GeneralDisorder

AIS has absolutely nothing to do with the manifold. You can remove it at any time. GD

Check the pump, and it's volume/pressure. And you might have a problem with a sticky float or needle valve. It can happen. GD

That will work, but it's better to pull out the nipples, and tap the holes for alan head set screws. Then you locktite them in place. And JB weld is kind of crappy/cheap/home depot level stuff. Get some Dev-Con that's made for filling aluminium if you go that route - when it dries you can file it smooth and you won't be able tell it's there. I would still sink set screws in till they are about 1/8" below the surface though. If you have the means, pull the nipples out and TIG the holes. GD

You can do anything you like - it doesn't mean it will work good. You will need some vacuum lines. Brake booster, etc. And deleting things like the EGR - that's a judgement call. It reduces combustion temps be several hundred degrees - that's good for the environment, and good for your exhaust valves, seals, and engine operating temps. It doesn't hurt performance either. Before you go modifying anything - you need to understand how the system works now, how you want it to work and why, and all the trade off's you are going to make to get there. Otherwise you'll end up with a half-assed POS like well over half the people around here. GD

The orientation of the filter doesn't matter - just pay attention to the arrow that indicates direction of flow through it. There's a clip that it should snap into near the pump. If I remember correctly the nipples are toward the top of the filter, but you should be able to tell from the bend in the hoses, and the location of the bracket. Don't forget the vapor-seperator/filter under the hood as well. Also there may be a screen in the inlet of the carb, and there's also supposed to be an orifice in the return line.... or maybe the nipple is the orifice. It's hard to tell from the FSM. GD

They seem fine - I've used two of them and wasn't appaled at the quality of the components. Definitely inexpensive bearings, etc - but the EA82's change interval is so short that as long as you do the whole kit each time it shouldn't be a problem. And for the price you might as well do everything each time. I wouldn't go and try to run 120k on those cheap bearings, but the price is right for an every 50k maintenance schedule. GD

The '89 may be an EA82 three-door. It's hard to say without going there. Tigard (which is really Sherwood/King City) has more than that - as of yesterday they have an 86 Hatch (2WD 4 speed STD), 84 Hatch (2WD Auto), 83 GL Wagon (D/R 4WD, Digi-dash), and an 83 Turbo Wagon. All of which I've picked over pretty hard of course. Sherwood is my yard of choice for older Subaru's in the area - they also often undercharge me. GD

Steering rack's don't pop generally. Check the ball joints and the leading rod bolts/bushings. GD

The aircraft guys have been doing it for years - on the back of the passenger side head there is a cover with an o-ring beneath it. That's where the EJ distributor was designed to go. Apparently some other countries got carbed EJ's so the hole for the disty is already there. Pop the cover off and the escort disty is a close fit. GD

Nope - the feedback Hitachi is orignal. I suppose - if it were me I would be doing an SPFI swap - easy on the EA82's. Weber of SPFI, yeah. GD

Yes - any SPFI EA82. Tons and tons of them at our yards. Yeah - you can do that - would have to be like a 1/2" bolt and a hose clamp. You can cut the tube to the AAV off and weld the hole up if you really want to also. But the SPFI EGR is the easy $5 junk yard way. GD

Definitely. Theoretically - all that suff shouldn't impact mileage and performance. But being 25 years old means it generally isn't working, and is a detriment all around. If people could afford to replace this stuff then they might as well install a Weber.... so if I can help a few folks to get their Hitachi back working as it should then maybe I can keep a few more older cars on the road. GD

Yeah - we all have made the mistake. Also it's important to support the weight of the y-pipe and not let it pull on the studs - EVER. This is what strips the holes on the heads. That, and broken transmission exhaust mounts. GD

