GeneralDisorder

To answer the question - $0. I would run the fuel injection. It's trivial to hook up and run. Once the harness is stripped it only requires 4 connections for the engine to start. Constant 12v, switched 12v, start signal, and fuel pump power. GD

You can only use another 95 ECU. It's completely distinct and one year only. The behavior of it sounds like potentially a faulty ignition switch. Basically it's not sending power to the ECU when cranking. Only when in the run position. Thus the brief injector pulse while the engine is spinning down as you release the switch back to run. Check all your 12v inputs to the ECU with the ignition switch in both run and start. GD

Tighten till you hear the casting crack - back off 1/4 turn. Consult a chart of torque vs. fastener size. Nothing critical here. 150 lbs on the axle nut - or as tight as you can get it with a 6 foot snipe. GD

It isn't OBD-II. We didn't get those in the states (ours were OBD-II) so I can't help with any diagrams. We went from the 4 plug ECU's to the single plug ECU's from 94 to 95. GD

Just grab a new carb. They are only $200. You'll be way more than that into an SPFI swap. Not to mention weeks of frustration. Trust me I wrote the conversion manual for that setup. Parts just aren't available anymore, and the Weber has better throttle response and low end torque - larger effective throttle bore when you slam open the secondary. GD

My bet is on the ECU being faulty. Open it and check for any moisture. I've seen a number of them die and it's almost always the injector driver's that give out. GD

No. They aren't spaced evenly. GD

Check the bulkhead harness connectors between the manifold and body harness. Not unusual to see corrosion on the pins. Also check the ground points on the manifold, and then look at if you are losing the ground signal from the ECU or the 12v injector supply voltage. Could also be cam/crank sensor signals or a faulty ECU (check inside for moisture or corrosion) But check injector wiring first. GD

Exedy clutch kit - nothing less is acceptable. Resurfacing is fine on the flywheel. You may have quill wear - you can get a trans-quill kit. It uses a Camry throw out bearing. PMD manufacturing. Buy a new fork and pivot ball from the dealer. Dealer ONLY on the clutch cable as well. GD

Doesn't work that way. It needs all it's sensors. It can't just run timing. Timing is dependant on throttle position, load, coolant temp, etc. It's a complete fuel and ignition management computer, you can't just use part of it. GD

Amsoil was first to market with synthetics by several years. Mobil 1 isn't what it used to be. They have watered down the additive package in order to meet API requirements and remain the factory fill in several production applications like the Corvette and Mercedes. Amsoil routinely beats it in analysis results. The EJ257 nitrided crankshaft is only a little over $300. But I would not reccomend anyone to attempt a rebuild without hands on training. It's not straightforward. GD

It's true they aren't cheap. But.... "fast, reliable, or cheap - pick two". I would say the best way to go if budget is a concern is hit up the local junk yards - they usually sell good batteries for $20 or so. Then go on Amazon and get yourself a battery blanket, oil pan heater, and a trickle charger. GD

Sounds like a primary O2 problem. It didn't start till the O2 warmed up and began reporting. The bad MAF probably fouled up the sensor with extremely rich mixture. GD

Get an Odyssey battery and put it in your Baja when you get it back. Give the kid your old one. They use the same battery. Nothing beats an Odyssey. Optima's are junk since they sent production to mexico and Interstate, Costco, etc are all just Johnson Controls garbage that's lucky to last 4 or 5 years. Odyssey design life is 12-15 years, and they handle open circuit storage for up to 2 years without discharge. GD

No one is going to buy parts from a car that can't be operated. 12 years old. Probably get $500 to $1000 for it. I wouldn't give more than $500. Get a reman short block from Subaru and fix it. Worth much more as a runner. GD

Reman short block from Subaru - 3yr/36k warranty for $2150. Reuse your heads with a valve lap, lash set, and resurface. GD

Buy new radiator. Plastic radiators have a useful life of 8-10 years. GD

Baja turbo. GD

Stick with the 4 cylinder. The H6 is extremely expensive to work on once it needs things like timing chain covers resealed and head gaskets replaced. When you get another one, have the head gaskets done with 770's, the oil pump changed to a 10mm, and all the timing replaced with Japanese. And for the love of Subarus - stop using Lucas oil stabilizer. And Mobil 1 is junk. Get some Amsoil Premium Protection 10w40 and the Amsoil filter. GD

Fuel lines or injector o-rings. Seen it many times. GD

Once they hit 200k, a good solid overheat will generally take out the gasket. And eventually they leak anyway. That's been my experience anyway. I've replaced a number up over 200k. Not very many below that. GD

They leak externally. Excellent maintenance with synthetic makes them leak sooner. I have seen BAD leaks from full synthetic excellent maintenance at 75k. I have seen engines with 200k that were sludge up inside and didn't leak. Ran like garbage though. No power and burned oil. GD

EJ22's typically need head gaskets somewhere between 200k and 250k. Excellent maintenance may push that out but I had the best maintained 22 I've ever seen in for head gaskets at 286k. They wear out. Abuse makes them wear out faster. Simply the truth. But it's only a gasket. Not the end of the world nor should it be the end of the machine. I own the one that had them done at 286k now and it has 317k and still runs like new. GD

Rough running at initial cold start and random overheating @ 215k IS a head gasket failure. No other diagnostics need to be performed. Replace head gaskets. GD

You need to perform a pressure test of the cooling system, and check the coolant for dissolved exhaust gasses. If coolant was seen outside of the engine then like as not you have a leak and that's it. If, after fixing the leak (which, BTW, if it is the water pump, should run around $800 for a timing belt/water pump/reseal - done correctly by a Subaru specialist - this is an interference engine and things like cam support o-rings, cam seals, crank seal, idlers, tensioner, etc should all be replaced), it still has issues and no external leaks - you will need to replace the head gaskets. Honestly with that mileage you are best off doing the head gaskets. Doing them the right way will cost about $2000 if you pay to have it done - more if you need radiator, hoses, and a clutch while it's out. It can be done yourself, but sounds like you haven't the will to do so. It would require some investment in tools and help from the forum here but it's certainly not difficult. GD