matt167

If the bumper is pushed in, then the rear bumper beam is probably pushed in. If you look under the car, you can see the beam and where it mounts. It's designed to do that and they are also replacable/ still available from SOA for not too much money. They rust out so I wouldn't go used in that case

They don't wear out. But if your originals were somehow damaged. The dealer will have them or can order.. Basically no bigger job than a timing belt and cam seals would be to swap them. Same procedure really

EJ20 with EGR generally means it's an EJ203 because the JDM's didn't get EGR when the USA did... So yup, I almost guarentee that he didn't swap those parts. They would cause some signal at the coil but it wouldn't run like that. It gets a LOT of people.

Did he change the cam/ crank gears from the original 2.5? Most of the EJ20's you find are from 2002-2004 ( EJ203 most common ) models and use different parts in that respect.. They work just fine in the older cars EXCEPT the triggers are different and you need to swap parts.. The EJ201 would be the one you would not have had to do that to but they are getting harder to find. Most now list them all togther.

Yes on an outback you can use a 26.5-27" tire without issue. Your 205 55 16 is smaller than what would have come on it originally.. Keep in mind, free tires are not good if they are over 10 years old or show dry rot.

They had to get some $$ back somehow you know.. Valve guides dropping isn't common, but it happens. I would wonder if it actually happened to yours. Those parts are cheap but labor intensive, so high dollar profit for the shop/shops involved... $105 for a donut gasket. that's laughable. It's 2 bolts, and a $20 part. If you break the spring bolts they are not that expensive even from a dealer.. $105 for a radiator hose, yeah really silly there. Consider this, By them 'covering' one HG, they are agreeing to remove and replace engine, so you are getting a several hundred dollar discount. I'm sure they flat rate the time, but I'm not sure how many hrs flat rate it is for your model to R&R the engine. It's probably like 4hrs though.

1995-1998 wagon will be same

More than likely a lack of oil doing that at some point. That Gen 2.5 should have roller type cams, so no need for zinc.

dbl post for some reason?

Yup, and some of those cars don't have seatbelts, dual reservoire master cylinders or other current regulations.. A LOT has changed in 40+ years. Headlight height wasn't even regulated then like it is now..

Hydraulic vs cable

Tires older than 10 years are considered expired, and they can't be sold past 6 years of their DOT date. Tire shops can't do anything with them past 10 years of their DOT date and will accually recomend discarding after the no sale date for safety.. Date of install DOES NOT have any effect on the tire age and shops are allowed 6 years to sell them.. Tires start 'getting old' right after they leave the factory.. You'll see DOT on the tire, and then some letters and numbers which are part of the DOT code, and then the date code which is the week and year.. If you have a 3 digit date code, that means it is older than 2002 IIRC.. The Full DOT code should include the manufacture plant, a code for size and dimensions and then the date. So any tire essentially has a VIN number and can be identified where it came from and what it is. You can contact the manufacture for DOT decoding Even at 6 years IMO, that's pushing it for tire age. You can tell and tires 6 years sitting in a store room, they look pretty shot.

If it was a clutch fork that was NLA and NOS replacements were non existant and good originals hard to come by, then welding might be an option. But for a part that is less than $50 across the parts counter it's not worth it.

Irwin Bolt grip extractors are what I use for this type of problem. I have the complete set, I think its 12 peices. If that fails, a cheapo variaty socket and a stick welder will work great

Like if I pulled to swap in the EJ205 driveline while it's still running fairly good.. Could I sell it say for $5-600?

When my 2001 Forester first started having some trouble w/ a light backfire and routinly blowing a cloud of smoke when cold, I bought my JDM EJ205 swap. I bought complete w/ trans, turbo and intercooler for almost exactly what the local wrecker wanted for a 150k+ mile EJ251.. Since work picking up among other things, I didnt get the chance to swap before cold weather.. I figured the EJ251 was still running good, and the miles keep piling onto it. Currently sitting at 232k with some change. No knocks except cold piston slap, occasional backfire from deceleration and lots of smoke when it's cold/ first start, but once it's clear it just runs great. It has not taken more than 1qt of coolant since I did the timing belt, probably 15k miles ago.. I've been hoping it would just take a dump one day and I would HAVE to make the swap.. But it's just not going to. Trans has a slight issue with 4th grinding on a downshift but it might be just me. It goes in fine, just gives a slight grind noise. It shifts tight and direct otherwise Is there any value to the EJ251/ stock 5spd and diff? I think the smoke is oil entering from the valve seals on shutdown, or a head gasket allowing the same.. I'm sure heads need rebuilt and head gasket swap would be about mandatory on it anyway.. I use one extra quart of oil ontop of a 5qt jug to keep it full within a 3k interval. So approx 1.8qt of oil is 'used'. Other half, does not see the light in a turbo swap when the stock engine could likely last the life of the car... And I know she wants the short block for herself, cause her EJ205 is about pooched ( engines need oil, a concept she can't seem to grasp ). But, NAH. I bought it for me

2002-2003 WRX only. 2004-2005 will work but you may have ghost codes for equipment that is not there or coded differently.

The Dorman system is garbage. It will not read sensors or reset them to the vehicle.. If you want to do it once, just go to a shop that will program Schrader ez sensors. Buy sensors if they don't have them.. I work at a shop so that's how I have experience. Its not a tool I would need at home

Alt light gets power from 2 sources. The alternator and one other. So its grounded when lit. Something tells me the circuit sub used on that is constant, and non functional

Look up Schrader ez sensors. Iirc part number 33500. Will work for your needs. You'll need a tpms scanner that will clone, like a bartech 400. I use them all the time

I have a Carquest Dayco belt in my EJ251. The idlers I used were GMB. I doubt the engine will last a full service interval, and I'll probably swap it with my EJ205 well before it quits

Yeah, it is USDM regulation. 4 forward facing lights are allowed while low beams are lit. On high beam, only 2 forward facing lights are allowed... You can most likely get away with it, many do but you could get a ticket

Iirc they were first used with elmscan

Elm327 is the name of the first Bluetooth obd II adapter. Its been copied a lot in recent years and now has wifi capable versions.

I don't have one yet. Got a vag com cable instead. But what I read is as long as the elm 327 is v1.5 or v1.4 it will work with most apps. Wifi only for ios. There are other adapters now like obd link mx Bluetooth and wifi but the apps are written for elm327