GeneralDisorder

Yeah - he's right. Now that I think about it - the crankshaft counterbalance wieghts would have to be redesigned to accomidate the new firing order. It would probably shake so violently it would rip itself apart in no time. GD

My vote is intake manifold gakets - the aftermarket ones suck. Get em from the dealer, and follow the torque specs. Carb base gaskets can blow too - I would do that as well. GD

Tell them you will take not a penny less than $2000. Especially if it was 4WD and in decent shape. Argue that you'll have to replace it's "function", not neccesarily with the exact same car. Personally I wouldn't take any less than $2000 for ANY running car as insurance settlement - there is my personal time and effort and missed work and all that other stuff to consider if someone wrecks my car. Not to mention I have to find another one and take the time and effort to customize it as I like. They won't go for that, and will offer you a low ball figure. Just say: "Well - I have been having a bit of neck and shoulder pain, and I really don't think I should sign anything before I see my doctor anyway..." Seriously - not your fault so they pretty much know they are going to lose. If it goes to court - represent yourself and use the "spirt of the law" argument. Judges love that. DON'T settle for less - you have an obligation to the rest of us to fight them tooth and nail. Insurance rape is so wrong. They are banking on you needing to settle quick in order to get another car. Post in the wanted forum and someone will come up with something for you cheap. Just wait them out. The longer the case goes un-settled the more likely they are to give you what you want. GD

Any EA81/EA71 disty will work from 82+ You have two choices - the Nippon-denso version, and the Hitachi. Most likely you have the Hitachi now. 4WD's got the Hitachi, and 2WD's got the ND. You'll want the same brand of coil to whichever one you get - incorrect coil resistance can lead to ignitor failure. And no Accel coils - they are junk. Could also use a carbbed EA82 disty if you cant find an EA81 version, but you'll have to change out the drive gear. If you have access to a small drill press it's easy. Should be a little easier to find one in the yards. Yards here by me charge $19 + 5 core for them. GD

I fail to see the reasoning behind this. You say your engine doesn't run smooth and you can feel it in the struts??!? Either you are delusional, or your engine probably has a bad main bearing. All the subaru engines I've had that were in decent condtion ran butter smooth when properly tuned (usually with a weber). I've got one in my brat that has a slight bump to it at idle - previous owner neglected to change the oil pump, so now I get to rebuild it. In fact they usually run so smooth there is little indication they are about to throw a rod till around a mile before it happens. GD

Skiing related I would assume: http://www.nastar.com/ http://www.silvermt.com/ http://www.ski49n.com/ GD

I am condsidering either the mile-marker 6000, or possibly going with a hydraulic mile marker. They have a really fast line speed and can run off the power steering system. A come-along is an absolute necessity off-road - and a snatch strap too - both for towing and wincing. Hi-Lift jacks can winch too, but the process is slow like the come-along. Even with a winch the come along is important for holding the vehicle to a specific line while winching. GD

The problem is not the motor, but rather the electrical supply to it. The motors are actually fine, you just need to get cleaner power to them. You can try cleaning the grounds, but I've not had a lot of luck that way. I think it's best to run new power to the main fuse panel. GD

It's a remote recevier unit used for processing commands from the alien invasion fleet - will be best if you cover it with tin foil.... and don't forget your foil headgear while driving. GD

The belt + retractor mechanism is under it tho - same difference. No storage. GD

Check your inner axle joints. Probably worn out. GD

The way to fix the guages is to have the speedo cable cut and an adjustable gear reduction unit spliced into the cable. It's not cheap, but will allow you to change your tire size by simply changeing the gear set in the reduction unit. There are places that specialize in this for big lifted trucks ect. I think the service is around $100.... definately not as cheap as your solution, but if you plan to change tires sizes later.... and it's definately as cheap or cheaper than a full programable guage and electric sender setup. Looks good tho - you have a lot of time on your hands. Personally I just used an online tire size/speed calulator, and figured the percentage increase in the speed, and made a simple chart that I taped to my dash. 47 MPH is 55 for me... I've trained myself to know this when in the wagon. It's an off-road dirt and rock machine and fixing the speedo is the least of my worries. But that's me. This would be a neat trick for my Brat when I lower it tho... definately might consider that. *edit* could you post the image file perhaps? GD

