GeneralDisorder

That's not entirely the case. Let me explain. First - you are 100% correct that often aftermarket parts are just repackaged OEM. I've opened Beck-Arnley parts to find the part stuffed in the box still has the Subaru OEM plastic wrap and label around it. Actually I bought two EA engine mounts from Rockauto and both came in the same box - one was not wrapped and the other was inside the Subaru plastic. Both were identical parts and both were obviously OEM. Now - the grey area comes in when you start talking about component quality. If it's a rubber engine mount then obviously there isn't many ways in which the manufacturer can cost-cut, but on more complex items - say a water pump for instance - there are a range of component's that could be used in it's construction. The same assembly plant could use top shelf bearings and seals in the production run that goes to the Subaru factory parts warehouse - then they could switch to a lower tier bearing/seal combination for a VISUALLY IDENTICAL PART to be boxed up for an aftermarket supplier. The buyer of the parts always dictates what quality parts they want used, how many they wish to buy, etc. All of that plays big into profit margins and retail price points - that is the world of business and the "customer is always right" - customer in this case refering to the buyer of the parts - Subaru, AC/Delco, etc, etc. If you think they only supply a single tier of component quality you are sadly mistaken. Where there's a market for it, there will be a supplier and if you are already tooled up to make a part it's a simple matter to scale the product quality and offer a range - if they didn't someone else would. My point is simply that just because the part *looks* the same AND came from the same supplier, doesn't mean it is. Also if you buy from the dealer you are gauranteed to get OEM - if you buy aftermarket you may or may not get an OEM part and having to open each box, look at each part, reject it or ask for another brand, go to another store, wait for them to special order, etc is time consuming and troublesome. For those who have more time than money that's fine - but a lot of us just want the RIGHT part, the FIRST time and don't want any hassles with quality, etc. That often means going straight to THE experts - which is the dealer. As for EA engines - thermostat gaskets, manifold gaskets (intake/exhaust), cam tower o-rings on the EA82's, oil pump seals, and cam seals I get at the dealer - the extra cost for these small parts far outweighs the frustration of the Fel-Pro and other aftermarket seals. I have NEVER seen an aftermarket intake manifold gasket like the one from the dealer - they are like a head gasket - graphite impregnated metal. Aftermarket are all cardboard and they are all crap. They can't handle the coolant cross-over passage. GD

Yeah - the AC relay's bypass the thermo-switch and power up both fans. Sounds like you need a new thermo-switch and probably a new mechanic - if he couldn't figure that out then he needs to go back to first-year principles of water cooled internal combustion. And lets face it - this is very nearly a 70's vintage car - it's not like it's a terribly complex machine. GD

I know - I need to get on it. Dang these "responsibilities" anyway Never enough time in the day. GD

The MPFI won't work without a set of turbo heads and the system is quite complex - not to mention dated and very difficult to source parts for. The SPFI system doesn't have the injector overhead to accomidate a turbo and in any case the ECU goes all funny when the manifold crosses over from vacuum to pressure. Again - complex if you are going to turbo it - you would need at least a mega-squirt setup and an enrichment injector plus all the tuning aids to make sure you don't blow the heads off or punch holes in the pistons. Your best bet (all joking aside) is to swap over to a carb that handles forced induction. I've done it with a Weber 32/36 but something that's not progressive would be a better choice - like a 38/38 DGAS for example. Then just get some EA82 turbo manifold bits and run the turbo right into the carb. Properly jetted and tuned it will run like a demon. Far easier given the stock configuration of the EA81 than any kind of fuel injection will be. As I said I was involved with such a swap using a 32/36 but it was on a Suzuki Samurai. We used a VF7 from an EA82T and built a custom exhaust manifold to bolt up the VF7 to. The carb was basically stock - it was modified with o-rings on the throttle shafts, and a sealed box was fabricated for the pipe from the turbo to blow into the carb. The only thing that you will have to source (and I can get the supplier's info if you like - they offer them online) is a rising rate fuel pressure regulator as the fuel pressure inside the float bowl has to climb as you add boost so the boost pressure doesn't slam the inlet needle shut. It wasn't terribly expensive (less than $100) and they come out of Italy somewhere. You don't want to run more than 4 or 5 psi into a stock EA81 block - you'll cause big issues if you go higher than that. That should be enough though - 5 pounds into a stock EA81 should push it well over 100 HP. Anyway - that's my sugestion. If you really want to do it you can. Although an EJ22 swap would be better (135 HP) and likely simpler if you aren't into custom fabrication. GD

