GeneralDisorder

Yes - you could use an EA82 ('85 to '94) coil-over setup. Basically it's exactly like the trailer picture you linked to but instead of the shock it has a coil-over strut. Otherwise it's almost identical to what you have seen - just the tube has no torsion bar inside it and the weight is carried by the spring on the coil-over. GD

Just tore one down to the short-block with 250k - factory hone marks still very prominent. Granted it was little-old-lady driven it's entire life, but still - it's not uncommon to see on EA's. Subaru's do tend to use a bit of oil just due to their cylinder's being horizontal rather than near vertical as most other engine's. Mostly valve stem seals is what I have seen fail unless they have been abused at some point in their life. GD

Is it a feedback model? GD

Yep - sounds like a faulty check valve before the vacuum accumulator or a small leak in the system. As you open the throttle, you lose manifold vacuum - same reason the Toyota's with the faulty gas pedal have no brakes at WOT. You have no vacuum signal to retain the posistion of the HVAC actuators. The fact that this happens only at drops in manifold vacuum points to the system having a leak - either from a bad check valve or from a small leak in a line to the actuator or the heater control "button valves" in the cabin. Leaks in the tubing inside the cabin are rare since it's a hard plastic tubing for all but the connections to the controls and the actuators. GD

Not worth $3,000. You could buy a 90 to 94 Legacy wagon - get more HP, better mileage (a lot better), and nicer/newer amenities with the same mileage for probably less than that price. The EA81T is very primitive - it makes 95 HP, has very dated electronics and fuel injection, and is very hard to source components for. It may be "nice", but it's value is purely as a collectible for the right person - not as a daily driver, and certainly not for the price being asked. A good condition, low mileage EA81 wagon is worth *maybe* $1,000. The turbo doesn't add to the value - it actually detracts from the value due to the complexity, automatic transmission, etc. Those are detracting points for the EA81 body. It's worth more as a parts car for a turbo Brat frankly. If you are looking for a nice wagon - I have a '95 L that will be for sale soon - auto, ABS, all power, 6 speaker, factory CD, roof rack, rear spoiler, 165k. It will have a full 60k service done shortly. I was going to list it for $2500. Just to give you some perspective. GD

The ECU may phisically have the pins - but it probably doesn't have the circuits and it definitely doesn't have the programming enabled. There would be no point to supplying the feature and if it were as simple as adding the knock sensor then the ECU would have no way of knowing if it should/should not output a sensor malfunction code when it is not present. 99.9% chance that hooking up a sensor to the pins will result in nothing at all. You would have to hack the ECU to enable/add the code to handle the knock sensor timing routines. A simpler method would be to install Mega-Squirt or similar engine management and chuck the ECU. GD

Probably have to rewrite the software in the ECU to take advantage of it. Or use a turbo ECU without the turbo. The software in the stock ECU isn't going to be looking for the knock sensor if they aren't already equipped with one. GD

It's not that bad - you wrap the sharp bits in cardboard and ship it bare. Don't need a box. But if your's is not rusted and you can get a good deal on having the flanges done then I don't see any problem with that either - just depends on what you want. GD

I could probably get one for you shortly. My lifted wagon is equipped with one just to move it around. GD

Just leave the pressure plate bolts loose and tighten them through the starter hole. Oldest trick on the USMB. Works every time. GD

I had a follow up post to this one - do a search it should come up. Basically just cap off the metering ports. That seems to work the best as opposed to leaving them open or trying to use all the thermo-valves and vacuum valves to control them. GD

I wouldn't go that far - they are useful if you plow through deep snow, or go crossing river's, etc. They keep errant fingers and dropped shop rags from getting mixed up in the running belts. It just depends on what the plan is for the car. If it's just a street car and you don't plan to drive in 1+ foot of snow then loose the covers. GD

Just to fix all that stuff? Not much - you just have to spend some time at the junk yards to find decent used parts. Good door panels aren't hard to find - a temp selector will be a bit of a challenge as most of them have one issue or another. To make a proper one you have to combine parts from various years as they fixed one issue but introduced others with the changes. The clock is easy - just needs the solder joints remelted on the back. The TOD could be several things - anything from seals to needing a new oil pump or lifters. You can try some ATF in the oil for a while and see if that helps clean them up. GD

