Huck369
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Posts posted by Huck369
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First question. What year 1.8? Does it have EGR or ODB2?
I ask to confim because the only 1.8's I know have no EGR and that a problem if you need the CEL to be out.
as the title says, it's an OBDI EJ18, I think a 95 model...would have to check about the EGR, but could live with the CEL if it'd get it back on the road.
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Like the title says, I was thinking about installing an OBDI EJ18 in place of a OBDII EJ25 any info on this?
I'm doubting it will just "plug and play" but what will it take to get it done.
...and yeah, my internet time is limited, and there are tons of swap threads to sift thru when doing a search, so, if you don't want to answer something that has already been answered, please link me to a relevant thread, and I'd be very thankful.
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Can Any of you with some electronic knowledge tall me if I can "Fool" the TCU on my 95 Impreza 1.8 4-EAT coupe into thinking it's warmed up sooner so the torque converter will lock up sooner, as it won't lock up until I am almost to work, and would like to squeeze every MPG out of it that I can.
I plan to eventually swap it to a 5-Speed, but until then, would like to make the 4EAT do a little better for my commute...
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I didn't notice when i was under there last week...but was looking for something else at the time...
I should have a spare TCU in one of my parts car, but will keep yours in mind, thanks Gary (coming to the Dragon this year?)
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Just a quick question, where is the TCU located in a 95 Impreza?
Before I start tearing the interior out to find it:)
TIA
Huck
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Hello, I am new to the list. It looks like there is a lot of help here for Subaru owners. I have a '97 Legacy Outback, 205K miles, AT,2.5 motor etc. It is my wifes car. It has been well maintained. My problem is that it runs and idels just fine but will die when put into gear (R or D) it auto. please help!!!
Sounds like maybe your torque converter isn't un-locking....
someone more familiar with an automatic will probably chime in soon
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Thanks Guys...
For the replys!
I found both an old Ej18 t-belt, and a Phase II t-belt, and the Phase II is longer... just as an addition to this thread.
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Wondering if I can use the T-belt and t-belt idlers (other than the tensioner and it's pulley, which I know are different) on a later model EJ22 (2001 Model) ?
And what about the water pump?
Thanks for any related info,
Huck
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I ride a Suzuki V-Strom on the street, and a Honda CRF250X on the trails... Also have a Honda VTR250...
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OK, IT's now running..... I had the timing belt on and off about 8 times, trying both the"By the book" and with the Crank 180 out.... It would crank over fine, either way. What seemed to fix it was I pulled out the Crank Position Sensor.....cleaned it off, re-installed it, and then it fired right up....go figure....AS I hadn't even touched the CPS up till that point.... I'm just glad it's back up and running.....and it is timed "By the book"
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I would suggest that the cam and crank marks should be lined up "per the book." In other words, no 180 out.
Then look elsewhere for the non-start problem. Retrace your steps as you removed the old belt. Did you disconnect or unplug anything? Cam and crank sensors properly in place?
Good luck and let us know how it progresses!
I have tried it "by the book" did that first....And yes, I had several things un-hooked (actually I tryed to start it the first time without the MAF hooked up (DOH!) but it still wouldn't stat after I hooked it up. I had the folloswing un-hooked: MAF Cam Pos. Sensor Plug Wires Radiator fans All of which are hooked back up. (except the fans, as I haven't put the radiator back in yet, want to hear it run first) I just Changed the water pump New OEM Thermostat Valve cover gaskets Spark Plugs Timing belt Timing belt pulleys Cleaned everything up before re-installing it....should have been done hours ago......grrr......this has killed my whole saturday......and it's Still not running....
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i assume the crank sprocket does in fact have the key in the key way, sprocket on correctly?
what would happen if the camshafts were put on the wrong heads??
if the crank sprocket is 180 off, the keyway will be straight up, i think?
Thanks for the quick reply... The Crank does have th ekeyway in it, so there is no way to put it on wrong.... And the left cam gear has the tabs on the bak of it for the cam position sensor, so it won't run at all if they a=re on the wrong head (i just pulled them off to make sure they were on the correct side, and they are) And yes, with the crank 180 off, the keyway points straight up.... I took the crank sprocket off and painted the tab on the back that is 180 out from the correct mark, and put the belt on that way...still no start...I'm completely lost on this one.... I've never had this much trouble with an EJ t-Belt before....