Can't recall leaving a whole lot behind - dead power steering belt after the tensioner bearing seized... and part of a failed lower radiator hose - cut the end off and reattached to keep going. I scraped a door moulding off on a tree. My wagon never had mudflaps being a 2WD - much to the dismay of anyone behind me on the freeway I'm sure. I always wonder if that's how I pissed off that guy in the focus that I rammed on I-205.... GD

YES - they rock. Autozone $100 no core charge. BRAND NEW. GD

OUCHIES - next time call me first - the GR2's are 2WD non-adjustable front struts. You need the Monroe ones if you want the front adjuster nuts.... Think I paid around $75 a peice for GR2's from Discount Import Parts..... but of course that's a long, long time ago before I knew they weren't adjustable. GD

I'm pretty much down for whatever I suppose - you guys figure it out. Just make it fun for us non-stocker's too. The trails in scapoose that I know of.... parts are easy and parts are hard, but some are rather long, and we may find we have to turn back at some point.... I've gone through at least one that I was the ONLY rig that drove through the trap, and then couldn't winch, pull or coerce anyone else through so decided to turn back.... well I got stuck trying to go the other way through the mess. Not cool. Bashed in some door panels and got real wet and cursed a lot that day. There are some soob-swallowing abyss's there that seriously would swallow a small house. I've seen holes that were so deep with rain nothing short of a boat could have gone through. Narrow trail with water 5 feet deep will swallow a soob in no time. GD

Cool - well that's definately cheap enough for a NEW carb. If it works that will be a real cheap upgrade. One thing you can also do - if it's like the Subaru Hitachi's then wrap a peice of wire coat hanger around the linkage so the secondary opens mechanically instead of with the vacuum actuator. That will give you better throttle response and low end torque. GD

That's what the guys at Nasa said about the o-ring... Parts ARE meant to wear out eventually, and 150k is a good run for a bearing. Grease contamination is almost inevitable at some point, and replacing the seals is often more work than just letting the fool bearing die and doing everything at once. GD

Your backfire is due to exhaust leaks or Air Suction Valve failure. The anti-backfire valve is a red herring. It's there to prevent the very slight pops you get durring closed throttle down-hill coasting. It does nothing when accelerating. Replace your exhaust gaskets at the heads, and block the ASV's on both heads. Quarters in the inlet pipes work great. Cheap fix. You may have some leaks in your y-pipe as well, but blocking the ASV's will eliminate the backfireing as there will be no fresh oxygen to burn with the fuel. GD

I know it's been done - Qman cut out an airbox to fit a Weber. Used some sheet metal or coffee can material and some JB weld to get it all sealed and such. Ugly looking, but only from underneath. With the lid on it looked stock. Just glue the center wing nut to the lid. GD

It will go on, but your mechanic will need to be a little ingenious - you may have to turn the distributor so the vac advance is on the other side - have to flip the mounting plate over to do that. It's not that big of a deal if you understand distributor ignition systems and how to time it with the distributor 180 degrees out. Ask TomRhere - he's done it with his Brat. GD

Gallon of gas and a match.... Seriously - how much did this carb cost you? I just did a whole weber conversion for less than $200.... Not saying it can't be done because of course it can - it's just the law of diminishing returns. If you are going to all that trouble to pull the carb off and put another on, then why not the Weber, or heck - why not fuel injection - it's a straight bolt on. You will want a new base gasket (two of them actually), and be careful not to break the "plastic" spacer on the Hitachi. You may also have to swap around the throttle cable adaptors. GD

Manifold-to-head gaskets are the same for pretty much the whole EA series except the EA82T, and EA82 MPFI. They have the dual-port heads. You'll need to do some trickery with the upper radiator hose. Just find something that works - probably modified EA82 upper hose. If you have EA81 power steering there may be some issues with clearance, and the location of the upper radiator hose will not play well with the pump belt. Probably have to switch to the EA81T/EA82 power steering pump assembly. GD

Well - if you are talking special order, I think there was a lot of things you could do *if* you wanted. LSD's were an order option as well. You or I are never likely to see anything strange like that tho. Special order's for these things were pretty rare I'm sure. GD

FP is electric - under the car near the tank. Not your problem. Filter probably is fine being you are in Oregon - might change it since you rolled the thing tho. I would say your carb is in need of cleaning - try the redneck method - rev it to 5k, and stuff a rag over the intake of the carb - will suck all the junk through it. GD