I also have direct experience with both. Used on Hitachi's and Weber's over many years. I run the ND on my Weber'd rigs because the rotation of the plug wires on the cap better clears the choke. I also JUST switched from a Hitachi to the ND on my hatch - while I rebuilt the Hitachi off it - no difference. In the FSM there is only ONE advance curve for all vacuum advance's used - it has a graph of the curve in relation to RPM. I can scan it if you like. I have lots of experience with lots of carbs. I've rebuilt, used, off-roaded, and streeted both distributors with both carbs, and can say that I've never found a single difference that could be attributed to the vacuum advance. Now there might be differences between years - I would need more FSM's to know that for sure. Also some ND distributors with electronic pickup's were used on later 80's EA71's and may have a different curve. As I said I've also found different spring rates on different Hitachi vac cans. The point is that the situation is not as clear cut as "2WD vs. 4WD" - it has a lot to do with year and model as well. It's not clear that all ND's are different from all Hitachi's. The data collection to ascertain the exact differences is taking me years because this stuff is 25 years old. You can disagree with hard evidence if you like, but a single experience does not indicate a trend. My experiences have been many, and varied, and I have not seen a consistent trend that is useful. GD

The advance curve of the two are identical. That's a wives tale that has been perpetuated for an obscenely long time now. Also there is NO vacuum advance at idle. The vacuum supply is ported and doesn't exist when the throttle is closed. So distributor differences with respect to advance curves cannot affect idle at all. Idle timing is static. Actually - I've found some evidence that different years/models (feedback vs. non) of the Hitachi have different spring rates for the vacuum advance pot. Right now I don't know the specifics of which models they came from as that's been lost to time and a long stay in my garage, but I have several examples awaiting testing in my shop - I'm going to map their exact advance curve. GD

I'm working on a write up of my experiences with the stock Hitachi carbs. Non-feedback of course, and mostly on the EA81 side - although most of the concepts are basically the same for the EA82 - things are just layed out slightly differently. So this '83 Hatch followed me home. We have been bonding lately. I have plans to install the SPFI on it of course, but for the benefit of the community I've decided to use all my knowledge and experience relating the stock Hitachi's in a last-ditch throw down to make it run as good as possible before ripping it off.... I'm getting close. There's a lot of confusion about the stock system. People find it overly complex, and that's not without merit as opinions go. It is of fairly high complexity. But if you really look at the design, it's all there to make the thing more "drivable" or for economy. There's very little that is there strictly for emmisions, although there are a few sub-systems which serve no other purpose. This will all turn into a write up on my own web hosting, but for now there's a few things I would like to disburse in order to get the information out there and be able to reference something in other posts, ect. The first step that's got to be done is to remove the roll-pin at the front of the carb base that prevents access to the idle mixture adjusting screw. As things are removed, or changed this is a critical adjustment that will come in handy for offseting the effects of changes made to hose routings, leaks that are fixed, and components that are removed. At each step of the process - as you complete a modification ect - you will want to readjust the idle speed, and idle mixture to a "lean best idle". You do this as a balancing act with both the mixture needle and "speed adjustment" throttle stop bolt. Make sure your timing is around 8 degrees at 750 RPM, and then adjust the speed screw till the speed settles at 750. You then adjust the mixture - screw the needle in to lean out the mixture till you get a slight stumble, and then back it out just till the enging runs smooth again - usually 1/4 turn out from slight stumble. You want to do this regularly as you make changes. Now that I've addressed the carb adjustments, I would like to bring your attention to the EGR valve, and it's partner in crime - the "anti-afterburn valve" (AAV). Below you can see the EGR valve, as well as the "hard line" that goes between the valve and the AAV. The second picture is of the AAV itself. This system is in place to prevent condensed fuel droplets on the inside of the intake manifold from being sucked into the engine under "rapid deceleration" conditions. Basically that means you don't need it. It doesn't buy you anything but added complexity, and a bunch of expensive, likely already failed components. In fact you can't even tell it's not there once it's removed. And check out the usual condition of the hose from the EGR to the hard line: That's a NASTY hose, and a vacuum leak that will cause problems. Removal is simple - remove the valve, and the EGR. Replace the EGR with one from an SPFI manifold or one from an older EA71/EA81 - 1980/1981 didn't have the AAV (which is another point indicating you don't need it - it didn't come on early models). Here's some shots of it removed. Note the ground connection on one of the AAV mounting studs - don't forget to replace the bolt to insure the ground wire is properly attached. And put a bolt in the vacuum line that ran to the AAV - I like to cut it short (about 1.5") and put a bolt in it so I don't have long vacuum lines running around that do nothing. Next up on the list of bad stuff we can toss is a little valve known as a "thermo-vacuum valve". This guy's job is to NOT allow manifold vacuum to reach two vacuum control valves (more on these in a minute) until the engine bay hits 81 degrees F. It's basically a different form of choke - but since the carb already has a choke - I see little value in this device. Maybe if you live in a VERY cold environment you would want to consider replaceing this. Anyway - in testing I found that the valve did in fact open - but at a much higher temp than it was supposed to. Here's the valve: It's located on top of the bracket that holds the hard line for that AAV we removed above. Here's it's hideout on the drivers side of the manifold - under the air cleaner: It controls vacuum to these two air control valves that control air mixing ports on the carb: You can remove the thermo-vacuum valve, and supply those two valves with plain old manifold vacuum all the time. Just run the manifold supply vacuum that went to the thermo-valve to a T (such as the one that supplied the AAV) and supply both of these air control valves with it. This lets the choke set the cold mixture, and the mixing ports have filtered air at all times. That's all I have for now - if anyone wants to give these two mods a try and give me some feedback as to how they worked for you that would be great. My experience has been good thus far - I plan to actually rebuild the carb, and modify the linkage for progressive throttle plate openeing as well as remove a few other uneccesary components. All of this will go to a write up layed out better than this of course. GD

