GeneralDisorder

Actually - true "aficionado's" of the welding arts refer to the *machine* as a welder, and the person running the machine as the "Weldor". Yes - thick is easier. Sheet metal and exhaust are both tricky - one because it's thin and the other because it's thin and usually also pretty dirty . For thin stuff, straight CO2 and .023 wire are a great combination. It's ironic that most people that buy the small, inexpensive 110v MIG's wish to do that kind of work but it's really not well suited to it unless you change the wire and add gas capability. Very frustrating otherwise. GD

Do you have power at the coil +? GD

Believe what you like. I'm not angry at anyone and I sleep just fine at night. My cars are all tuned up and run as well as they need to. I'm a minority - laws are for people that obay laws - IE: the majority. Fortunately for me, I have no such mental obligations. I'm a pretty happy person most days - anger doesn't get stuff done in the garage. And to say my *educated opinion* is an unguided guess completely ignores the fact that so is the original poster's. He has no gas analyzer tests to show that there is a significant problem. Thus neither of our "opinions" are much more than a guess really. But past experience and many tale's of P0420 codes here and elsewhere guides my opinion. You have not added a thing to this post other than to attack me. So what's your excuse? That's just plain silly. NOW who's talking out of their rear? And if people don't want to come here because of *me*..... well I guess that's their loss. I'm pretty sure I've helped more people than I've driven away *and* if I have driven anyone away they probably didn't contribute anything but annoyance and repeat questions. That's my story and I'm sticking to it . GD

You are probably installing them wrong. GD

^ mindless consumer mentality ^. The "man" claims it is so and has put it out on Power-Point. Thus making it true! Someone has to. You gonna do it for us? . 94 posts and he's telling me how it is!...... Tell me "shlit" (was the 'l' an accident?) - how many of these codes have you fixed? And for the reccord I never said the "limit" was too harsh. I said the tollerance for the sensor is too narrow. There is a big difference as pointed out by Gary. I have Subaru's that are 25+ years old with the original cat that pass a tail-pipe examination without trouble. They don't even have O2 sensors. I'm thinking along those lines myself Gary. GD

Order for an '84 Napa part number: CRB 21343A GD

You can't really tell from that picture. I would guess they are since I'm sure Scott isn't building tower blocks that don't have camber correction - which is what a straight block would be. For a 3" lift it's approximately 3/4" inward offset. For 4" it's about 1" inward offset - that's the offset of the bolt holes from the top to the bottom plate. GD

Glad it worked out for you Gary. Now you are a little closer to being a weldor . GD

Fuel, Air, Spark, and Compression. Find which one you are missing. GD

Actually it's a very simple system. Trust me - I've rebuilt Quadrajet's and the Subaru MPFI system is a lot more simple and straightforward than the black-magic that goes on inside a late-70's to late-80's carberetor. And at the end of the day a lot more effecient and controllable. Plus - the ECU is self-diagnostic. It tells you if something is wrong. In this case it's just too sensitive. The point (which you are missing) is that the catalytic converter is still in place, and still doing it's job. The computer is sensitive to small changes and as such the effeciency it see's has tripped it's sensitive alarm. That does NOT mean it isn't still doing a pretty good job of eliminating emissions. You are doing a lot of hand-wringing and sweating about something that we have been trying to make you understand is too sensitive and likely means almost nothing in real-world terms. If you actually put a gas analyizer up the tail-pipe then you would know what you are dealing with here. It's a matter of a few hundred parts per million (PPM) that is tripping the alarm. Without the cat, you would be looking at THOUSANDS more PPM. The difference is gigantic. You have replaced the cat - so you know it's good. You have done all you need to do. Now it's time to let it go and feel good about your efforts. You also don't seem to understand that this is a numbers game and it's about all those people out there that aren't going to know how or understand the non-fouler trick. They are going to bite the huge bill and replace all the components with OEM to get rid of the light. You are very fortunate to be of above-average intelligence and have come here to get the real answers - which we have been paitently giving you despite your tendancy to want to be a mindless consumer. GD

