turboguzzi

euro 2000c.c. 2nd gen leg , 5spd MT, cruise at 70-75 most of the time, get pretty constant 30mpg. just like i was getting in my 1gen EJ20 for the last 7 years.... unless something is telling the ECU to run leaner than it should (not that healthy long term) cant see how to get 35 running at 90mph. not that we dont believe you of course, just tell us your secret TG

guess its not your case, but if its any help for others... in my gen 1 legacy, what i thought initially to be a stripped gear turned out to be the short flex cable not engaging. the small rubber washer under the threaded plastic plug had swollen and pushed the tongue out of engagement. the short cable was very difficult to turn too and needed tons of spray grease, WD40 , etc to get free again. simply mounted it all back lubed and without the rubberized washer and it worked fine again. TG PS - this sure reminds me that i better lube that short cable in my new gen 2 ASAP as preventive maintenance!

thanks for the inputs again now the big question..... am not really interested in having delayed/timed door auto locking in the first place !!!! and my gen 1 didnt have it either no kids or other such dangers, so is there any way to simply bypass the thing? will try to dig deeper into the schematics but maybe someone has already managed to. Cheers TG

OK, found some threads but the odd thing is some say timer is on the passenger side, some on the driver side fsm shows it in the driver side for a 97 at least....

thanks gary had this in my sights too, but somehow it seemed to me it was a mechanical issue with the switch looking at the fsm, the timer is surely easier to reach, so might tackle that first! TG

ok, another item in the list of "to do " in my new leg.... electric car locks "behavior" has been a bit strange from day one, most of the time only the driver's door would lock-unlock, sometimes the rest of the doors too... car doesnt have the original door lock remote system but has an alarm system with its own remote. yesterday finally switched the aftermarket alarm off and the problem persists even without using the remote, i.e., just using the key the other doors and trunk locks open/close intermittently. before tearing into the drivers door, is there any chance that its only the rod that moves the switch that is not regulated/needs adjustment or better to simply buy a door switch unit and change it? your feedback / experience will be appreciated. TG

did it twice with simple ally spacers i turned on a lathe, a big, make that, HUGE threaded bar, and a plumbing tube as puller spacer. nice to know that i have now all i need in case i have to do this again. That said, not a job for the meek..... and yes, the long bolt can be a bastard! TG

more like: no problems till you need to change a CV.....

tnxs!

thanks guys will try from another connection still pretty amazing that there are no other options to opposedforces, what did people do before them? for my motorcycle parts i can count on at least half a dozen sites that have free access to full parts catalogs, some go back to 70's stuff cant understand why the auto industry is so different... Tg

nope, still not working for me.... any other free microfiche sites? thanks! TG

tnxs are you able to see the part number for part number 15? for some reason it wont show the parts list here. they might have restricted the site for outside the US? odd TG

http://opposedforces.com used to be a really good place for pats number finding but it will now show only engine parts for just a few some models any idea what happened there? or links to other free subaru microfiche sites? tnxs TG

trying to locate the pedal's rubbers (brake and clutch) part numbers for my 95 MT legacy but cant understand under what category did subaru hide them the opposed forces online catalog isnt working too well either.... any ideas?

should be quite easy, too lines on cam, one line on crank pulley, just looks like this mechanic didnt even open the manual.... he must have used the little trianlge on the front of the pulley instead of the line at the back of the pulley as he added a bit of white to it and the cams where somehow aligned at that point. that said, never understood what the little triangle was meant to signal.... feel like calling the PO and tell him not to give any work to this guy ever!

lift the car and check for a loose wheel bearing maybe? its the rears that usually go, but who knows

long weekend here, so had time to take care of the usual subby stuff after putting on the car 1500 miles light leak form the oil pump, so off come the parts, used the starter trick to open the pulley bolt, worked a treat even if a a bit scary... well, what do you know.... the mechanic that put the new belt for the PO 20K miles ago had the left cam off by one tooth, guess he totally missed the original mark on the crank pulley because there where all sorts of green and white marker lines al over the pulleys. funny thing is that car was running pretty good other than a slightly lumpy idle. now its simply smoother lets see what it does to the mpg's which werent bad as it was. new pump o-ring went in, new crank seal too as it was bone dry, that part is set. put in there also new cam cover rubber seals as same mechanic simply cut half of the old ones as they must have swelled from the constant oil leak from the steering pump reservoir. now its all dry and tidy and rear diff and G'box got new oil too next in the to do list is the left front CV. might attack it today even.. TG

hi rver if you can post a picture of where the valve is in your car, it could help tnxs

mine is an HLA, so luckily I dont have to adjust the valves will ask what are the possibilities regarding the valve installation tnxs TG

not yet, waiting for racing season to be over so i can give the installer the car for the full week he needs. it is going to be done by autoklaus.com near Lecco who is very experienced with these installations. it is going to be a http://www.romanoautogas.it system. will update after its done....

fully loaded for a vintage racing weekend.... now you know why a legacy SW is my only choice 1983 Kawasaki GPZ750 in the back, two bikes for me and girlfriend to get around the paddock, that should do TG

compimenti jarl! troppo bravo... rverdoold, most installations i see here have the valve inside the little fuel door will check though, thanks for the advice!

Legacy? have 15"'s, nice sporty handling now but loss of ground clearance which i do miss.

the valve thing is interesting... and a bit scary too, but my EJ20 motor has self adjusting valves, so not an issue, hopefully. I do half your mileage (have quite a few motorcycles to ride too ), so it will take me 2 years indeed to get my money back my 1st gen didnt have lpg, but i know how the installation looks like. I will just go to this dealership i really trust and have it done by them. will ask him about the valves issue though tnxs TG

just checked... in the US its called "propane/liquefied petroleum gas (LPG)"