hklaine

When I click on "Justy" I see a pic of something different, a GEO?

From what I hear Ski Instructors who are members of their professional organization (don't know the name) get a similar deal. -Heikki

I suppose that all depends on what you are looking to get. If they fit your car, and you like the style you can pick up a set of stock 16" WRX wheels for a good price on ebay or a forum like NASIOC marketplace. They are 5x100mm with 55mm offset. I have a set on my '96 Legacy as they were the best priced decent looking 16" wheel I found. Nothing flashy but allow you to go with a lower profile tire for better handling (my reason for the upgrade) at a great price. They frequently sell for ~$150/set. I wouldn't pay much for the tires (if the wheels are equipped with the stock potenzas - JUNK) if you can find a bare set at a lower price. If you are looking for a true aftermarket wheel then I don't have much info. Hope this helps. -Heikki

I did my clutch today and found that I need to replace tranny mounts. Anyone know if the STi mounts will fit my car? (details in subject). I have found posts claiming that the engine mounts should fit, but that the trans mounts should not fit. Anyone know for sure? Thanks. -Heikki

Would you happen to have the receipt with a part number handy? Wondering if it is the same as the 2.5L. I am assuming yours was replaced with the metal separator? Thanks. -Heikki

I am preparing to do my first clutch job, and have been reading up on others' experiences. I have seen quite a few of you mention the "oil separator plate" and the replacement of plastic with metal versions. However, all the discussions I have seen tend to be based around the 2.5L engine. Does my 2.2 also have this separator? If so were they also shipped with the plastic version that should be swapped out? I would like to round up all the parts ahead of time, as this needs to be a one-day job so for $15 I'll pick one up if I might need it. Anyone had experience? So far my list includes the following: rear seal bearings (pilot/throwout) disc pressure plate exhaust manifold gaskets Anything else? Do the rear cam seals need to be done? If so I am assuming this would be the time to do them? BTW car has 110k. Thanks. -Heikki

RF, LR, LF, RR

Awesome. Thanks for the info. I'll add this to the agenda for my next oil change. -Heikki

So I changed just about all the leaking gaskets/seals (and some that weren't leaking) in my Legacy. The only one that still needs to be done is the oil pan gasket. The Chilton's manual suggests taking the exhaust off the manifold and loosening the engine mounts slightly before lifting the engine. Where should I lift the engine from? Easy job? Also, it seems that there is some oil on the tops of the heads in the area of the intake manifold. Is this residual leakage from the valve cover gaskets or would/could oil be leaking from the intake manifold where it mounts to the head? Thanks. -Heikki

I will take (4) of the USMB logo decal. Please post when/where we should send payment once the time comes. White would be great, but that may change should other colors become available. (yellow ) Thanks. -Heikki

I don't think that these OEM head units have an aux. input. If you are not looking to replace the head unit you can get a roady or similar unit with an FM modulator or tape adapter. The FM modulator would be the best for minimizing the wire mess. Neither of these, however, would have the sound quality of a unit wired in through an aux. jack or a dedicated satellite-ready head unit. I bought a Kenwood head unit since my car came with the OEM tape deck upon purchase and I really needed a CD player. It is Sirius-ready and plays MP3's. The head unit was about $180 and with a promotion they had (and I believe still have) a satellite tuner came free with the purchase of the head unit and antenna. I figured why not? The antenna was $50 and I figured if I didn't like it all I had to lose was a month's service fee and I could sell the tuner and antenna on eBay to regain the $50, keeping the head unit. Essentially a risk-free trial. I think I've used the CD player a dozen times in the past 8 months since I got satellite. I don't know if there are any comparable deals with XM. I also have an external unit, similar to a roady, that I listen to at work. I have thought about using it in the car as well (since each tuner has a monthly fee) but I don't think I could stand the clutter. The integrated head unit makes controls easier, stands out less, and leaves me more room in my console. Just my $.02 ramble... -Heikki

Glad to hear that you guys are in agreement. I used teh Ultra-Gray to reseal the pump but figured I would ask as this paper gasket was news to me. -Heikki

