GeneralDisorder

DOH! Yeah - my bad - the feedback version does NOT control the choke - the ECU does. Sorry. GD

Improperly routed vacuum lines, bad tire pressure, incorrectly set choke, etc, etc. There's a ton of things that will do it. Want awesome mileage? Put 60 PSI in each tire, and run ATF in your manual tranny. Mostly make sure the mechanic hooked up the carb correctly - those Hitachi's can be nasty. Vacuum advance for the disty, etc. GD

Usually not - but sometimes, with some calipers it helps a lot. Especially with some non-subaru ones I've encountered. GD

Not a whole lot smaller?!? Perhaps my picture doesn't do it justice - was trying for a close up of the setup. It's about 2" shorter than the stock sender. Really quite small - you can't even see it unless you actually look up under the radiator support. I was also doing this to get that silly wire out of the way of brush and the belts. I hate the way it's routed down the front of the engine. The other port - for the idiot light - is on the block itself for the EA81, and at least in my case has proven impossible to remove. I gave up. I would have to pull the engine back out to use a vice grip on it. I also don't think it would supply enough pressure due to it's location, but I haven't tested that theory. At any rate, the setup I used is rugged, and with the skid plate in place you would have to demolish your radiator and oil pan before anything got to that little fitting. Oh - and from experience I can tell you that once the dummy light actually comes on - you have wasted the engine anyway. It's basically a "Replace Engine" light. One reason I HATE the DL and Digi-dash setups. GD

Most likely - can you see any movement in the castle nut? If not, then the wheel bearings are totally gone. They will make some pretty loud humming noises, and grinding at lower speeds. I've run on bad wheel bearings for quite a while before, but if they are dry they will fail quick. Mine were shot, but not dry of grease so they kept on trucking for a few thousand till I had a chance to replace them. If you can move the wheel a LOT then stop driving it - if they totally fail then you are in BIG trouble. GD

Yeah - that should be fine. Best to keep the crank-case using the PCV as this way any blow-by will get burnt in the intake. GD

Solution - STOP USING ADDITIVES. Fix the problems. Hate to yell, but if they worked, Subaru would tell you to use them or the oil companies would have already included them in the oil. There is no silver bullet for this stuff - lifter ticking is usually a result of bad oil pressure. MMO is just a cleanser/degreaser, which is already present in your oil in lesser quantities. Flushing the engine with MMO is not bad - I just wouldn't leave it in there. If you have leaks - replace the seals or buy kitty litter. They are hard and no amount of additives will bring back hard, crusty rubber. The sealing junk you used probable sealed up the lifters just as much as it sealed up the gaskets - now you have a mess. No leaks, but oil can't get to the lifters to inflate them. Flush the engine out a couple times with kerosene or MMO, etc. Run a whole case of cheap, cheap oil through it - replace it every couple hundred and the filter too. If the lifters tick, repalce the oil pump seals, and cam tower seals, and possibly the whole oil pump (I replace the whole pump - they DO go bad). If that doesn't stop the ticking, likely the lifters are worn from lack of oil flow - have to replace them too. There's a place that can rebuild them - someone posted a link to them. Pretty reasonable too. GD

Yeah - check that castle nut too. If that's loose you'll need to replace the cone washer under it, and if the splines in the hub are shot you'll have to replace the hub, and most likely the axle too in order to prevent the problem from re-occuring. GD

Look under and from the side - you will be able to see the ball joint at the bottom of the control arm - the knuckle will move but the control arm will not. If the knuckle is not moving, then it's almost certainly wheel bearings. GD

Valve areas are not directly connected to the crank-case in such a way that pressure will equalize (without blowing seals), so yes you need the PCV. Run all three to the air filter and you should be good. As long as the breathers get filtered air you should be fine. GD

Yes - or I wouldn't have explicitly told you to leave it OFF . It effectively clamps the rotor to the knuckle - rotor attaches to hub, hub is splined and bolted to axle, axle is fitted through wheel bearings.... see? GD

Yes - unlike EA82's , the Brat has a single peice driveline, and you need it in place to hold the tranny oil in. Find another driveline. GD

