GeneralDisorder

'83 is the same as '84 except uses a different vacuum choke pull-off. They can be swapped around if you care enough to bother or just disabled since you don't really need that system if you adjust them correctly. I have one that I rebuilt and converted to a manual choke if you are interested in it. Works great but might not be what you are looking for. $125 plus shipping would be my asking price as I would have to replace it and rebuild another one for the vehicle it's on. They are junk carbs though - you should look into a Weber. The Hitachi has too many ancillery systems to be easily tuneable - it was designed for economy and driveability not for performance, tuning, or ease of maintenance. The vacuum secondary really kills the deal for most of us and they can't be tuned for progressive opening due to the lack of a secondary idle circuit or progression holes/slots. GD

Check the connections at the back of the clutster. Probably something loose or corroded. Temp gauge is indeed a ground issue. Very common. Either that or a bad sending unit. EA82 digi dash's aren't bad. It's the EA81 models that had severe problems. GD

Probably got a lot of bearing wear on the input shaft bearings. Sounds like it's time for a tear down and a bearing/syncro job. Fancy oil won't fix it. Likely will add to the problem more than it will help. Good quality GL-5 is all that should go in there or ATF for a flush. GD

5 psi into a non-turbo EJ22 dyno's about 200 HP. Should be faster than a stock 22T. VF7 is a poor choice - you want a TD04 from a WRX. GD

To make the EA82T reliable you would have to have very tight fuel control and cylinder head temp monitors, exhaust temp, wideband O2, etc. Basically you have to dump a crapload of extra fuel into it to cool the cylinder's under boost. Management is the key. But it's got to be the total package - built internals, o-ringed block, head studs, etc. You can keep one together IF you monitor it like a race engine and compensate for it's bad behavior. It's just not worth it and no one builds them up the right way since the cost would be outragous without return on the investment. At most you could get 175 HP reliably with reduced engine life. People who know both how to build one, how to monitor it, and how to keep it together ALSO know they can make more HP without all the extra equipment with a less expensive EJ. When you consider that it makes more power, gets better mileage, and costs less...... anyone that's in the know would come to the same conclusion. It just sometimes takes years of kicking and screaming before they come over to the logical side. GD

I sold the EJ22T manifolds and up-pipe - though I do have the down-pipe and probably the rest of the exhaust. You can pick up a cheap single-peice header from ebay or something then you could run like 5 psi into the non-turbo EJ22. What do you mean by "8 slots"? Is that a rim style? If they are 4 lug they should fit unless they are EA81 rims then you might have to grind on the caliper's a bit. GD

I agree - the single port seems to have a gob of torque to it. Such was my experience with the '96 I recently sold. Good little motor. GD

Dude! Is that my car in your avatar? Lol. Anyway - yeah - if you swap the tranny the dash will work fine other than not having the "Lo" range indicator and never illuminating the auto gear indicators. You could likely wire up the 4WD lamp without much trouble. Also - as Gloyale points out with the neutral switch - you will need a D/R from an SPFI car in order for it to even have the nuetral switch. Otherwise you'll have to fake it with a clutch pedal switch. Haven't seen you around here much lately. You should drop by sometime when you get the car. GD

Suface finish is a BIG topic, and different types of gaskers require different finishes. Typically these older engines like a rougher finish than the newer engines with MLM (mulit-layer-metal) head gaskets. The graphite in the older style gaskets tends to grip better when there is some roughness. Mirror finish would not be appropriate at all in the case of the EA engines. The finish you get by lapping the heads using about a 400 grit paper should be more than sufficient for EA head gaskets. Definitely no smoother. GD

Probably flows a bit better, yes. Not worth the hassle of modding though. Get ready with your TIG torch. GD

If it's only .060" then I would probably ignore it. Sounds like it's some kind of extra seal in case the rear main should leak - maybe to keep seepage from getting on the clutch? Just a WAG. GD