So I finally got the timing belt and front seals replacement underway today, and when I opened the package for the crank seal (non-Subaru) I found a paper gasket was also included. It just happened to be the exact size for my oil pump. The oil pump that I removed from the car did not have a gasket, just some sealant. All the manuals and forum discussions I have read have called for sealing the pump to the block with OEM sealant or Ultra-Gray #599 (and thus I purchased the latter). I have not seen any mention of a paper gasket anywhere. What's the deal with this paper gasket? Something that they used to use? Fel-Pro's suggestion for sealing the pump to the block? I also found that three of the screws inside the pump were loose and partially backed out. I have seen mention of inspecting these, but is it very common that they are actually loose? I put some loc-tite on them and tightened them down. -Heikki

Those seem like some long intervals. I also do 3k conventional oil/filter changes, 4k on the Ford wihch runs synthetic oil. I can see some synthetic oils lasting the long intervals, but if I was doing that I would still change the filters more often. They are inexpensive enough. I don't know if I trust leaving a piece of paper in there that long protecting my engine. Then again I am a strong believer in preventative maintenance. -Heikki

I found NGK plugs at Advance Auto, but ordered the NGK wires from ngk.com. No B&M stores in my area carried or could get the NGK wires. I must say, they are NICE wires for ~$40. -Heikki

My '96 2.2 gets ~22 mpg on average, thats a mix of highway and backcountry. I haven't taken it on any trips where I would burn a full tank on the highway but even with conservative driving the gas mileage isn't great. I think you will find (or to some extent have found) that others will concur. -Heikki

Feels like something is blocking it? Does the key go in at all? If the key does not go in I would think there might be something with the lock. I don't have keyless in my Subaru but have never heard of a car with keyless that does not accept a key. If the key goes in and does not turn, then perhaps it is a poorly cut or worn key. You can get a new one from the dealer with your key code (often found on dealer sticker in owner manual) which may or may not work better. Is the key original or a copy? Regular keys are cut to a DA25 blank while valet keys (which probably won't open the hatch or glove box - did you try the key there?) are cut to something different (SR6 ?). I have a '96 wagon and it did come with a valet key. Never used it. -Heikki

The body style should be the same '95-'99. As far as the CD player, when I pulled the stock radio/cassette deck from my car I noticed that there was one connector that was in use that connected it to the car. The radio/deck also had a round connector that was not in use. I would guess that the CD player (w/ appropriate cable) would plug into this other port. So I would think that as long as you get the CD player and cable (assuming your deck has the round port) you should have no problem. (?) -Heikki

I think they are a dealer option, and I have seen them from some Subarus (mainly newer models) in the aftermarket. I have, however, also heard complaints about them. You can imagine it would be difficult to make a ventshade for a frameless door... (assuming the doors are still frameless ?) -Heikki

If its like mine you will need to squeeze the clips along the top of the grill (needle nose pliers work well), pull the top of the grill forward a bit and pull the grill up out of the clips that mount the rear-facing arms. Pops out pretty easily. -Heikki

My '88 was doing this. I can't remember if it was the PCV or EGR replacement that corrected it though... -Heikki

As far as I know the "newer" Subarus have only one horn. I only found one in my '96, while my '88 had two behind the bumper. The stock horn in my '96 sounds more like a buzzer than a horn. Hella makes two (that I know of) supertones kits. I recently installed the 85115 (118dB 300/500hz) kit, which ran about $55 on eBay. It came with the horns as seen below and a relay. You can generally find the 113dB 300/375hz kit for a bit cheaper. I mounted them behind the grill and they are loud to say the least. -Heikki

Had this sitting on my desk: -Heikki

What did you pay for your O2 sensors and where did you get them from? I am doing my 90k next weekend and just today was considering replacing the O2 sensors as maintenance. Necessary? How long does the manual suggest warming up the engine for before attempting removal? As for your sensor, if the metal around the damage is in good shape I would weld (or find somene to weld) the mount back to the exhaust or mount a new one (perhaps in a different location) as NOMAD suggested. But before doing any of that, looking into the exhaust for a problem that might have triggered the error is certainly a good suggestion. Do any manuals have tolerances for the sensors, or electrical tests that can be performed? Wondering if I can do an "inspection" of the sensors to see if replacement is necessary. Thoughts? -Heikki