DoughtCom

Hey I got it in, the key was in good enough shape that I just needed to put the new pulley on.... I'll hook you up somehow don't worry, I'm strapped for cash now (as always) but I always pay my debts. It seems to run pretty good now... now just to sell it . Now all I have to do is keep my job!! (I hate the technology market). I'll start posting here again soon, just been working on a site for my work on all my spare time. Learning C# as I go. Peace!

yeah... being a 97 legacy owner that's put in about... oh 9,000 dollars in repairs while it sits in my garage broken AGAIN (this is within 2 1/2 years). I can really feel for this guy. As far as the older Subarus, I believe they're much more reliable then the 95-99. I speak with experience of 3 people I know with, 98 Impreza RS 2.5, 99 Impreza RS 2.5, and 95 Legacy L. All three of these people have had pretty major problems with their cars. Personally I'm pissed at subaru about their EJ25 DOHC head gasget problem, and if I had known it was an EJ22 bored out to 2.5 Liters I would have saw it coming. I'm just mad that they didn't recall it, at least that I know of. For instance my last problem on my car was my tranny... the freakin' gear axel inside the housing broke in half due to the fact that gears weren't set right (according to my very reliable mechanic) and my personal trouble shooting up until that point. You could put it in drive and then reverse and feel it catch after a second, like there was movement then it catching on something. Basically the gears weren't close enough together so they would move then hit against each other.... if that makes any sense. That cost me 1800 dollars just last February. I've had the head gasket blow (the previouse year), and have changed 5 wheel bearings replaced (yes one wheel twice). Not to mention the lower control arm which was sort of my fault (I hit a curb side ways doing about 5-10 MPH). I say sort of because honestly I dont think it should have sent my wheel up into my fender at that speed. I've also had multiple sensors go out. What I'm getting to is being a 97 Legacy owner I'm almost ready to set it on fire in my parking lot. But on another note I couldn't be happier with my 150 dollar purchase of the GL-10. Not that I'm saying 150 dollars is all I would spend on a Subaru, I'm thinking about buying a WRX (since Subaru seems to have their act together). But not without the 100,000 mile warranty . It just sounds like those years Subaru had some weird problems. That just my person experience.

Well.... I took off the harmonic balancer to find that the F#@$ing bolt wasn't even on tight!!! I just used my damn hands to undo the bolt. Now that I have it out and on my desk I can see where part of it (like the key wasn't all the way in) has been dug away (lack of a better term). So hopefully I can just replace that and make sure the damn thing is on tight this time. I couldn't see the gear yet, the sun went down and I have no light in my apartment garage (yet). So I'll have to look at that tomorrow . Morgan, sorry I haven't been able to call you lately, life has been crappy (I did infact get dry socket on my right side). If that does fit my car, I would gladly pay you 45 for it, that's much I found it for online. Not sure if it will be the same size and whatnot though. Anyone else know? Anyway hopefully I can just replace this and all will be good. I'm selling it shortly after and relying on my GL-10 this winter, tired of this damn car.

So this could have messed up my timing? or the timing gear... that's what I was afraid of . I'm going to start ripping it apart tomorrow, so hopefully I'll see what the damage is.

Well... I won't go through the history of this damn car, but I'll just state the current problem, since that's the one I need to fix My crank pully is screwed. The one that runs the serpentine belt. It whobbles, which I've gone through this before due to bastard mechanics not doing their job correctly. Not using "lock tight", so said the past mechanic which obviously didn't follow his own advice . Anyway the key that holds it in place, I'm assuming because that was the last problem, has worn a bigger notch so now it has a lot of free play. I don't really know what the inside (the timing belt area) looks like since I've never taken it apart. But does this mean the main crank gear for the timing belt could be messed up too? Since I think the key goes into that as well, meaning that possibly the notch could be messed up on that too. If so this leads me to the next question..... how hard is it to change the timing belt on a DOHC EJ25 with an auto tensioner (which I believe I have?) I'm assuming it's not easy. But at this point I'm not throwing ANY more money into this bastard of a car.... and my haynes manual makes it seem doable by a person like me. Anyway.... any suggestions on fixing it would be awesome. Thanks in advance guys.

It took me a while to figure out a what you guys meant by MMO a long time ago, where do you get Marvel Mystery Oil? <- Don't mean to hijack the thread.

