GeneralDisorder

If those don't have what you need I can look in my FSM and tell you what fuses are run from the link you are having problems with. GD

None of that is a good idea - the pump being on a toggle switch is a fire hazzard in a wreck or when left on overnight - at the very least it should be on an ignition switched relay with proper fusing. And the pump should be back by the tank as they are more efficient (last longer) when they are pushing the fuel as opposed to pulling it. GD

Sounds like a bad voltage regulator to me. The blown fusible link could be a short caused by the AC from the bad VR damaging something.... you'll have to trace down the short, repair the VR, etc. Do you have an FSM? It will tell you what circuits are run by the different fusible links..... GD

Yes - it's much easier to do the job right if you pull the section that has the sensor in it. As I said it's only a few extra minutes. This is a Subaru - not a Honda. O2 sensors in general seem to enjoy getting seriously welded to the pipe. They are notorious for this. Penetrant spray is neccesary and sometimes it's best if you can loosen the sensor when the exhaust is hot. As for the head gaskets - with a phase I EJ25 it's really only a matter of time. They had to redesign the gaskets because they just didn't hold. They can let go as early as 50k miles or as late as 200k but sadly they don't last for the life of the engine like earlier and later designs often do. Timing belt interval is 105k so you are comming up on that as noted above. When you do the belt I strongly sugest you replace the tensioner, idler and tensioner bearings, front seals, and water pump. GD

Go for a low-mileage first-gen Legacy. That's 90 to 94. You just can't go wrong with those years. Simple, reliable, inexpensive, plentiful parts, and made before they "cost-cut" the whole lineup in '95. If she's responsible and can handle the insurance - for 4k you could likely find a 92 to 94 Turbo Touring Wagon with the EJ22T. Best. Engine. Ever. Nice ride too with leather appointments.... Stay away from phase I EJ25's and frankly might as well avoid the phase II's while you are at it (the aforementioned head gasket nightmare engines). That's pretty much everything through '02 or '03 or so. If she's set on an Outback - find a '96 with a 5 speed. Last year for the EJ22. Cheap interior like all '95+ stuff, but non-interferance EJ22 and Outback looks. Regular "L" models still got the EJ22 on into the later 90's but they became interferance in '97. Still a good engine but watch the timing belt interval. I see you are in Lapine - I'm in Portland. I have a '95 L wagon for sale very soon. 165k, EJ22, Auto, ABS, 6 speaker factory CD, AC, rear spoiler, etc. I've done a full 60k service (timing belt, all front seals, idlers/tensioner bearings, water pump, etc), and it is getting a repainted front bumper cover shortly (cosmetic damage). I was looking to get about $2500 for it. It's metallic red. GD

Are there any codes stored in the computer? GD

Factory pumps seem to work just fine on the Weber. Pressure regulator would do the trick as well. Regulators are cheap - like $25 to $35. Depends on the regulator. Inexpensive one's just drop the pressure. More involved unit's are capable of returning excess to the tank - usually one's that are designed to raise the pressure via a vacuum/pressure signal from the manifold (often used for forced induction). I've used it on some and not on other's. Doesn't seem to matter much either way. GD

Start your own thread gravedigger. GD

21 if the regulator is working properly. 50 from the pump if you pinch off the return line. GD

Typically it's easiest if you just drop the exhaust header/cat sections off and pull them out from under the car. It only takes a few minutes to remove them. GD

You should change the fuel filter before you do anything else. And if that doesn't cure it run a check on the fuel pressure. If you plug in the two green connectors under the dash the ECU will flash the codes to you in long/short flashes. GD

Discount Import Parts can get them but will still have to order the kit and that can take a day or two. Personally I don't lilke the Redline kit as well as what carbsunlimited.com can build for you. Call them and tell them what you need. If your car isn't lifted let them know you need the "short" air filter or they will give you the tall one that won't fit under the hood. You can also specify what type of choke you want, etc. With the redline kit you don't get that choice. I prefer the manual choke DGV-5A. GD

Watch for signs of head gasket failure. Almost a sure bet with that engine. GD

The stock snorkel already does that without the potential for hydro-locking your engine - that's what we are trying to tell you. It's a gimick - one that will do nothing but cause potential problems. GD

