MorganM

WOW a 2 cyl 600cc Subaru engine?? That sounds like minibike size!

I'm not particularly fond of the Loyales. The are a chopped down GL. Not as many of the cool features Mostly the interior package is what I disliked. I feel like I'm in an old DL when sitting in the Loyale. On the other hand it does sound like its been maintained well and it is 4WD single range. If its not an automatic trans I say go for it. Would make a fine all season daily driver, if that is what you are looking for. I f you are l ooking for a project there are easier / cheaper subarus to start with.

Ya I'm really glad I have 2 jacks, 4 jacks tands, 2 big wood blocks AND the crow bar. They are all needed at some point LOL We used the crow bar alot becuase like you said; we'd have one jack holding something up, another supporting the main X-member or transmission and then need to tweak something just a bit to line up the bolts Tried p ounding those studs out ina very similar way. THen tried the socket trick. Mine were rusted inthere good Ended up going to my friends work (bycicle shop) and using a vise t here. Tryed the drill press and it worked fine but found the vise was easier.

The front is fully lifted! Getting the steering linkage in now might be a fight. Noticed we forgot to put that in while the whole main X-member was plyable Is it easy enough to slide the whole steering colum up? Reamed out that broke off bolt on the rear strut pretty good but ran out of drill bits. Its much larger then anything I got. Then I found some "easy outs" Never used them... are they worth their weight in salt? Things are going good so far! Stuff is *NOT* easy to line up! Requires lots of ninja crow bar action and 2 guys working it to get any of the blocks to line up. To be expected I'm sure on this wagon. She's been through quite a bit Anyhow I need some sleep before Labor Day's events. Everyone party hard tomarrow and I'll talk to you all next week Peace

Ive ran bolts for quite some time. They are a good temporary solution. Latly I've been needing to remove/install the headers so much that they never get too loose. Studs is the proper solution but bolts will get you by. It was a little embarasing on base a year ago when two of the bolts DID come off a header... WOW did it get LOUD and the sparks from my exhuast draging for a few yards was a siight I'm sure Maybe some lock washers would hold them in but then you run into the problem archemitis points out... cant torque them down tight enugh in those aluminum heads

I think PK Davis or BYB555 would be the people to ask about how to fix the camber issue. Shoot them an email and see what they say.

Too bad they didnt get a Subaru GL. I think the writer would have been significantly more impressed. Hell *I* wouldnt even buy a DL

sure, email me your digits to morganm@mnchopshop.org or I can send you my work #

I'd be happy to go on a parts run. I really dont need any more (need to get all the ones I've bought over the years on first!) but I'm always down for a junkyard run! Only thing I can think that I could really use are rear dics assemblies to swap on.

That really sucks Those are some low numbers for the left head. What all was done on this motor that was put in?

wow looks like you were ABOUT to lift a wheel into that turn!

And dont forget to double check your bolt torque after a thousand miles!!! Or you will end up like me and blow your intake manifold gaskets 2000 miles

I dig that setup Skip. How does your low end compare to the OEM Y pipe? And how upset would you be at me stealing that idea ? hehe I just cant seem to get my hands on a "donated" used Y pipe. If the friggin EPA would back off of selling used cats I'd be fine

20 washers... that looks like something *I* would do!

If you can raise her a good 3 inches it shouldnt be a problem unbolting the mounts. All of the motor mount bolts can be accessed even with it sitting on the X member (its tough but possible) so with about 3" of clearance you shouldnt have much of a problem. Then you'll prolly have to come a few inches higher to wiggle them out since the stud hodling them to the X member is pretty long. Might have to undoo transmision mounts and main engine stabalizer bar also. Prolly some misc. vacume lines and what not that will limit you but I think its possible w/o actually unhooking the engine from the tranny. Good luck

Well you are in luck! I just happen to sell parts See my signature if you are interested. Whatever you need that isnt listed just send me an email. I'm sure I can find it

Define "big pedal effort"... do you have to pump up for pressure? Are they just REALLY hard to push down?

