GeneralDisorder

I'm glad that works for some people - makes for inexpensive, barely used good for folks like me . Seriously though - I would be up a poop creek if I ran by that rule. I do so many different things that certain tools go unused for years at times. But in the end they make possible a varied and interesting shop that can do almost anything - which is personal satisfaction for me. It's an addiction I'm sure - but I would go nuts if I didn't have something to do, and then something entirely different next week...... such is the curse of the active mind I suppose. Sometimes it takes weeks, months, or years for me to return to a project but it's often because it takes that long to suss out, in my mind, how to do it right. GD

They will probably swap over but it would be a waste of labor to install used syncro's if you have it torn down. The biggest job is tear down and reassembly - the relatively minor cost of the syncro rings would not warrent attempting to reuse a set. GD

If you can't get them out remove the rear cover, drill completely through the center of the plug and use a pipe-nipple extractor on it. Or just drill out the plug enough to run an NPT tap into the remaining portion and install brass plugs. GD

I did a lot of checking and searching and talking to resident experts about the TB problem while fixing a '91 I recently sold. There are ultimately three routes that it can go. With your level of symtpoms it's a very high probability that a simple drain/refill/drain/refill will fix the problem. Here's the three possilibities: 1. Drain/refill/.... typically solves more minor and intermittant TB. 2. Trans-X (or whatever the additive is that folks are using) - solves the majority of the one's that a simple flush does not. 3. Replacement of the clutch pack/duty-c solenoid. Not that hard and used parts are often availible. If you do the work yourself figure around $200 for parts - maybe less depending on if you go with a new solenoid or not. On the '91 I just did - the light was flashing and it would bind intermittantly hard enough to sometimes chirp the tires, etc. 3 gallons of ATF later and this has stopped plus it shifts smoother now. My customer is happy - cost us around $35 for the fluid. If it comes back we'll add the additive and if that doesn't work I'll tear it down and replace the clutch pack - it's not a difficult job and no special tools are required. GD

I'm around most weekends and usually a couple days durring the week as well. I tend to be away Monday's and Tuesday's for sure. I'm leaving pretty soon in fact PM me and we can work out a time. I'm in West Linn. GD

Find a mechanic that can use a MM. Should be a pretty simple fix. Voltage to the bulb, ground at the ECU. And if it's something inside the ECU or you can't otherwise fix it then wire it in so it comes on with the bulb check for the e-brake or something. It's just a bulb check - it's not a deal breaker as far as getting it to pass smog - you can fool those people by simply crossing a wire. GD

I'm not sure if that would work on a daily driver application and I would be worried simply because I would have no good way to test such a system. In theory a small opening at right angles to the flow of the exhaust would work just like a draft tube but the size and shape of the opening will make a big difference in how it operates - without being able to flow-test it you really wouldn't know if it were working correctly. Thus I would probably stick with more conventional methods just because all the math and testing has been done with them. GD

Drain the fluid while hot (as much as will come out with the front on jack-stands), refill. Drive it 10 miles or so. Repeat the procedure. You'll need about 3 gallons of ATF. That will likely clear it up. GD

There is little to no vacuum present at the point where you are so far above the throttle plate that you are on the inside of the air filter housing. With the throttle plate closed (max engine vacuum) you have none at all inside the air filter, and with the plates open you have almost no vacuum anywhere - much less that far away from the cylinder's and above the throttle plates. I don't see how connecting it to the air filter housings can do much of anything helpful for the crankcase ventilation. There just is not enough vacuum signal at that point to effectively operate the system. Plus the oil mist/vapor that it would suck into the filter element and the carb on only that side (assmuing it worked well enough to do so) would be troublesome. Basically you have two tried and true methods that can be used here - a draft tube from one of the valve cover's that sticks down by the oil pan to a low pressure area under the car, or a PCV valve. The problem you have is that your manifold's aren't shared by the carbs and as such if you install a PCV valve or port into one of them you would have to do it to the other as well to maintain the same level of vacuum loss in both. It's only a slight change but with dual carbs it could cause tuning issues. GD

