beezer

It can be adjusted, it alters the idle. It may adjusts other things too, I'm not sure. I played with it a little while, and the car does work. It is good advice just to put it back where you found it. I'm sure it was positioned there for a reason. If it is twisted counter clockwise the idle goes down and the idle goes up turning it clockwise if I recall correctly. Forgot to add, I'm pretty sure it controls how much the shutter oscillating thingy inside opens. This is why it is a good reason to take the connector off when cleaning. I found a lot of gunk was at the point where the shutter stopped, I think this is where a lot of the sticking occurs. By taking the connector off you can get all this gunk off.

You said it sounded like it was running on 3 cylinders, maybe pull the wires to see. It could be running on 2 plus a little from the other 2 if the coil pack is acting up. Check that stupid knock sensor for cracks too, and maybe the coolant temp. sensor.

Sorry, I realized later that I probably should have better explained myself. My particular problem was intermittent, for some reason I assumed yours was too. Other than the idle problem does the car behave normally? Will the car ever idle properly or is the CEL always on? Like others have said, first try and rule out, or pin point the problem is the IAC. I would hazard to guess if your car will behave properly on occassion that the IAC isn't the sole problem. If the CEL is always on and the car always idles poorly then the IAC is probably part of the problem. The only point that makes me wonder is that the idle changed so differently when you replaced the PCV. Oh well, clean the IAC and see where you are.

I have a 1st gen. legacy 2.2, and I don't know how much has changed on the engines over the years. I had a similiar problem where the car would act much like yours does. I would get the code for the air control valve. What I would check, is the spark plugs, are they seated properly, what is their condition like. Make sure the wires are OK. When the engine is acting funny start pulling the wires 1 at a time to see if it affects the car at all. Also check the knock sensor, mine was cracked and was sending miss information to the computer, it didn't show up as a fault code though. I think it sounds like more of a electrical problem, either spark related or a faulty sensor. Hopefully this might help, I scratched my head for a couple months with my car.

Are the CEL and the AT light still on? If they are I would certainly get that checked out. You could go to a parts store and get them to pull the codes for you, and someone here could probably help you figure out what is wrong. The exhaust, I certainly wouldn't go to the dealership to get this work done. I would get other quotes for sure. Can't really say if the car is safe to drive around or not. Does your car still drive normally? Probably wouldn't postpone this too long the problems might magnify. Sorry couldn't help more.

Yes it is broken. The bigger outside one, it broke off at the bottom. The small part is still in there.

I think if it is constantly flashing every second you have to disconnect the black connectors underneath the dash that are used to retrieve the codes. It simply means "all clear". Check out Legacy777 website if you don't already know about retrieval of codes etc.

Not to familliar with autos, but, maybe you could try adjusting the bands on the tranny. I'm sure there is a thread somewhere to help you do this.

Sorry, got you very confused. I found the dangling spring (centering spring) and hooked it back up. Then I found when I was under the car that the spring pin was broken. Two different things, sorry should have been more clear. The centering spring is good now. I was asking about the spring pin as a different question.

Found out what I was trying to describe, it is the spring pin. Still not sure how you go about getting it out. Might just wait and try to replace the whole shifter linkage later. Could this spring pin cause problems in the near future?

I found where it went (spring). I can see it in some of your other pictures, it seems to hold the joint to the part that goes into the trans. Feels like a srew head on top but I think the nut rusted off maybe. I think this has been worked on before, because there is nuts and bolts through the linkage not the pins. Any ideas how to get this out? What size is that small nut and bolt?

One more question. Just pass the "U" joint connection on the shifter linkage towards the trans. I noticed there is a small hole on the underside (the section that goes into the trans.). I couldn't tell if it was threaded or not, but it seemed like something was supposed to be there. Yes/no? If you need a better explanation just say, and will try again.

Thanks! Not sure if I'm seeing properly, does it go up to the linkage? Sorry, little hamster fell asleep at the wheel again.... I see it now.

I was thinking of changing the shifter linkage bushings sometime in the future. I went out and took a look underneath the car to see what I was up against. (didn't like what I saw) Anyways I found a small spring (maybe 2" long) just dangling there. It was connected to, I guess it is a vibration damper. Now I'm sure it hooks up to the shifter linkage somewhere, not quite sure where though. The question is what does it do, and where does it go?Thanks Stupid me! Pretty sure it is one of the centering springs.

Kind of like what Legacy777 said about the exhaust, maybe check around the headers at the CAT. I had a hole there (turned into major crack) I wouldn't say it was a whistle, but I certainly only noticed it when there was a load on the engine. Maybe start the car when it is cold and crawl under there and feel for any leaks.

I took a little peek at my 92 Legacy, don't know if there is a different set up for your car or not. The window is driven by a small motor connected to a half circle gear. The window is lifted by an "X" shaped lever system attached to the bottom bar that holds the window (might hafe to see it to understand) It is possible that some water got in there and corroded 1 of the pivot points. Some penetrating oil might fix this. Probably hafe to take the panel off the inside of the door and take a look. Should only be held on by a few screws (1 or 2 might be slightly hidden) and some push tabs. Sorry slightly redundent, the above post came in as I was typing I guess.

Definately go and get the tires balanced, doesn't cost too much. I think it is harder to feel a tire that is out of balance on the back, until you move it to the front, I had a similiar problem. Maybe get a 4 wheel alignment too. Not sure on how much torque, probably 50-70, it will probably say in your owners manual. The powersteering fluid, it might say in your owners manual too. You can do it by yourself, it does take a little while though. Someone can explain if you need to know how to do this.

Not familliar with the 95's, but I think they might have 2 cats. My exhaust cracked along a weld at the cat, and I was able to get someone to weld it back together, cost me $20. Might be something to look into.

Knock sensor was at the heart of all the problems, I think things just started to snowball over the time it took to figure this out. If you enjoy the game "operation", then installing a knock sensor would be quite fun.........not a big fan of that game. Oh yeah found a 4" gash in one of my tires too.... so I have 4 new ones now. So much for new struts. Thanks for everybodies input.

Have then check the knock sensor, maybe it is cracked and it is screwing around with the timing. Plugs and wires and that sort of stuff should be looked at to.

I would take a trip over to legacycentral forum, there has been talk of this over there about putting turbos on the NA engines. I guess it can be done with low boost. From what I have read it is probably easier and safer to drop EJ22T into the car. The turbo has a different block(closed deck?) and has oil squirters where the NA has an open or semi open deck. There are other differences too, but I don't really know what they are. Oh well, good luck.

I'm not sure if I read his thread properly. I'm pretty sure he asked for help on what to do and how to do it, not on whether you approve of it. Sorry I'm no help, but good luck!

not sure if it is different for your car or not, but just disconnect the baterry for an hour or so.

Think it just means it is a manual, the auto's have a 90-10 split under normal conditions I think.

Went looking for other problems again, noticed the knock sensor is cracked on top. Could this cause any of these problems?