GeneralDisorder

Gosh! you are totally right! I should have also said: USE THE SEARCH!!! GD

You might have some difficulty with the fuel maps in the ECU being pretty far off. The EA81 is close to the EA82 in design and displacement, but the older EA71 is getting to be far enough different that it may need a custom mega-squirt ECU to run it properly. Even an EA81 could benifit from this I think (I plan to try it), as the engine doesn't breathe quite as well as the EA82, and has lower compression besides. As for the manifold fitment - I would make adaptors for each head to move the intake ports out far enough to bolt the stock EA82 manifold on. The manifold would be tough to weld as coolant runs through it, and the coolant port would need to be sealed up... not sure how you would do that except with a pretty fancy weld where you notch out one side to weld the interior, and then weld the hole up that you welded the coolant runner through.... messy to say the least, and you would need someone with some fantasic TIG skills. Should be able to make some two peice adaptors from some AL plate pretty easily if you have a drill press ($39.99 from HF!) GD

Frankly, you will get zilch for HP. You will get a definate change in the torque curve, which most people claim is "more HP" but really isn't. Without changing the cam, there is nothing you can do to the EA81 for more HP - it will still make 74 HP at 4200 RPM. It will breathe a lot better at low RPM due to the progressive linkage of the Weber, and recurving the disty will help to bring the torque down lower. Great for off road. On road performance will benifit too - low end help you break the tires loose on pavement just as much as it gives you traction off road. You still won't break ~100 Mph with the car tho - peak HP will be virtually unchanged. For that - you need a cam, or forced induction. The emmissions system of an EA81 non-feedback hitachi equipped engine is entirely passive - in other words it uses no engine driven pumps or systems. Therefore it uses NO power at all. The emmissions is composed of three systems - EGR, Catalyst, and Evaporative. The EGR introduces intert gas into the combustion to reduce oxides of nitrogen by reducing combustion temps. It's really a catch 22 with this system - if it's operating properly, a cooler combustion chamber will have a more dense air charge, so will have MORE power. But at the same time the inert gas takes up some of the space normally occupied by fuel/air mixture, and so reduces power by just about as much. It does in some engines (not specifically EA81's) prevent problems associated with burnt valves - especially in engines counting on it's operation. The Catalyst system is composed of the converter in your exhaust, and subaru's own version of a "smog pump" that is a reed valve called the "air suction valve". The system is generally refered to as the AIS system (air injection system). The ASV provides fresh unburnt oxygen to the cat in order for it to work. This system is totally passive as it uses the exhaust pulse to open a reed valve and allow fresh oxygen to be pulled into the exhaust stream from scavenging action. The evap system is just a charcoal cannister used to trap wayward fuel vapor from the carb float bowl and fuel tank. There are a few thermo vac valves and purge solenoids to allow the engine to burn this vapor later once the engine is started and reaches operating temp. That's IT - there is nothing else. So please stop asking about removing this junk - it does not sap your HP already! Removed it if you like (I do), but UNDERSTAND what it does, and why, before you mess with it. And asking this question again will just piss me off - so please quit it! GD

EA81's and EA82 are different beasts - keep this in mind. The FP relay is nowhere near the seats on an EA82.... GD

Might be off a small nissan motor - they used a lot of Hitachi's as well. GD

Yeah - there usually is, but being they are V belts on your's, the torque of the bolt will hold it in place just fine. I've made them from the shank of a properly sized drill bit, but on my latest EA82 I just took the belts off a few weeks ago for the first time to find it's been lost prior to being owned by me. Just forget about it and the world will return to being right. GD

On a soob, 95% of the time that will ruin the boot. Plus there is the matter of the castle nut and having to replace the cotter pin... those are a consumable about 50% of the time they are taken off. GD

Great! That means it should be a slam dunk once the fuel pump is operating. I'll be interested to hear how you like the swap - I'm in the process of the same swap myself. Just finished up pinning the gear on the disty, and cutting off the second mounting tab. I'm going to do an EA81 specific write up of the process soon. GD

I agree - they are very nice, and put heli-coil to shame. My low cost solution is to tap the heads over to the next std size. The next size up (7/16" IIRC) taps in without drilling, and being that you have gone up a size in stud (or bolt - I generally use a bolt as they are easier to find), the clamping force and reliability go up by a good factor. It's worked well for me anyway - both on and off road. GD

Yes - you can drop the quarters in the pipe on either end. The valves will not operate if they are not exposed to the exhaust pulse. Are your reed valves vacuum operated? Some are, and most aren't. Have a look and block the vacuum line to the top of the reed valve if you have one. Did you check out the carb? Look down into the barrels and operate the throttle shafts to make sure they move smoothly. Might still be that dern silincer plastic.... GD

The gears are not your problem - does that passenger bank light up at higher RPM? Could be a vacuum leak on the passenger side of the intake manifold. Spray around with carb cleaner to find vac leaks, do a compression test to verify compression, and check for spark and plug condition. GD

What makes your think that? GD

Tire inflation, tire wear, and tire size. Check them all or just have 4 new tires installed - your trouble will magically dissapear . GD

Well - the US EA71 manifolds use the same carb pattern as the EA81... same weber adaptor for both engines. The JDM manifold very well may be different. I have one of those odd-ball carbs in the garage too - came from an EA71, but doesn't look like anything I've ever seen on a soob from the US. Maybe it's from a JDM too. I think your best bet is to aquire an EA71 manifold (or if this is a later EA71 JDM import, the EA81 manifold may fit). The EA71 had about three maybe four models produced over the years, and the later models are hard to come by so there is a lot of fuzy confusion about manifolds and interchagability with various years of the EA71 block. Just a thought - it's not a carter/weber single barrel is it? Those came on some EA81's.... maybe in japan they got them on the EA71 too?? If so, there is no weber adaptor plate for those.... GD

