal to the ECU. To see if the solenoid coil is ok you can measure the resistance of the coil. If you read something between say 40 and 120 ohms, as a guess, then the coil is good and the problem would appear to be with the connection to the device. My info for a SPFI system shows that the EGR solenoid ties to the ECU on pin 4 with a blue/red wire. You should be able to remove the connector to the ECU while the car is off and measure the resistance of the solenoid between pin 4 of the connector and ground. If the circuit is ok you will see the resistance of the solenoid coil. If you don't, then there is a problem with the wiring or the coil.