Tbird Man

Well looks like a new hub for me. it seems the easy out expanded the rusted shank and pulled a chinese finger trap effect. while trying to punch it out the whole peice that holds the shank and a sizeable chunk of the ball joint hole broke off. that was with penetrateing oil and we were gonna try heat if that didn't work but looking at it I doubt it would work, the easy out acted like the temporary plumbing plugs they use when pressure testing plumbing. I am looking now for a new hub so wish me luck.

Yeah, my old '88 Bronco II had the air inlet behind the front bumper and I stalled that a couple times crossing a flooded low water bridge near my house. that gets alot of people who buy SUVs in trouble, assumeing they can cross deeper water than the truck will allow. as for the snorkle, the best way to avoid water is to put the hose through the firewall and into the cabin. and don't forget to extend the exaust in case you stall in water and flood the exaust and/or engine (particularly easy on a boxer engine)

I HATE EASYOUTS!!!!! the tip of this thing is absolutly STUCK in there. I drilled out the back side and tried to punch the tip out from behind, no dice. bent/ruined 3 drill bits (useing them as a punch) and it didn't budge, we're gonna try to get a longer punch but i am not holding my breath. I may try to get a JY hub, but the bolts holding the strut on are rusted locked, and they were off only about 6mo ago...damn salt. no way can I drill through the easy out so a new hub may be the only recourse. otherwise a machine shop would likely have to plasma cut the easy out out. and all this beacuse of an .80c spring clip....................

Well...I am getting about fed up with this car. got the axle back in but when i went to replace the balljoint the head of the bolt in the hub broke off:banghead: . I tried an easy out but that did nothing. then I tried drilling through it and that didn't help, now it looks like I may need to just get a new hub or take the old one to a machine shop to get the remains of the bolt, and tip of the easy out that broke off, out.another option would be to drill the hole out more and fitting a longer bolt through with a nut on the backside and of course a lock washer.

Well finally got the axle pulled fully out of the transmission for more info on this see my previous post "Cheapest place for '95 impreza axles" . the spring clip is fortunately still on the stub shaft so no fishing in the diffcase for it. unfortunately it is slightly flattened on one side so I am gonna try turning it around and putting it back in. my question is is there some bigger problem that could have caused this or can the clip just wear out?

from what I have heard the EJ d/r low range was not near as low as the earlier ones, makeing it less usefull for larger tires and such.

well, one good thing came of this, while trying to get the axle out I discovered I have a balljoint going out.

well, the first thing i might try is driveing the roll pin out of the axle and seeing if I can pop the shaft back in, the shop i went knows nothing about subie trannies so they assumed it used a C clip to hold the shaft in. I am not sure how hard they tried to put the shaft in the clip COULD still be in the right place in the tranny. if that dosent work i will try to drain the diff and see if I can't get the clip or whatevers left of it out. I doubt a HW or even auto parts store would have the exact right clip and it really needs to be right.

1275cc came in the midget MK.III's from '65 to '74 and made about 60hp. it is basicly the same motor as the eariler 948 and 1098cc motors. from '74 to '80 when it was discontinued the Midget had a 1493cc (1500) engine from its rivel the Trimuph Spitfire. I happen to own two midgets and had thought about the 4wd subaru idea but i woulden't want to destroy the excellent weight balance of the MG.

Did you ever get this problem fixed? also are you planning to do a rear window scoop for that I/C?

also if you really want to do some serious fab work you can do it mid engine RWD with a subie Fwd tranny. should handle alot better but you'll lose the back seat.

also look at www.USA6x6.com . they have a nice over axle gear box that you might be able to modify for the subie diff. it is designed to replace the pinion flange on Corp 14 Bolt OR 9 inch Ford rearends. they run around $2700 so not cheap. you could also do your own cheaper with 2 sprockets and a chain. also load shareing suspension is important for stability on roads. as for steering, I suppose the center wheels could steer, but usually they try to put the steering on the rear axle to tighten the turning radius. also you will need to do the math to figure the ratio out. again this could adversly affect the stabiliyt at speeds above 35-40.