I'm getting a manual tranny soon, is there something somewhere that this is all documented? Also do I need the kit if I'm just putting a 2WD tranny in a 2WD car? I just figured I needed the flywheel (which I'm looking into using an XT because I heard they're lighter?), clutch and pressure plate, oh and the clutch petal box or whatever it's called. I have no idea how hard it is to do a conversion, seems like it could be pretty hard, but a lot of people seem like they do it on here. Sorry if this is a repost!

Looks awesome, nice site too btw. I have plans for my logo, won't be a pretty paint job, but I've started putting LED's behind all of the stars. So people across an intersection, or probably the people beating me in a race , can see the stars light up. The rest will be black.

I obviously don't have much experience with these cars, but since I've gotten my GL-10 and actually been out driving it. I've noticed people trying to pass me thinking I'm going to be a slow driver. I usually kick it down a gear, and they back off . I'll see how she holds up to the typical ricer hondas around here sooner or later.

Hey dude.... ironically I'm heading there RIGHT now.... I was just checking the board before going over there! Give him a call if you want. I'll be there in 30 minutes. I have to leave at 2PM so I should be there for a bit. Peace

ok, my main question/concern is.... once you start seeing the metal shavings at all, lets just say it started happening. Is the engine already toast?

That is extremely weird, it looks like a site that's trying to make it look like they have forums for every type of car. Which the way they chose to populate their boards is a silly way to do it. Maybe shawnw should e-mail them?

I know MorganM has a relay setup for his DC Radiator fan installed. With a low amperage switch used. That would a be a good way to do it as well. I personally, with my limited experience, don't see why a switch wouldn't be a good way. If you have a switch that handles 20 amps, that should be adequate enough to power the fan.

Well now that I've had more time to determine it's problems.. I'm now aware of the trouble I'm in. 1.) (Valve Clicking) When I start my car.... it clicks for maybe 2 clicks then it sounds like the oil pressure rises then it goes away. Well after driving it for 15 minutes or so, long enough for it to get as hot as it's going to get. The engine starts to feel rough and the valve clicking gets REALLY loud. I mean REALLY loud. Especially at idle. 2.) (Overheating?) I believed this could be the cause of the engine running rough, since I didn't have a working temp gauge. Well I bought a 3rd party one, and replaced the dash sensor. It stays at about 190-205. Which is normal. After I stop my car after driving it for 15 minutes. I SWEAR I hear water boiling. I'm fairly confident I don't have any air bubbles and there's water bubbling out into the reservoir, I've topped it off over the past 2 days. 3.) (The worse... Metal Shavings) I changed the oil to 20w50 as people suggested the other day, and when I drained the oil.... to my surprise.... I saw what looked like shiny dust. I'm assuming this is metal shavings. POSSIBLY caused by the oil pressure (Problem #1) or Oil Temperature and the oil running thin. NOW with saying all of this... is it too late to even think about fixing this thing? WHERE should I start? Preferably cheap since this thing could be screwed. ANY suggestions would be highly appreciated, since I'm sad about this car possibly being screwed up.

Yeah I've seen some people do it on VW forums before. Not sure what all is needed as far as modifying the chassis if at all. You could always build one of these! heHE!

Also if anyone could reply as to what size the temp sensor is, that would be cool. I believe the one I bought has an M16 adapter.

Got another question, does the temp sensor that has a wire coming out of it, control the 2nd fan?? I never hear this come on and or see it come on and common sense tells me that's what would control it. So I'm wondering if this could cause the engine to overheat. I haven't had much time to work on it yet, I bought a temp gauge for it for 19 dollars at Checkers Autoparts but haven't put it in. I also felt the return hose (the top one) and it has hot water inside it so I know the thermistat is probably working. If the DC Fan not spinning is the cause could I hook it up to one of the higher amp fuses and solve the problem right there? On another note I changed the oil to 20w50 and the valve clicking went away I still want to do the maintenance on it though. And also when I drive it for 10 minutes or so (the rough) feeling I stated in my first post is associated with VERY loud valve ticking which I'm assuming is caused by overheating. When I turn it off it sounds like water is boiling inside the engine!?!?

Wondering if you have a custom x-over pipe if so I might be interested. Peace and glad you're ok!

I e-mailed you Skip!

