matt167

you could get away with a universal downstream for the rear. I would recomend against it tho. The upstream you need an OEM type sensor. IIRC OEM is Denso, and I would stick with Denso. You can get an aftermarket Denso, or one from the dealer. It is VERY important since the upstream adjusts the air/fuel ratio and the ECU is programmed to adjust from a set of ranges. If those ranges are off, it could run bad or throw a code

Some reason I didn't think the early Legacies had them.. I could gut the radiator cap and do it that way, but the JDM coolant tank has the ports going off to the pass side, not straight back or to the left like USDM OEM or aftermarkets, so hooking up the line to the overflow port would have to go around the radiator neck. It would be a dead giveaway that something ' isn't right' in my case... Plus I check coolant every time I check oil so my luck, I'd pull wrong cap and make work for myself

I didn't think the 22T engine used the coolant reservoirs I figured out. The turbo rads mount the same. They sit taller and use a different clamp on top. But I could also use a GD wrx rad since they fit the same

I think the biggest difference in the later Turbo's was the addition of the coolant reservoire, and deletion of the radiator cap.. I'm not thinking about the size of the radiator and cooling. Simply the turbo radiator has no radiator cap. It has a port on it that runs to the coolant reservoire, so that the reservoire is the 'top' of the cooling system If I use the stock radiator, I need to gut the rad cap so that it has no BPV and run the line that normally goes to the overflow tank, to the coolant reservoire. The other hose from the coolant reservoire goes to the overflow.. It's kind of a goofy incorrect way of doing it, but I know it works and been done.

I never gave any thought to the Turbo cars having no radiator cap since they have the turbo coolant reservoire which has the pressure cap in it.. So I'll need to either make my stock radiator work or I need to buy the right radiator.. The direct fit radiator ( Subaru 45111FC300 )that I can get overseas is $400+ ship, but I can buy a decent replacement for a 2004-2005 XT for $120-180.. Will the newer generation radiator swap into my older car? I know the fans might not fit on, but I can get fans that will from the junkyard cheaply enough

Not anything Subaru since they are all the same. I mean, you could buy a Cheap Outback and source a wrecked/ totaled Baja and make it happen. You would need the bed interior sheet metal and the rear cab wall would make it nice.. Subaru is probably still making the stuff as replacements, but you will need a Vin because they won't sell you that stuff knowing your putting it on a different car... I looked into doing the exact same thing before I got the Forester and it just wasn't practical. I think Audi made the A4 as a Convertible/ Cabriolet as far back as 2004. Seems as though you could add an A4 Sedan roof/ pilars to the front, and make a rear cab wall for an A4 Ute but, I'm not too fond of Audi/W and a 'vert model would be expensive to start, let alone needing a sedan as a parts car

Turning a Forester into a 'ute' type vehicle would be harder than it looks. If you look at the construction of the Baja Vs the LOB wagon, it is double walled in the bed area and everythings tied togther that way. Being Unibody if you just chop off the roof and add a window, it's gonna get floppy, and since Subaru Never offered a convertible, there are no structure braces that could be added.. The best way to go about it would be a trailer hitch and a 4x8 flat deck trailer. The Forester will tow roughly the same weight that a Ranger can legally carry. I mentioned going for a S/XS mainly for the brakes and the rear having the VLSD rear diff.. Power windows, and A/C are standard equipment unlike a Ford Ranger, which you have to have got the " Power Equipment Group " for the windows, and then I think a comfort group or something like that to get A/C.. Otherwise the XLT was a carpet and chrome package Rangers are swappable just like the Subaru's. 1983-2011 they changed very little, very slowly This is the 1998 2wd I had. I put a 2001-2003 2wd front end on it with a 4x4 bumper and an Edge ( painted, not textured ) valance.. It was a great street cruiser but when it came to winter and it wouldn't get out of the driveway it got sold in the spring. My Rat Rod is even Ranger based ( I still have this. Probably end up Subaru powered )

All Subaru's are unibody, with IRS.. Essentially the Forester is an Impreza that is lifted with a box wagon body.. The Baja essentially is a truck version of the Legacy Outback. As Far as mine. It gets 23-26 MPG depending on ambient temp and where I fuel it up. Little bit more about the Forester. If you get an "L" or "X" model, that is the base model. "L" went from 1998-2002 and after that became the "X". The better models to get would be the "S" ( 1998-2002 ) or XS ( 2003+ ) since that gains things like seat heaters, leather steering wheel, VLSD rear differential and rear disc brakes. The base models only have drum brakes unless specified and they don't have seat heaters without the cold weather pkg. For the right deal, all of that could be swapped in easy as you want it.. There is also an "XT" Forester which is turbocharged. Kind of an inbetween a WRX and an STI as far as drivetrain goes but they are expensive, also a Baja Turbo which will bring a large chunk of change.

