matt167

Extended warranties like that are hook, line and sinker ripoff's. Except normally they are offered by shady used car dealers for an extra $20 per month on your payment, they usually equate to between $800-1k totaled cost, and exclude almost everything in the fine print.. Think about it, they will do $3,300 in engine repairs EXCEPT a head gasket. This means that they will not cover an engine replacement ( easily cost $3,300 installed ) because the cylinder heads are not included. Then they make everything contingent on maintenance. Do you do your own maintenance?.. Likely everything is excluded in that warranty if you read the fine print.

At the $500 trade in value, I would have told them to have a nice day and walked out.. I recently did some work on a '99 GT that clunked on decel. In that cars case, it was likely transmission mounts as the shifter moved around accordingly.. My advice would be to take the car back and make them fix it. The problem is you bought a car with 137k miles from a shady dealer. They know that over 100k miles you can't make the lemon law stick, and it's pretty evident they needed it off the lot and found the first sucker to sign papers with so much wrong, ( no offense ) so they did not loose money on it.

I'll have to find out. Drawtite/ Hidden Hitch only lists one hitch for them and it includes SUS. Part # 36234.. I'll probably have to check with Etrailer and see if there is any complications. They seem to know quite a bit about their products

I have always used Dupli Color high temp 1,200* for that.

I recently looked up the tow rating for my 1999 SUS and was supprised to find it is 2k lbs. I was thinking I needed to use my truck to tow my little 16' runabout, but my truck is an extended cab long bed 4x4 and rated to 6k lbs so it's a bit overkill for my 1,190lb boat/trailer/outboard package... I found Class II Hitches made by Curt, Draw Tite and Hidden Hitch. Which one is best? By looks it's Curt or Hidden hitch to me, but I'm more familiar with Reese and Valley hitches for larger trucks.

Just delivered this car back to dealer.. Ran great and has more power than mine. After driving it I think mine does indeed have timing off a tooth or 2 because it is laggy compared to this 1

The only factory fit hoses I put into my '99 ( '96 EJ22E ) was the coolant crossover hose by the thermostat and the radiator hoses. I made the heater hoses out of 5/8" hose off the roll and it clears just fine. The 2 hoses made from 3/8" fuel line fit on the back of the intake with a small loop. Not a bad deal considering they are hidden by the airbox... BTW, I see your from Binghamton. I was at Garys U pull it the other day and pulled a AM/FM/WB Cassette/CD radio from a 1997 Outback as a spare. I found a better radio that is identical to mine in a red '99 Legacy GT and left that radio in the drivers side rear floor . Fri/Sat/Mon at Garys this weekend has $15 radio's so if your car still has a stock radio, that could be a nice sub $20 upgrade.

There the bolts that hold the rear airbox to the stand off's/ supports. M5 or 6 is probably right.

Well, I've got this almost complete. Intake came from a 1995 EJ22E that happened to be in a 1997 Outback. The car was a rear hit total with 212k miles and roughly no wear. Everything went smooth except for getting all the hoses and everything under the intake back together. I did loose one of the air box hold down bolts. anyone know what thread they are? I don't have a metric gauge only a SAE thread gauge

Just take your car to an Advance Auto or whatever and do it right there. It's kinda common place at those places. Even buy their boots, or oil or something just so you are a 'customer'... I didn't know quick boots were even still available. Thought they went away years ago.

Here in NY a dealer cannot sell a vehicle that will not pass inspection, and he generally does not sell vehicles that he cannot profit on. In a case like this or other special cases, he could allow the purchaser to buy the parts and pay the repairs before the sale is finalized, but the car would end up that much more $$ for that person because the dealer still needs to meet his bottom line... In my case, I could apply my costs and labor to the sale of the vehicle, but I don't think I want the car. I'd have to trade him my '99 SUS to get the car and I plan on using my SUS to tow my boat ( 16' runabout ) as it's rated to tow that weight.. I'd like a 5spd but it does not fit my needs and I can't justify having a car that doesn't do what I need. I know that EGR function/ malfunction is triggered/ checked by the O2 sensors, so if the light goes out, the system is working and the NOX will reduce.. exhaust gas is just used as an inert gas to take the place of an A/F mixture to lower cyl head temps which will lower the NOX..

That's true, I didn't think about that..

