Tbird Man

Yeah, I prefer the older style impreza, espcially for the 2dr option. as fas as reliabliy, they are all about the same, the legacy is bigger so tends to have a bit more wear&tear, but not too much, and the forester is a modified impreza chassis. FHI was one of the first companies to really adopt the idea of universal designs, the basic design of all their models is the same.even moreso the drivetrains are practicly identical on many. so a motor from a forester could go into a legacy or impreza and the other way around (except the EZ30). as far as i know, but for maybe fleet sales there is no more "base model" (L)Impreza. It is the 2.5rs sedan, 2.5ts wagon, OBS or WRX since 2002.

Ha, no sense in waxing this thing, its got a 6" rub dent from a tight parking spot, a key scratch the whole length of the drivers side and a few dings, I might try to either touch up the scratches or maybe i can polish them out, but the dent will need bondo as it starts in the drivers door and crosses to the seam. anyway, as I said, the ABS sensor was the biggest change so odds are it is the culpret.

well i imaganr the fluid may be low, but as this happened directly after the non abs hub swap, Ockham's Razor holds that that is the likely culpret.

the impreza switched bodystyles in 01, and headlights in 03, legacy just got its makeover on 00 and another in 04. forester got its first makeover in 03.

you could get a 01 OBS with the 2.2 and put the extra money into upgrades or just things like replaceing brakes and shocks. or a 02-03 OBS with the 2.5. or you could go with a 98-02 Forester, again with a 2.5. basicly go to www.kbb.com and just try different options and see what you can afford.

I really think subaru should make an impreza based Brat, I bet they would sell to the people who want a truck's utility and a cars ease of driveing and mileage. If I did this I would deffinitly use an OBS though. maybe I can find a rear ended one?

http://sites.rapidus.net/labrecqj/justywrx/mods.html as you can see, if you look closely you can see the diff output just behind the srtut tube, seems fairly lined up to me.

I agree that a dash swap would be cool. you could mesure the difference and find a section in the new dash to cut out and then either cover it in vinyl, or bondo and paint it.

I think this would probibly destroy a Rokon, no offence. http://www.christini.com/motorcycle/index.php

Well, I think for now I can just deal with the light.

oh, and the only info i found on subie AWD motorcycles was a spoof. http://www.soundrider.com/Apr06/subaru_AWD_motorcycles.htm link at the bottom takes you to a page explaining it was a spoof.

Hey, I think its creative, I have even thought of the same thing. you really need to like the brat to get this. I think "hidious" is rather insulting, the work itself is well done. if you don't like the idea fine, but I for one woulden't mind getting an old 4 door and doing this myself. Though I would go a step further and split the taillights and made an actual tailgate.

also if you want to go a bit more sporty the impreza 2.5rs is a little lower key than the WRX and is lighter which is beneficial to every aspect of vehicle dyanmics.

this is also a long shot and would have more savere, repeted thumping up hill at higher speeds. this started to happen to me and i discoveed the axle stub shaft had popped out of the tranny and the thumping was the AWD (now RWD) kicking on and off. although this would also manifest itself accelerateing from a stop.

Well, I haven't noticed any wierdness since i fixed the pressures, And I know the different pressures can be bad on the AWD system on manuals but the auto tends to be more forgiveing. also i didn't drive far like that. as for the brake light i think i will just ignore it for a while until I can afford to get an ABS hub. as I said the ABS dosen't work anyway so the only other issue is the AWD, anyone know if the 4eat AWD uses wheel sensors or what? oh and if there was gonna be damage to the AWD i think it would have happened when my front axle popped out and I had to limp about 20mi in rwd (I pushed the "manual" button in) in hilly country, but the awd still seems fine.

Well, got my car back form the shop after haveing them replace the drivers front hub, not the "brake" light is lit. turns out we got a non ABS hub so they coulden't hook the sensor up. It isn't that big of a deal as my ABS didn't work anyway. my question is can i do something to the ABS sensor pluc to shut the light off? It is really annoying. on a side note, the shop claims to have aligned it but obviously didn't cheak tire pressures beforehand. the drivers front had 60lbs(my fault i filled it late at night from a local gas station that dosen't have a gauge on the nozzle) pass. front had 20lbs and both rears had around 11-12lbs, I am thinking of going back and asking for a re alignment now that I corrected the pressures. do you think I should?

another option would be to put it in park with one front and one rear axle disconnected, though that could be hard on diffs (and obviously no LSD).

Well, after a little more "persuasion" with the air chisle the nuts came off. no biggie bolts are ok so new nuts is all I need. the car is at the shop now so I should have it back soon. oh and FYI, Boone is a small town, no SEARS, closest thing is "S"LOWS or Advance. Though I do think I will take the whole "beer" thing to heart.

I am suprised nobody suggested a 95-99 OBS. a little smaller but alot lighter. that 2.2 works alot easier to throw it around. though I am forced to say I can't speak well of the ease of repair of my 95 impreza coupe (same as OBS -2dr, -wagon rear, -some gorund clearence,) as I am haveing a hell of a time with rusted bolts, that is what 200k on salty NC mountian roads will do I suppose.

1. I cannot drive it as is, the hub is borken 2. the axle nut is no longer the problem, it is the bolts holding on the driveshaft. I am gonna try to just air-chisle them off and have it done with. edit: scratch that the air chisle did nothing......I really wish SOMETHING on this damn car would go right........this is really stressing me out. all this beacuse of a (*&$#%$^ 80c spring clip.................................

I HATE SALT! ok, so we decided we can't really afford to futz around with it ourselfs any longer, so we are going to get it towed to a shop. Only problem is the shop that is towing it dosen't have a rollback, so i try to disconnect the driveshaft but the only 12mm wrench I have is a tubeing wrench and that is too flexable and tries to slip. these rusted bolts are REALLY upsetting me!

Yeah, it was a 1/2in breaker bar and the socket wasent a perfect fit so I didn't want to break the tool or strip the nut. and also there is no cotter pin on it, it has a flange around the nut that you bend in. I tried to bend it back but ended up grinding it off so i will probibly need a new nut.

Of course he beat you, he's the burninator.

Well, after trying everything we're just gonna have to take it to a local mech. he has a hevy duty impact gun (he changes tires and dose some work on big trucks) that should loosen it. also got a hub/rotor/caliper assy. for $50.00. edit: like I said, we tried a 2ft breaker bar and neither I nor my dad could budge it.

I am getting tired of this car, now I can't get the axle nut off....i have tried everything short of a cheater bar. dose it maybe have a left hand thread? this is just one thing after another.