beezer

Maybe chat to Subie Gal, see if she can help.

Going to be replacing the side diff. seals once they come in. Doesn't look like a terrible job, except for those damn rusty bolts. Looked through my manual but I couldn't find the torque numbers for the side gear retainer (5 bolts). If any one can get those numbers, or point me in the right direction to find them, it would be greatly appreciated. Any ideas how big they are (the seals), or what size socket I need to take them out and put them in? Thanks! Beezer

Just remember they only get torqued to 3-4 ft/lbs. Don't overtighten them to try and stop the leak.

Hopefully someone who has a forester will chime in too, but no it isn't terribly difficult. I have a legacy. You will need new cover gaskets, the small ones for the bolts and spark plug seals I think. I think there is only 3 (?) bolts holding each one on. The hardest part is getting them out, you will probably have to take the battery and stuff like out. I know with my car one came through the top and one came out under the car. $400 does seem a little steep.

Do you think you have those codes ...... or do you have those codes? If you don't know for sure, go to a parts store and have them read the codes. My guesss, probably the coolant temp. sensor. Oh! What year, model is your car?

I would check the axle seals. If the diff. has a coating of oil and dirt on the sides and onto the axles that's probably what it is. Pretty sure you can change the seals with the diff. still on the car. (I know you can on a '92, GRRRR). Just have to remove the axles and change the seal out.

Probably not good advice, but I know what it is like to have only 1 car. I would drive it, as little as I could though. Keep an eye on the temp. and your coolant levels. It is very,very possible that the waterpump could completely fail soon and without much notice. Then that would probably mean a tow to the dealership. Like many other people have said, heat can kill an engine. Hope you make it!

Crystal clear on the oil cooler. I've seen oil coolers before, but they had their own little rad type thing. Did you put the cooler on mostly because of the turbo? Very nice engine, that should be more fun! Any ideas on the mystery part? My guess, it looks like one of the dead end tubes on some newer intakes (not sure what there purpose is). Why it would be hanging around an ej22t I don't know. Are you selling the plans for your engine stand? (If it works who cares huh) Thanks again

Check the codes, go to Legacy777 website. Have you changed the air filter, PCV valve, fuel filter? Check the knock sensor for cracks, could be screwing with the timing. Oh yeah, recheck everything you have done so far, ie. is the O2 sensor hooked up correctly? Is it funtioning?

First, thanks Legacy777, you have a turbo? Thought it was a N/A. Don't know much about oil coolers, do they just screw in, bolt onto where the oil filter goes?

Are they turned off? The little switch on the steeering column.

Went to change the rotors on the front of my car, yeah they gave me the wrong size rotors. Didn't think of it until I reassembled everything, should have measured what size rotors are on the front. Does any one know off hand what size the stock rotors are on these cars? Don't want to walk out of the store with the wrong size rotors again. I noticed on another thread that Legacy777 put an oil cooler on his car. What benefits are there to doing this? What kind of a job is it? Is it worth it? When I changed my trans fluid (5 spd manual) I measured out 3.5L or whatever the owners manual said was the capacity was, and poured it in. It measures about 3/4 of an inch above the full mark. I can see some fluid still being trapped in the trans but, not that much. I'd drain some out, but I didn't want to until I got a couple of opinions. On the air control valve is there supposed to be 2 gaskets betweeen it and the TB? I only have one metal gasket. I'm sure I remember reading somewhere that there is 2. This just came to me now, I haven't had it off in months. Thanks!

Since you said there was 0 resistance measured at the coil pack that could mean it is bad. Since there is no voltage going to the coil pack that could mean your igniter, crankshaft sensor, wiring or ECM are bad. You can check for bad grounds, sorry I don't know where they all are. I'm not sure how to test the igniter. Check the resistance in the crankshaft sensor. If you can rule everything else out then it is probably the ECM. Maybe find a scrap yard, pick up a few parts and swap then out and see if it helps. I dunno, kind of spent now, good luck anyways.

Waterpump is located there.That sucks!

If you connect a 12v source to one of the connections and one of the other connections to a ground the relay should click. (not sure which connections you have to use though.) Test the various connections, the two that have continuity are the 2 you want to play with. I'll bet the relay is toast and that is why you aren't getting any voltage to the coil pack. Try it and see. Not sure how much relays cost, probably more than they should.

Suppose it could be the rad cap, that would explain why there wasn't any movement from the expansion tank. Could explain the coolant loss too. Change the rad cap and see I might keep my open for any leaks though. Good luck.

I would test the crankshaft sensor. It is located behind the crank pulley (the large pulley below the alternator) Check the resistance through the sensor.

no power for these tests. yes that is the coil pack. The igniter is located on the firewall.

Thank you!

My car should be fine, I think I'm far enough away from the action. The Paris I live in, is a small town in Ontario, Canada. Good one though!

In the next couple weeks I will be changing the timing belt and the seals. The seals are starting to leak a little. My question or questions are what bolts need locktite or anti-seize on them? I think the ones on the oil pump backing plate need locktite, what kind should be used. This weekend is axles and front brakes, I hope it goes smoothly! Thanks!

If you have a multi meter you could start testing things. I would start with the battery, check the voltage and the connections. You can test the coil pack if you want. Disconnect the connector and measure the resistance between one of the outside connections and the middle one, repeat for the other side. Sorry don't know off hand what the resistance values should be. Then you can measure the resistance between the coils on the coil pack. Again don't know the resistance values. Come back with some numbers and someone can verify the resistance values. I might check check the resistance in the crank and cam sensors. I know there is a test for the igniter, but, I don't know what it is though. I might also the check the timing of the car. Take the covers off and take a good look at the belt, maybe it slipped a tooth or 2. That's my 2 cents, good luck!

There is a difference, the 1st and 2nd gear ratios are different (slightly lower on the turbo model) Don't know if this is an issue on whether they are compatible or not though. My vote is on yes they are interchangeable.............maybe. Probably have to wait for Legacy777 to chirp in. Forgot to add the final gear reduction for the turbo is 3.900

I would take a look at all the front end stuff, ball joints, tie rod ends and axles. See if there is any evidence of the boots on the axles being torn or leaking. Also look to see if the boots on the ball joints and tie rod ends are intact. I'm pretty sure you can purchase the top plate thingy seperately.

Urban Coyote: This is a very long story, but, I'll try to summerize. It ('92 legacy) would idle high and erratically at about 1100 rpm, but, it would have little spurts where it would idle at 2000-2400 rpm for a couple seconds, (usually when I pushed the clutch in). The CEL would come on, it would be the air control valve and fuel purge solenoid. I tested both repeatedly, they were always ok. Cleaned them both, no difference. Thought it might be a intake manifold leak or something, couldn't verify that either. Found a cracked knock sensor and a faulty spark plug wire twice in my searching. These fixes seemed to cure it for a couple hours to a few days, but it would always return. Don't know what happened but after a 5 hour tour at 130 kph it was cured. Guess it blew some crap out of the engine or something. Going to run some seafoam through the upper engine sometime soon.