Sounds like a timing issue to me - off-idle torque is going to be related closely to ignition timing and idle mixture/speed and proper progression. As well as adequate air flow and exhaust flow. Looks like you are in the area - stop by and I'll take a look at your setup and give you some tips. GD

The bracket is not the whole reason for those new tensioner failure's - they aren't as good as the older style with respect to leaking and are very finicky about how much load they will take when being compressed for re-installation - almost to the point that no one wants to risk compressing them incorrectly so reccomend replacement as a general rule. It's also important to note that you can swap the bracket BACK to the older style with the seperate piston/idler components and use them instead (which - if you are following along closely here, is EXACTLY the equivelent of what Subaru is telling folks to do with the superceeded bracket "go buy this superceeded bracket as well as the new tensioner/idler combo, etc." I respectfully submit that if I were doing such a thing I would just order a setup for an earlier 2.2 EJ [or - more likely get a used bracket and buy new tensioner/idler] and never have to consider replacment for the further life of the engine - probably saving money in the process). They are simple to compress, very reliable, and typically last the life of the engine and then some. GD

That mileage is pretty low unless the car is lifted? Should be somewhere around 27-30 on a stock height Brat with EA81. But glad you like it! GD

Yep - looks fine though they aren't vacuum lines - they are just crankcase breather lines. GD

The non-beveled side I think provides a more positive alignment between the punch and the pin - especially if you don't have a roll-pin punch with the centering dome on it. GD

He's not around much if at all anymore. Guess his pizza delivery EA82 kicked the bucket or something - don't really know. But I have made plenty of posts on how to install the relay - it's relatively easy. Ask away if you have questions. GD

Yeah - a draft tube would work. The PCV valve is less of an emissions device and more of a way to remove corrosive oil-polluting blow-by gasses from the crank-case for us that don't live in test zones. It's just a conveinent thing that takes care of the problem without the draft tube sticking down and getting in the way. In other words I do it for my oil and my engine - not for the environment. GD

The best approach is to use the RIGHT tool. It's a 6mm roll pin and if it's giving you trouble or you have occasion to come across troubled pins often then you should invest in a proper 6mm ROLL PIN PUNCH. Snap-On makes a special one just for Subaru's with an extra long handle and the dimple to center it on the pin. The key here is hitting the pin SQAURE and hitting it a heavy driving blow. That is accomplished with the proper tool. A sawn-off screwdriver has too much bounce to the handle to overcome the rust - you'll peen over metal around the pin, bend the screwdriver shaft, crack the plastic, draw blood, swear at it, etc. Using the right tool will save you some awful concequences - using various and sundry hardened tool steel bits (such as a quality screwdriver shaft or the back end of a drill bit) can land you in the hospital with fragments of said tool in your eye. They will shatter as they are not made to be wailed on - most especially when the objective is to move parts otherwise frozen with rust. It doesn't matter which side of the hole it's driven in/out of. The bevel is just where they chamfered the hole after it was drilled to clean it up. Neither the hole in the stub nor the two holes in the cup, nor the pin are tapered in any way. It's a spring steel 6mm roll pin. The comments about the hole being 180 out are true - if it's out 180 degree's on the splines it can create a very bad situation. You'll install one the wrong way about one time before you never, ever let that happen again GD

