GeneralDisorder

All 4 speed drivelines are the same, except the hatchback. GD

You might get screwed on the unemployment - the whole government agency thing could come into play. They tend to protect each other so it depends on some factors beyond your control. The good part is that you do have a legitamate argument in their lack of oversight of the login/password situation. Since many people were using your login and password, they have no real proof that you did any of the "surfing" that they claim you did. That, in conjunction with the lack of warning should put enough doubt into the situation for you to get benefits without too much trouble - assuming the employment department isn't scratching the back of the police department. Play up the their lack of oversight, that many people were using your login/password out of a neccesity to perform their work, and that this was not addressed before the termination - even after you requested it to be. Couple that with the 8 simultaneous terminations and I think anyone investigating your claim would have to side with you on this. GD

Cheaper to get a used tranny if it really is toast. You would be looking at probably near $1000 to rebuild an AWD 4EAT - they are fairly high complexity and the labor is expensive. GD

In the scheme of things it is. To the average consumer it is. Yes there's still miles left in that engine, and probably more in the tranny - but 2/3's of it's life are through even to us "enthusiasts". Save the running gear - and any other decent parts for a transplant, but the body is not worth the effort - I wouldn't even fix that if it *wasn't* rusty. GD

High mileage, bent crumple zone in the uni-body, and body rot? You're kidding right? Pull the engine and tranny and push the rest off a cliff. EA82's are common as dirt, and about as cheap - sometimes cheaper.... good clean fill dirt is actually desireable to some GD

You shouldn't need a converter in the mid-pipe. Overkill. And yes - it does sound like you have a 2WD mid-pipe. They will not fit 4WD's due to the clearance with the driveshaft as you have found. GD

Yeah - power steering brackets can be found - that's not impossible. Ask in the wanted forum. GD

It's your breather tube system. This is a known issue that was addressed with a service bulletin in the early 90's - all the SPFI systems were retro-fitted with a smaller tube into the intake boot where the breather hoses T off. If you do a search for stuff related to SPFI, and smoking you'll find threads with pics detailing the differences. There's a kit availible at the dealer - it doesn't entirely eliminate the problem but it reduces it a lot. GD

German parts on a Japanese car? Sure - why not.... Probably real good stuff. I know all the German stuff I work on at work is excelent equipment - when we can get the right parts that is. GD

Just check out Interco's web site - if you go with the radials they should be adequately road-worthy and work well off-road. The Interco's are hard as nails - you definately won't wear them out real fast. GD

The carb base line is right in front - there's a tube that runs into the manifold right under the front of the carb base. It's not just the hoses that can fail - without coolant being changed regularly corrosion will eat the hose barbs away and cause leaks too. You can just block the lines from the heater core bypass tube and the block that run to the carb base, and block the carb base tube as well. A pressure tester to pressurize the cooling system while it's cold would help to find leaks, but the system on the EA81's is so simple you might as well spend the time just replacing all the stuff and have the peace of mind of knowing it's all new and R&R'd. GD

Have you tried flushing the core? Both ways? The line from the top of the water pump is the "in" and the other is the "out". Try flushing both ways. Any indication of the heater control valve leaking under the dash? You say you can smell it.... those valves occasionally fail, and I've see leaks in heater core's where the coolant would run down under the carpet and out through the floor pan drain holes - leaving no indication on the carpet itself that you could see. GD

You don't need a stabilizer - you need power steering. Beleive me - this will never happen again and you will LOVE it. Just get the pump, lines, cross-member, and rack from any EA81 with power steering. Will work a thousand times better than any stabilizer. And as far as asking who's done it - all the folks that have ever brought it up have ended up going with power once they had a taste of it. I for one will NEVER have a lifted subaru without it. GD

It's all or nothing for tires this small. Either you want traction and tires that will self-clean or you don't. If you don't go with an Interco Swamper of some flavor or at least something with a BFG M/T style tread, then you might as well get street tires for all the good they will do you. GD

Test/replace the radiator cap. It shouldn't be overflowing like that. I doubt this is a heater core issue - when the coolant is low on an EA81 there won't be any flow through the core. If you have so little coolant that it's overheating then there's not going to be any flow through the core at all. You need to find all your cooling system leaks. If it were me I would be pulling the intake manifold, addressing both the gaskets, the heater core bypass tube, heater core return line, both heater core hoses, the small hose to the carb base and the return to the block, all the steel nipples, and upper and lower radiator hoses. Do it all at once and replace the radiator cap and thermostat with new OEM parts. Same goes for the thermostat housing gasket and the intake manifold gaskets (careful with the bolts - 12 fl/lbs after chasing threads and use anti-sieze). THEN and only then can you rule out stuff other than the heater core, heat control valve, and radiator itself. EA81's dont generally require much, if any "burping". Their cooling systems are well designed, and filling them when you first start the engine, and then once again after a cooldown is almost always sufficient. GD

