GeneralDisorder

There are two types of EA81 axles - different DOJ joint spline on the shaft. The 2WD EA81 axle shaft will take an EA82 DOJ.... at least the 23 spline ones..... the 4WD shaft might take a 25 spline DOJ. there is a combination that will work you just have to figure it out. You can also probably get one of the axle companies like Ocala to send you just the joint parts and put them on yourself. GD

Wiggle, and pry on it just a bit while it's turning. That should get it moving. Definately want to replace it since it's obviously been in there for way too long. Don't pry on the mating surface, just on the bit right before the filter. It may break into little peices, and you'll have to dig them out. If it's really stubborn you can loosen the bolts to the crank case halves around the pump area and lightly smack the area with a dead blow soft hammer to dislodge the pump. GD

Well - out here in oregon you have to do an "odometer disclosure" when you register any vehicle under 10 years old, but after 10 years they don't care anymore. So I think you'll be ok. Check your local laws of course. At any rate, make up a reciept from "Bills Hillbilly Tractor Mechanics" (specialzing in foreign autos of course ), and say it was replaced by these guys somewhere in Canada durring a road trip. I wouldn't think it would be that hard to roll the odometer back to the same milage yours is at or less. I rolled the 1 back to a 0 in the cluster I put in my wagon just for laughs (it's lifted and beat to smack besides being over 20 years old, so no worries). But my cluster reads 36k miles now. Hehe. GD

Should be around 2 - 3 PSI. You can get a pressure reducer from any good parts store usually. The performance places that sell lots of holley and edelbrock stuff usually have them. GD

If you have some legacy's in your yards, you might look at the spline count of those guys too. The joint may fit the EA82 axles. GD

Careful with that - sometimes the seal on the tranny end of the cable will fail and suck grease into the tach head - that will cause the needle to go berserk and fly around to 70 MPH when you are going 10. I think it would be easiest to replace the cluster - you may have some corrosion in the tach. But since you don't seem like the type to like "easy", try dissasembling the unit and cleaning the tach. Maybe use some carefully applied dielictric grease for the turny bits inside. I would just get another cluster - but then they are very, very common out here in the west *edit* I just saw you have a loyale - I happen to have a 90 or 91 loyale clouster in the garage - it's from a 4WD push button 5 speed, so if you have an Auto it may not have the gear indicators - not sure. Anyway - I'm not even sure why I brought it home other than it was free from my co-workers wrecked loyale. I would part with it for the low price of $10 plus shipping. (need the motivation to get it to the post office - beer on the way home! ) GD

No - best to start the car immediately as the choke will be correct for the outside temp conditions (assuming it's set correctly to begin with). If you leave the ignition on, then the choke will be "pulled off" and it will start without a choke at all since it thinks the engine is already warm. One of the other reasons the electric choke is not the best is that it does require adjustment for temp extremes - like it may need to be set differently for extremely cold climates, or extremely hot climates. Theretically, a coolant choke should be better, but in practice it doesn't seem to work that way. Another thing - some soobs - mostly the feedback carb ones, run the choke from the fuel pump control unit circuit. This has the advantage that the choke will not get power unless the engine is running, and a tach signal is present. This improves the behavior of the electric choke quite a bit - still does nothing to improve the adjustment for extreme climates problem - only full Fuel Injection can really solve that easily. Yay for choke theory! GD

The 12v is for the heating element behind the spring - it's like a toaster coil. It heats up the bi-metal spring slowly, and pulls the choke off after the engine has had a chance to warm up. Not a perfect system since there is no real correlation between the engine temp and the choke temp - if the engine is warm then the choke hsouing will get warm just from proximity, but if the engine is cold, and the ignition has been on for a short time the choke could pull off without the engine ever being started. In practice it works alright tho, and is definately less complex than the coolant heated choke sytems, and requires less driver input than a manual choke. GD

Yeah - didn't know it would hold up to coolant pressure. GD

All the same, yep. GD

Often it's hard to turn them in without being able to apply pressure to it while turning. Try removing the bleeder screw completely - that way you will not have to push all the fluid back into the reservior. Sometimes that is not enough either - Harbor Frieght sells a disc brake tools kit with a clamp and mehcanism to apply pressure to the piston while turning it. That may be a good option for you - they are $29.99 IIRC. Try the bleeder screw trick first - messy and you'll have to bleed that caliper when you are done. The piston boot can be reaplaced easily - you can buy a caliper rebuild kit for a couple dollars that includes that boot. GD