I actually used to have a 1992 Ford Ranger. Mine had the 2.9L V6 and M5OD 5spd. I also had 2 other Rangers, both 1998's. One was 4cyl/5spd and the other was 4.0L/5R55E Auto.. For practical reasons, the Rangers are Impractical.. The 4cyls get great MPG, but limited to 2wd after 1997. The 3.0L and 4.0L are both thirsty engines if you want 4x4 and after 2001 the 4.0L went SOHC which has 2 timing chains and the tensioners can get loose causing an issue.. Pretty much your going to have 6'x4' of cargo room and get 18-20 MPG.. I now have a 2001 Forester "S" 5spd. and I don't miss any of the Rangers.. I have had a 1999 Legacy SUS also The Baja is a costly model. It wasn't as popular as Subaru wanted so they axed it. Now there is a large market demand for them driving prices up.. You can jump into many pre 2008 Foresters for under $6k and if your not afraid of miles or possible repairs needed, under $3k can be done, some well under $3k and some just over $1k even

Binghamton NY

Contact dons automotive mall in Binghamton my. He buys insurance wrecks and has otherwise super clean parts. Ships all over too.. Post brothers in Catskill NY probably has one too. That's about 1.5 hours from Agawam. Not sure how much farther you are

Injectors are generally flowed at 80% of their capacity so if you crank up the IDC to 100% you could flow 660cc out of a set of 550's An 850cc would flow 850cc at relativly the same IDC as a 550cc, you would need to adjust the IDC to compensate for the extra fuel in idle and cruise conditions

Subaru's have a failsafe for the cruise. If CEL is on, cruise will not work

It doesen't because it cant. If you look at live data, you will still see it's adding tons of fuel into the short and long fuel trims, but it can't get the mixture where it wants. So it throws PO171 bank 1 lean.. On an N/A car, 99.99% of the time it points to a vac leak somewhere. The other .1 possibility is that your car has a MAF sensor which is not reading correctly

If you watch live data on a scanner, you should be able to determin if your sensor is bad or not. Could also be a vac leak or mechanical issue, or even the rear O2 sensor operating out of range, it can trigger a code for front o2

Dealer told me that the majority of the faliures were manual transmissions.. Once they pass 1qt/ 1,200 miles, They contact Subaru for warranty and it's pretty painless. They will even pay for/ provide a rental and they are now covered to 100k miles

Any auto parts store with a digital handheld battery tester should be able to use that to test alternator output.. The old Carbon pile testers won't because they just test battery output. Otherwise a Free-$10 ( Harbor Freight/ Princess Auto )DVOM can be used. When systems go haywire like that, it is usually low voltage and/ OR A/C voltage in the system due to a burned out rectefier bridge.. Switch the DVOM to A/C 20v and test the output cable and ground to the alt case.. Anything over .5V is out of spec. Anything over 1.5V A/C can severely damage the ECU or other controller boards.

Yes, the turbocharged version is something called a downpipe. It connects to the turbo. Parts stores do not carry them. You need to go dealer, or full aftermarket.

Yup, that was GM type "A" fluid after they changed the name to Dexron. The fluid dates back to 1948 IIRC

Ej20H twin turbo iirc. Was the legacy GTB.i don't think the outback name existed in JDM at that time

Just keep driving it. Make sure you have Subaru coolant conditioner ( Holtz Radweld ) in the antifreeze. Generally they can go years before they get worse and some never do.. The only way your gonna 'need' to replace your gaskets is if you run it out of coolant.. Lets be clear tho. You had an aftermarket warranty, you did not really have a warranty that covered anything, hence why you still had to pay $300 for VC gaskets, which is about right for that job, might even be high

I had a 99 Lego sus with a howling front diff and I put in shockproof heavy. Helped a little but not enough to justify cost

You can use the short block only. If your heads were not oil starved they should be ok. If they were oil starved they are shot

There are JDM EJ20's that will work but they are hard to find now. Your best bet would be a 1995-1998 EJ22E from an Automatic car which will give you the EGR that your car needs. All EJ25D ( what your car came with ) have EGR in the USDM markets. Only Auto EJ22E's do.. The EJ22E willl plug and play into your car and they generally cost about $4-500 for a decent engine. You need the exhaust Y pipe if going 1996-1998 ( single port ) engine. 1995 Y pipe is the same as EJ25D ( dual port )

195/80 is going to be a tough find nowadays. 205/70 should work. 195/75 may be better