GeneralDisorder

Those are increddibly rare - you likely will never see one. Obviously this car's interior is completely shot and bare to the elements - what do you suppose it would look like even if it did, by some miricle, still have that expensive, dealer-optional knob you so desire? Seriously - you'll have better luck buying a hunk of walnut and making one yourself - wouldn't even be that hard. GD

If you have a 4x4 long enough to stretch across the engine bay and a couple feet extra on each side, a chain, and a friend - you can pull the engine that way. It's only 160 lbs or so with everything attached to it. Bare long block is like 110 or so. GD

Pretty much all of it has to be detached - that's not really the point of the slide forward method - it's more for those folks that don't have access to hoists or cranes. I did it a couple times before I was better equipped, and I have done it at the junk yard when I needed flywheel's or used clutch parts GD

You actually could do this and it would work. The SPFI manifold bolts to the EA81T heads - you just wouldn't use the MPFI injectors (in the heads), and you would want to run some sort of management or piggyback as the SPFI ECU is known to have issues with positive manifold pressure situations. Also you would want a second injector as the stock injector won't supply enough fuel at WOT with a turbo. GD

EA81T has almost the same HP as the EA82 SPFI (5 HP less) - just drop in the EA82 SFPI instead and be done with it - EA82's will fit with only minor adjustments in the EA81 bay. It will have more power than a low-comp. EA81 with SPFI for sure. Better econemy and easier to find too. GD

What exactly are you refering to here? GD

Axles don't come out any easier by pulling the tranny. In fact they really should be pulled before you pull the tranny. "pulling" the tranny isn't generally the problem - it's the putting it back in part that's a pain in the neck. You can save the coolant in a clean bucket and reuse it - there's no reason to lose good coolant if you do it right. And yes - there is enough room to do the entire clutch if you pull the engine forward with the radiator removed. It's a man-handling job for sure - but it beats every other method if you haven't got a hoist. If you have a hoist, then it's a slam dunk - clutch is a two hour job at the most. GD

It's easier to pull the engine. You can also remove the radiator and pull the engine forward till there is enough room to slip the clutch into the gap. GD

Up - down - it matters for sure. But you realize they are adjustable beyond the adjusting bolt right? You can pull the trailing arms off and change their orientation with respect to the torsion bar itself - that, in combination with the adjusting bolt, makes them adjustable from low-rider-tires-tucked-in-the-fender, to pull-your-axles-apart... and everything inbetween. Somehow people haven't realized this I guess. GD

Both actually - I'll need 6 sensors of various types, and 6 controllers for what I'm doing. They can all be programmed for each type of input, but there is no way to switch sensor inputs as the wire to the sensor IS the sensor when you are talking thermocouples - if you run the sensor wire through a switch you have introduced a dissimilar metal into the equation and the sensor will not function properly. For similar reasons you can't attach additional types or quantities of sensors to the unit, and anyway you would have to reprogram the unit each time you wish to utilize a different type of input - it's not as simple as selecting the type of sensor you are running. You have to select the type, range, and the set calibration parameters in a precise order to repurpose it to a different usage. Basically the controller is so generic that it's not user friendly in that respect. IMO that's a good thing - others may dislike it - ultimately it makes the device more useful if you know how to use it. It's design is based on a process monitoring mentality where you are going to set it up for long term monitoring of specific metrics that are critical to either a manufacturing process or other machinery monitoring duty's. Besides - a panel with 6 red LED displays is soooo neat looking. I'm going to use stainless plate behind them. There's instructions on their web site - it's a PDF at the bottom of the product page. GD

If the axle stubs on an EA81 are lower than the diff stubs it's because of how the torsion bar is adjusted on that vehicle, or the torsion bar is simply broken. That is NOT how they are supposed to be from stock. stock EA81's have MORE ground clearance (and thus higher diff's) than a stock EA82. Ground clearance at the lowest setting of my Brat's torsion bar is 7.5" under the rear diff. GD

Just installed it on my 83 hatch. I wanted to see what a stock EA81 runs for EGT's, and wanted to feel out the way the gauge works. The thermocouple that comes with it doesn't have an exposed tip junction so the response time is a small bit slower than you would want for EGT - it's fast, but my feeling is that fastER is better in this case. They sell an exposed junction thermocouple that I'm going to order for that - actually two of them - one for each bank on my 22T. The thermocouple that it comes with however, is exclent for cylinder head temp - I've decided to run two additional monitors for the right/left cylinder head temp on my 22T as well. EA81 temps: Idle: 550 to 600 degrees F Cruise (55 to 60 MPH): 850 to 900 degrees F WOT: Highest I've recorded is 1125 degrees F It has a nifty max function that will store the maximum reading till you clear it (even after powered off). It also has an alarm functions that illuminates a blue LED on the unit, and closes an internal relay for sounding buzzers or activating cooling devices, etc. I'm definately sold on these. I'm getting 6 total - two for CHT, two for EGT, one for Coolant Temp, and one for Boost monitoring. Will make a nice little display out of them for somewhere in the console of my SS. GD

Those splices are usually pretty well protected with a rubber covering, insulating wrap, then tape - and then sometimes flex wrap, and more tape. You have to understand that they are now 20 years old and long past their life expectancy. They do sometimes cause problems for sure - but I understand the reasoning behind them, and it's more of an annoyance than anything. GD

It should prime for about 1.5 seconds after key-on regardless of tach signal. Of course that's not long enough to get much fuel flowing to the filter - but the pump should still run. incidentally - what was wrong with the distributor? Was it something the shop did? GD

