GeneralDisorder

Look at alternator. Look at Subaru. Determine if you can make it fit. Isn't your engine lunch?? GD

I think the difference was the 81/82 only (81 GL - DL was 1600). The small intake valve engines had different cams than the large valve - and possibly for the Brat vs. the rest. Personally I don't think so tho. After 82 the large valve heads were all the same - except 83/84 automatics which got the hydro valve train. The 85+ were all hydro - same cam Brat vs. Hatch. At any rate - the performace specs were the same for all - and I've never seen any part numbers to verify this "wives tale". It's very much like the 2WD distributor BS - there is ONE advance curve - for all models. Your seat of the pants dyno is out of adjustment guys. One plant builds engines - another assembles cars - there is no reason to believe they would change something like an engine internal for one body style over another. It just doesn't make sense. All the 4WD gearings are the same as well. The Brat "feels" more powerfull at low speed because of it's lighter weight. *edit*: Here's the part number for 82 - 415107100 - listed same for all EA81's. McBrat say his 84 manual shows the same info... I really don't know how this rumor got started. Weird. GD

20 MPG with 27" tires is about normal. Sorry dude. My wagon - same engine, same carb went from 32 MPG with 175's and 2WD 5 spd with 3.7 diff, to 20-22 MPG with 215/75R15's (28") and 4WD with 3.9 diffs. Swampers are wider than my MT's, and being bias-ply your mileage will be teh suck. GD

Harbor Freight sells some for like $10. That's what I would get if I didn't plan to use it much. Works just as well as any other. Just don't drop them - the solder joints inside the guage are weak. GD

Actually - that's pretty accurate - FPCU is bolted to one of the hood release cable bolts under the driver kick panel. GD

For that matter - EA71's came in both gens.... and being that his problems isn't really EA71 specific it's probably actually better here where all us EA81 types will see the post. But I'm splitting hairs... GD

This really needs to be stickied... The fuel pump runs from the FPCU (Fuel Pump Control Unit). If the engine is NOT running, then the fuel pump is shut down to prevent it from running after a serious accident and spilling fuel all over the flamable scene. Just because you have no power at the fuel pump does not mean it isn't working exactly as it should. It runs for a few seconds when you turn the ign. on, and runs while cranking but stops if the engine doesn't catch. Make sure you have spark and air, etc. GD

Here in the states we didn't get WRX's in 96, so you are on your own there. As for the transmission - IIRC, the 96 JDM WRX is around 280 HP - too much for the EA82 transmission. You'll want the WRX transmission. GD

No - the spline count on the front axles is different, and likely it's a 1.2:1 low gear rather than a 1.5:1 GD

Just leave the covers off - if you can't remove the cam pulley's then just leave the rear covers on. They are not hard to remove tho. Just three bolts. You will have to force the cam pulleys to move - they are under the pressure of the valve springs, and there's no getting around it. You'll have to force them. Remove both belts. Line up the middle of the three marks. Put the drivers side cam pulley with it's marking hole pointing straight up, and the passenger pointing straight down. Put both belts on. Button it up and you're done. On the tensioners - just remove the bolt from the adjusting slot - push the tensioner down till you can put the belt on. GD

Did you check the oil for coolant contamination? Sounds like a classic headgasket failure to me. Started to overheat, and that was the "pinging" noise that you described as slightly metallic. It will go away when you let off the gas since there is nothing to burn. Other option would be a broken rod - but since it turns over without any noise I would think that unlikely. GD

Weber 32/36 DGEV Kit # K730 GD

EA81 - solid lifter - small intake valves . Hitachi or Carter/Weber carb. There is a FPCU (fuel pump control unit) above the hood release latch. It will not allow the fuel pump to run unless the engine is running. Just because the fuel pump does not run with the key in the ON position does not mean you have a fuel pump problem. It should cycle for a few seconds each time you turn the key to ON, and will run with the crank circuit as well. That said, it's under the car near the tank on a little shelf. GD

Yes - both. The crank circuit is very simple - start with that. I would guess that you are not getting power to the starter solenoid (on top of the starter), said solenoid is bad, or the BIG wire to the solenoid is not connected or broken. I had a situation where the main positive to the starter was almost completely rotted through, and wasn't enough juice to turn it. Probably not your problem, but check it all out. Check the obvious stuff first - hotwire the starter with a wire directly from the battery to the solenoid spade terminal. That will at least tell you if the starter and it's solenoid are good. Since you say that a push start works fine - your crank circuit is the culprit. Your ignition is ON, but you are unable to crank the engine for starting without outside influence. Simple problem - fix the crank circuit and you are on your way. GD