If you can pull out half the cable from the engine bay then that pretty much sums it up. If the cable is not broken then that leaves the clutch fork, or the pressure plate or release bearing.... to get to any of those you'll have to split the engine from the transmission. Probably best to pull the engine if it's not the pedal or the cable. You can shift it with a broken fork - bad pressure plate - bad release bearing, or broken cable. All those just mean you won't be able to use the clutch. As long as the disc is good you'll still be able to drive just have to time your shifts to the tach. GD

Yep - everything from the front seats forward - except the tranny and clutch. GD

Check your fuses. GD

I vote for vacuum leak. GD

There is already Zinc IN your coolant. Run 50/50 coolant and water and change it once a year. You'll have the same effect. GD

Hitachi and Carter/Weber feedback systems are not compatible. The ECU is different among other things. Just rip it all off and use a non-feedback carb. Sounds like maybe you did already? Pull the ECU out - it's under the drivers side kick panel. That will extinguish your ECS light.... forever. GD

If you warp the heads, you can just have them milled flat again. And if you are doing a HG anyway, then you may as well have the valves done and the heads milled. GD

The 85/86 electric choke module's usually wear the end off the bi-metal spring inside them from rubbing on the choke plate lever. Likely the end of the spring is broken off and you'll have to replace the electric choke module. Look for one in the junk yards - hard to find without a broken end. If you can find a car that was garaged it should be ok, as the choke was not used much. Take out the rivets, or the screws or whatever is holding the choke on, and inspect the spring. If the hook on the end is good, then just turn the choke housing till the spring holds the choke plates closed with the engine cold. Make a slight bend in the ring that holds the choke module on the carb, and screw it on so it clamps down on the housing and holds it from moving. GD

Clean it all out really good - remove the helicoil too. Fill the hole with JB weld, and then file it flat - drill, heli-coil and reinstall. JB is pretty tough stuff - especially when it has something to bond to like inside that hole. Other option is to TIG weld it up and start over like everyone is saying. Personally I would at least try the JB weld first. I've seen it hold some amazing stuff. GD

Had a similar issue with one of my Hitachi's - the float was sticking. Has the carb been rebuilt? And if so did they replace the float needle and seat? GD

Sounds like a double failure - maybe somehow the pressure plate failure caused the cable to break. From the sound of it - I would say the release bearing is gone/destroyed or the pressure plate fingers have snapped off or worn through. Take the boot off and shine a real strong light down in there and see if you can see any damage.... The fork should be movable, but only till the release bearing makes contact with the PP. GD

Ok - first there are two types of EA82 rear axles - those with a CV on the outer, and those with DOJ on the outer like an EA81. The years are mix and match - I've never been able to figure out the system they used for what went on which model. Second - Manxta is right - you can pound the spindle out of the control arm and the bearing all with one go. Just use a drift and pound it straight out. It's just like the outer end of a front axle. DONT use grease on the cup splines - use Anti-Seize. It's not prone to creeping out of the splines like grease will when it's hot from the brakes. It will dry and leave a silvery paste like film on the splines. I put on new anti-sieze every so often when I'm pulling/installing my rear axle for off-road. The water and dust eat it away. GD

That's almost never the case - oil in the filter box is a result of a clogged or poorly functioning PCV valve, and hoses. Clean the valve in kerosene, or get a new one, and clean all the hoses very well. Replace the little foam PCV filter element in the corner of the air box. Subaru's almost never experience blow-by. They do not wear their bores - it's just a fact. The horizontal cylinder does not drain away oil easily, and they are very well lubed. The main bearings, rod bearings and valve guides will fall apart before the bore even gets broken in. GD

Set the weber idle speed at around 700 RPM, and set the timing so that 1. It doesn't ping under load, and 2. Doesn't diesel when you shut it off. Should be right around 7 or 8 degrees. Mine is set at 7 due to milled heads = higher compression. GD