Very common with Fords. I've had to do tie-rod ends on several mid to late 90's vintage Fords. For some reason some years had really bad tie-rod ends while other's seem to never fail. Poor quality parts from overseas suppliers I suppose. GD

Thanks for the links Steve - I'll check those out. I beleive the float is part of the problem. I have a brand new float and needle/seat comming (as well as an electric choke for it ). What I did find though - after I sorted out most of it's problems, was the fuel pressure from the mechanical fuel pump I put in is just WAY too high (or the float is weak). The pump was new - I figured maybe it was bad (over 10 psi on my cheap guage) so I replaced it. Same problem - I thought there was a slight possibility of the fuel pump having sucked in some rust and corrosion from the tank so I replaced it a second time. Same problem. Three pumps and the pressure is still high enough to blow the needle off the seat at idle or after shutdown and fuel would overflow the bowl and drip out the primary throttle shaft bore. This third pump was installed with brand new clean fuel line and a brand new paper element filter (clear - so I can check for blockage) before it from the supply line. After the third pump showed the same symptoms I installed a fuel pressure regulator set to 4 psi and the problem has not returned. I guess I'll install the new float and needle/seat when I get them as well as the choke. But I'm leaving the pressure regulator in place. Can't hurt and definitely seems to curb all the nasty symptoms I was having. So - problem solved for now. GD

1/8" deflection on the EA82 timing belts is pretty normal. They are not hydraulically tensioned so they stretch as they age. Some people tighten them and other's do not - it does not seem to make a great deal of difference in their overall life. Either way they tend to last about 50 to 60k. As for your issue - if the plugs are wet with fuel then you have an intermittant no-spark issue I would say. Sounds like the CAS is a good place to start. I've never heard of anyone having luck cleaning them but being that the ECU threw out a code it can't hurt to swap in a good used one or one from a JY car that was obviously running (look for one that was wrecked if you can find one). The other places for failure is the ingition amplifier and the coil - the amp being located on the coil bracket itself. They can and do fail - it's not all that common but it's the most common failure in the SPFI ignition component list. Distributor's and coil's (OEM, not aftermarket) are very reliable. Also the coil bracket has to be grounded as the ignition amp requires the bracket ground to complete it's circuit. GD

The fan (passenger side primary fan) should come on with it just idling in the driveway. It should come up to temp - the fan should come on to cool the radiator and when the temp drops below the switch set-point the fan goes back off. It should continue cycling like that indefinitely. You should not have to drive it to test the fan. The thermo-switch is in the passenger side radiator tank - it's a single wire connection and it grounds through the radiator so if the grounding wire for the radiator (usually on the top near the center of the radiator and connected to the top of the core support) is loose, corroded, or missing then the fan will never receive a closed circiut and never turn on. GD

The spring side always points toward the contained fluid for situations like wheel bearings, etc. GD

You should do a leak-down test before you do anything. You may indeed find that it's rings - and I think it's likely that as well being you did a head job on it - anytime you do the top-end without doing the bottom end you put higher stresses on worn components. The valves might seal good and run great for a time, but that means higher compression and more stress on parts left untouched. Subaru engines in general do not typically exhibit ring/bore problems. Though it's not impossible, it's way down on the list. Valves stems are a much more common way to burn oil. You may find something entirely unexpected though. And have you checked the PCV system? I bet it's not routed properly and that can both cause oil consumption issues, as well as not exctract acidic blow-by gases that can cause internal damage - especially if the engine isn't run up to operating temp or sits for long periods of non-use. GD

Low end cheapo amp it sounds like. I found some posts on a car audio forum saying they are notorious lier's about the wattage rating of their units, etc. Not that it won't work - just probably isn't rated at the power it claims it is. GD

