GeneralDisorder

There is an easier way - leave all the pressure plate bolts loose. Loose enough that the disc slides easily with your finger. Install engine as normal - disc will slide onto tranny input shaft and center itself. Tighten each of the pressure plate bolts through the starter hole. I've done all of my engine installs this way for over two years now. Works great. One less silly tool to have around. Don't think I even have a subaru alignment tool anymore. GD

These are decent come-alongs for the price - 2 ton rating: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2DW4004DB&N=115&autoview=sku And for a winch, here's a couple low cost options: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MMK%2D76%2D50115&N=400059+115&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MMK%2D76%2D50112&N=400059+115&autoview=sku GD

You have to realize that if you dig around in the wiring harness you'll find tons of connectors with no apparent purpose. They didn't make a different custom harness for each trim package, so the white connector is likely for an option you don't have. With the cruise control, you may need to adjust the clutch and brake pedal cut-out switches. The clutch gets out of adjustment and the switch won't let you turn on the cruise system. GD

Flywheel only mounts one way - turn it till the holes line up. GD

Well - anytime the engine and transmission are seperated the clutch is exposed. And the book says to pull the engine because it's what the Author prefers. Some of us prefer to pull the engine, other's prefer to pull the transmission. Personally I don't pull either, I just lift the engine far enough to pull it forward to where the radiator would be (I remove it first), and replace the clutch with both in the car. Since he was doing the transmission, the clutch would have been a natural thing to check, and him saying he had trouble mounting the transmission.... makes me thing he probably had the clutch apart at some point if for no other reason than just to swear at it and maybe let it know who's boss. The pegs on the flywheel (very impressed you noticed those by the way) - they are spaced evenly and there are three (maybe four - can't recall) ways the flywheel can be turned and line up with the pegs. Sound like he doesn't have a lot of experience mounting subaru transmissions. They are naughty critters sometimes, and there are tricks to getting the install to go smooth. I can usually mount one in 15 minutes or less with one other person to help me. I have done it my myself, but it's sticky without a transmission jack. If your mechanic has a lift and a transmission jack like he should in a proper shop it should be no trouble at all. I don't have those luxuries, and have done many without trouble. The hill-holder is not difficult at all to attach and adjust - in fact it can be done without any tools at all. Fingers only. If your shift linkage didn't rattle before the swap, then the bushings should be the same as the ones you had before.... and that book is mostly talking about the older 4 speed transmission which had a snap-on nylon bushing on the bottom of the main shift rod. They did wear out and rattle. The 5 speed's don't really do that. Mine has 215k on it and it's loose, but no rattle or vibration. GD

Yeah - that's got to be one of the best subaru tricks ever. We need an all-time greatest subaru cheap fixes list. That would be up there near the top I think. GD

Well - mains are cheap enough, but you'll have to split the case to do them... and it's a slippery slope let me tell you. Once you have it torn down, you'll say - gee I should do the rods, and install new chrome rings, and a valve job - mill the heads - replace every gasket in the engine. Oh yeah - it's a $500 job in parts. I'm sure it would be worth it - you'll have a real nice engine on your hands. Could get some nice Delta cams for it, and milling the heads will up the compression just a bit plus compensate for the ground cams. 100 HP is not unatainable at all. I'm not sure what a complete EJ22 swap would cost, but a decent engine will probably run about $300, and then you need the adaptor and flywheel - new clutch setup, etc. It's probably close to a wash, but the EJ22 gives you a bit more power. A lot more wiring involved. GD

Well - I try to help. Some of this Subaru specific knowledge is unknown to generic mechanics, and even to a lot of people here. If the flywheel and clutch setup is out of balance, being that it's all attached - flywheel to crank, crank to engine, engine to tranny - the vibration with increasing RPM would transfer to the shifter to some extent even with the clutch engaged. Should be much more noticeable with the clutch out however, as that will connect the flywheel and clutch directly to the transmission. Be aware that this condition is VERY serious, as an out of balance flywheel/clutch assembly will destroy the engine main bearings in short order. Not trying to scare you, but it's true. Subaru's do not have dampening systems or counter-balance shafts due to their inherintly balanced opposing cylinder design - this makes them particularly vulnerable to balance issues. Depending on the mechanic he may or may not have touched it. If he is a GOOD mechanic, he will follow this procedure (more or less) when the transmission is out of the car: 1. Mark the flywheel and clutch pressure plate to insure proper alignment durring reassembly 2. Remove and inspect the clutch disc, pressure plate and flywheel mating surfaces, and the throwout bearing in the flywheel. 3. Clean all clutch dust from flywheel, and spray entire assembly with brake cleaner. 4. Reinstall the clutch (if it is good - otherwise reccomend replacement to customer) using the alignment marks made in step 1, and a clutch disc alignment tool. If the worn pressure plate was re-installed to the flywheel in a different position than it was removed, then you may have a situation where the flywheel and clutch disc wear pattern is offset in a way that more mass is on one side of the assembled unit. This would cause a vibration just as you describe. GD

I don't know of any shifter bushings that are supposed to be anything but "tight".... shouldn't cause vibration in any case. The problem with verifying the double offset joints is they more or less must be removed to be checked, and at that point they might as well be replaced. Usually the vibration can be felt through the seat or steering wheel as well, but a slight vibration may not be felt, and power steering, if you have it, will diminish how much is felt there... Usually when DOJ's fail they fail quickly, and the vibration is significant and very, very bad. Another option - did your mechanic remove/change/adjust the clutch pressure plate at all? There are alignment marks on the pressure plate, and the flywheel for balanceing - they must be aligned at least 160 degrees apart if I recall correctly. This could cause a vibration in the engine that would transfer into the transmission and then your shifter any time you are in gear. It also matches your description of the vibration being more pronounced at the top of each gear. GD

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=56772 n00b.

