Huck369
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Posts posted by Huck369
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The only thing is that it is idling at about 1200 rpm when warmed up and in neutral. And when it first starts and is cold it pops up to about 2200 RPM before dropping down somewhat to about 1500. I'm thinking that is just an adjustment of the throttle position set screw?
Keith
Sounds like you might have a leaking vacuum hose somewhere, might check them all for cracks...also make sure all the hoses on the intake tube are hooked up well, and the PCV system.
Check all these before adjusting the TPSS...
And you could always throw a set of duel port EJ18 heads on it to bump the compression up some, and get it back to about the same HP as the old 2.5....but might need to run Preimeum fuel in it...
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Having owned several SVX's, and having done the first 5 speed swap into one, I can say they are great cars, but do have their week points.
Trouble areas are:
Transmisions / front diffs
rear wheel bearings
rotors tend to warp if your a heavy braker.
The tranny / front diff issues can be greatly reduced by installing a 4.44 Legacy tranny and matching diff, plus it make it much better in the take off department (stock they run 3.54 gears)
I like the 5 speed swap myself....but a 4.44 auto makes it a really fun car too.
The window in a window is more of a stlying exercise, but does let you roll the windows down without messing up your dates hair;)
I Love my SVX, but I love my XT6 too.....
The XT6 is better for in town driving, and hte SVX is great on the highway...
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Yeah the 8 bolt bell housing will bolt up to the 4 bolt EJ stuff....
Here is a link to a guy that put a EZ into his Rally Impreza Coupe.
http://www.linaracing.com/impreza-h6-conversion-faq.php
The biggest down side to using a EZ30 for me is the cost, as they bring big money from the wreckers....
I had originally planned on using the EZ30 in FrankenWedge, but went with the EG33 due to the availability and price.
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... STi oil cap?? :-\
:-pLooks like fun.
Looks better than the black plastic one....and 230+ hp in a XT rates STi to me.....plus it scares the Honda owners:grin:
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I put a EG33 into my 1989 XT6...I call it "FrankenWedge"
Puts a smile on my face every time I drive it....
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thats wrong its 87
Actually, 88 here in the US, in the 88 XT6
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In the Us 4.44's were in:
Auto:
Legacy GT 96-04
Legacy Outback
Impreza RS
Manual:
Forester Turbo
Baja Turbo
Legact Turbo 05-up
As best as I have found...
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I usually do the same thing..
I'm sure the switch is to "set" the cruise when you push it down, but the car will slow a couple of miles an hour before it engages, so I alway push it down (to set it) then hold it "up" (Increase Speed) untill it is "cruising" at the speed I want.
Either way, I'm just glad it's now working:headbang:
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Well, just for a follow up, it's working now....
I noticed my horn wasn't working either, pulled the airbag back off, and the cruise/horn connector had come un-done, so I had either not got it seated all the way...(or I forgot to plug it in:banghead: )....
Anyway, it's working again.....
thanks to all who contributed thier ideals....
Huck
Creator of "FrankenWedge"
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Huck, here is another off the wall try.
I think the brake light switch may be the culprit.
Connector B64
Try engaging the cruise with the brake pedal depressed slightly.
I'll try that when I go out to lunch....
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Still haven't figure this out, but all the wiring seems to be fine....
The actuator under the hood, came off a 96-2.2, could that be an issue?
All the other parts came off a 95...
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Use the wiring diagram, and try to check that all the wiring is good, and you don't have something tweaking out somewhere.
I hate wiring, which is why I've been looking at every other possibility first:-\ ...but it's looking like I'm going to have to check the wires....maybe this weekend...
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Another good ideal, but I've checked that.
I might add that this Brighton only has 56k on it, so it has sat a lot, but is in really good shape (will probably be for sale in the spring)....quit as a mouse....sure wish I could get this cruise control working...
I may start swapping parts off my daughter's onto it, as I know hers works, but she is only here part time...
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Huck, this may be a dumb question
as I have been emitting cranial gas passes lately.
Are you sure the brake lights work when the pedal is depressed?
A blonw fuse in the brake light circuit, bad switch ect.
Some older cc units I've used look for this voltage to funtion.
Not a dumb question at all....I honestly haven't checked the taillights, but I can see the third brake light in the back deck light up when I hit the brakes, so that should omit the brake light fuse...
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AVK,
Good point....but not applicable here, since the donars, and the donee are 95's:confused: the module came out of a 95 1.8 manual tranny car, and is going into a 95 1.8 manual tranny car....
The Actuator came out of a 95 2.2 auto Impreza....
I can still swap out the auto actuator with the one out of the manual car, but would require chasing down the owner of the car I put it in a few months ago, who lives about 2 1/2 hours from me...so that is a last resort
And Matt,
I did check the fuse box, it had one in the "Cruise" slot, but I installed one in each of the 3 "empty" slots just to see if that fixed it...it didn't:(
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Thanks Matt, both times I had done it before it had worked for me too....