Yep - much better to leave it stock. All you will get by modification is noise and potential hydro-lock. The air you get under the hood will be warmer = less power. GD

You are better off buying a kit with a brand new carb and adaptor plate included. By the time you figure the cost of the used carb, the adaptor plate, the rebuild kit, some jet changes, and possibly a choke change you will be at or near $200 and a lot more labor. The kit will be jetted, the carb will have no throttle shaft wear - overall it's a much better option for very little more money and a ton less work and hair-pulling. The kits can be had near or slightly over $300. GD

I have a similar system - two bags - one is 3/8" drive plus screwdrivers. The other is 1/2" and 1/4" drive. The big stuff goes in an open shoulder tote - the canvas style with the rigid metal frame and the shoulder strap. Makes it easy to haul around and easy to find things - I can pile it into a wheelbarrow at the junk yard and it's all accesible. What amazes me is all the people I see at the junk yard carring a single phillips screwdriver - like what they hell are you planning to do with that pal? GD

Shelving and plastic tote containers. Any big stuff goes out to the shed out back. That's my system for parts. I try to organize the parts along generational lines - EA81/EA82/EJ22/etc. Tools are hung on the wall or are in rolling chests. I keep a seperate tool set for the junk yard and mobile work. Still - I don't get enough time to organize and clean. Every day I have a list of things that need to be done that's longer than the day before. GD

Yes - 12pt - that's common with larger bolts when the head needs to fit in a tight clearance area - either 12pt or socket-head. If they made them 6pt heads they would have to be a 16 or 17mm head vs. a 14mm with the 12pt - it gives more grip with the socket over a 6pt or a socket-head. Makes the bolts more expensive but sometimes that's worth it. GD

In case you aren't aware, the die-case material on the Atlas's is called ZAMAC. That's the primary reason I stayed away from them when I went searching for a lathe. Although apparently you can still get some of the parts and those machines are very common being sold by Sears. I just didn't feel good about that ZAMAC stuff nor Clausing's support of those old machines - they sold out and are importing Chinese machines. GD

Inspect carefully - sawdust and chips are not kind to metal-working equipment - it absorbs lubrication (which was hopefully being used regularly ). My Logan was used by an old alfalfa farmer for most of it's life - he restored Model A's and Model T's but I think he got a little funny in the head in his old age because not everything was put together right on my machine - I had to dissasemble the QCG and flip some things around - and he didn't oil some bits that he should have. It wasn't terribly abused, but it wasn't owned by a real machinist either GD

80 through 84 should all be similar, yes. '82 through '84 for sure will fit as well as 85 to 89 Hatch and 85 to 87 Brat. The spindle is the same as on EA82 4WD's as well as the bearing. The axles can use EA82 joint's and cup's if you have the shaft - it's shorter for EA81's. I know of two EA81's at a yard close to me but both are FWD. I'll have a look for you at the other yards when I go. GD

Yeah - I have seen some pictures of the P&W stuff - some of them were really amazing machines. I saw a picture of one on the internet with a gear reduction unit on it that could turn some rediculously low speed like 5 RPM. It was said that it could produce unbroken ribbons of material .001" in thickness, 2" wide and as long as you wanted. GD

That's a stop-leak additive to try and catch head gaskets that *could* fail in the future - it's just something that either causes swell in the seals around the coolant ports or it's got some particulates that are designed to lodge in the holes forming in the gaskets and damn them up. At best it's a stop-gap solution and won't fix it forever. It's like dropping an egg into the radiator to fix a hole. Same idea but with longer term use in mind. The idea was surely to get the head gaskets to last till the warantee period expired so they wouldn't have to pop for the labor and parts to fix them for real. So in that sense - yes it's a bill of goods they are trying to sell you. It will mask the problem for a while but it won't solve anything in the long run. In the case of the coolant additive though it's not going to hurt anything either but that's not the case with gear oil additives and engine oil additives. Those can definitely cause more harm than good over the long term. GD

Check the timing belts - sometimes they strip teeth off and look like they are intact but things aren't in time like they are supposed to be. Are you *sure* you have spark? If you have spark, fuel, and air - then something is wrong with the valve timing or ignition timing. GD