Gnuman

And I'm in Richmond (East Bay), at a shop that has several older engines They are OBD I though), and I'm thier Subaru expert. I could look (and listen to) it and perhaps give you an idea what is needed if anything. PM me for a phone number, to set up a meet.

That only exposes the actual button (A micro-switch) underneath to whatever would have hit the plastic button top. OK, my best shot missed the mark, as I was thinking that if you disable the alarm system, you disable everything. I guess not. . . Only thing left is the low-tech colution, of leaving the fob behind. . .

OK, that is the relay that I was hoping that it was not. . . that is the one that has a probe in the fins of the evaporator, and it looks like I will be replacing that one soon. that fast clicking is exactly what I'm hearing. . . I have a replacement for it but this is also used. Should I get a new one to replace it, or can I trust a used one (is there any way to test it?)

Check your owner's manual. I think there is a procedure in there for disabling this feature. Or perhaps I'm confusing this with something else. . .

OK, I did the R134 conversion the other day (then the weather turned cold again, figures). What I did: swapepd out the compressor (old one was siezed due to oil starvation) cleaned it with brake part cleaner, then filled with Ester Oil. flushed out condensor, evaporator and all lines similarly, with brake parts cleaner followed by compressed air to remove any residue. replaced all O rings, and installed new reciever/dryer, then buttoned everything up. I used a hand vacccum pump connected to the hose from an empty can of R134 to pull as much air out as I could. charged with R134 and started the A/C to be sure it was fully filled (took two 12oz cans) I got good cold air from the vents, and the low side line was cold to the touch so I thought I was good to go. First hot day after, I started hearing some relay going whacko in the area of the evaporator (there are two there). and the compressor was cycling on and off rapidly, making for minimum cooling (Low side line cool, but not cold to touch). This morning I bles off what I assumed was left over air trapped in the reciever/dryer, and resealed. the relay only went whacko once today, and the A/C kept the car cool except for that one time (when the relay was going off). I have good pressure to the low side of the system (fully charged), and when the relay is not "going off" the system cools the car just fine. It also seems to be more likely to "go off" when in "Max A/C" instead of regular A/C. My question: which relay would this likely be? the one facing the cabin area, or the one on top of the evaporator with a temp probe in the fins? is there a way to "fool" the system into thinking that all is well, so it leaves the system running (when turned on)? I'm off on a two or three month trip through some pretty hot areas and will need the A/C working for the trip. . .

In many places all cars are checked, particularly in heavily populated places. I'd suspect the O2 sensor as the ECU should have trimmed that down pretty quickly. does the cat overheat when you are driving the car? You can also check the ECU coolant temp sensor (under the intake manifold, on the passenger side. there are two sensors. the one with two wires is for the ECU, the other one is for the dash guage. Guess which one is harder to get at. . . ) You may also be getting "blow-by" of oil in the combustion area (worst case scenerio)

It will work.

I can get you any and all of the parts to that assy. PM me for a phone #

Since you have an auto tranny, why don't you just take it from the one in the tranny (VSS1)?

We got an extended warranty when we bought a 93 minivan years back. . . right front steering knuckle failed, causing an accident. the warranty people said the accident was the cause of the failure. . . cost us tuice as much to get it fixed (differences in deductable) and they had fought with us on every other issue to arrise in the car. Just before the warranty expired, the tranny went out, so we took it to a shop to see how much it would be. Shop fought for us, and we got a new tranny out of the deal. That paid for the cost of the warranty, but was also the only good thing that happened from it. Now I just buy cars I can work on myself:Subarus.

It says right in there that it is a CD. . . the scans are in PDF format, which is easier as it can be used on any operating system, or even downloaded to your PDA if you want. . . This is the kind of system that I would buy if I had cars of those years to work on. . .

The OBD II scanner should work on the 95. Subaru went to OBD II in 95 instead of the mandated 96. YOu may want to check out the knock sensor, and the MAF. Have you put a can of SeaFoam through it yet? Also check the fuel filter. Other than that, i can't think of anything without more info. . .

