matt167

also, if it just needs an EGR manifold swap, what is the trick to connecting the EGR to so that it does not need the head drilled? I know I could drill a hole in the Y pipe and add a NPT threadded bung and get it that way with copper pipe, but I read another way that does not involve actual exhaust gas

I was at a local ( small ) Ford dealer today that I do business with from time to time and he happens to have a very nice 1999 2.5 GT. He cannot sell it due to a CEL and is clueless twords Subaru's but knew it had an EGR code and an engine swap but he says it runs and drives fine. Told him I'd take a look at it, and he opened the hood. EGR control solenoid connector is dangling and no EGR valve, 2.2L swap. Now, I forgot to check the full details to see if it was a phase II or not but it looks like a phase I to me ( i've only delt with phase I also ). He knows that I know my stuff and suggested that he would pay me to fix it, so I agreed.. It's also a car that I wouldn't mind having, so there is the possibility that I could end up with it.. I know that if it is a Phase II, I would have to pull the heads and put phase I 2.2 heads/ intake on it, but I don't know if I would want to get that deep into it on his watch.. Does the '99 2.5 GT use an EGR on the 5spds? As to why he does not have his mechanic do the work, he does not have a very good mechanic and I think his mechanic won't touch it as most are intimidated by the Subaru boxer.

Should have the harness tomorrow or saturday by the shipment notification I got. It's arleady made it to the Oak Creek Wi, Sort facility

Ok, I forgot about the donor being a '90, I have an EJ22 harness from a '96. I removed the connector for the coil as I spliced it onto my EJ25 harness but it is complete otherwise. It does not have a connector for the purge solenoid which is why I made my EJ25 harness work on my '99 Legacy SUS, but it should be good enough to make good repairs to your harness if you want it. $10 shipped and it's yours

You will most likely be able to use the 2.2L engine harness entirely.

You can also put a screw in the back of the connector and it works also

Min spec for most engines is generally 10 PSI per 1k RPM up to 4k RPM. So basically 40 PSI at 4k min and 10psi at idle.. The EJ engines spec is right on that edge where if bad things happen, the bearings don't have much time left.

Is your parking light switch flipped on? switch ontop of the column? Had me going for a day tracing things out as I pulled my cluster to do the screw fix. Must have flipped the switch with the cluster.

The rear mains rarely leak so if it isn't leaking, don't touch it.. The Separator plate is likely leaking. You can reseal it with Permatex Ultra Grey or a couple others listed as equivalents to the factory sealant. All material listings are in the Factory service manuals which can be had online easy... No real need to replace the separator with the metal one unless you break the old one, but they are not expensive.. As for the trans, if you use the original trans, just the flexplate is all that is needed from the EJ25.. If you do just the engine, you do not even need to remove the hood. It can be tied up vertical with no damage. Takes about 5 mins to remove the engine once you've got all the bolts out, so even someone holding the hood up won't get frustrated.

Yes, Rockauto's site has some mislabeled parts. I recently ordered a filler neck for my Legacy SUS. Rockauto said it needed 1 part but the manufacture listed another which also agreed with other part suppliers. 1 listed for 2.2L's and the other for 2.5L's. Rockauto had the applications swapped for the P/N's. I just punched in the right part number and ordered it straight out of rockauto without adding any vehicle information

ABS wheel speed sensors are just voltage generators. You most likely can swap the connectors for the correct ones and the system probably won't care.

Pans should swap no issue, tho the EJ25D pan is shaped differently.. I would keep the trans in the car and just swap the engine unless it's going bad. you need to swap the flexplates and you should at least reseal the seperator plate at least.. When I did mine I elected to buy the metal replacement as it's inexpensive, but I also did a lot more than was actually required as preventative maintenance. My advice is when you go to pull the torque converter bolts just remove the intake.. When you put the EJ22 in, you can get a 1/4" ratchet from Harbor Freight that has a pivoting head and that will allow just enough clearance to put the bolts back in with the EJ22 intake in place.