Thanks for all the info guys, now I know how which directions to take, and knowing is half the battle As far as the oil pump, I might as well change it and all the seals, something that should be done anyway. My friend just had a DSM he had bought, had it for 3 days and then the oil pump basically blew up and sent it's misc parts into the engine and killed it. So now I have a phobia of older high mileage cars. I'll probably change that, put in 20w50, change the plugs, the coolant and then hopefully it'll run decent again. As far as the temp sensor, I'll e-mail you morgan and let you know about working on it, that sounds like a great route to take.

No prob about the post, and thanks for the reply. well damn, so I have to take apart the whole dash to fix it? how about getting a cheap analog guage? I was planning on doing this anyway. But I don't know where I would incorporate that into the cooling system.

Thanks for the reply, I'm not sure if the site is malfunctioning or what, but my sig should have my car make and year. At any rate it's a 1986 GL-10 Turbo Sedan. And yeah it does have a digidash. As far as the fuel cutoff protection, I had read about a tube I should disconnect, just thought it was for boost over 10PSI or so. Didn't want to disconnect it, incase something was wrong and it that was the only thing keeping my engine from blowing up, hehe.

Well I finally got my exhaust manifold fixed (took us a while to weld 2 of them to make one good one). I also had trouble getting the top flange past the engine but that’s beside the point. With all of that done on to the next stage of problems. 1.) The valve clicking is pretty bad, and it comes and goes. Not sure if it’s the oil pump, since It’s leaking oil a bit onto the exhaust manifold from where I think the pump is. Anyone know how easy it is to take it out and replace? 2.) The temp sensor is out, so I’m kind of driving it in the dark not literally speaking of course. On top of this it might be overheating. After a while of driving (I’ve only driven it back to my apt and couple of other short distance test drives) the valve clicking gets louder (I think), starts running a little rougher, and when I got home the water was up to the top in the reservoir and bubbling. Now with being said, that could be because the guy that sold it to me only put water in and no antifreeze and it’s just boiling? Not sure… At any rate I NEED to fix that before driving it again, do you guys know where the sensor is located? I’m assuming it’s the sensor on top of the water pump, it was corroded and I got all that off and it still doesn’t read so I don’t know. I’ve seen it work ONCE since I’ve bought it. 3.) The third and final problem, at the moment. Is what I believe feels like fuel cut. Before applying my boost controller, at about 2100-2300 RPMs the engine feels like it just isn’t getting fuel for a while and you kind of have to sit on it for a second then it finally picks up. This does NOT occur all the time, but often enough to be a problem AFTER applying the boost controller, which I was only running 9-10 PSI, it would hit 10 PSI and then it would just shake forward and loose power. I’m assuming no one else has had this problem, since people were suggesting 9-10PSI as a good range before applying an Intercooler. Could it be a bad fuel pump? So as a summary for this car... it's WAY faster then what I expected. It has no power until the boost kicks in then it takes off like a rocket, comparatively speaking. I think it'll be a fun car once I get all the problems worked out and modded to the level of what you guys have. I just want to get it running for the winter, then next summer I'll finish up the project. For 150 dollars it was well worth it. If any of you guys have any of the parts I need for sale, let me know. The list is... Oil Pump Temp Sensor Gas Pump? Thanks again for all you guys help, may the soob keep running.

Ahhh man wanted to meet all of you guys, but this is far from something I could see myself doing . Plus my lowered Legacy and Broken GL wouldn't make good vehicles for this contest Kick some.... butt though!

Yeah, I saw a pic of a Canadian Legacy Police car a while back, ever since then I've been waiting to see one in MN. I just can't see why they would do a hot pursuit in their Fords in the winter. That and ditch diving with a Legacy is probably a lot more easy and safe. I always thought it was due to acceleration issues or something (compared to the "raw American power") but in this month’s issue of Sport Compact Car... I learned that they're slower than hell comparatively. For those of you that haven't seen it, you should check it out.... it's pretty hilarious. Yeah about the "STI Legacy" that's coming to America... been waiting for one of those for years. The RSK B4 was an amazing machine. It's too bad the rumors I heard weren't true (which I wasn't counting on) about the Turbo Legacy STi having a Twin/Single turbo H6. That would have made my day Instead it has a twin turbo EJ20 making 276 Horsies. But at any rate I don't have 30k+ anyway, heh. Here's a link to the JDM Legacy Page