I use a brake spoon ( the tool that adjusts back brakes) and press the piston back into the caliper by levering against the inside of the inboard pad (be careful not to scar the rotor). The bolts are 12mm, IIRC.

I have seen 2 and 3 bolts holding the rocker covers on, but never 5. in bot the 2 bolt and 3 bolt applications, they are 10mm bolts. Everything else you said is spot on though.

Could that have something to do with most if not all of the major roads also being major trucking trunkways? <G>

I will never own a WRX. I hate to see potential wasted, so I figure that if I got behind the wheel of a WRX, I would be in jail withing the hour. . . I'll stick with my beloved Legacies. That is a car you cannot write a manual for. Just as soon as you say that something cannot be done with that car, someone goes and does it. . . Often me. . .

That is odd. Every belt I have gotten had the same numbers as the Haynes manual, which IIRC are the same ones you quoted. Turning by hand should not cause any problems as I don't think you generate enough force to cause damage to the engine by hand (this is why turning by hand is done as a matter of fact). If you can go two revs (on the cams) without hearing any kind of bad sounds, I would say you are OK. Each rev ov the engine equals a rev of the engine, so if you can go around twice, you will know there are no surprises in store for you.

From memory, the manual has the correct numbers (but I cannot find my Haynes, and the Chiltons does not have the tooth count (point for Haynes)). If it seems impossable that the belt would fit with those numbers, I can only ask "did you remember to compress the tensioner fully and lock it in place (with a small allen wrench or a drill bit) before putting the new belt on?" I have also never seen that tooth count on a marked belt. Check your counts.

For some things, that is the best option. windscreen glass is one of the big ones there. a sunroof, exaust, and alignment are others that I can think of right away. . .

That is a great thread.. . .if he was looking for wiring info (I found it useful, but my needs are not his) He was looking for something along the lines of (this info for a 90-94 Legacy) "there are two screws at the front of the rails that hold the ashtray, and two in the recess where the cupholder resides (ashtray and cupholder need to be removed). From there there are six screws (three on each side, two of which are easily seen, and one recessed one between them) that need to be removed, and then you can pull the radio unit out easily for replacement, or whatnot." I do not have similar information for the RS, or I would give it. I can however, venture to guess that there are a few screws to remove that will make this operation a lot easier. Sorry that I could not be of more help, and thanks SVXdc for the valuable wiring info.

Heh, Emily was given to me when her owner (my stepdaughter, who bought it from a friend of the family that was the original owner) had the clutch start to fail, and since she does not do her own repairs. . . Well, I took just one look under the hood and I was in love with the car (See my sig for details). First time I crawled under the car I fell in love all over again. . . then I drove it (after adjusting the clutch) and it was all over for me and any other make of car. This car has served me dependably from day one, and it is not like I baby this car or anything like that. Heck I often do stupid stuff like towing a car that weighs more than me up and down hills, pushing/pulling just about any kind of car to a safe place off the freeway, hauling transmissions/engines in the back, Trying to break traction on the tires (that didn't work, exactly. It took off like a scalded cat instead), and stuff I don't even want to mention here. . . This car is designed to be repairable, and it is. Easily. And it has respectable power to boot? what more could a person ask for?

Also have them check the air filter, fuel filter, O2 sensor, and any codes that come up on the scan tool. 19MPG is way low for this model year, and your tranny shifting so often is not a good sign. . .

More details please? Fluid color OK? Smell (burnt)? any flashing lights on the dash? any that stay on?

This is a thread hijack. Jamie, is there a rear deflector for the 90-94 Legacy Wagons like the ones that are available for the 00 and up models? I'm looking for the deflector profile, not the spoiler. Thanks.

the speed sensor is the electronic part, which seems to have failed. The speedometer is the mechanical gauge that is driven by the speedo cable. The speed sensor is part of this assy.This will cause the cruise control to stop working as the CC requires this input to tell how fast the car is going. I can probably get you one (well, a used instrument cluster). PM me if interested.