How far did the bum fly?

...Modified beer keg/gas tank in the back?

ok, update. Axle was not broken, the stub shaft came out and is fine. it seems the spring clip must have broken and allowed the stub shaft to come loose. Ordered 2 clips from Subaru but they won't be in ti'll next week. I am going to drain the diff and see if I can find the clip in there. anywhere else I can get the clip? the local JY didn't even know you could pull the stub shaft out. and what are the odds the clip will cause problems in the diff?

Well, I picked up a used axle from a local jy for $40, but the shop installing it claims the only problem is the "input shaft", which I am assumeing means the stub shaft, broke off and he claims the transmission has to be taken out to fix it. now let me say, I trust this guy in general but i get the feeling he might not know what he is talking about. I was under the impression the stub shaft could easily be removed from outside. I am pretty sure the pinion is ok as varying the throttle would change the speedo reading which reads off the front diff so that is turning. also I am pretty sure the outer CV is broken beacuse I could roll the car back and fourth and the axle shaft didn't turn. anyone have any illistrations or pisc on how the axle mates to the diff on the 4EAT?

Called NAPA and Advance. the prices i was quoted were 68 at NAPA and 59 at Advance but i forgot to specificly request reman so i think i will swing by both places before i buy one.

I remember the Canadian 2.0t powered justy, even had the rad up front, but they had to basicly eliminate the front bumber bar. might be problematic for inspections. that thing was sick, it outpulled a WRX from hwy speeds with 4 passengers. same guy has a Chevy cavalier with a GM supercharged 3800 V6(same as in the Buick Regals).

Yeah, I was just wondering if it had been done. oh and BTW, the fuse trick dosen't make it full FWD, it reduces the output to 90/10 F/R IIRC. hense it being for limp, you can still damage the center diff if you drive around on it like that with say, a smaller rear wheel. the reason i ask is I have cheap tires and I flog my car alot, and air pressure is hard to keep constant. I fear this could have led to the wear on my axle. Also, what are the odds i can get just a CV joint and reuse the axle? that would make things cheaper.

Some companies were able to fudge through loopholes but had to switch over asap, Subaru was one. funny thing is I think the Legacys were OBD-II in 95 or so, weren't they?

Well, on my way to work today my car started to shudder a bit and the tranny was slipping, after a little pokeing around I found the left front axle was borked. Made it to work keeping it below 35 in RWD (auto tranny so hopefully i didn't burn up the clutch packs) anyone know where I can get a cheap axle, i'll try the local JY but i was hopeing to find a cheap reman for about $75.00. Edit: also has anyone tried to convert to fwd by takeing out the drive shaft and figureing a way to keep the yolk in?

I don't see why it woulden't work. you could even try to rig a bowflex type system to fine tune the stiffness.

I would say almost certinly an EZ30 or EZ30R, its lighter and more compact than the EJ33.

Engine: with a little work ANY subie engine can be made to fit (ok ALOT of work for the EJ33 and EZ30) Brakes: again with a bt of ingunity and wokr brakes can be swapped. Tranny: it should, but the EJ series (all imprezas and legs from earily 90s up) tranny should swap in with perhaps as little as a custom driveshaft and a bit of massaging. WIREING: wireing will be the bigest chore, LOTS of wires and the harness will be way longer than you can use so you either have to stuff the remainder somewhere or shorten it.

Also this could be a good time to simplify things and get a latermodel tranny, the EA81 tranny will be stressed with a EJ22 or EJ25. I am looking into an EJ25 in my 'preza, obviously you will need the ECU and harness, which makes a JY pull the best option, also the EJ25 came in the 2.5RS, the forester XT, and all legacy OBs. Edit: I believe the 2.5 also came in the legacy GT.