A compression test is NOT a deffinitive answer to headgasket or head cracks. However I HIGHLY doubt this engine has sufferd such severe damage. Sounds like a typical invoice. A bit on the high side but what did they charge for labor? Then theres good old uncle sam stepping in for his share (read: taxes) While they didnt necesarily get ripped off its nothing I (or you I'm sure) would pay to have the waterpump tube fixed. I bet you see another load of RTV like you found before =P

All your cooling system parts good to go? Thermostat, radiator, fans, fan thermo switch, coolant mix, good hoses... Coolant system getting plenty of air flow?

oobnuker: I was going to do this a while back; but there are FAR more things that NEED to get done on it Plus someone needs it for their real EA82t since their manifold is hosed so I'm happy to give it a good home. Of course I would have done it with a cast iron cut out so I could switch between smoke stack and something more subtle. I KNOW how loud dual straight pipes are... I dont even WANT to know how loud a smoke stack for both heads right in front of me would have sounded like!

Here's the short answer... The engine will fit and you can make it work however the EJ22 does not mate upto the old transmissions. You will also need to swap in the Legacy transmission. An adapter plate can be made to fit an EJ22 to an older transmission also. The conversion is possible however if you are so inclined to make a 2.2 Loyale

Adam: I have a feeling your engine mods do you alot of justice. You are actually utilizing 2" of flow plus dont you have a cross over tube? That helps alot also. The 90" bends prolly give you some good pressure also with the mufflers. Dont you have some pics of that system? I thought I seen some and it looked sick. If I was gonna go duals id prolly do a similar setup.

A friend came over lastnight and we got the knuckles off. Thanks for the suggestions tho! What did it was jacking the main X member and engine back up another 2 inches to give the suspension more play. Then it was just a matter of the BFH and 1" chisel. As for the brackets I'll try that trick for sure ByTheSea. If that dont work I'll just make new ones. The guy that came over lastnight has easy access to a drill press at the bicycle shop so I'll just buy some metal, measure up everything and have him drill them out for me. We also had a rough time getting the last rear strut out. ONe of those THICK bolts that hold them in SNAPED! LOL Guess we went a little overboard with the 18" breaker bar and 24" cheater but after the impact wrench and 120 PSI at the tank we had to do something drastic. Any ideas how to get the remainting half inch of STUCK bolt out? I'm thinking lots and lots of drilling IT was AWSOME however putting on the first blocks! Bolted on the extensions for the top of the front struts. THe blocks dont look that tall just sitting there but when you put it ontop of your strut its like adding another 1/4 of the overal height! It was neat Anyway back to work for me >:| Peace

Honestly I think she is fine, short of whatever cuased her to overheat. Engines are VERY robust. They continue to supprise me at every turn. I used to think they were very touchy and suseptible to seriouse breakage but the more I work on/with them the more this gets disproved. Subarus are rough and tough and I'm sure your engine is fine

IVe had lots of straight pipes on my EA82 SPFI. Nothing beats a good Y pipe on these guys in my opinion. With true duals they are just gutless on the lowend. With all the straight pipes ive had sure it breathed well on the top end but um... EA82s have no top end (N/A) The things just do not make power past 5k RPMs so all that free flow at high RPMs is just a waste. When I've had Y pipes on the difference in low end torque was considerable. The only reason I keep straping on dual straight pipes is becuase its so damn cheap and easy. Its more of a crutch to get the thing on the road then a performance mod. Oh and dear Lord do these things sound MEAN with dual straight pipes! but belive me when you have to fly down the highway at 4k RPMs for an hour that gets old REAL fast Currently I have on OEM headers, cut off and welded onto 1.75" with a slight bend just to make them hug the body. If you put on just straight pipes they will be touching the ground before they reach the rear floor boards so you gotta have that slight bend. It sounds very pissed off and works like crap. Suprisingly these are the better of the straight pipes ive put on her. Needless to say I am trying to locate an OEM Y pipe to put back on. I built a Y pipe that worked OK but the left header flange wouldnt mate to the head flush so it leaked. Even with a leak RIGHT at the heads my low end was 2 times better then ANY of the straight pipes that had ever been on. I think a gutted OEM Y pipe woul be perfect. Everything after that would just be for show/sound I remember reading a Proshe site that talked about this. And they were saying how a Y pipe is superior on boxers due to the fire order. On the EA82s the fire order is 1 3 2 4. So you are firing one head then the other. This creates a larger gap betwen 3 and 2 then betwehn 1 - 3 and 2 - 4. So if you true duals you are not promoting the scavanging effect on every fire, only on 1 to 3 and 2 to 4. This cuases performance issues on the low end due to a lower rate of pulses entering the pipes. I dunno but I've rambled on long enough here.. just get a Y pipe and do whatever you want after the cat