You may have not seen one of these yet miles - but trust me, EA82's did come with Feedback carbs in CA, and possibly other places. I happen to own one, and there are plenty of them in the yards around here. It's a more complex system than the EA81 feedback, and there is at least one sensor - the manifold pressure sensor - that I have been unable to locate a working replacement for. I shudder to think what it would cost from the dealer, and it is definately not repairable... I took one apart and it's a mess inside. Not just electronics, but some sort of viscous gel as well. Very interesting. I did away with the whole mess yesterday actually - put on a Weber. MUCH better power, and no more weird vacuum solenionds and ECS lights. The computer is still turning on the ECS light on me, but that will go away when I pull the computer out. The thing would run alright, but randomely the idle would drop and engine would die. Would have to give it a bit of gas to keep it running. But it would only happen when the ECU decided to change something - probably a flaky sensor - O2's will do that. Who knows tho. And I drive about 200 miles a day. If you need an EA82 feedback ECU - I've got one. It's never going back on my car, so you can have it for free if you like. GD

So you would say that a Hummer H1 isn't very capable then I take it? Have you driven one? Have you broken one off-road? I have. I would say that IRS and IFS are just really starting to come into their own. Solid axles are going away - even some in the rock crawling community are looking to switch over. Portal systems, and the ability to not have low hanging diffs and no high angle drivelines are just a few of the reasons these systems are taking over nearly every type of automotive application. Articulation is not an issue - the VW Baja community has been running 28 - 30" of travel in the rear of bugs for years. And that's with stock components. GD

Sounds like either you have ill-fitting brake pads in the front - I've been sold the wrong ones for EA81's and they click. That sound will usually go away after 50 MPH or soo, and applying the brakes will stop it too of course. Sounds like classis CV failure to me - have to start pulling thins apart to see. GD

Under the drivers kick panel. And yes the carb does sometimes have the ECU if it's a CA model especially. Does your "ECM" light come on? Probably got some bad sensors - I'll just throw out there" coolant temp sensor, and almost certainly the manifold pressure sensor. Hehe GD

3 mains is not a problem - the reason Subaru went to 5 is to support higher power output. Perhaps you have not experienced a properly tuned, well maintained EA series engine. They do run quite smooth. A worn main will definately cause an imbalance - I have worn mains on my Brat and it has a permanent imbalance at idle. GD

He's under the mistaken impression that it will make the engine run smoother using VW fireing order... thing is I've never seen a VW flat four run as smooth as a Subaru flat 4 in stock form. GD

Your brake is stuck on? Well that isn't good - not that subaru brakes are particularly strong, but you'll warp the rotor and wear the pads down to nothing quick. High speed might cause a fire. I've seen it happen on trailers. Might be the cause of the noise if you hit the iron pad backing plate. That usually makes a squeeling sound tho. Does the clicking change with turning, or is it constant? Does it get faster with higher speed? You need to think logically and narrow your repair path based on some simple testing here. We can't guess at what it might be without a little more info. GD

Yeah - top of the column there is a rocker switch - turn it off. Those are your daytime running lights. GD

Yes - a bad Double Offset joint can indeed cause vibration. It's the inner joint of the front axles. Did you have rebuilt axles installed or new ones? Rebuilt units seem to not be of very good quality a lot of times. GD

What do you need more dampening for? GD

You mean the Dual Hitachi setup from the japanese import engines? They are out there. Just keep looking. Dual Weber's? Never heard of it. You would need a custom intake manifold for it. GD

Too wide by a bit. Find an uncracked dash - should be easy since you got them till 92 over there. Don't whine to the poor people of the USA about cracked dashes - we stopped getting Brats in 87 . Wagon or Sedan from 80-84 is the same dash, so get to looking. GD

Well - think of it this way - your engine is a big air pump. It draw air in through the Air filter... this is called the "Intake". Make sense? And it shoots the air out through the "Exhaust". Logical eh? It mixes a little gas with the air to create a small explosion (actually it's just burning very, very fast, but for out purposes here, it's an explosion), and that drives the engine. Thus the need for gas AND air. You follow that? Ok - so the big air pump pulls a lot of air through it - so the intake manifold is just like the nozzle of a vacuum cleaner - if you put your hand up to it you will feel the suction. Same idea here - a little bit of that suction is routed through the hose you fixed, and powers the actuators that move the vent flappers in your dash. Pressing the buttons decides which door gets "sucked" open. The little cannister is a vacuum accumulator. What it does is store some of that suction for later use. Basically without getting too complicated there are times when the engine may not have enough suction to work the flappers, so the white deally stores it up for later use. Hope that helps. GD

Ok - Allow me... The white cannister that you found is correct - the lower of the two hoses must be connected to manifold vacuum. The manifold is.... well a picture is best I suppose: Here is the supply line I'm refering too. This supplies the white "vacuum accumulator" with manifold vacuum and powers the vacuum motors that change the vent selections for you when you press a button: Here is a typical connection to manifold vacuum where you will need to connect that supply line. Your's will look a little different as you have fuel injection, and this picture is from my carburated sedan. Trace the line comming from the bottom of the white vacuum accumulator and find where it is supposed to connect to manifold vacuum. It's usually a "T" fitting supplying a couple differen't things. I bet it has just fallen off. For reference, the bottom of the picture shows the upper radiator hose on the passenger side - and that blurry silver thing in the foreground is the oil fill cap. Post back if you need more help or better pictures. I used my phone, and probably should have just used my camera - the phone isn't great for close ups. GD

Yep GD