You need to install an anti-deiseling solenoid in that hole - your carb is missing the solenoid! It's electric - there are no vacuum connections but without the solenoid you have a big open sucking wound on the side of the carb that is open to the idle circuit - without that plugged off it won't idle at all. Correct. Correct - Brake booster vacuum supply. Valve cover breather line. Do a search on "PCV* Weber" - that should get you plenty of threads where I've detailed how to handle the PCV routing from both valve covers, the PCV valve, and the air cleaner, etc. You should be able to use those concepts to get a handle on how it works and how to connect it to the stock Hitachi airbox. That is the A/C idle up solenoid. When you turn on the A/C it pulls back on that arm and contacts another peice on the throttle cable wheel. It bumps up the idle speed by 200 to 300 RPM or so in order to compensate for the load from the compressor. You don't seem to have the other parts that make it work with the wheel so you'll have to find them or fab something. Not that hard - I made one work with a Weber a few years ago. Just a manifold vacuum supply. Cap it if you have no specific use for it at this time. The line comming off the two round choke pull-off pots needs a manifold supply. The one that line is connected to would do...... Connect the distributor vacuum supply to that lonely vacuum nipple right on the front, bottom of the carb. Down and to the left of the idle cut solenoid port. Most likely the float bowl vent line. Your older model carb doesn't have a port for this so remove it. And while you are at it remove that whole hard-line assembly and replace the fuel line with a solid rubber hose - it's probably due for replacement anyway. Yeah - trash all that mess. The top one - not sure. Remove the hose and cap the port. If it runs strange uncap it...... trial and error on that one. The lower one I mentioned above - give it a manifold vacuum supply. Vacuum advance is correct - should be on the lowest one. The middle one is for the EGR valve - just run a new peice of vacuum line back to it. The upper one - another mystery. Cap it - pretty sure you won't be needing it. Some of these ports don't exist on later carbs - that's a good example of one right there and mostly I deal with EA81 carbs from 82 and up personally. But I'm fairly certain you can cap that one and forget about it. Yeah - cap it. No clue - metering port of some kind perhaps. That is the distributor advance - now that I'm seeing all your pics I realize that you have two distributor advance hoses because on the carb it was disconnected at the disty and at the disty it was disconnected at the carb..... lose one of them. GD

Holy! Ok I don't have time to answer this right now but I'll get back on here later this evening and do the run-down on your pics. You like to bite-off more than you can chew don't ya? GD

If it's in neutral and not in 4WD you can flat tow it as far as you like. But that's not neccesary - just start the car in 1st gear and power shift it - EA starters will happily overpower first gear and drag the whole car along for the start. If you match the revs it will go right into higher gears without grinding (double clutch it). I've driven many times this way - I once had the throw-out bearing lock up and wear through the pressure plate fingers on my lifted wagon. Drove it 25 miles home like that. It's a pain at stop lights since you have to do a hot restart in 1st but once you get on the freeway it's no big deal since there's no shifting. GD

They just don't come out with enough force for the contacts to close. Usually this is in combination with burned/pitted contacts. The weak amps allowed by the damaged circuit and/or switch can't overcome enough of the solenoid's spring tension to get a solid contact inside the solenoid. A cleaning of the contacts or replaceing of the starter will sometimes remedy the situation for a short time after which it returns and usually just keeps getting worse. Ultimately it's the old wireing in the circuit that's to blame and the addition of a relay typically fixes the problem and it doesn't return. I have replaced EVERY SINGLE compenent of the crank circuit on cars with the exception of the body wireing harness and still had this problem come back. It's a freakin nightmare on some of them - the relay is the only thing that stops it for good. This is not just a problem with EA82's, nor is it terribly uncommon in other brands of cars - I just did the same fix on a Legacy that the dealer replaced the ignition switch and battery leads on less than 10k miles ago. The problem was exactly as described - intermittant solenoid click but no motor engagement. Added a relay and it starts every time - sold the car and the gentleman drives it every day - haven't heard a thing from him other than he loves the car . GD

They will be nice for sure. I've done a lot of work to make them everything I ever wanted in a strut top. The final cut may either be zinc plated or powder coated - I'm not sure on that yet. If I build a large enough number of them I can have a whole batch of them zinc'd at once for about $100. I'm also toying with the idea of adding a support for a 2nd shock absorber. I've found out the hard way that the stock strut by itself does not provide enough dampening and if driven hard the strut tube will bend where it enters the knuckle. I know a member here that bent a set so hard they kinked the tube and the piston rod jammed in the down posistion. That was around 10+ feet of air under the front though. GD

There is no relay. Check your battery cables and connections as well as the connector to the ignition swith under the dash. You may need to install a relay if there is damage to the crank circuit - do a search on it and you'll come up with many threads on how to install a crank relay. GD

Make sure the cable is actually moving the fork. Check the pedal end of the cable for anomalous activitiy. Look down into the fork openeing with a flashlight and see if the fork has cracked or bent. It happens occasionally. GD

Yeah - I can do those pretty easily. I have one on my car right now. It's just a second u-joint connected to the first with a splined shaft. You eliminate the rag joint entirely. Makes for a much more positive feel in the steering. GD