matt167

Actually the oil pan in that car holds just over 5 quarts, and the light comes on at 1qt low. So that's perfectly fine

SOA because of the oil consumption class action lawsuits were forced to extend a warranty out to the shortblock for oil consumption to 100k miles for the effected vehicles. 100k KM would be 60k miles and that's the regular 60/60 powertrain warranty that Subaru uses. So that makes sense but that does not include the extension for oil consumption..

Not to SOA.. 1qt in 1,200 miles is what they consider high oil consumption. Your car has the shortblock/ oil consumption covered to 100k miles anyway.

What engine control system are you running? I know theres a couple that the EJ20G can run including USDM EJ25D ECU if used with fuel enrichment

It will be a mess, but there is an easier way.. Pretty sure the crankshaft/ camshaft actually trigger the same, so that's taken care of.. The Map sensor on an EJ251 that goes into the manifold is a MAP/ IAT combo sensor, so if you change sensors, then you also need an IAT sensor with the same range to keep the ECU happy.. The sensors you pin in, HAVE to match the ranges the ECU needs even if it can function out of range. The easier way is to make manifold adapter runners. There is/ was a company in Europe making them but it would be easy enough with both gasket patterns. The runner below the injector will help atomization also. Also, you will be choking your EJ25. The PI EJ22 heads are horrible flowing heads.. You could do the same with EJ25D heads/ intake and it will bump compression same. You could also boost the EJ25D heads since the castings are the same as EJ20K turbo heads. They just didn't drill the oil and coolant connections

<p>Forester '98-'0? were 4.44 ratio if automatic and 4.11 for 5spd. Impreza's which is the Forester's closest relation ( Lifted Impreza, box wagon body ) were 3.90... This is why they have a little more giddyup. steeper gear, lighter car, little more engine ( 2.5L vs 2.2L ).. The Legacy non outback should be a 4.11 if auto and 3.90 if 5spd but I could be totally wrong on that</p> <p> </p> <p>I have a '01 with 230k miles and it's showing early signs of torque bind but not bad enough to warrant replacement, even though when I replace the engine soon, I'm sticking a new trans in it too just cause it makes sense to guarentee trouble free</p> <p> </p> <p>mismatched tires on a MT is a lot harder on the trans/ diff than the auto's because the auto's use an electronic clutch for transfer, the manuals are 50/50 100% of the time relying on the VLSD for turning and wheel speed changes front- rear</p>

mismatched tires, hard turning and driveline problems = torque bind Time for a new viscous center diff, or a transmission depending on which is cheaper.. All in all, $6-800 in repairs most likely and then a new set of tires. But if it's clean and solid it's most deffinetly worth fixing

If I go the turbo engine route, I'll install it on a turbo crossmember so that I can add the turbo later. But with needing the diff carrier, and the fact it should have 4 new struts. It will probably wait a while, since the electronics/ fuel upgrades to run the turbo will cost at least $1k.. I have to be able to safely operate the car like that for a while Either way I go, I'm getting a 4.44 transmission/ diff. So going from a 4.11, it's a bit lower and will absorb some loss

RHD M/T parts are not hard to find.. JDM Importers probably trash lots of the assemblies since the USA is a LHD country, those parts are pretty worthless.. But your 6cyl is probably scrap metal at this point.

They are the perfect swap for the EJ25D cars. Auto's have EGR and dual port exhaust ( so you need not swap to single port ). '94's never had EGR and '96 was first year of single port.. '95-'96 are otherwise identical

I'm preparing and researching to replace my '01 Foresters engine and trans.. I just discovered that the front differential carrier ( T support ) is cracked and split. Inexpensive but a bit extra work to replace Since the car is still solid but is still worn out 230k miles and other stuff should be replaced before adding hp. I'm debating just replacing with a SOHC 2.0L since they are like $650 VS a USDM 2.5 will run around $1k.. But when you combine a 4.44 trans with a SOHC 2.0L, there really is no discount. Be about $1,100 shipped vs about $600 more than that to get a EJ205/5spd combo which gets everything to turbo except ECU/ aux tuning and crossmember With the EJ205 running 9:1 compression, would the engine be a turd without a turbo? I know the 10:1 SOHC makes 120-155hp depending on who you ask

2 options. Use engine harness that matches the engine, or extend wires as needed and swap plugs for coil pack.

