GeneralDisorder

The whole mechanism is a crap shoot. Best to yank the seat out and R&R everything you see. There's some plastic bushings and stuff in there, and the screws that hold the flip-forward spring mechanism to the upper's and lower's come loose. After bouncing around off-road in stock EA81 seats for a while, I've broken at least 3 or 4 drivers side rails. I usually break the tab off that anchors them to the floor. I welded the last one with a reinforcing strip, and only suceeded in bending the actual track grooves in the slider mechanism. The whole mess is..... a mess. Needs to be redone in thick stainless GD

EA82 I'm assuming? Two bolts - there's an o-ring on the shaft that keeps the PCV system sealed and keeps oil from wicking up the disty shaft. But that's it. Hammer On! GD

At least save what parts you can - glass for instance would be a good keeper. GD

Then why ask us? If you have searched you know what the answers will be. Building turbo engines is well documented throughout the universe. You'll run into the same problems that everyone else has - you'll be frustrated at the failures, and ultimately the whole shebang will end up in a scrap yard. Take a look at my join date - don't you suppose I've seen this a few times? And beleive me - there's folks that have tried that are at least as intelligent as you seem to be - probably a few that are more so. You asked - so that's the look into my crystal ball. Ask around after how often I'm wrong Yeah - it's a dead horse. But I beat on it anyway. When will I learn? GD

The EA82T's have severe limitations that prevent modding to any great extent: 1. Exhaust port near the coolant jacket is very thin. EGT must be maintained to extremely precise tollerances to prevent head cracking. 2. Head gasket design sucks. New/copper could be obtained at not-unreasonable prices but..... 3. The stock head "bolt" system is not sufficient to apply the neccesary torque to use cometic or copper gaskets etc. The cost of ARP studs or similar is outragous due to the thread size and pitch being a very strange/uncommon type. 4. To use either of these options effectively would require the block to be o-ringed. Also not cheap. 5. The head quench design limits compression - stock is only 7.7:1. Raising it will only put you into severe pre-det land. 6. 2 Valves per cylinder, and not very big at that. Poor flow. 7. Poor stock cooling system - both in terms of the glycol system, and the lack of an oil cooler, and poor oil pump performance. In order to fix any/all of these problems would require MUCH more money than a coventional WRX swap. It's a waste of time and energy to mess with the EA82T's. They have enough problems in stock form - modifying them will only make them worse. GD

EGR's open on "late ported vacuum" - starting at around 2000 RPM or higher. They do not open at idle. You have it all backwards. GD

There are NO BEARINGS on carbed distributors. The bushing must be BORED out. It's not something you can do without machine tools. Don't make me post pictures.... GD

Too much heat and cheap axle boots. Get some silicone boots if you really want to have them last. But your mixture settings are probably out of whack or something. GD

Subaru's don't use a ballast resistor in their hall-effect distributors. The module contains all the elements required for the electronics to function internally. A ballast resistor is needed on some older points/condensor style distributors because the coil is designed to operate at less than 12 volts, or EXACTLY 12 volts - as would be present durring cranking prior to the engine running (the resistor is bypassed for cranking). When the engine starts and the alternator pushes the system voltage higher than 12, the resistor keeps the voltage to the coil within it's operating range. So you neither have, nor require this device as the electronic ignition can operate at higher voltages, and thus spark power while cranking is not an issue. The coil is designed to handle a broader range of voltages. If the coil they are handing you claims it needs one then I wouldn't buy it. GD

All we are really concerned with for the ignition module is the primary resistance - that affects how much voltage the transistors in the module have to "switch" on and off. Lower resistance in the primary means more voltage to the module. Thus a Hitachi coil could harm an ND distributor, but it probably wouldn't cause damage the other way around (ND coil with Hitachi disty). Sadly, the "other way" isn't the one most people on here have gone. The 2WD advance myth has seen to that. The accell coil is better suited to the ND distributor than either the Hitachi or the MSD, but their quality of late is nothing short of ghastly. Others on here have been stranded due to failed accell coils. So while they won't hurt the module, they may leave you just as stranded. They moved their factory to Mexico a couple years ago and since then they have been crap. Same with the low end MSD's. The secondary coil resistance governs, to a large extent, how hot the spark will be. But it's a ratio of turns, not the resistance, that is the real specification that matters. Generally though, more turns equals higher resistance so if you don't have a ratio specification, then resistance is the next best thing. GD

Replace the o-ring on the dipstick, and R&R your PCV valve, hoses, and valve cover ports. GD

