yarikoptic

well.. I'm not sure if differential oil is what you need to change... it seems that most people are talking about flushing AT fluid while trying to fix binding. power flush of AT is quite expensive. As for change of differential oil - that darn simple - drain from the bottom, fill in from top :-) As for back differential - the only note is first to make sure that you can take of top bolt so you can measure the level, otherwise if you drain it and then discover that you can't fill it in now - sad experience For me it was enough to change tires + change AT fluid and front differential oil (just because I was doing all this crap) besides that - try to do some 8s in the reverse on some parking deck - it might brake your binding.

Heh... called them and for a new one I need to pay 20$ more for shipping because it is not stocked... heheh... so probably I will go for remanuf. Also I can't reach the guy at whose driveway I was going to do the job... so I think I end up taking my car apart upfront of Autozone (at least I can rent puller and may be smth else I need in case). When I take axle off I will decide if I need just a boot or the whole beast. Any advice on how to determine how reliable CV joint is? as for driving a car it sounds fine... what is permittable amount of felt by hands backlash?

Hi All, As I reported elsewhere I've found my inner boot BAAD yesterday (although I didn't mention that it was torn day before) so I'm about to fix it... Struggling either to do with replacing just a boot (15$ parts) or whole shaft (because seems to be the same amount of work) I'm choosing between new (75$) (LLT warranty) and remanufactured (55$) (3 month warranty) CV from autozone. Because it is already that 15$ problem might become 5 times "richer" in value, I really consider reman one. Did you use "VALUCRAFT EPV CV HALFSHAFT (REMANUFACTURED)", any oppinions would be greatly appreciated.

There must be an autozone around who will read the codes for you for free. The others will charge

I have a 1995 legacy and passenger inner front boot is gone... It seems that it is gone just a day or two ago - I saw it yesterday and there were not much greese "around", today is much more, so I suspect that it cracked before but now it has cracked really badly just 2 days ago. CV behaves well. So I'm thinking about investing just 15$ to change boot while leaving CV for good. Do you think it is possible to change the boot on 1995 without pulling the axle? I would say that it can be tricky - exhaust is right underneath... though it is just changing boot - nothing fancy :-) And BTW I will change oxy sensor which I already got :-)

I'm still struggling... can't decide and found another nice one, it is a bit more expensive but it supports CAN and in general they claim that it would be possible to upgrade interface ship fw for future releases... also they claim to report not only Pxxx codes descriptions but query for " P, B, C and U codes definitions included." Here it is

Good news - another "+" for this interface... I've tried though to contact the author to ask if there are any discounts available (like obd-ii does from time to time for students etc :-)) -- no reply whatsoever.

I can't make up my mind which interface I should get and if there are any subtle differences between them I consider www.scantool.net (100$ just ISO) digimoto (just ISO) (119$ if with sw, 89$ without, but can I use any other??) obddiagnostics.com (all interfaces but CAN, 96$) obd-ii.com (website is down now - spring break :-) but I recall it is also around 100$) Is there anything I should worry about while choosing between them? all of the provided sw seem to do basic codes pooling / logging. I just can't decide... I kinda like obddiagnostics that it supports all the interfaces but how often I would need that? most of the time I will work on my subaru...

I've discovered problem with my ABS even though my ABS light wasn't on. I discovered that because I mixed up 6th pin with 5th pin on a diagnostic connector darn... I can't find how to attach files with description of the procedure and codes.... will report later... REVISED: HERE you can grab an ABS.rar file which contains necessary manuals. I'm sorry I don't remember where I got them but I recall that one of the subaru forums has all of them somewhere... mah be even USMB

MAF sensors? the one for 200$? :-) was it dusty? well - probably I should look in mine as well because codes from ECU and TCU said about MAF sensor failure... but after reset of them + stalling again, the same codes weren't present so I thought that it is not it...

Does this problem I have sound familiar? So AT Temp light was blinking... did you readout the codes from TCU?

oops - it seems that I've found an answer to the first questions but what can I do about disks?

Are you talking about MV6830 Mityvac Brake Bleeder or 07000 Mityvac Vacuum Pump Thanx btw - autozone doesn't say that it is Mityvac...