Jack it up with the rear wheels chocked - leave the parking brake OFF, and try to move the wheel. Wheel bearings, ball joints, or tie rod ends are your culprits for it pulling, but the noise leads me to suspect the wheel bearings. GD

Ok - here's some pics: The adaptor I got with my Autometer guage set, but you can make one by cutting the end off a sender from the junk yard (EA81 or EA82 - they are the same) drilling and tapping it with a 10x1.0 tap. Use a vice tho, as brass isn't fun to drill through. The right angle I got from home depot - it's just a standard 1/8" NPT Brass fitting - about $1. The braided line I got from summit racing: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2DG2960&N=400304+115&autoview=sku , and then it's just a matter of putting whatever sender you like on the end of the line. I used a hose clamp screwed to the fender with a sheet metal screw, and I used a bit of clean (well... it was ) shop rag to cusion it against the screw head, and clamp. Works great. GD

The two types of control units are for feedback(blue) vs. non-feedback(black). They are functionally equivelent, but the feedback carb version also controls choke power. GD

Sure - let me get pics of my setup. Back in a few GD

Use a 2' bit of heater core hose up to your ear to pinpoint the location of the noise. Could be the water pump, belt tensioners, alternator, etc. Find it quick before it fails. GD

If you do mount to the jacking plate note that it will get smashed up if you leave it stock. Mine was pretty radically bent. I worked it back into shape, and added gussets on the inside of it to keep it from bending again. So far so good. Lower radiator support is a bad option - they get smashed pretty easy. Mine just keeps getting flatter. I'm going with the bumper mount for the front. It needs serious improvement tho. Bracing back into the framerail, and maybe to the firewall. GD

You are going to have trouble with the inner DOJ's on the axles - the RX tranny is 25 spline, while the EA81 axles are 23 spline. They never made a 25 spline EA81 axle - custom axle are possible with the right parts from the right years. Now if you swap the entire suspension you could use the RX axles, but you will have to do some fab work to get it all in place. You'll have to move the lower control arm mount on the cross-member, or make custom lower control arms. The EA81 control arms are too short, and are not compatible with the EA82 ball joint. The struts will be interesting too as the strut top is different - two bolts on the EA81 and three on the EA82... Have to be very careful with your calculations and fab work so as to keep the camber accurate. It can be done tho. Might as well go to 5 lug while you are at it. GD

I don't mind lending a hand - but I don't have time to do the whole job for you. If you need a tool or advice that's no trouble at all. As for the timing belts - there is no tensioner tool required, and the timing procedure is easy, and you can't really mess it up since the engine is non-interferance. If you get it wrong, you just try again. GREENSUBIE - you have a completely different engine and tranny. Your EA81 is much easier. GD

EA81 and Justy are the same tho GD

If the engine isn't in the car - drill a hole in the front of the pump and thread a bolt in there - use a slide hammer on it. GD

You have the carter/weber or you have the DGV weber? Anyway - if you want the light gone, remove the ECU. Depending on the original carb setup, the ECU may control the FPCU - hard to say for sure. Just rewire the pump. GD

If that doesn't work - pull the covers off the column, and use a chisel to turn out the two bolts that hold the ignition mechanism in place. Then you can start it with a screwdriver using the ignition swtich. Take the lock mechnism to a smith and have it redone. GD

Heh - you have the feedback carb. Sux don't it? Pull the kick panel off and the feedback computer will blink the error codes to you. Post them here and we can tell you the codes - or get a haynes manual and it will have them listed. Lets see - I bet you get "coolant temp sensor" and "O2 sensor" and probably a few more - fuel pump control is routed through the ECU also . Feedback is teh suck. Wash your hands of it and get a Weber. Seriously. I've had two of them - EA81, and EA82. Of the two the EA82 was worse, but neither really ever ran correctly. Fixing all the sensors and vacuum switches will end up costing you more than a Weber, and you'll get better mileage and power from the weber. Hell - swapping to the EA82 SPFI would be less of a headache, and better mileage too. GD