I don't think shipping would be as expensive as you think. Not as expensive as having it rewelded anyway. They are bulky but not really that heavy. I sent an EJ22 short block on a pallet to the east coast for like $86. That was heavier and had an extra charge for the pallet. I guess it comes down to how rusty your's is and if you can find someone to do the flange welding cheaply. If you can then I can find some flanges - the junk yards here cut the cat out but leave the runners to the heads. *edit* - did a quick check on UPS and I estimated 40 lbs for the pipe (it's probably less) - ground shipping would be about $45 it looks like. GD

Yeah I don't think they do that anymore - rather, I got college credit for basic and AIT. If they did have a program like that it wouldn't have fit my skill set back then as there is no MOS in the Army for software engineering. GD

I'm almost positive I have a nice, rust free NW EA82 y-pipe in my shed. If you cover shipping I'll spin the flanges and reweld them and it's yours. I don't have any use for it anyhow. GD

Time for a trip to the hardware store - Even a severely oversized hole *can* be fixed. If that means going to a large set-screw or hex drive plug and then drilling/tapping the set screw for the stud then so be it. You may need carbide to remove the heli-coil now that it's been chewed up by a drill bit. I would even consider making adaptor flanges at this point. Basically a flange that bolts to the head in the unused holes and has studs in it for the stock pipe. Some 3/8" or 1/2" plate would do the job. A band-saw and a drill press and a simple layout would produce a couple plates in an hour or so...... don't know if you know anyone with skills like that or not - better than making a one-off exhaust manifold in my opinion though. GD

Pull it back out and if it's not damaged retry the operation. It needs to go in more-or-less evenly all the way around. A seal driver would be best but obviously everyone doesn't have one. I use a small ball-peen hammer to work slowely around the seal and drive it in evenly with shallow movement's. GD

Leave em off. More trouble than they are worth. Just watch where you set your shop rag when it's running. 20 minutes to change both without the cover's. Saves about 2 hours and gives easy access to adjust the tension. GD

It already had a heli-coil in it? So did that strip out?!?! Holy Cow dude! Sorry for your trouble - I mean..... I would totally help you out if you were close. There's always unexpected problems that crop up but it sounds like someone has been down there messing around before you got the car. No telling what they did then. Try to get some pictures and I'll think up a way out for you. I can cobble stuff together with the best of them if there's a need. Field expediency we called it in the Army. Bubble gum and bailing wire. Get me some pics so I can clearly see what you are dealing with here. GD

I'm not really sure what any of that has to do with gasket's....... but ok. I've never said anything for or against your qualifications. You seem to know your stuff as well as any 63B I've met (52D myself). I did my share of "wheeled vehicle's" in the service - did more of them than I would have liked in fact. Probably one of the reasons I left after my 8 year obligation. I had the highest test scores they had ever seen at AIT (and ever will see - since I scored 100% on every test). Army exams are pathetic IMO - open book is no challenge at all if you can actually read (surprisingly challenging for a lot of the folks that enlist though ). GD

It will still run the fuel pump on "key-on" to pressurize the fuel rail. Maybe it's fireing the injector intermittantly as well due to abnormal CAS output - thus the code. But that would tend to point toward the amp or coil. I would get a complete set used and swap things out one at a time - probably starting with the distributor just to rule out those phantom codes. Carry the other spares and your tools with you..... GD

Sounds like you have a vacuum leak or a timing problem to me. Don't mess with the jetting. Check your fuel pressure to insure you aren't flooding the carb due to it being too high for some reason. You do have a new fuel filter before the carb right? The jetting between the two is very similar. I took the carb I had jetted perfectly for my EA81 hatch (verified with a wide-band O2) and installed it on an '86 EA82 sedan. Runs just fine - only change I had to make was upsize the idle jet from a 50 to a 60 because it wouldn't respond to rapid changes from idle to WOT (called poor "progression"). But if you don't drive it like a drag car you would never even know. GD

The weber adaptor isn't the greatest design, but the Weber is more often installed on these little engines for simplicity and reliability - to replace an ageing and complex Hitachi that is both worn out, misunderstood, and not very sporty with it's vacuum secondary. If you were looking for extra performance then the adator would fail to get a passing grade for sure. But just having a working, new carb is enough for most of the people using them. It's not that big of a deal to make a custom two-peice adaptor or TIG weld an SPFI manifold into submission for mounting a Weber if performance was the real objective. I do usually make my own gasket for them and sometimes I use anaerobic flange sealant instead of a gasket. Seems to work well for me - did an EA82 two-peice adaptor with it about 6 months ago. Working great. GD

Check to see if the capture nuts are present - likely they are and all you have to do is get a set from a Loyale and install them. They are probably there because place like NZ and AUS had to have rear shoulder belts. I've even seen them on AUS EA81 models. GD