The heat gun will get it hot enough - but not fast enough. What you want to do is heat the pipe AROUND the O2 sensor - ideally using an oxy-torch - you need a LOT of heat, and you need it NOW. But a mapp gas hand held might work as well. You are trying to expand the threads so you can get the O2 out - if you heat the O2 it will expand and be more difficult to unthread. Heat the pipe - ice the sensor if you have to. It will come out. GD

Fight for it - you'll win. I've done it twice. They have one BIG thing going against them. They fired 8 people at the same time. This looks VERY bad to the unemployment department investigation. Make sure you point this out when you apply. It will look as if they were looking for a reason - and that's all you need is doubt. The unemployment people will stick it to them with a big stick. They are just trying to scare you into not applying at all. Tell the employment department business was slow, and they were looking for a reason to get rid of people. Make sure you mention a number of people were fired at once. They will have no choice but to give you benefits. Incidentally - what did you do? I guess I'm lucky - we have no internet at work and probably never will. Otherwise I would have a problem Also - by law they have to warn you first. The employment department doesn't look kindly on them for not "trying to work things out" before just handing you a pink slip. You'll get benefits no questions asked if they didn't warn you adequately. GD

Sure - but most places have a dealership. They are usually stocked items. GD

Everything I've read says it just hooks straight up to the ECU tach signal as you have it. Perhaps a ground issue is at work here. GD

An RS-RA gearset will fix them nicely - but the cost is rather unpolite. GD

Nope - EA81T's used the same axles as N/A EA81's. I have heard rumor that early 2WD legacy DOJ's will swap to the 2WD EA81 axle shafts - but I haven't seen definitive evidence to support that. There's probably some combination that would work, but a 2WD EA81 axle isn't exaclty my idea of reliable with the HP the EJ can put down - they are wimpy, small, pathetic things. EA82T axles are longer - as all EA82 axles are. They will not fit the EA81 body width. Also the outer joint seal lip is the wrong size. Yes - it's the turbo Porsche style clutch's that are messy in the EA81 body. If you just want an NA, then that shouldn't be difficult. It won't. Visit legacycentral.org for lots of stories of failed trannies. The turbo tranny is stronger, and they still grenade them without any trouble at all. Usually strips 1st or 2nd gear right out of them. GD

There is no machine shop required. The stubs are not really pressed in by any functional definition of the term. They are a loose friction fit. The bearings are held in by a ring nut on the back of the arm. You can replace the bearings without removing the arm from the car easily. You just pound out the stub (inward - once it's loose from the axle), remove the ring nut, and drift out the old bearings & spacer. Drift the new bearings in, slap on the ring nut and drive the stub through the bearings. It's actually quite easy and the time is more than worth it considering you are getting NEW bearings instead of used. And if the turbo's trailing arms don't have the sway bar links, then there's no real reason to use them other than cheap used bearings. GD

Replace the hub. The nut will work loose every time if you don't. Replace the hub and the washer. The washer is VERY critical. If it's not smooth and perfect you'll never get more than a 100 miles or so before it starts clunking again and wears out the hub splines. It's extreemely critical that you understand this - if you don't replace BOTH - you'll be doing this over and over again till you do it right. And grinding the washer smooth doesn't work - don't ask how I know all this GD

Take it apart and replace the seals. Shouldn't be too hard to do. You may have just had the cable mis-adjusted. They really don't fail all that often. GD

First, the 94 Imp didn't come with the EJ25. The EJ25 is a poor choice of engine anyway. EJ22 is what you would want if anything. Second, it's a BIG project to swap any EJ engine in. Do a search for EA to EJ conversion. It's not actually - it's just that your's is typical of a 25 year old EA81. It likely needs a lot of tuneup. Valve adjustment (unless it's an auto) should be priority #1. Then all the ignition components - verify smooth operation of the vacuum advance, clean the EGR, and address any throttle/carb issues it has. Check your oil pressure too - biggest killer of these engines is overheating, and rod bearings (respectively). Due to being all alumnium they rely on good oil circulation for part of their heat dissipation. Inspection/Replacement of the oil pump is a good idea every 100k miles - if it is within spec the seals still need replacing. The sending unit's are usually leaky and should be replaced as well for proper readings. An EJ swap is a poor choice to fix what amounts to a few tuneup issues. It's not the terribly slow car that a lot of people think it is - it's just that they have no real idea how to properly maintain them. GD