Yep - EJ22 FTW. I would be looking at newer Subaru radiators to find something that fits or can be made to fit. I read on other threads that people are having a hard time getting the dual-core EA82 radiators. People have ordered them and then what they received was not a dual-core. You might try fitting an EA81 radiator as well. They are dual core and will handle an EJ22 easily. I would imagine they would handle the EA82T as well. GD

Yep - that's a standard Impreza EJ18/'95 Legacy/EJ25 header and cat sections. 90 to 94 Legacy used a single peice header/cat and then in '96 the EJ22 Legacy's and Impreza's went to single port heads. EJ25 headers look exactly like that right up till like 2006. GD

Sure - but his old engine would have all that stuff. GD

You do not need to put anything on the EGR valve if you don't want to use it. If you do you can remove the small brass screw on the front of the carb that blocks the EGR vacuum signal port (next to and slightly below the distributor vacuum signal port) and run a vacuum hose from there to the EGR valve. 170/160 is correct - the larger should be on the primary. Larger air bleeds lean out the mixture (more air). If you find you have a slight hessitation from idle to WOT after fully tuning and making sure you have the idle, mixture and timing correct as well as no vacuum leaks - you probably need a larger primary idle jet. GD

You can't - they are not adjustable. You can make a chart for your dash that will show you the reading vs. actual speed. Just use an online tire size/speed calulator. It's a percentage so it's not a specific number of MPH - it depends on how fast you are going. It's farther off the faster you go. The fix is to have a custom speedo cable made with a gear reduction unit spliced into it. This will correct for the size tires you have. Unfortunately you are responsible for knowing this, and you are responsible for the modifications to your vehicle (tire size change) and knowing how to properly operate it after such a change. Sadly you are screwed as far as the ticket goes because there is nothing wrong with your speedo - the problem is the tires that you installed which is not the car's fault. GD

Yeah - EA82's are a lot different. Also the height of the blocks matters as well - there comes a point at which you don't have to bash or cut anymore because you have dropped the strut top so far that it's out of the tower where clearance is no longer an issue. I'm not sure at what point that occur's on the EA81's, but go high enough and it will. GD

Run it till the accumulated crap burns off. You could also run some seafoam through the manifold at the same time - it's an upper cylinder cleaning product. Sounds like the accumulation of water may have rusted up the rings or something. Gary makes a good point about the lifters - they will need time to inflate. Subaru says up to several hours. GD

If you are replaceing the water pump and have already bought one then you should probably take it off as the replacement won't have the nipple for the cooler line. But you could just go get the right water pump for that engine and keep the oil cooler. That's a standard EJ oil cooler style - I have one on my '91 Legacy Sport Sedan - it was eqiupped from the factory. GD

I always just take a small brass punch and hit each of the screws to dislodge them. They usually spin right out after than. GD

Having built my own strut tower blocks with adjustable camber, I can say that Gloyale is pretty much correct. The reason for the bashing requirement is that the inner fender-wall actually extends farther outward at the new location of the strut top than it does at the factory location. And the strut *top* is larger in diameter than the spring itself. The goal is to drop the strut straight down. Thus preserving the camber. Actually - with the adjustable camber blocks I built (4") I had to do very little bashing. Only where that "bump" is located. As I recall, my uprights between my upper and lower plates are cut at 15* to offest the bottom plate inward. I picked an angle that would put the lower plate far enough inward that I would have plenty of camber adjusment. GD

I think I mentioned in your thread that you need to dissasemble the pump and inspect it. That should always include a reseal with new o-rings. Sorry I wasn't clear on that. GD

Also - try a search for ["PCV routing" weber] (without the brackets). The correct way to hook it up has been covered a number of times. GD

The nipple on the intake manifold next to the EGR is the PCV valve. The plastic deal is just a fitting for connecting the hoses - nothing inside them. GD

No - that fitting IS the PCV valve. GD

Doesn't apply. There are no service reminders on older Subaru's. For stored codes, you need to connect the white connectors for the "read memory" feature. GD