Cougar

The black link supplies power to a lot of areas including the alternator and the ignition area. Make sure the alternator is not putting out over 14.8 volts DC and check for any AC voltage also.

If all the fuses are good then make sure the flasher unit is getting power.

The trouble may be with the turn signal flasher or the switch.

Thanks for the confirmation on the wire color Beheinen74. It has been a while since I have worked on a radio harness.

I'm not sure what the color is but it may be dark blue. You should be able to to find out which one it is by checking the voltage on it. When you turn the radio on you should get power on the lead.

The throttle position sensor may have dirty contacts.

Thanks for the update.

Thanks for the feedback.

Check the fusible links for a loose connection. They are in the plastic box mounted on the coolant resevoir. Make sure the contacts are snug and clean. I assume the fuse you are talking about is fuse #5 and it has to be installed in order for the ignition to work along with other less important things. If the engine is able to run without that fuse installed then the wiring has been modified.

Since the lights stay on even while the ignition system is OFF then it sounds to me that the light circuit has been modified from the original design. Normally the power to the lights is cut off with the igintion so even if the ground side of the lights did short to ground before the light switch there would be no power getting to them.

The light switch normally turns on the headlight relays to supply power to the lights by making a ground connection to the relay coil and also provides a ground return for the lights. If your modified wiring is the same way then it looks like you have a wiring going to the light switch that is contacting ground somehow before it gets to the light switch (since you say the lights stay on even with the switch removed). Look for a wire with damaged insulation.

The DC return path for the radio should have a good ground connection tied to the chassis of the radio and to the car body, seperate from the antenna. It shouldn't have to use the antenna lead ground to make connection.

As a test you can also make your own ground lead jumper. Using at least a 14 gauge lead tie one end to the minus side of the battery and the other to a good ground point to see see if that makes any difference. If it does then you have to find the bad ground.

I have to think the fuel pressure regulator is bad. It would be my first suspect at least.

The light switch makes a ground return for the lights. The trouble may be with the switch. I suspect a bad connection is heating up and causing the trouble.

This sounds more like a grounding issue to me than a alternator issue. You may be hearing ignition pulses. Check the antenna ground along with the chassis grounding.

Good advice there 94Loyale.

I assume you mean 'alternator whine' when you say 'feedback' in the radio. It could be due to excessive ripple voltage due to bad diodes in the alternator but also check the grounding to the chassis. Make sure the leads are clean.

Did you puchase a wire harness adapter to go between the existing radio plug and the new radio wiring? If not you need to get one. I think they about 20 dollars. Hopefully you haven't cut the original radio plug off already. Here is some info that may help you also. The constant power may be just green on yours though. Constant 12V+Red/Green Switched 12V+Blue/Yellow Ground Black Illumination Red Doors Left Front (+)Yellow Left Front (-)Blue/Red Right Front (+)White Right Front (-)Blue/Black Left Rear (+)Yellow/White Left Rear (-)Blue/Red Right Rear (+)White/Blue Right Rear (-)Blue/Black

Welcome to the forum. You have come to the right place for Suby troubles. The alternator definitely had a bad voltage regulator inside it and possibly bad diodes also so you did the right thing there in replacing it. As for the other problem I think you may have a bad fusible link connection which is fairly common. The 4 links are in a small plastic box mounted on the coolant reservoir. Look for a loose connection, especially on the black link. They are color coded to indicate current rating so don't mix them up. Just pull one at a time or write down the order they are in if you pull them all out. If you find a loose connection you will need to clean the connection up and make sure the connection fits snug in the contacts.

Good call by Naru about the ignitor. There may be a bad power connection to the ignition or the fuel system causing random shut down. Possibly the ignition relay, main relay, or fuel pump relay. I would suspect the ignition relay first.

Like Nipper, I was thinking of the brake booster and a vacuum leak also. It may be a good idea to check the vacuum using a vacuum gauge to check for a sticky valve also.

Glad to hear its working ok. I still think the trouble is with a switch in the door. Don't be surprised if the trouble comes back again.

Thanks for the confirmation about the cam drive for the disty 94Loyale. If the belt is broken for that side then just removing the disty cap and watching for rotation while cranking the engine will verify the belt status.

You stated the left side of the engine has no compression and I assume you mean the driver side when you say that. I thought the left side cam drove the disty shaft but maybe I am mistaken. If it is the left side then the rotor isn't turning in the disty most likely. I would have to say for sure the timing belt has broke on that side. You couldn't have that low of compression without serious engine damage otherwise and it would be very 'obvious to the most causual observer'.