GeneralDisorder

McBrat makes them. GD

I beleive the original sources may be from an experimental aircraft site that last time I checked wasn't online anymore..... that's why it's only the engine sections. EA81 is/was very popular for that purpose, and explains the reason they don't need the rest of the FSM. GD

They work at any angle - they lock from speed of pull - as I said they get rusty inside. I spent a couple hours ressurecting a set I got from another board member. Orginally they came with little leatherette "Booties" with strings on the bottom that you tied up to prevent water entrance when not in use. Of course everyone lost them..... But your jump seat set isn't complete without the booties GD

Sounds like a bad rebuild - might have forgot the plastic check ball on the accelerator pump. That will cause the flat spot you describe. As for the idle, I would say the choke is set too light, and is pulling off to fast. The choke is something you have to adjust for your altitute, and temp conditions, so not neccesarily the job of the rebuilder. For what you paid for that rebuilt Hicrappy (I'm betting), you could get the fuel injection from an EA82..... or a Weber. More power, and easier to work on (in both cases). GD

Actually - those are standard military "marker" lights. Nearly every military (and thus the H1) vehicle has them. I've worked on one or two as well GD

They get rusty inside - take the rubber cover off and start lubeing. GD

I'm with Ed - I've replaced more ign. switches than I can even remember. Right at the pink connector the white wire will actually turn brown, and the pink plastic will melt. It's a mess. Aftermarket stereo and alarm installs often tap this wire for a fuse holder to get battery power for doo-dads. This causes even more problems as the wire gets chewed up and gets even hotter while in use. If the whole thing is wasted, you can hunt for one at a junk yard.... note that as far as the wires themselves go, an EA82 connector and wires will work - maybe even the switch itself, but I can't recall. Just chop the connector and about 6" of wire on either side of it. Solder and heat shrink it in rather than butt-connectors. I HATE butt connectors. They are soooo ugly and really don't do a decent job of contact with the wires. GD

If you are planning to use the long block for your carbed vehicle, that really won't work either - as mentioned you need single port heads to run the carb manifold, and the engine is 7.7:1 compression - the carb engine needs to be 9.0:1 compression. It will have no power, and use a suck load of gas even if you change the heads (and you mentioned that yours might be cracked. And have you investigated the possibility that the head gaskets are just blown? Carb EA82's almost never crack heads, and I've personally never seen or heard of a cracked block in any subaru. GD

yes GD

under the drivers side dash - black, square box - looks like a flasher. Probably mounted to something - look around the hood release cable area. GD

You have an EA81, so just always ask for parts for an 84. Non-staked in this case. The EA82's have the staked ones which are a real pain to replace. GD

No - 2WD's came with the EA81 in 80, but not the 4WD. The D/R didn't come out at all till 81, and so they had the single range, which had the top mount starter bell-housing so was coupled with the EA71 of past years. I imagine it to be some sort of house-cleaning operation to get rid of them, but yeah - 1980 is a weird year. GD

All 1980 model 4WD's came stock with the 1600cc EA71, and single range 4WD. There's my take: 1. Wrong engine, wrong tranny for off-road. Without the dual range, and at a whole 74 HP, the EA71 is both too weak, and the transmission lacks any sort of low gear. 2. 1980/81 have the externally regulated alternator - I hate those. 3. $800 is insanely high for something from 1980 that needs ANY type of work. Being as undesireable as the EA71+single range is, $100 would be generous indeed. 4. Sure - you can swap as much as you like - but $800 for a body you are going to trash, and you have to find an engine and tranny for it? Lotsa luck - hope you have a real thick wallet. 92 Loyale has the same problem - Single range transmission (pushbutton in the Loyale case, so more junk to break). It also has timing belts that have a tendancy to snap and leave you stranded at just the right time. And please - get it straight - these cars are NOT All Wheel Drive - they are Part Time 4WD like a truck. No center diff - 50/50 power split when in 4WD. GD

Frankly the EA82T isn't all that reliable. They blow head gaskets easily if you try anything fancy, and sometimes even if you don't. There is little to no aftermarket for them (in comparison to the EJ series), and the reliable HP you can get from one is not much more than they already had stock. The water jacket is very near to the exhuast ports and they like to crack in that area - that's one of the reasons there were three different generations of head castings - never did get it right tho. Look for an early 90's legacy Turbo - bulletproof EJ22G (Turbo), AWD 5 Speed. Lots of aftermarket, better suspension, and lots more wheel options stock. GD