Change/clean the PCV valve, all the hoses, and the valve cover ports. GD

It can hurt, yes. The resistance of the MSD/Accel are lower in order to facilitate a larger, hotter spark. While this may be good/useful for ignition (which is still debatable, and highly depends on application, mixture, ect), it is causing more voltage to reach the ignition module inside the distributor. This will degrade the module faster - often pushing an older module over the edge. Nothing lasts forever, but as with all electronics, the hotter you run them, the shorter their lifespan. So there is always risk involved. Just as there is with running a ND distributor on a Hitachi coil - same situation if you reference the above specs I gave. The ND module was not designed to trigger the larger voltage that the Hitachi coil runs. GD

MSD coils are crap - made in mexico along with Accel. Get an OEM ND coil. Try rockauto.com or thepartsbin.com GD

Just a matter of using your ohmmeter on the terminals of the coil. You know the coil works, so it should be obvious from putting the leads across a few of the terminals which is which. A good, accurate Digital Multimeter (DMM) is essential to any automotive toolkit IMO. And not a cheap one either - those are good for paper weights. You need at least something with a range function - it greatly improves the usability of the DMM's - you can tell the meter what you are interested in and it will be able to disregard small changes that will confuse the readings on cheaper meters. GD

I change cars like I change underwear I currently own 3 EA81's. I've only ever had to change a cable once in all the EA81's I've ever owned with the exception of my lifted wagon (used an aftermarket the first time) - Because I use OEM cable's, and I do it right the first time. Done right, the cables should last at least the life of the clutch. They should also never snap on you because it should be pretty obvious they are stretching, or are difficult to press - this indicates that the cable is wearing through it's nylon sheath internally and wants replaceing. EA81 clutches should operate smoothly and with almost no effort. GD

Coil's are tested by checking the resistance of the primary and secondary windings. Per book specifications: ND coil: Primary: 1.13 - 1.38 Ohms Secondary: 10,795 - 14,605 Ohms Hitachi coil: Primary: 1.04 - 1.27 Ohms Secondary: 7,360 - 11,040 Ohms GD

Take the pipe out, media blast it, cut out the bad section and weld in a new peice of sheet metal. Send the thing out to be zinc coated. Don't fool with rubber hose - VW used rubber on some of their stuff and the filler nozzle will chew it up. Helped a buddy at work pull dozens of strands of rubber out of his fuel system from the filler nozzle ripping up the rubber filler neck each time it was inserted. GD

He's talking about the FI distributors - that won't work on the carbed units. The BUSHING is pressed in, and must be machined out and a new one installed. The FI's used pin bearings which are replaceable. GD

GREASE! You can't run these things dry forever:dead: Pull the drive gear off and yank the shaft out - the grease in them gets old, dry and crusty. It probably wouldn't have failed if you had R&R'd it before you stuck it in the car GD

Yeah - ~$50 to $75 is for a rebush. You send them the disty dissasembled. It's around $35 to rebuild vac advance cans. $100 plus shipping should cover both those jobs easily. The rest of the stuff usually just needs a good cleaning and a few dabs of grease. Total rebuild probably includes a new pickup, rebuilt advance, complete dissasembly, and complete reassembly. Still a deal at $245 for all you would be getting. And replacement rebuilt assembly's are generally twice that at least. Best bet if you want cheap is to get a used one. Any good machine shop could rebush the shaft - that's a no-brainer to a machinist. Philbin is just nice because they do things like the vacuum advance pots. GD

Google image search.... http://www.nuttybolts.com/catalog/images/PRO-Roll%20Pin.jpg GD

Most dealers can have clutch cables the next business day for you. Those are commonly stocked at the local warehouse level. You can also try www.subarupartsforyou.com, or some of the other dealerships that sell parts online. You don't even have to leave your chair anymore if you don't want to. You should also order the pin and the sping clip that attach the cable to the pedal. The pins are almost always shot, and you don't want to have to try and reuse that silly spring clip which, upon removal, will take flight somewhere into the neighbor's yard that's gaurded by a large mastiff... Both are cheap - I buy 5 of each at a time. GD

No - dealer only. Doesn't it say that in my write up!? Dealer should only be about $20. GD

Tranny may be shot - if it were the driveline it would be in all gears with 4WD engaged. Also the driveline shouldn't matter in 2WD. Ticking isn't good - means you have oil pressure issues, and it takes a big problem with the oil pressure to make the EA81 hydro's tick. Remove the oil pump and inspect carefully for damage. That's correct - it should be 8 - not 10, not 12. If it doesn't run correctly at 8 then you have the carb set wrong. GD