I can sort-of envision what you are talking about, but I've never seen such a thing. Virtually all of my American made experience is with GM products - that's all the military had by the time I went in and since then I've worked on a few like my '69 GMC but like you I've only ever seen the sheet-metal dust cover's below the flywheel/clutch. Wish I could be of more help. I'll ask a friend of mine that has some Ford experience if he has seen anything like that. I know he has a van that used to have a 300 6 in it - has an Isuzu deisel in it now though. GD

It's easy to pass DEQ here in OR with any carb. 1/2 tank of denatured alcohol, retard timing to about 2 to 4 degrees BTDC. Just about any engine should pass with that combo as long as it goes down the road. GD

CFM of the compressor has nothing to do with the air delivery of the tank+hose when the tank is fully charged. The compressor isn't even running and likely has a shut-down set point of 120 psi+. All guns that I'm aware of are rated at regulated 90 psi. There might be a restriction in the regulator or hose.... GD

We had a big nut at work that welded itself to the shaft it was on - this thing was massive - the thread was like 3.5" in diameter and the nut was like 6" OD. I don't know how the threads got messed up, but the torque on this bad boy was 1200 Ft/lbs and the shaft it was on was worth about $10k. It came down to having one of our guys spend two and a half days grinding and chiseling on the nut to remove it in peices and save the shaft/thread. I know that's not what you want to hear, but it may come down to chiseling and grinding it off. As for how to grind on it - you will have to go in a diagonal across the nut - almost perpendicular to the shaft but with enough of an angle to cut through the nut on a slant. Thus avoiding the hub as much as possible. Hacksaw blades are flexible as are sawzall blades to a point - some sugestions anyway. If you know someone with a plasma cutter...... you can zap off the bulk of the nut and fracture the remaining thin section. Whatever you do - be prepared for the possiblity that the axle won't survive. Maybe not the hub either. In fact - it might be wise to have a used axle/knuckle assembly ready to go on. Don't forget that if you get the thing hot enough to come apart - should you go that route - the grease in the bearings and possibly the roller cages (plastic versions) could be baked beyond salvage. GD

Being that it's only when stopping - I would tend to think it was brake related. Are you sure it's comming from the front? Could it be badly adjusted rear drums? GD

EA81's use the same seal on both sides of the knuckle. EA82's use one with a smaller ID on the inside..... but you claim it's an EA81 vehicle so..... It is not ok for the bearing to not be shouldered up inside the knuckle. The fit of the cone washer, etc are dependant on the bearings being properly in place. GD

I just use a silver paint pen for electronic's work. GD

Time for the blue-wrench I would say. Heat and lots of it. GD

What did the cone washer's look like? GD

I've never used anything on Head Gaskets - and never had a set leak either. I would say it's uneccesary at best and could cause problems with the gasket bonding to the sufaces at worst. Definitely chase all the threads, wire wheel the studs/bolts, and oil them durring installation and torqueing. GD

Your timing is fine. You may have some vacuum leaks. You need to figure out the source of that miss. If you want to pass you will likely have to replace the catalytic converter. The miss you have has surely destroyed it - unburned fuel will make quick work of a cat. The stock carbs are a real mess - be prepared for a fight to get it passing. GD

Single port came before interferance. I just sold a '96 that was a single port. I asked about this a while back and was "learned" on the differences. They did go to single port heads in '96 but it wasn't till later that they became interferance (and higher HP) as well. GD

The black canistors are the vacuum valves I spoke of. Remove them and block the manifold and carb body nipples. GD

Confirm - if there's no metal in the diff and the gears look good/tight then it's not your problem. I have only heard of a tiny handful of rear diff failures on Subaru's. It's very uncommon. The VLSD components are sealed with a special fluid and in any case don't even turn when going straight so can't really be associated with your problem. Are you sure it didn't have a nasty rear wheel bearing? Very common on the early Forester's and usually isn't audible till you hit freeway speeds. Otherwise I would also suspect the driveline - but if you find nothing there then I would have a look at the rear knuckles as it sounds like it could be a bearing. GD