GeneralDisorder

Sadly she's not goin for it . But I'll be needing your head and cam services on my EJ22T soon enough. And an EA81 I'm building. So all is not lost. Good luck - someone will want this. GD

Yes. Just get an L with the phase II EJ22, and install the Outback struts and springs. The difference in power is only 18 HP. 142 for the 22, and 160 for the 25. You won't notice it all that much. The phase I EJ25 is a headache of an engine. You can't even be sure it's good with a test drive. There's a guy at my work that has one that overheats regularly about once a month due to coolant level. So you may drive it and it's fine - only to find out a month later you got taken. GD

Ah yes - now that I see the pics I see your's are 80-82 seats. That would explain it. 83+ have the notches and the release button. Glad you got it fixed, and I like the seat covers - wish I could find some like that for my hatch. GD

4EAT's computer requires input from the 4 wire turbo TPS switch. Something your SPFI can not provide. Could it be made to work? Probably. Is it cost/time effective to do so? No way. Swap it to a 5 speed - mileage, power, and sanity return almost immediately. GD

All EA series FI distributors are the same across similar MAF types. IE - Hot-Wire uses one type of distributor, and Flapper Door uses another. Turbo or Non-Turbo have nothing to do with it other than the wireing connector. They are all 100% interchangable except for the EA81T uses a slightly different housing and drive gear. GD

Hhhhmmmm. I seem to remember them having a release slider. But perhaps not all of them did. You might have to just pull harder. GD

Same button used to adjust them. Just pull straight up till they come off. GD

Be my guest. EA82's are a dime a dozen. Loyales are especially common, and especially low end. There's not a single part on them I want. You'll only be hurting yourself. GD

Step back for a moment - you are talking about spending $1,000+ on an 88!? Get a Legacy if you can afford that. Otherwise just reseal the engine you have. The EA82 is good to 300k if you maintain it. GD

What type of EA81 seat? I assume you mean the style with the adjustable head rests? Push the release button and pull them out. GD

1. But a cheap timing light. 2. Do a search for "TDC" - on here, on google, wherever. 3. Do more searches on timing, engine timing, timing adjustment, etc. 4. Feel good about helping yourself. GD

THIS THREAD IS A YEAR OLD GD

Reagan's work is impressive - his EJ/EA adaptor plates are beutiful. GD

That's nice and all, but EA81 land doesn't have timing belts. GD

Toyed!?! Seems?! Yes - everything is wrong with that. You need a timing light, and some clue as to what you are doing. You don't adjust timing by the stars or with tea leaves. GD

What's the cost for them to swap the cams? My GF has an '07 OBS with the SOHC 2.5. GD

It will most likely go away. Driving isn't neccesary - just wrap it up to 5,000 RPM or so. If it's going to stop, that will do it. Wait till it's warmed up though. GD

Kids are messy - that's just the nature of the beast. Little one's make messes and are clumsy with their stuff - especially in a car where their already poor hand-eye coordination is made worse by the movement of the vehicle. They can't see where you are going so can't prepare for the clover-leaf off-ramp you just took..... That said, I've found plenty of nasty stuff in vehicles: Spare keys - sometimes originals. Lots of change. Petrified french fries. Drugs. Used condoms. Mice, and their nesting. Etc. This is the new gen forum - you want to see nasty stuff pickup an early 80's soob with leaky windows that has been sitting outside somewhere for years without being driven. It's like a archaeological dig You find the worst stuff in the junk yard cars. And if you want to talk about spills - I had a full gallon of carb cleaner in the bed of the Brat one HOT summer day that tipped over and the lid popped off when I took a corner. Even though I was driving AWAY from the incident, my eyes watered up it was so powerful. Actually etched the plastic of the tail-light. I can't imagine what people behind me must have thought. It was AWEFUL. Really though, I deal with horrible things all day at work. I wrench on machinery of all kinds - pumps that either suck or blow everything you could imagine. Viking and Sihi pumps are one of the worst - tar, sewage, surgical suck, etc. Then there's the chemical duty pumps - I have one in the shop right now that pumps 600 gallons of Hydrochloric Acid Vapor per hour..... GD

They tick - it's typical of HG replacement. It's avoidable if you take a few precautions: 1. Use only OEM seals for the oil pump and the cam towers (metal reinforced). 2. Replace the lifters into the EXACT same locations where they came from. If they ticked before, have them rebuilt. 3. Crank the engine with all the plugs removed till the oil pressure guage registers. It can take several minutes. 4. Wait for any RTV to fully cure before starting the engine to avoid sucking any uncured RTV into the oiling system. It's just a matter of being very careful, and very precise with your work. Label everything you aren't sure of, and take pictures as you go. I have done multiple EA82 head gaskets on engines that never ticked before or after. Most recently I had an 86 with 240k on it - never a tick before or after HG replacement. GD

All Brat's were 4WD (in the US). All 4WD's had Hitachi distributors. Ergo - Your Brat came with a Hitachi distributor. They are interchangable, but it is advisable to use the corresponding coil. The ND coils drive the plugs at a higher voltage and the ND distributor is setup for this. Using an ND distributor with a Hitachi coil risks failure of the solid state ignitor inside the disty. ND coils generally have a blue top. Hitachi's are black. That's not 100% identification though. Aftermarket direct replacement's may not look the same. GD

I agree with Nipper, and will add that fuel may destroy the gauge. Depends on it's construction really. Fuel guages are chemical duty rated where an oxygen gauge would not be. Gasoline will quite possibly turn the insides into goo. GD

1. AWD 5 speeds will not transfer power to the rear if the front axle stubs have no traction. And if you lock the front stubs from moving you will burn up the VC. 2. Auto's can be modified to be RWD.... but it's an auto. You have to change some valving internally. 3. You could use an EA82 5 speed, or FT4WD (locked), but that's a lot of work for a Legacy. 4. It's all acedemic as none of these options will hold RWD power for long. The problem isn't the rear diff or axles (well - that's one problem), but rather the 4WD transfer gearset inside the transmission. You'll blow the transfer gears on any of the tranny's that can be modified to be RWD. In the end Subaru's were not designed with this in mind. You are MUCH better off getting a rig that was designed to be RWD from the start. GD

I don't think he's talking about the same thing. Sounds like he's refering to something with an in-tank pump vs. the EA series remote tank mounting. You would need a pump (carb pump will do) that fills a sealed surge tank (tall and skinny) with a return line at the top to expell excess fuel back to the tank. Then the fuel injection pump feeds from near the bottom on the side of the surge tank cylinder. There should be inline filers for the surge tank pump, and another filter for the FI pump. The injection pump return line then needs to return fuel back to near the top of the surge tank. If it returned it to the tank it would quickly empty the surge tank as the flow is very high. GD

I too prefer the European style embossed worm drive clamps. I get them from my local VW shop, but I would be interested in bulk suppliers if anyone knows of same. These guys: From this site: http://www.murraycorp.com/index.pl/embossed_style_hose_clamp GD

There's more than one type of EA82 rear axle. Some have DOJ's on both ends, and some have CV's on the outboard side. The CV's are not serviceable. The DOJ's are. GD