The oil pump drive sprocket is the same size as the crank sprocket, so it does turn at full engine speed, not half speed as the EA81 pump does. It's interesting to note that the EA81 pump does not last any longer because of this (both engines need new pumps about every 100k). The wear on the pump components has more correlation to the quality of the oil and hours of operation than it does to number of rotations or mileage. The engine heat bakes the o-rings, and the oil particulates eat the pump surfaces. GD

Personally I won't run an EA82 off-road - more because of the whole complexity of the timing system, and the bearings being exposed to water and silt. But there's been plenty of people on here that claim to have run them through mud and water without covers. You have to grasp just how fast they are spinning - 350 RPM even at idle. Much to fast for anything to "stick". The belt material itself is pretty tough - being nylon impregnated rubber. Try to tear one in half by hand sometime to see what I mean. Pound on one with a hammer if you like - no, I think rocks are not going to snap one. GD

Interesting - sounds like maybe a fuel delivery issue. Sounds like the ECU is trying to fire, but the fuel just isn't there. I'm pretty sure that if the ECU was bad or the disty was bad you would have no spark at all. Check the fuel pressure going to the injector perhaps? Do you have the carb pump still installed and using the SPFI pump under the hood or the SPFI pump under the car in the stock pump's location? Maybe double check the fuel line connections to be sure the supply isn't connected to the return or something simple like that. Also - It sounds like your fuel pump is geting power while cranking but maybe not when the key returns to the run position. So maybe a wireing issue but I imagine you have checked that already with Snowman... I think dribbling some gas down the throat to see if it will run for a few on it's own is a good idea. Might at least narrow your search down to fuel system.... GD

And this has what to do with this thread? GD

Oh? Proof? Lots have done it - no bad reports. Come up with one... if you can. Also very popular in the VW community. GD

Should pass fine without it - I've run through both ways, and the cruise emmissions dropped a tiny bit with it, but were well under without it. Idle emmissions were the same. Block it by unscrewing the pump and putting a quarter in the inlet pipe and screwing it back together. On any engine I have out of the car, I remove them, cut the pipe and use the end of the pipe as a plug, I generally select a washer as filler - weld around the outside and fill the hole in the middle of the washer with weld too. Or on the EA82 I just cut the end off the flange and weld the hole closed. Bolt it back to the head. GD

I totally understand what you mean - I've replaced many a ball joint on these cars as well. That certainly is a valid way to do it, and if I was going to sugest a generic method that would work on most cars yours would be it. Perfectly valid method. Now - I do not choose that method in the specific Subaru case for a couple reasons. 1 - the top of the ball joint where the pinch bolt is located in the knuckle is more complicated than just a simple bolt removal. you have to remove the bolt, which because of the split "pinch" style joint is exposed to water and elements and likes to snap right off just below the head. Now you are really hating life. If it doesn't snap and all goes well it's a sure bet that the top of the ball joint is lodged in the knuckle with a bunch of rust and other nasty crud. To dislodge this it's usually a pentrating oil, hammering operation with a chisel or screwdriver lodged in the split joint to loosen it. Now you have to pry it out and downward, and there is no good place to use a prybar on it - the edge of the knuckle is small, and there is very little purchase on it, plus nothing really to lever downward on except the lower control arm. PITA. 2. Now that you hopefully have the ball joint loose from the knuckle you have to lever the control arm downward and hold it there or remove the leading rod and swaybar link to allow it to drop out of the way. 3. Getting it back together sucks - especially if the ball joint is new as they are very stiff and do not like to line up. Then you have to beat the hell out of them to get them back in the knuckle (again with the chisel or screwdriver jammed in the pinch slot to keep it open). So why not save all the trouble and remove the single, simple bolt on the inner control arm and the swaybar link letting the whole assembly complete with the control arm swing out? Great thing about this bolt joint is that if the vehicle has been driven in the last year that joing will move freely and have no corrosion - moss on a rolling stone and all that hoopla. Never had one snap off either, and if it did, it's easily replaced, and will just slide out as it slides in from either direction.... simple, simple. I really have tried them all - even taking the strut top bolts loose - but that's the same problem as the ball joint - you have to basically stand on the thing to get enough room to pull the axle off the tranny - you have to overpower the leading rod bushing and the sway bar.... I can't even count how many subaru axles I've done anymore - hell I don't even remember how many times I've done it to just one car, and I've had over 15 in the last 5 years. I've done a few other random brands as well - toyota, audi, and honda, and one Hyundia (which I'm betting is really a mitsu...), and the best method varies for each I'm sure. Just messing with the ball joint is more difficult and very often more time consuming than the control arm bolt. GD

That's very strange - I've never heard of a clutch problem that went away once the engine warms... not sure what to tell you. Have you checked the cable adjustment? Perhaps it's too tight, and once the clutch pack and flywheel heat up they expand and take up the slack. I'm just shooting blind here. GD

Florida? Your local dealer won't touch an EA82 most likely. And their diagnosis will be "Over here we have a very nice Legacy - what will it take to get you into that today?" GD

SVX is a different beast - if you want the LSD you'll need to locate one from a Full Time 4WD 5 speed turbo - 88 or 89. GD

People are funnay - it's amazing how many people will push a car when they could easily just crank the starter in first gear.... everyone knows this trick because they have all tried to start the car in gear, and know that the starter will move the whole car - they just can't think outside the box enough to figure it out when they really need it. Same with the cable - the car isn't broken and they could save themselves a nasty tow bill by just driving it. It's not even hard - upshifts are normal, and downshifts you just have to rev the engine and then apply a little pressure to the gear you want and when the revs match it will drop in. With a fully syncro equipped trans, it's doesn't even grind. GD