Also - to partially answer the original question. 1. You have a feedback EA82 Hitachi. Bad juju in the worst way. Not only is it the EA82 Hitachi with the poorly designed choke spring, but it's jetted in such a way that it can't be run properly without the duty solenoids, and the ECU+sensors are a mess that really is cost prohibitive to repair. 2. There's stuff in there that doesn't work, and at this point never will again. The price of the manifold pressure sensor at the dealer is so outragous as to be silly. 3. Tuning it properly is a nightmare and a half. You actually need a tail-pipe sniffer according to the FSM to properly adjust the duty solenoids, etc. 4. Your carb is probably wore out as well - rebuilding it is possible, but since the rest of the stuff doesn't work properly.... what would that gain you? Dump the whole mess in the crapper and put on a Weber or SPFI. It's the only proper cure for the EA82 feedback. The EA81 system isn't quite as bad, but most people can't work with it either. Dump it. GD

You don't want to plug the ports on the carb - those are supposed to be open to the air cleaner via the air control vacuum valve. They are the air supply that regulates the mixture. Without those ports open, the carb will run rich as it thinks the engine bay temp is below the opening temp of the thermo-vacuum valve (EA81) or solenoid valve (EA82) that opens it. .....I'm not entirely sure if that valve is supposed to be open, or closed, or what - how it regulates airflow through the metering ports is something I have not as yet tested. What I can tell you is that it's supposed to have vacuum above 81 degrees F engine bay temp (EA81) or through some other magic mind reading all knowing oracle type device on the EA82's. I would not be tossing it in the crapper till I knew the proper airflow to the metering ports though - and plugging them is probably not the answer. On a feedback carb, those same ports are used to regulate mixture via the duty solenoid(s). But in the case of the feedback's, the jetting is different and the duty solenoids meter the air to bring the mixture within spec as judged by the ECU. GD

It's INTEGRATED. The piston is on a screw that is actuated by the parking brake lever. You can't do anything to it without dissasembling the whole mechanism. Like I said - huge, royal, pain in the a$$. GD

No problem. GD

You need special tools to get them back together due to the integrated parking brake mechanism. It's a royal pain in the arse. GD

Nope. 89 Legacy Turbo would be the first model/year for ABS in Japan. GD

Yes - very not good - also very not good installation procedure. You don't thread the studs through the holes in the y-pipe. You leave the studs IN the heads and install the y-pipe over them. If they came out when you removed the y-pipe, they should have been fixed or replaced and re-installed prior to ever fitting the y-pipe. GD

Order pads for an 84 wagon. GD

16 guage. You shouldn't have to replace them. Cut them back till you get good copper and put new ring terminals on. I suppose you can replace them if you really want to, but I've never seen a need for that. GD