I've had Duracrap brake pads bonding glue fail and pull the lining out and then wreck the rotors well before they were due for changing and they were not cooked either. They may have a 'lifetime' warranty but they won't cover the damages to the rotor... Rockauto at least sells quality brands along with the crap... Summit Racing Equipment also sells regular auto parts also. You can search by vehicle or engine depending on what you need but they do not sell crap, only the top dollar parts usually. If your OK with the crap, just order from JC Whitney. They can beat AA's prices by a lot usually.

You can use whatever you want for suspension, but I think the key to it is getting something AWD or 4wd with independent suspension and use the rear setup. You just need to have the CV axles assembled with ends to fit the transmission splines and the bearing ends on the spline ends in the hubs. I would use an auto level airbag system

Could be the injectors had a hickup as the engine was a junkyard engine.. In any case it seems to run fine now, so that reset fixed it.

Brand new. When I watched it on my computer, ignition timing advanced until it started missfiring and then the timing pulled back so the knock sensor is working properly I think

don't sweat it. The tube normally goes into an overflow tank. In older cars it was just vented and spit out on the ground. What happens is the cooling system builds pressure and the radiator cap opens up and lets coolant out to keep the pressure within range. You may need a new radiator cap if that 1 does not test to spec but it's not a big deal

Take it for a spin in a parking lot and turn tight circles. If you don't feel it bind it is likely good to go.. Also check for repairs at the rear 1/4's. It looks nice. If the A/T Temp light flashes when the engine is started, my advice would be to walk away as that would mean $$$ repairs. The light should come on and then go out

Went for a longer drive and it's still running fine. 4K RPM up the hill with no issue

At 125k miles the timing belt is due if it has not been done but I would guess that it has been ( need to remove to do heads and water pump is new ). The EJ25D it has is an interference engine so if not, plan on the repair or the engine could become a pile of parts quickly.. Price is fair if the car is in nice shape. Most SUS's I have seen have been 30 year anniversary models with the Limited trim so they are well optioned.. Remotes are about $10 off Ebay

I think they are good to 100k miles but, that's only 20k miles off and '97 is interference... Pull the radiator as a unit and the belt will be pretty straight forward. crank it in line the 3 hash marks on the the cam pulleys and the crank sprocket. Then you can remove the old belt, tensioner and the idlers. Do the water pump at the same time. Install the belt with new idlers and you can reuse the tensioner itself, but you should replace the cam... I find leaving the cogged idler off, installing the belt and then installing the cogged idler is best. A trick is to clamp the belt in place on the cam sprockets

Well, I did just that and so far so good. The drive was not that far but I waited for the engine idle to settle where it had set before ( 700 RPM ) and made sure it was in closed loop before I took off. I was able to achieve 4K RPM coming up the hill. No CEL at all.. Hopefully all is well and it was a glitch from giving it gas when it needed to do it's thing

won't need to give much. The rubber part of the line will give what it needs. The connection is about 1/16" or less off from being the same angle. I debated getting that line from the Forrester but after I went back and looked at a '99 Legacy GT's compressor ( seized like my car's is ) I determined that they were a very close match.

What I would do is strip the car of it's subframes. That will give you the engine/ trans that you require along with the front and rear suspension ( would need to cut and gut the Subaru body for the strut towers and fab them into the UltraVan.. You should be able to bolt the front crossmember/ engine and trans in the rear but fabricate it so that it uses the knuckles and suspension from the rear of the Subaru ( don't need or want fork lift turning ). Then use the Subaru front knuckles on the rear Subaru suspension and mount it in the front. You will need a new drive shaft and may need to make some CV axles up but it will work at least in theory.. It's not a theory tho that the transmission will drive the vehicle in 'forward' gears the direction the engine is pointing which would be backwards. So you need to flip the pinions on the differentials to go forward in forward gears.. LOTS of work, but how about an AWD Ultravan? As far as the wiring. Take it all and save it all. Rewire the Ultravan with the entire harness. You can swap lighting connectors as needed but if your planning on 'Roo steering and gauges than the entire harness will work well. You may need to add several feet to some ( most ) wires

I Will do just that. Makes sense and hopefully it is the issue. I think it is ECU related because it runs so good otherwise.. Only other guess is that the timing jumped a tooth, but I think it would have a rough idle then