That's not too bad of a drive - I've been there a few times for Subaru show's and such. Been a few years - I think it was about 3 or 4 hours. There are people closer that know these engines but most of them are busy all the time. You might contact Tubone (Rob) - he is in the seattle area and might be able to lend a hand. I'm not sure he knows EA81's like I do, but he definitely can handle it - he's built a number of EA82's and has some pretty custom turbo stuff. If you are interested in comming down it would make a nice day trip. And I won't lie - I could use the business as I'm laid off currently. I have some customer's from up north - one faithful gentleman brings me his '90 Legacy from Tacoma every month or two for one thing or another. I guess honest, knowledgable Subaru mechanics aren't all that common :-\. Or if you are willing to follow direction you could likely do most of it yourself. As I said most of it is pretty simple and frankly it's just common sense when you think about it. Your mechanic probably just isn't interested - sounds like he would rather work on something else and explain away your problems with "that's just how it is" rather than find out what is actually wrong and fix it. EA81's don't "just blow oil out the valve covers". It's getting sucked out because the PCV system is a mess. GD

I must have them confused with that darn Q-Jet I've been working on In any case there is not a secondary idle system present on most of the EA carbs (they are cast for them, but not actually present - no mixture screw, and vacant jet holes), and the idle jets aren't interchangeable with the mains so I doubt he's got them in the wrong place, etc. More likely all the passages weren't open to the cleaner when it was dipped. It's common for people not to strip carbs far enough to get them 100% clean inside. GD

All of those problems are easy fixes for someone that knows these cars. Where are you located? If you are near the Portland metro area I could take a look at it and probably fix it right up in a few hours. Very likely it just needs some cleaning of the PCV system - new valve and filter, and an oil pump seal kit. The mileage on your engine is very low and it's actually age more than mileage that's causing you problems. The oil pump should only be replaced if it's actually worn out - which is possible depending on the maintenance history, but not typical at all - and if it does they are about $75 give or take and they take about 15 minutes to change out. Bring it by if you are near and I can set you straight - probably very inexpensively. GD

No problem. It wasn't *really* my idea. The speculation that they might fit came from a member that was formerly into Datsun Z cars - the Maxima alt is a popular upgrade for them and they happen to use an almost identical alt to the EA's. It wasn't hard to do the math after seeing pictures of all three (EA, Z-Car, Maxima) - then it was just a matter of trying it out. GD

As far as I know, no one has tried it with a multi-rib setup - you can be the first. GD

Jet sizes won't affect the idle circuit. When the throttle is closed enough for the idle to operate the mains aren't online anyway. Hitachi idle jets are fixed - you can't easily change them - the only adjustment is the mixture screw. GD

Check the manifold gaskets - it's a common failure and often mistaken for head gaskets. GD

'83 and '84 Automatic's only (including turbo's), and ALL '85-'89 models. And yes that includes Brat's. My '85 Brat had a hydro engine stock. GD

'99 Forester was the first year for the phase II 2.5 (SOHC) so older 2.5's (DOHC) will not work, but some older 2.2's (SOHC) will. Newer 2.5's will work as well. I am not familair enough to say *how new* will fit but at least a couple years and maybe more. GD

Yeah - EJ seats will sit you higher when put into EA vehicles. Plus they require welding and other modifications to bolt up. EA82 seats are interchageable - sometimes you do have to swap the rails around as when putting Loyale seats (auto belts) into older GL's. GD

I should think it would work fine with that AC setup. I don't see any clearance issues but you might want to look over how close things are to the alt case. If you remove the AC, you can swap out the brackets for one's that will work for sure. GD

Discovered that the Q-Jet has the leaking welch plugs - it's getting the JB weld treatment as we speak. Hopefully that cures the rich idle and fuel leaking out the throttle shafts. Time to change the oil..... again GD

Make sure all the fuses are good and check that the screw didn't fall out of the distributor rotor, etc. Sounds electrical from your description. I would be looking for burnt fuses, fusible links, etc. GD

The manual choke is part of a larger picture de-emissioning and simplifiying of the carb. If you are going to remove the pull-off mechanisms or disable them then it helps to have manual control. The addition of the cable is about $8 and a few minutes to route it to the cabin. No big deal. I completely understand if you want to keep it stock - just a sugestion. I've gone a few rounds with the Hitachi's and found them not really to my liking. GD