But not on this one.
I do have both clutch position switches installed....
Everything that is on the PDF file Josh posted i have installed, but it doesn't work.
The actuator under the hood came off a automatic car, but I'm pretty sure that part is the same on a auto and a manual...
I re-checked my clutch/brake switches, and they are adjusted properly...
Was hoping for a simple fix, looks like it'll be a bit more of a pain to figure out...
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Thanks Josh,
I had installed a new in the box kit into our old OBS when we had it, so I was pretty sure I had everything, and also installed used pieces into the Impreza I fixed up for my oldest daughter and it worked fine....
But it doesn't work in this Brighton.:-\
I'll dig into it a little more, and let you know if I find out anything new...
(Thanks for the guide, I'll keep it this time)
Huck
Creator of "FrankenWedge"
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I've been fixing up a 95 Impreza Brighton coupe AWD 5 speed
I have a Impreza "L" parts car and have been installing some of the "L" equipment onto it.
But I'm having trouble with the cruise control.
What I have installed for the cruise control.
1. vacuum diaphram with cable to throttle body and vacuum hose
2. Dash switch
3. Steering Wheel Switch
4. MT Cruise control module
5. Clutch position switch
6. Changed out the brake position switch for the cruise brake position switch.
All the wiring was present in the car, and the dash switch lights up when pressed, but the cruise doesn't work...
What am I forgetting?
Is there a dedicated relay for the cruise control?
If so, where is it located?
Thanks for any help you can give....
Huck
Creator of "FrankenWedge"
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you know Huck i have had 2 95 1.8 AWD 5 speeds and to be honest with you...they both were very tight. I just drove them and over time they seemed to loosen up a little to some extent. One car in particular was very tight when it was cold outside and cold from overnight rests.
Drive it...change the fluid and keep driving it.
Thanks Matt,
That’s probably what I’ll do, and hope it loosens up some with some use.
The tranny is tight, and shifts great, and is a low mileage unit so I hate to replace it.
So... I'll drive it till it frees up, or breaks….if it breaks I’ll replace it then.
Ought to go like a tank in the snow like this..
Thanks for the schooling on the Viscous Coupling, always things to learn…
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since i know you, i know you've already done this but might check/change the trans/gear fluids since you've gotten it. i've heard of people running the manual box with ATF for a bit, but never done it myself. all the wheels/tires are the same size and spin freely when lifted (check the fronts)? do you think maybe the car sat for this extended period because of the binding?
Hey Gary,
The car was sitting due to a light hit in the front, which cracked the radiator, and broke a headlight.
I swapped in a good radiator, and fired it up and drove it home.
I have checked the Dia of the wheels, and even swapped on another set of wheels (a set of WRX rims) but didn't think to check the fronts while it was lifted, but did check the rears, which turn fine...
I plan on changing the gear oil, but would like to get it un-bound first, as I'm sure it'll cause excessive wear untill it's all smoothed out, so fresh lube now will just get ruined....or at least as I see it...
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Huck, this may be a little off-topic, but if you have 'hi performance' plans for this vehicle anyway - check out the center diffs from www.boxer4racing.com .
just fyi
good luck
Carl
Thanks for the link Carl,
But just makeing a "Mock" RS Daily Driver, all stock drivetrain...
It'll look fast:cool: ....and get good milage....I'll save my mods for FrankenWedge, my EG33 powered XT6:grin:
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If you haven't already done so, verify that the tires are properly inflated and the same circumference (within 1/4 inch).
Already done that;)
Okay, although the viscous coupler is a separate sealed unit and doesn't share oil with the trans.It is...?
There is only one place to drain, and one place to fill the manual tranny, so where does the viscous coupler get it's lubrication from?
Got a exploaded view anywhere...?
Thanks for the help
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If it really is torque bind, some forum members have reported alleviating it in manual-trans models (with viscous coupling) by doing a dozen or so figure-8's while in reverse in an empty parking lot or other safe area.
I'll give that a try, as it is, I'm afraid something is going to snap, as it binds pretty badly....I guess it'll either free it up, or break something:grin:
Once I get it cleared up. I plan on changing the gear oil in the tranny...
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Maybe the clutches kind of cold welded from sitting. Maybe what I did could work for you too: my used '96 TB had torque bind for a while even after I changed the ATF to amsoil syn atf. It went away entirely after I went out hill climbing one hot summer day and got the ATF up to about 210 deg. F for a couple times for about 10 minutes. The next day I was surprised to find the TB gone.
It's a Manual transmission, not a auto....no internal clutches....
SVX thought
in Subaru Retrofitting
Posted
Yeah, the biggest plus on the EG33 in my XT6 is INSTANT torque, from idle up...no waiting for boost to build, but throw you back in the seat torque:burnout: ....plus I always like doing things that hadn't been done:grin: