Cougar

That will work as well of course. Since the engine can be started then maybe the trouble is with the wiring to the dash.

Hopefully you are using something like a test light probe to prove that power is getting to where it needs to be. The trouble may be with the ignition switch wiring.

If none of the warning lights in the dash are turning on then you have a power problem. Check the fusible links in the plastic box mounted on the coolant reservoir. Also check the fuses under the hood.

I assume that the light switch makes a ground connection for the relay coils to turn on the headlight relays and may also make the connection to ground for the lights. Since you aren't even getting power to the lights then I assume the relays aren't turning on. The later version of headlights work in this manner so I am thinking it is that they work on your model also.

I think there is a trailer harness located in the left rear area of the car. Have you checked that?

It would be good to know if the battery warning light turns on when you turn the key to the RUN position. It is important that the light functions in that mode because it supplies power to the alternator field windings. If power doesn't get to the windings then the alternator can't produce any power. The warning light is basically grounded through the field windings in that mode so there will be a low voltage at that back side connection point until the alternator field builds up while running. Then you will have some backfeed from the alternator which turns the warning light off and shows the alternator is working. The other wire is a battery sense wire and should be close to the battery voltage.

Have you checked to see if the throttle position sensor has a dead spot at the low end of it?

The clock issue is a common complaint. Do a search on clock repair and you should be able to find the thread that includes pictures of the repair by resoldering resistor 501.

This is a stange one alright. I would have to suspect the converter is causing the trouble. The power for the taillights is causing the brake/blinker light problem. Also, if the grounding for the right side lights isn't wired like it should be I could see where power being applied to the running lights could cut off the return to ground for the brake/blinker lights.

It should have one I believe. You can trick the ECU circuit by substituting the sensor with a resistor. Someone may have done that.

If you haven't verified that the disty is spinning when you crank the engine by removing the distributor cap then check that out. If iti isn't spinning then there is most likely a broken timing belt. If that is ok then I would guess the ignitor is the next best bet.

You're welcome for the help. Glad to hear you fixed it and thanks for the feedback.

Make sure the battery is ok and there isn't a problem with the wire between the battery and the main output terminal on the alternator.

If the oil pump does start to leak it won't leak oil out of the engine. The oil still stays inside it. I wouldn't be real concerned about it. Just make sure to do the oil changes every 3k miles and make sure the other fluids are ok by checking them every so often.

Welcome to the forum. The trouble you are having is most likely due to one of the brake light bulb filaments is touching the running light filaments inside one of the bulbs. This kind of trouble is fairly common. When the brake is pressed voltage gets backfed through the filaments of the crossed running light to the instrument lighting circuit. Remove a brake light from one side and see if the other side works ok then. If there is still a problem then the one left installed should be the bad one.

Excessive ripple voltage from bad diodes in the alternator was most likely causing the warning lights to glow dimly. Replace the alternator with a known good one. You may want to replace the VR also at the same time. Be sure the battery is in good shape too.

That sounds like a good plan to me also. You have the real expensive fixes taken care of already. Hopefully the rest of the items don't give you any trouble in the meantime. I would say chances are pretty good you will be fine until then. If not you at least can take advantage of the good advice from here at this site. It also looks like we live in in the same neck of the woods so if you really need some help I may be able give a hand.

Oil leaks, headgaskets, timing belts, radiator, and alternator, plus more, are all things you may need to replace or work on with a car that old. In my opinion a person that can't save money on service shop bills by working on an older car themselves may be better off having a newer car that doesn't need a lot of maintenance, even if you need to borrow some money and take on a reasonable monthly payment each month. I think it will save you down time and money over the long run. Add up your service bills over the year and see what you are spending to maintain the vehicle.

You could add a switch to supply power to the coil but why not try to fix the trouble. The problem may be in the harness connection under the steering column. There should be a connector there going to the ignition switch and the contacts have been known to go bad. Also check the connection that the switch contacts tie to. The ignition switch may be the trouble.

Then check the plus side of the coil when trying to start it. If the light still goes out there is a problem with the ignition lead to the coil. Somehow voltage is being cut off. It may be the ignition switch causing the trouble.

The ignitor is usually mounted with the coil I think.

Normally you don't check for DC voltage on the high tension lead. The trouble is most likely with the CAS in the disty. Place a test light probe on the minus side of the coil and ground the clip lead. Then crank the engine over and see if the light pulses while cranking. If the light just stays steady on then the problem is with the disty.

It may help to see if there are any codes stored in the ECU that could give a clue to the source of the trouble. As a guess I would check the ignitor for the trouble. Changing it out may solve the trouble.

The key turns the lock which also turns the ignition switch for electrical connection to power. You stated in your original post that the fuel pump stayed running with the ignition off. If that is correct then the ignition switch has a problem. It isn't cutting power off when it should be. It may just be due to an adjustmet problem. The switch may be behind the key lock. Some heavy gauge wires will be going to the switch since they carry a lot of current. Use a test light probe to check the switch connections.

My first suspect for this kind of noise would be a worn out bearing in the idler pulley. Loosen the belt and see if the pulley wobbles.