Cougar

Code P0325 states there is a problem with the knock sensor circuit, not the knock sensor. You need to check the wiring from the ECU to the sensor for a problem. A bad connection at the sensor is the usual cause of this trouble.

Since the main output lead of the alternator is hot to the battery is always a good idea to diconnect the battery ground lead before working on the alterntor lead. Also never disconnect the battery with the engine and alternator running. For those that drive into water higher than a few inches they should be prepared for the worst things to happen.

I suspect the error code stated there was a problem with the circuit and if so you need to check the wiring to the knock sensor for a problem.

It might not help but going over the engine and chassis grounds and cleaning them may clear up excessive noise problems in the electrical system that may be causing the trouble. It has helped some folks in the past with issues like this.

Welcome to the forum here. I agree with GD. This does sound like a CAS problem. I think if you swap in a used disty from a salvage yard like he suggested your troubles with the car will be over, for now at least. The sensors are pretty expensive new so a used one in a disty could save you some money. The ignitor is another thing that causes trouble like GD also stated but the codes indicate the CAS sensor is the trouble. One thing that you might check before replacing the sensor while the trouble is occuring is the power to it. Make sure voltage is getting to it. I think fuse #5 supplies power to it. To verify the fuse at least, the horn should work if the fuse is good since it is on the same circuit I believe.

The code states there is a circuit problem with the MAF sensor so like the others suggested, check the wiring to the MAF for a problem.

Nice job on the photos covering the repair job. As an added note it is always a good idea to clean the battery terminals when that kind of trouble happens as they can cause the same kind of thing to happen if they are making a bad connection.

As it was previously stated there are different protocols used with OBD-2 systems. Since 2008 Canbus is the new standard for all vehicles. I think pre 2001 Subarus use the ISO-9141-2 protocol like Rverdoold stated. Some reader/scanners will work with all the protocols. For those interested check out the EQuus model 3110 or 3130 models. There are other models and manufacturers also. http://www.equus.com/products.php?category_id=1_10_7

The info about the sensor location is correct. As far as a good reader/scanner goes, I like and use the Equus model 3130 by Innova. There are other good brands also available, like Actron. You can get them at Ebay for a good price if you want to go that route.

Having the transmission engage immediately when you shift to Drive is a good sign the valve trouble is fixed. I think you will find the trouble doesn't come back. Hopefully at least, this is the end of this sordid tale.

The newer Subarus use the Canbus protocol but I think the pre 2001 models use ISO-9141. You need to make sure the reader can support that.

Use your voltmeter to check and see if voltage is getting to the ignition switch. If you have no voltage there then you need to find where the open connection is between the switch and the fusible link. Mkae sure the link is making solid connection to the contacts and there is no corrosion.

The clue to the test connectors being connected is the fans being cycled on and off. I'm not sure why the error codes where there though.

My info shows a light green wire is tied to ground and a white/black wire is the signal side for the sensor at the connection you mention.

The dash trouble could be due to a bad ground connection. Check the dash grounds and the grounds under the hood. Since you say the trouble is fixed sometimes by hitting the dash then the trouble is most likely in that area. The reason the lights cause the trouble is due to the current that is flowing when they are on. If there is a bad ground connection then the current flow causes a voltage drop across the bad ground connection which will decrease the voltage available to the dash voltage regulator and make it stop working. The trouble could also be due to a bad connection on the power side of the circuit so check that also. Check the fusible link connections. To help pin the trouble down you might try checking the voltage getting to the dash voltage regulator and reference to a known good ground point. If the voltage is ok there and the dash is out then check the ground side of the dash wiring. See if you find voltage there. If you do, then you know the ground side has a bad connection.

I think there are two speed sensors on the transmission so check that out. Pehaps the one for the ECU is having trouble.

This trouble is most likely due to a problem with the switch contacts in the switch on the transmission. The trouble could also be with one of the terminal connections or a broken wire.

Look for an air leak after the MAF sensor on the driver's side of the engine in the intake or exhaust area before the O2 sensor.

If I remember correctly some others folks here have fixed a misfire problem by replacing the cam sensor and sometimes the O2 sensor.

Since adding fuel into the intake keeps the engine going check the ignition and main relays for a problem. The injectors may not be getting power.

At this point I suggest you check the compression of the cylinders. There may be a timing belt problem. If there is a problem the compression numbers will show it up.

The warning lights are in the field circuit for the alternator so they can be tested when turning the key to ON. When the alternator goes bad those lights will be effected as you saw. Replace the alternator with a good rebuilt one and you should be ok.

If the replacement parts cost even $60 dollars that would be a good deal for new diodes and a regulator.

The radiator fan motor may be bad. I suggest you replace it. After you get the replacement alternator check the current draw on it to make sure that is ok and there isn't an excessive load on the charging system.

You may have some bad intake manifold gaskets that are leaking coolant into the intake. Check them for air leaks also.