The locking tabs come with a good gasket kit, so you might see them on some solid lifter engines as well if they were added later. Best way to tell hydro from solid is to look at the end of the pushrod itself - the solid's have aluminium pushrods with steel "caps" on either end which can be clearly seen with the valve cover removed. The hydro's have a solid steel pushrod with no cap. I'm not entirely sure about the way to tell small-valve vs. big valve heads apart - the best way is to measure the valves of course. The intake valves are 2mm larger on the big valve heads. The casting differences may also indicate small valve if there are two bolt-holes on the bottom of the head for 10mm bolts that bolt to the older block castings. Later solid lifter blocks (83/84) and all hydro blocks do not have the large boss on the block casting for those bolts. I don't have any small-valve engines at the moment so I can't get pictures of these differences. If someone wants to take pictures of the head/block mating area from under the vehicle on their 80-82 small valve engine then I could supply comparison pictures of the larger valve varieties. GD

I don't have the same lift as you guys, but it solved much of the problems I was having, yes. The breakage problem is usually a result of over-extending the axles when you get them in the air, or when you stop them on hard surfaces when they are spinning fast. The axle droop is too large and you can see many times where the cage & balls have impacted the wire retainer and walked right over it - usually splitting the cup in several places. GD

Yeah - I was bored that day I guess. Hope you guys find it useful. GD

http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/axle_rebuilding.html GD

I actually took some readings with my DMM's thermocouple today to double check the readings on the cluster of my Brat. I monitored the temp over several cycles of the radiator fan both on the radiator and on the thermostat housing. The thermostat housing cycled between about 170 and 200. The radiator (top, middle) was a bit lower on both ends at around 150 to 190. I think it's a mistake to run it as you were without the cap in place - that will not allow the system to pressurize properly and as a result your coolant would be approaching boiling point at very near the temp you measured at the 1/3 cylinder head. Boiling point of 50/50 is 223 degrees... with the cap in place it would be about 40 degrees higher than that. Assuming the system can build pressure properly - if you have leaks that may prevent the system from pressurizing. GD

+1 GD

They have their place. The SPFI system used in later years was excelent, reliable, and simple. The major problem with the EA82T lies with the heads, and some other ancillery components that non-turbo's tend to stress less. The heads for the NA's are different entirely, and at the power levels of the NA design the inherent problems nearly vanish. The biggest drawback of the EA82 NA is the timing belt setup itself. The belts usually don't last till the reccomended change interval. 50k or sometimes even less is common. They are a bit of an oddity in the timing belt universe, and as such can be problematic to the uninitiated. The carbs had serious drawbacks compared to earlier designs, and the feedback carbs were the worst/most complicated carb design Subaru ever put out (and the last). Generally the EA82 NA isn't a bad engine - it needs more maintenance to go the same number of miles with nearly the same HP as the EA81 though.... The only win is the SFPI, but you can put that on an EA81 with relatively little effort. An EA81 block will also bolt right in to the stock manifolds and mounts of an EA82 SPFI vehicle and only requires minor changes and a drive gear swap on the distributor. GD

"Dealing" with it involves fixing it a LOT, and replacing it a LOT. If that's he answer you are wishing for, then POOF - you get your wish. The "quirks" aren't "fixable" without redesigning major components. If you can do that or afford to pay someone to do it, then there's no reason to ask for help here - there's no one here that hasn't come to the conclusion that it's a waste of time and money.... the one die hard EA82 lover we had was banned because he was crazy (quite literally), and even were he here he couldn't help you due to his mental illness. The problem is that you are refusing to accept the best help we can give you. I understand that you don't like to hear it, but from experience - myself, and many others here have found that there is NO way to deal with the quirks of that engine within the scope of a reasonable budget, and with parts readily availible. What you are failing to understand is the years, and years of tinkering that the members of this board represent - if we had good answers for you, then you would have seen them already, and people wouldn't be doing the EJ swaps. Face reality - you (unknowingly I bet) made a poor choice with respect to the power-plant in your vehicle. The RX is a cool little body style, and as with a lot of cars, people often buy them based on looks without realizing what they have got themselves into. Just accept it and move on. Do more research next time - know what you are getting into. RX's and some other EA82T's change hands like most people change underwear - it's because of that engine - it drives people to the verge of insanity. GD

He's not a topic Nazi - he's a moderator, and it's his job around here. This is a post about EA series Subaru's - it's fine to use examples of other vehicles where applicable, but continue your side-conversations through PM or in off-topic. I don't care to hear about Mopars here either - I'll go to a Mopar forum for that. GD

I willingly changed it to that based on the sugestion of a prominent staff member . But yes - that's is basically correct. Just to clarify though - I can change it at any time. Sadly, I rather like it And as Zap pointed out - rump roast is not a swear word in the sense I'm using it. It's draws a correlation between myself and a certain stubborn animal.... I am not using it to insult anyone. It's also not censored by the board. GD

EMPI makes a direct replacement for the rubber "donut" in the steering shaft where it connects between the column and the rack. It's for VW bugs, and it's Urethane! Best of all it's like $8. I've used them on all my EA81's and they are awesome! It fits EXACTLY like stock, it's just Urethane instead of natural rubber. The original one's are usually perma-bent, soft, and cracked. Easy to replace too. Couple wrenches, and 20 minutes. Here's a link, but many places carry these: http://www.jusbugs.com/catalog/steering-coupler-urethane-p-946.html?osCsid=ae4e8189af210a34478e146245d19a52 GD