GeneralDisorder

Sometimes the cone washer under the axle nut can wear and cause a similar noise - check that as well. GD

Pretty sure the turbo will not fit, and even then you would need some form of boost control or you won't notice a lot of different, other than it spools slower due to it's larger size. GD

Nothing will really swap, unless you want to swap the whole engine. The 2.2 Turbo is a nice find. You'll either need the tranny from it, or an adaptor plate to put it in your car. You'll need to strip the engine wireing harness from the car and wire it in with it's computer to your GL - also the exhaust will need some modification. That engine can make a lot of power if done right - it's 165 HP stock tho. GD

Sounds like a bad double offset joint on one of your front axles. GD

Did you use a PCV from the dealer or from a generic parts counter? Many members have experienced bad results with after market PCV's. I'm sure some brands are ok, and others not, but the dealer is only about $5, so I usually just get em there. Change the PCV filter in the air box as well - little white foam guy. If the ASV blows, it will make the engine louder, and sometimes you may smell exhaust if you have a window down or cracked. If the plastic didn't get caught in the carb, then it should be ok till you can get it fixed. GD

Here's the scoop: 80-82 - Solid 83-84 Manual Tranny - Solid 83-84 Auto Tranny - Hydro 85-89 - Hydro And for good measure, the two head types: 80-82 - Small Intake Valve 83-89 - Large Intake Valve Also - it's not *just the lifters that are different - the cam, pushrods, and rocker assembly are too. GD

Topic of discussion = EA81. GD

Seen a pic of one here on the board once - may have been JDM. While there are certainly physical differences in outward appearance, the design, and even many of the internal parts are the same. Subaru has not fundamentally changed the 5 speed design since it appeared in 85. Full-Time-4WD is just the early marketing term for the same thing we have today. They changed the marketing term to AWD, but the concept and implementation remain unchanged. GD

Just go to the Foster U-pull-it and grab one - should be about $5. They have plenty. GD

The vacuum device at the rear is the center diff lock actuator. It does not engage 4WD, but rather eliminates the center diff. GD

Sounds like the PCV valve got stuck and sucked oil into the intake. Check it for proper operation. Check for oil in the air-box. It should be DRY in there. Might also have blown an air suction valve, and sucked some of the plastic silencer material through the carb. Look to see if either of the silencers are melted. GD

The EA81 hydro's are not prone to the same ticking that the EA82's are. The lifters are not above the heads, and thus they have much better oil flow, no o-ring to harden and crack, and no pressure relief spring to give out. The write up on cleaning lifters will not apply directly to the EA81 lifters - they are a different design, and are not assembled in the same way. They can be dissasembled, but it's not the same procedure. Likely you need a new oil pump - if the oil pressure is bad enough for the lifters to tick, then it's a good sign that you need a NEW pump. It's not like the EA82's where you can just reseal the old pump. The EA81 pumps wear out, and want replacing about every 100k or so. If this is neglected, the mains, and rods will wear. My Brat has a permanent imbalance due to a worn main from the PO not changing the oil pump. It's not getting any worse now that it has decent pressure, but it's still annoying at idle and will require a rebuild to correct. On an EA81 - if you don't get at least 20 psi at idle with 10w30 oil, then it's time for a new pump. Test your pressure with a real gauge as the dash units are suspect as are the cheapo sending units. A newly rebuilt EA81 will push easily 25 psi at idle, and 60 psi at cruise, and will peg the gauge at 75 when started cold. GD

What kind of car? GD

That's why when you launch, you lock the diff. Call it what you want, it's a legacy "AWD" transmission with EA bell-housing. Some early non US legacy transmissions also had the diff lock and 1.2:1 low range. And yes - the 85/86 RX was not AWD - it was part time, but with a 1.2:1 low range. So was the EA81 RX Coupe (JDM only). GD

Sticking floats do happen with these - you could get a rebuild kit and remedy most anything that is wrong with the Hitachi you have. Cost about $30 for the kit. The Napa ones seem to be alright. The rebuild is not that difficult, but these are of fair complexity as carbs go. Depending on where you buy it, a rebuilt Hitachi would probably be the next cheapest solution - I think CCR still does them and the price is pretty fair. The official Redline Weber kit is around $400 depending on where you get it. If you find a weber off ebay, buy a rebuild kit, and the proper jets for a subaru, plus the adaptor plate you can come in just under $200 if you are careful - this is the cheapest solution for the weber, but takes some legwork or ebay to locate a sub-$100 DGV Weber. The DGV is simple as carbs go, and is easy to rebuild and change the jets on. The SPFI swap is also nice, but unless you have a donor car or buy one for cheap all the parts needed can cost as much as a weber kit if you get it all from a yard. It's also the most complex and least documented option - involving wireing some relays, splitting the FI harness from the donor car's body harness, and swapping the distributor and coil. GD

Not without about 6" of lift to clear the diff. GD

Ttt Gd

4WD is 14.5... IIRC.... 2WD is 15.9 See - EA81's used different tanks for 2WD and 4WD. There's about 5 different tanks for EA81's... the hatchbacks were different - again also different for 2WD and 4WD, and they increased the capacity after 82 for some models, so there's a bit of variation out there. Smallest I beleive is around 12.5 (4WD hatch), and largest is the 2WD wagon, etc - 15.9 GD

That's true - same with H1 Hummers. The axles are like fuses that protect the rest of the drivetrain. Except in the case of the H1, they are flange bolted in place and easily changed out anywhere, anytime. I had to do a few in weeds and grass - at least you dont need to jack them up. I would love a flange bolt style axle that is easy to change. A little more beefy than stock, with a 4 or 6 bolt flange would be perfect in my opinion. And remedy the weak stub axle design. Personally I don't care if I destroy a diff once every 5 years. GD

Well - my system seems to work well (for me - YMMV). I've swtiched to using EA82 DOJ's on both ends of my EA81 rear axle shafts. They are about 1/2" deeper each, and that gives me enough extra stretch with the EA82 rear coils, in combination with 1" spacer blocks on my diff hanger to prevent them from over-extending. On the EA82 there are two types of rear axles - one with two DOJ's, and one with a CV on the outer end. Get the double DOJ axles for better stretch. On the front - there is a company in CA by the name of GCK that makes some pretty serious EA81 front axles. They are "beyond" 4WD spec for the EA81, and the joints are amazingly strong. They are not remanned in ANY way - even the shaft is brand new. I have not been able to break one no matter how hard I've tried. Possibly with bigger tires and more gearing you could, but even GCK claims they are "optimized for off-road performance". I have to say I'm impressed with them, and I don't say that often. Sadly, they make nothing similar to this for the EA82. Perhaps if you gave them a call..... The next weakest link is definately the rear diff stub axles. I would like to find a way to make some out of a stronger material, or make them from standard steel but not hollow - use a different method to keep them in place. Maybe a cir-clip or a bolt over flange or something. Perhaps move up to the R180 diff, or the R200 in the STi.... need more info on them tho. GD

Should work - you may need to strut tops from an 82+, but I am not sure on that. Knuckles should be the same. GD

They are usually top-end models - probably has a lot of stuff. GD

Might need a can of white lithium grease for some of the innards - that stuff gets pretty gunked up with old grease and rust. GD

If it runs - it's worth $100 as a parts car if nothing else. I bet the tranny is toast or something. Ask him. GD

PCV valve - back of the intake manifold near the middle. 17mm attached to a hose. Follow the hose comming from the little white foam filter inside the air filter houseing and you'll find it. Replace the foam filter too. Carb inlet? C'mon are you serious? Take off the air filter top and it's the BIG hole in the middle. GD