Cougar

Thanks for the update. I assume this was fixed under warranty so no cost to you. It is good to know where the relay is.

Those are some of the colors that Subaru uses for their wiring at least. I can't say that sure about the other manufacturers. Also, those ratings are for the regular wire colors. I think the links follow close to those specs. The specs are for safe operation and so I think the actual burn out current is higher.

The black link is 1.25mm(2), allowed current is 21 amps. The red link is .85mm(2) and rated for 16 amps. The green link is .5mm(2), rated for 12 amps.

I love it when it is simple to fix. Thanks for the update.

You can check to see if the blower is the problem by running power directly to the motor. If the motor runs ok, then check the blower relay for a problem.

I like the Baja also and would love to get one. To get some pricing info you can go to Edmunds.com and enter in your data for your area and vehicle options and then get a comparison price. You can also get some quotes from dealers in your area. It is a good time to buy a car and you should be able to save at least $1,400 on the MSRP sticker. You're in the drivers seat for the deal. Set a price you think is fair and watch out for the financing pricing game. Get a total cash price and hopefully you already have your own financing. It looks like Subaru is offeriing 0% financing for a limited time for those with good credit and also $500 customer cash for '06 models in stock. Offer ends 9/5. Keep those things in mind also when you go dealing. You may be able to get $2,500 or more knocked off the MSRP.

If you follow my suggestions in post #5 you will quickly know what needs to be done to fix the trouble. You can also make a lead for the power side if you suspect the trouble is in the power buss wiring. It would be good to have a fuse at the battery end though in case you touch a ground point.

Usually the wire for the display is tied into the dash lights so the radio display will dim along with the rest of the dash lights.

The dimming problem may also be due to a bad power connection to the lighting supply circuit. To see if you do have a bad ground you can make a long ground jumper lead using some #14 or #12 gauge wire. Clip one end to the negative battery lead and the other to suspected bad ground areas like the dash. If there is a bad connection the problem will clear with the jumper lead connected. To see if there is a problem with the supply power using a meter, tie the meter common lead to a known good ground. Then check the voltage of the supply power before and after turning on some sort of load like the brake lights. If the voltage drops more than about 0.5 volts with the load on then there may be excessive resitance in the supply circuit and you need to back track the supply lead to find the bad connection.

I would guess that the lock switch is causing that to happen.

Looking at the problems on the outer sides of the lobes it looks to me that the cam was poorly cast.

If you are sure that the droplets are water then it would appear that there is a headgasket problem. Fuel doesn't bead up on the plugs like water does, it just soaks the plugs. It sounds like you still haven't checked for spark getting to the plugs yet. Place one of the old ones (if you haven't thrown them away yet) in one of the wires and place the plug on a good engine ground point. Then crank the engine to see if you get spark across the gap.

Thanks for the update. Good call by GD and NorthWet.

I would definately get a meter and a test light probe to check the connections with. You just can't look at things and say they are good and know for sure that they ok. With a meter and test probe to check with you will know for sure. One thing you can try Sweden is use a jumper wire to manually bypass the switch to see if that helps. If that doesn't do anything then I would suspect there may be broken wires in the door jamb harness that tie to that switch.

If the unit is behind the instrument cluster as the dealer says it is, you may have to remove the cluster to get at it.

If you didn't check the fuses and the fusible links to make sure they were ok I would do that. It would also be good to have a test light probe on hand to make sure power is getting to where it should be. I suspect that something has blown a fuse for power to the fuel pump.

To help indentify the problem area you could try unplgging things that were not connected before and allowed the engine to run. Then connect the plugs one at a time to see how if effects the engine. I assume you have checked all the fuses for any problem there and especially power to the fuel pump. Does this model have a fuel pump shut off switch in case of an accident?

It sounds to me you may need to get a block check done to check for exhaust gases in the coolant. If that test shows things ok then it may be the thermostat causing this trouble.

Your welcome for the help Phil. Glad you got it running. I suspect you are correct about the fuse blowing because the connector pins were not aligned correctly. There may have been aproblem with the fusible link also. You need to make sure they have good contact with the connectors. God bless you too. Glen

A link can be bad internally and you wouldn't know it just by looking at it. You either need to feel the flex in it or use a meter to check it.

Welcome to the forum here. Glad to hear your dad likes the Soob. I also agree with the others with the gas cap being the problem. The other choices I would guess are the O2 sensor or the knock sensor, though I would think the shop would say something if it were one of them causing this error. You can mention to your dad that the CEL light is there mainly for the engine emissions system operation so when it turns on it isn't a real emergency when it comes on but it should be checked into when it can be arranged to do so.

Did you check the fusible links to see if they are ok? They are in the plastic box mounted on the coolant reservoir. My guess is that one of them is open. Check the green ones particularly. The problem may also be with the ignition switch or the connector to it. Along with checking the fuses you need to check for power at the fuses to see if there is really power there.

Your welcome.

The sound may be due to a problem in the drive assembly. You might try swapping rear tires to see if it changes anything. It sounds like the dealers are trying to pass you off.

Since the console light works intermittently it means that there is a loose connection somewhere. I would check the bulb and socket first for the trouble. The problem with the seat heater switch light may be due to a burnt out bulb. This is common. You can replace the bulb but it takes some doing as the bulb is in the switch assembly. I think there is some info about doing this that can be found if you do a search. Edit Here is some info that may help you if you decide to do this yourself. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=26986&highlight=seat+heater+bulb