That's an 83/84 GL 4WD..... In WA or OR not more than $100 - $200 if you are looking for a good deal. Any more would be extremely questionable with that much mileage. GD

They are easily replaceable on the EA81 shafts - get joints with zerks tho so you can grease them. I've done several. GD

Yeah - the senders are not going to work - unfortunately they have the wrong resistance values for any aftermarket guages that I know of. Plus you don't have an oil pressure sender anyway, and the voltmeter/ammeter is just wiring. That really only leaves the coolant temp sensor. A good parts store will be able to sell you an adaptor to 1/8" NPT, or you can make your own from a junk yard oil pressure sender - same thread for both the OPS, and the CTS, so grab two, cut the threaded end off and use your drill press to drill and tap the proper threads in the end of it. I tried this with a hand drill, but brass is so soft and "sticky" that it's difficult to do it and not hog the hole out a bit - if you do, use a vise, and drill from the bottom of the threads up as that will leave the exit hole pretty clean and round for the tap. GD

I know the feeling - I write a lot of books on here. In fact, out of my 5000+ posts, I think at least half or more are books. GD

No need to install a guage pod. You can just put the guage down in the change pocket of the console under the radio. It only matters that you HAVE it. I understand not wanting it to look rice, but it's more important to have the guage - even if it's not in your direct line of sight. You will be able to check it now and then. It's absolutely vital in the case of oil pressure that you have a reading for it - the idiot light will not come on till it's far too late - trust me. If you really can't stand the guages anywhere they can be seen, put them under the lid of the hand brake console. Or mount them IN the engine bay. You have lots of choices here, but you NEED the guages to verify that your efforts are having an effect, and to monitor important metrics not offered by the digi cluster. You'll kick yourself like I did if low oil pressure kills the rods. GD

Caleb is right - they aren't as bad as mine - mine was an EA81 version. Much worse. And he has a good point about checking the grounds. Still can't monitor oil pressure or put an honest number to the coolant temp. I don't like either of those. GD

The 4EAT is a Full Time 4WD (fancy term for AWD). It's actually just a legacy trans with an EA bell-housing. I've not personally seen a Full Time 4WD EA series that was not in a turbo car.... but it's possible. I don't know that they made a 2WD 4EAT for the EA series either.... I think they did for the Legacy, but I'm no expert in that department. GD

The digital dashes are utterly NOTORIOUS for incorrect readings. It's all about the solder connections on the printed circuit boards. Didn't know till your last thread you were running a digi. If there is only one peice of knowlege you take away from this thread it's this: The absolute BEST thing for a digi-dash is to add two aftermarket guages - one for coolant temp, and one for oil pressure. You'll have to plump the senders, but that's not hard. Even if you get $10 cheap wall-mart guages it's better than the digi-dash. I won't go into the whole story (if you search enough on oil pressure threads you'll run across it), but I blew an engine because I couldn't monitor the oil pressure with the digi I had. I've since replaced the engine and converted the car to analog (digi died due to alternator rectifier). When I replaced the engine I went with Autometer 2.25" guages for the water, oil, and voltage. I love em. GD

Get a 5 spd D/R, they are much better in the wear deparment. GD

The pump is made by Parut, and does not come with the paper gasket, or the block mating o-ring. You have to get either a complete engine gasket set to get those two, or the "oil pump seal kit" which is a seperate part number from the pump. The seal kits come with all the seals - 4 o-rings, and the paper gasket. If you are installing a new pump you discard (save for later, etc) the 3 unused o-rings. Incidentally, the dealer price is about $10 higher (wholesale price) than buying a Parut pump from a discount house. Same pump tho - last one I got I think was about $60 or $65 from a place here in town. At least with oil and water pumps, the OEM supplier makes them under their own name so you don't have to buy those from the dealer. We are not so lucky with other parts. GD

I'm aware of the 4EAT - briefly owned one - but I'm not aware of any difference in the starter's - can you be more specific? I think I have the starter from it around here, and I didn't notice any difference. The bell-housing's are the same, so mounting should be the same as well. Is the pinion gear different or something? At any rate, a 93 Loyale will have a 3AT, 5 MT pushbutton 4WD, or a 5MT 2WD, the only cars that got the 4EAT were Turbo 4WD models, and the Loyale only came in turbo for one year - 1990. So a 93 will not have this suspect transmission combination anyway. GD