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OK....here's the deal...I've done a ton of these....but this one has me confused... I was re-sealing the motor today, and replacing the timing belt water pump....well, I disassembled it and notice the Crank gear was 180 out when I lined up the cam marks (before I removed the old belt....didn't think too much about it) When I put it back on I installed it with all the marks in thier correct place, matched to the marks on the new belt (which ment I had to spin the CRANK 180 degrees to make it line up)...it won't start, but was running fine before I removed the old belt.... So after giving it some thought, there should be NO WAY the CRANK mark can be out 180, as it goes around twice for every rotation of th ecams, so the CAMS can be 180 out form the crank, but EVERY time the Cam marks are up, the Crank mark should be up too.....so how was this motor running with the CRANK mark 180 off....I'm really stumped on this one... (And yes, I know you use the mark on the pick-up tooth on the back of the crank sprocket ) I guess I'm going to have to try installing it with the Crank Sprocket 180 off, but there is no mart to line it up to that way, so it will be a "close Guess"....anyone got anything better....
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It won't even take gas on the first notch....at any station.....
I'll look into the canister thing soon...anyone got a diagram showing what lines go where on it?
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Thanks, I'll check out the charcoal canister first....and I did just add a hitch, but it did it before I installed the hitch too....
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Have you tried different angles etc. with the nozzle? I know sometimes with certain pumps on mine I have to actually hold the nozzle out a little bit and then it flows fine. Or either that your breather hose is plugged?
I have tried, pulling it out some, and different angles...when you stand there for 10 minutes filling it in below freezing weather, you tend to try anything to make it faster:grin: ...but thanks for the reply
huck, i plugged around on line (i would only do that for you!) and came up with this:clean out the charcoal canister lines. if they have debris in them, it can cause this.
might even need to replace the charcoal canister (no big deal).
check any additional lines or solenoid (purge solenoid maybe) associated with these lines - they could be clogged.
seems like this charcoal canister line stuff being clogged is the most likely culprit.
check the fuel filler neck and fuel breather hose.
i didn't find this, but i'd also check for damage underneath, like to the tank.
I'll check the charcoal canister....sucks that it's in the back instead of the engine compartment....but at least the hoses will be shorter...
I'll reply with results when I get around to checking it (hopefully before I need gas again:eek:)
Huck
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Howdy,
I've got a problem with the 2000 OBS I picked up a few months ago, and after a search couldn't find anything on it..
The issue is it won't take fuel.....well, it will BARELY take fuel, it will kick off the auto-shut off on a gas nozzle, even on the lowest setting....
So I have to hold the trigger the whole time, at just a slight trickle...takes about 10 minutes to fill it up...
So anybody ever have this issue, and if so, how did you remedy it?
I've messed with a lot of Subarus, but never run into this before...
Any help would be appreciated.
Huck
Creator of FrankenWedge
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i know someone that may be interested in the transmission should you want to sell it, he's in KY.
oh and you should sell the transmission for about $50. just kidding, i'm a bit biased (see statement above!).
But only if it's a Manual tranny...preferably with 4.11's
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Very cool....
I've been wanting to do this for years....
cudoo's to you:headbang:
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Yeah...I don't get over here too often...
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Thanks Guys,
The valve covers are dry as a bone...but I have new ones, as I plan to adjust the valves too...
It looks to be leaking a little around the oil pump area...could be the oil pan too though....and maybe the front seal...
So I'll probably replace them all.
Can you do the oil pan with the motor in the car?
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Looking at resealing my EA81 in my Brat.....it's my first EA81 motor, so I was looking for a list of the typical leaks in a EA81
Info
1984 Brat
EA81 4-Speed D/R 99k on it.
Thanks in advance.
Huck
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You might want to replace the plugs as well, as the 3 on the pass side may be gas fouled from the time it was run when the timing was off...
OBDI EJ18 in place of a OBDII EJ25
in Subaru Retrofitting
Posted
Should have clarifed in the original post, the vehicle is a 99 Forester with the SOHC 2.5, and I have 3 EJ18's laying around...
Numbchux I may try that, sounds pretty straight forward.
Got one more thing to try to get the 2.5 usable, but if that fails, I'll probably be giving the EJ18 a shot.