Yeah - and beleive it or not I've pulled engines by standing on the strut towers, and lifting the thing out by myself. The first time I did this I balanced it on the upper radiator support and then climbed down and lowered it to the ground. Second time I got smart and used two old matresses and threw the engine out. I've installed an EA81 by myself with no lifting aparatus too - that was worse. Had to balance it in the radiator support and lower it down onto the cross member. Then lift it back up to the tranny with a jack under the pan.... I would not recommend either of these procedures - very dangerous, and probably not good for your back. Definately wouldn't try it with an EA82 either - EA81 was bad enough. As for doing it in the car - not really all that bad if you have ratcheting wrenches. I pretty much always do them in the car personally. But if you haven't done it before pulling the engine can make it less of a headache. Give me a call - 503-880-4084 GD

Probably valves. Do a search for wet/dry compression test. Or "Leakdown test". GD

It very much sounds like you broke a ring (the smoke), and probably broke or seriously damaged the rod on that cylinder as well (the hammers). Does it still have fluids? Doesn't matter much at this point - your supposition that the engine is lunch is well..... correct. Time for a new one. Pull the engine - tear off the heads and see what the damage is. Likely the cylinder(s?) is scored. It isn't worth rebuilding at that point. GD

If you are going to the trouble, you might as well do all the bearings and rings. You'll need a complete gasket set, etc. You are looking at right around $200 in just parts. And it would be a waste to bother leaving the engine stock - add a cam, and mill the heads. And of course you will want a valve job too..... Simple answer - not worth it - get another engine. Unless like me you have a desire for HP, and a dislike of timing belts for off-road. Plus - how do you know it's rings? Have you done a compression check? GD

Check the ignition switch connector under the dash - they get burned - probably want to replace the whole switch with a good one, and possibly grab the harness connector from the junk yard too - solder it into the harness. Clean all the grounds - including the one behind the drivers side dash speaker, the one on the passenger intake manifold bolt, the one from the negative battery cable to the frame, the one for the radiator, the one from the transmission housing, and the small one near the drivers side firewall. GD

Actual numbers vary, and are not important. What is important is that the cylinders be within 10-15% of each other. Numbers can vary - I've seen as low as 125, and as high as 220. I would say that 80-100 would be the low end. GD

I have a picker you are welcome to borrow - I'm in West Linn. It's the folding 2 ton type, and should fit in a wagon. Fits fine in my Brat. GD

Depends - you want it for parts? Basically the owner probably isn't comming back for it - if it sits more than a few days (on the side of the road) likely it's abandoned. Now towing it yourself isn't on the right side of the law - unless you own a towing company and it's reported to you by the local government as towable. Here's the difficulty - the tow company will tow it and then attempt to stick the owner with a huge tow bill that they likely will never pay. The car will then be auctioned or sold to a yard to cover *some* of the tow bill.... so in one respect you may be doing the owner a favor if you get it yourself - but that's a risk of course. If it was me - I would let it sit. Maybe stop and pull some parts off it - only if it sits for a long time tho, and is obviously abandoned. Especially if the local kids have broken the windows, etc. Then I say pull whatever you can and leave the hulk for the tow company. You can't use the body anyway as you won't have a title and can't ever get one. One more thing - if you do pull parts - do it during the day, and in plain view. If you try to be slick and covert people will suspect foul deeds. If you look like you are working on a broken car no one will bother you. They may even offer to help. GD

First - do you have an accelerator return spring attached? And how is your cable mounted? Pictures for me would be good. Is this weber new or off something else? Sounds like it needs a rebuild and the jets checked to make sure it's jetted for a soob. GD

Yeah - Scrap decided he did want to go after all, and we were both going to get out there, but both located some things that had to be fixed before we could see mud again. Both my front ball-joints were worse than shot, and I had a little engine/tranny mount issue that was my own doing . It just wasn't in the cards for me this time around - the digi-dash blowing out, and followed closely by the rod going through the block, then the new engine destroying it's clutch pressure plate (release bearing locked up) has really set me back a good 12 months of wheeling. It's all fixed now, even with a couple new modifications, and we'll be heading out probably this weekend - and the next. We should all meet up. I'll look for your new meet thread. GD

Does not need to be two step - Center line of the three on the flywheel - drivers side cam mark up - passenger side down. Throw the belts on. Adjust tension and you are done. Also - getting the belts on is much easier if you remove the bolt from the slot in the tensioner and push them down farther till the belt goes on easily. GD