I'm going to bleed the brakes on my AWD legacy L 95 wagon (with ABS), but I've got a couple of small questions 1. Amount of DOT-3 fluid necessary to completely bleed the system? is 1qt enough? or I better grab 2? 2. I'm confused because many people said that the right sequence is X pattern (and here) but they were laughed at in the first thread at least. So it is really a model specific I assume depending on how the system organized. Regular sense says that it should be RP, RD,FP,FD just judging by the distance to MC; so I don't understand why X (RP,FD,RD,FP) pattern for some cars... Any way - what is the right sequence for me? :-)) BTW a tiny question about brakes: I've changed front discs, pads but I still feel pulsation and periodic noise when I brake slowly... I tight up wheels properly (right torque, right sequence)... so does it mean that pad where wheel sit is bad already? what can I do about it?

What days came to my life -- I've halted 30k$ RAID at work, my car stall again today 3 times (all the time it was moving in a jam with speed around 5-10mph so no disaster) but what even worse is that twice on high speed with rpms in 2-3k range it was like suddenly dropping 400-500 rpms, gas pedal was becoming soft, but then it was kicking back in so it didn't really stall but that didn't feel nice :-\ In the eveing I checked TCU codes and this time it reported only one code: 23 - engine speed signal so no more air mass signal (uff, may be I will save 200 on that one at least) I didn't have chance to get to Autozone to read any trouble codes from ECU if any were stored (CEL light is off) As I understand, oxygen sensor which was reported as bad can't do any crazy staff like what I've reported, can TCU 23 signal informing about the real problem? Anyway I'm going to order sensor from oxygensensors.com (walker universal 250-23000) because it seems to be a good price and might be good thing to do in general, but I'm lost in attempts to solve my problem. Also can anyone recommend me reasonably priced OBD-II interface to PC (or Palm) so I can save me trips to autozone to read damn codes. but I want not a simple code reader but an interface so I could track the changes in reported values... Any suggestions on proven to work on Subaru interfaces are welcome.

Look at the bottom in Similar Threads - they have a lot of relevant info Also there is an article in the library of legacy central

Thank you 777 That is about what I thought -- I've reset CUs today by disconnecting from the battery, after that I checked TCU and it didn't throw any codes. I'm going to get codes tomorrow as well (we will be driving a bit) and definetly after it halts again. Any ideas for engine speed signal? I kinda doubt that it is just a harness between ECU and TCU...

Here is me back asking for help Here is the short story after my lost Saturday car-research: indeed there are codes in TCU and ECU. TCU reports: 22 - mass airflow signal 23 - engine speed signal ECU reports P0100 -MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION P0130 -FRONT OXYGEN SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION (FO2 -- V) (I've got some for ABS system as well but that must be a separate story) I've checked air flow connector, seems ok although one of the wires might be broken - it was twisted to much at some point... What should I do next to resolve my engine halting problem (yesterday I stall twice after driving for a while and then driving slow in traffic - pretty much at idle 10mph)? Should I rush and change oxygen sensor (I did the OBD reading at Autozone -- paranoid me says that their device gives 130 code randomly to boost sales of the oxy sensors)? What are other pins on the diagnostic connector? 5 - AT 6 - ABS rest ??? Thank you in advance

Thank you a lot for the information!

I've got mine at Pep Boys... Does it mean that I've made mistake while looking for a specific model number? (I haven't tried to install it yet)

Does any one of you dealt with MOD which is shipped on CD(s)? Is it any good or it just awkward to don't have manual in hands whenever it is really necessary?

I have my pan patched (this is in what condition I baught it). Although it seems to don't leak, nobody knows if the patching glue doesn't interfere with engine oil, so I think it would be safer just to replace a whole pan. I've done change of crankshaft bearings on my Nissan before, so I think I will be fine replacing this pan on my own, although some questions come to mind: can you recommend any places where I can find replacement pan for cheap or just junkyards (not many of the ones around my area have subaru's to my knowledge)? on nissan I was using high temp silicon to seal the pan when I place it back, should I use it here or there is a gasket to buy? Thanx in advance

Hello again, Taking the advice from previous inqury http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=30681 on how to deal with rusty bolts, I've got left threaded drill bits as well as extractors (having quite many rusty bolts, I've decided it might be a wise investement) -Irwin Hanson set. So now I will be able to get them off I believe but I need to get ready -- find bolts to substitute the bad ones I will take off. Can anybody advise me on the size of such on Legacy 1995 AT Wagon? May be parts numbers and I would be able to find using google...? Thank you in advance

Probably I will not provide any usefull insides but.... It is cold now so I need to warm up my old lady before driving it away. When it is warming up, smell of exhaust is really not that pleasant one and it really surrounds the car if there is no wind, that is why I usually place my AC on inside circulation to don't grab any exhaust from outside. In your case, indeed, I would check all the hoses under the hood,

do you remember which model do you have?