It is a 1999 GT 5spd and It has a '95 Dual port EJ22E in it.. Originally I was concerned the car may have been a full phase II EJ22 being a '99 figuring someone had gotten a '99 engine not knowing ( I know it can work with complications ) . But with a good look it is a Phase 1 '95 and looks like a decent job. The wiring harness clamp that clips the 3 connectors to the block is missing, and it was a 'quick and dirty' swap with nothing cleaned and oil residue still in the coolant container, but it's all there except the EGR.. Quite likely someone just got the first '95 they could get knowing it was the most direct swap. I told the dealer, new intake, EGR 'trick' to the IAC hose and it would be good to go. Had to convince him on the EGR trick, but also told him the alt was pulling and drilling the cyl head.. If the CEL clears, and the EGR is working, it does not matter if it is blowby gasses from the IACV or actual exhaust gasses, because the system is working.. I actually wonder if hooking it up to the valve cover breathers would do better.

Well, Dealer dropped this car off yesterday. It uses a '95 EJ22E, '99 wiring harness with the coil connectors swapped ( like I did with mine ) and some of the '95 EVAP system. I got a single cyl 3 missfire and the EGR code.. The EVAP also needs fixed as it's stupidly not hooked to anything and just capped off... I'll put in new plugs and wires and the new intake, and reroute the Evap and it should be good to go.. Has 137k miles on it, but the speedo may not work.

Disconnected the front O2 sensor to run it in open loop.and it still does it.. O2 readings are within spec

I've had codes for 1, 2 3, and 4 but only 4 once or twice.. Coil connector would be the last of my worries. I stripped the wires, soldered them and then used shrink tubing. If anything the solder would act as a heat sink keeping the wires cooler.

I know about the 2 Coolant sensors, but my scanner reads the ECU.. MAF unplugged does the same thing except the AT temp light flashes? and it puts on the CEL didn't make sense I used a 2.2L coil, just swapped the connector to the 25D harness. The 2.2 coil that came with the engine had a rubbed wire and looked bad, which is why I just opted to replace

My scanner shows the temp at 199* when this happens and that is the coolant temp reading with my IR thermometer. I can buy one to be sure, but I don't think that is it.. Coil was new from Standard Motor Products.. I'll clean the MAF and see.. Original 2.5 missed on 2 cylinders when warm and I originally thought it was injesting that much coolant but I think it might be related. That was my thinking with the ignitor

NGK plug wires, and OEM spec NGK plugs

I thought my car was cured with an ECU reset but the warm misfire came back. Now it barely idles, and random misfires all the time once it's warm... Recently put new cam and crank sensors in it just to see and it still does it.. My only thought is the knock sensor is for an EJ25 because I used the EJ25D wiring harness. Otherwise, I'm thinking it could be the ICM/ Ignitor going thermal because it seems like the ignition drops off but the fuel keeps pumping.. Starts doing this when it's up to temp. Cold it runs and drives fine, and it does run ok down the road... Is an ICM worth trying? I have had it on my scanner and everything looks good on live data, just starts missfiring

Will bolt up, but if your thinking 2.5L swap for your '99 L, it won't work because the '99 2.2L is a phase 2 and the wiring is all different

My mom bought a brand new Impreza 2.0L I off the lot with 5 miles on it, still in plastic. It's not a bad car, but it could be better, as it has had a few issues due to the passanger seat sensor for the airbag malfunctioning and shutting the bag off. I know it's been in the shop for it twice and she now says it does it again. Also burns quite a bit of oil, just doesn't have a blue cloud behind it. 0W20 oil will do that though.. I know she gets up to 39 MPG with it, and after driving it a bit, my only complaint was the 5spd gears are a bit too long.. The FB 2.0L uses a timing chain and not a belt also

DOT only rates tires for 5 years as recommended service. I personally do not let a tire get past 5 years before they are dis mounted and discarded. A 50% warranty discount on 5 year old tires is not something you get every day. Jump on that before the offer is up.

Legacy 2.2L was phase II in '99 which I know will work to some degree on a phase I with some extra wiring, but it would never run right due to the EGR, and IAC differences.. It looks phase I to me tho, so a trip to the junkyard to get a complete phase I 2.2L manifold with EGR is no big deal. When I was at the yard last, they had 2 dozen or so '95-'99 Subaru's

Yep that's it. Hopefully the car's not a mess under the hood. I took a quick 30 second look and it looks clean. The rest of the car and the interior is near immaculate.