Fans run when the A/C compressor is running on the turbo models IIRC. I know '04 WRX does that.. The N/A cars will use an algorythim to turn fans on if the A/C compressor is running. A/C compressor runs in defrost settings

To keep the stock ECU in my '01 Forester 'happy' when I turbocharge it, I'm going to run a total secondary fuel injection system with 42lb injectors that will only work under boost while the MAP signal is clamped. It will take machining and welding on the manifold but will be worth it. I also want to control ALL of the cars ignition since the Megasquirt can do that and I need to retard timing under boost.. If I leave the original harness unplugged won't it trigger a CEL? I'm thinking I could wire in a resistor pinned correctly to mimmic the internal ignitor/ resistance which I read is about 1 ohm

Get a Bugeye WRX if you want power in that bodystyle.. It's better you buy that now while your still looking than buy a '03 N/A if your looking for power. They are pretty much the same car otherwise.. 2002+ ECU's are adaptive and anything you do will be learned around. You can tune them with Rom Raider but nobody does it anymore because theres nothing there. You can't add a turbo without a full swap since the ECU will figure it out and adjust in the oposite way

It can work, but it's not that simple... Look on Nasioc or RS25 for the Impreza EZ30 swaps. THATS what your up against. You have one harness, and you could pull the dash and pull it out and stick in an EZ30 harness. Your cluster won't hook up so you would have to read pinouts and cut wires and re pin it. That's just the tip of the iceberg.. Most people merge the harnesses at the passanger side interior. You need FSM's with pinouts for both cars, the courage to cut many wires, and a good soldering iron and shrink wrap... Also, you need a 6cyl trans if you have an auto since they are electrically different in function. If you have a 5spd, then you can trick the ECU into thinking it's in neutral all the time and it will work but you will get some crazy idle charecteristics you'll just have to live with

Actually got a spare EJ25D so that's no problem.. Will the EJ25D timing belt work for the EJ205? I have one new in box from when I was gonna put 25D heads on a 22E. and never returned it. It's a Gates belt.

Is the oil/ coolant lines for the turbo by passable? I think I'm going to install the engine ( on a turbo crossmember ) as N/A until I can get things togther as it is gotta be running in a week. Engine, trans and diff swap. I'll just run the EJ251 manifold/ injectors/ air assist system in the meantime. I'm going to modify the 205 manifold with injector bungs welded above the factory injectors in the runners, and control them as secondary injectors with Microsquirt. That way I don't have to mess with the stock ECU and try to fool it and. run larger injectors. The Microsquirt will also run the timing along with knock control, so it should be a fail safe.. It's kind of a 'backwards' way of thinking but tuned correctly and running a voltage clamp on the MAP, there will be no chance of a CEL ( Ny Emissions testing ).. Plug in-without codes generally means pass.

I'm not sure where it is on the Forester. 99.99% of the time they are IN the cool air duct somewhere. Few cars use a speed modual which I think works with a PWM to control fan speed.. but '02 Forester surely has a resistor. Usually close to the blower motor.. I would get the switch too, and if any 'box' connects to the switch, get that too.

Likely the resistor for speed 3 is out.. As for the A/C. that's a soft switch, probably stuck on.

Too bad you can't build a test harness out of a junk car's ECU/ bit of wiring.

Thanks.. I wont be cutting wires on this. To any degree at least. Ik the engine harness needs a little work to hook up to the EJ205. But I gotta have it in DD condition stock to turbo in a week. Or I could pull turbo and run NA till I got time

Yup, the triggers should be the same, I'm hoping, and have verified to be the case by a few people. They have to be since the JDM DOHC turbo engines from 1999-2000 ( V5/V6 ) have no USDM counterpart to swap the parts from, so it's the only chance it will work

You can use any EJ25 shortblock including the EJ25D short block ( not reccomended ).. The pistons might have different volumes so your compression might change a little but for the most part 2000+ blocks can be interchangable If you would like brand new you can get an EJ257 straight from the dealer for about $1,800. You would need to locate high compression pistons ( EJ257 uses shorter rods so N/A pistons won't work or can't be verified for every case ). But that gives you a brand new shortblock.. N/A blocks for the most part are listed as remanufactured thru the dealers so not 'new'. Beyond that, get a price quote from CCR

I'm gonna be installing a V5/6 JDM EJ205 turbo into my 2001 Forester and will need to install a Greddy Emanage to tune the ECU to run it. Boomslang makes a PnP harness listed for the Impreza RS of the same year, but nothing else. I looked up ECU numbers and they are different but I'd be fairly certin that the pinouts are the same and it's an ECU tune difference. but I can't verify. Anyone have pinouts?