GeneralDisorder

Sure - let me get pics of my setup. Back in a few GD

Use a 2' bit of heater core hose up to your ear to pinpoint the location of the noise. Could be the water pump, belt tensioners, alternator, etc. Find it quick before it fails. GD

If you do mount to the jacking plate note that it will get smashed up if you leave it stock. Mine was pretty radically bent. I worked it back into shape, and added gussets on the inside of it to keep it from bending again. So far so good. Lower radiator support is a bad option - they get smashed pretty easy. Mine just keeps getting flatter. I'm going with the bumper mount for the front. It needs serious improvement tho. Bracing back into the framerail, and maybe to the firewall. GD

You are going to have trouble with the inner DOJ's on the axles - the RX tranny is 25 spline, while the EA81 axles are 23 spline. They never made a 25 spline EA81 axle - custom axle are possible with the right parts from the right years. Now if you swap the entire suspension you could use the RX axles, but you will have to do some fab work to get it all in place. You'll have to move the lower control arm mount on the cross-member, or make custom lower control arms. The EA81 control arms are too short, and are not compatible with the EA82 ball joint. The struts will be interesting too as the strut top is different - two bolts on the EA81 and three on the EA82... Have to be very careful with your calculations and fab work so as to keep the camber accurate. It can be done tho. Might as well go to 5 lug while you are at it. GD

I don't mind lending a hand - but I don't have time to do the whole job for you. If you need a tool or advice that's no trouble at all. As for the timing belts - there is no tensioner tool required, and the timing procedure is easy, and you can't really mess it up since the engine is non-interferance. If you get it wrong, you just try again. GREENSUBIE - you have a completely different engine and tranny. Your EA81 is much easier. GD

EA81 and Justy are the same tho GD

If the engine isn't in the car - drill a hole in the front of the pump and thread a bolt in there - use a slide hammer on it. GD

You have the carter/weber or you have the DGV weber? Anyway - if you want the light gone, remove the ECU. Depending on the original carb setup, the ECU may control the FPCU - hard to say for sure. Just rewire the pump. GD

If that doesn't work - pull the covers off the column, and use a chisel to turn out the two bolts that hold the ignition mechanism in place. Then you can start it with a screwdriver using the ignition swtich. Take the lock mechnism to a smith and have it redone. GD

Heh - you have the feedback carb. Sux don't it? Pull the kick panel off and the feedback computer will blink the error codes to you. Post them here and we can tell you the codes - or get a haynes manual and it will have them listed. Lets see - I bet you get "coolant temp sensor" and "O2 sensor" and probably a few more - fuel pump control is routed through the ECU also . Feedback is teh suck. Wash your hands of it and get a Weber. Seriously. I've had two of them - EA81, and EA82. Of the two the EA82 was worse, but neither really ever ran correctly. Fixing all the sensors and vacuum switches will end up costing you more than a Weber, and you'll get better mileage and power from the weber. Hell - swapping to the EA82 SPFI would be less of a headache, and better mileage too. GD

It's about damn time! GD

1. The car talked about in the "EA performance pages" is a carbed model - you have fuel injection, so there is only one type of distributor for your sytem. In fact the SPFI, MPFI, and Turbo engines all use the same disty - 2WD or 4WD. Your advance is set before hand when you time the engine, and the computer retards the timing as needed. 2. That page is wrong about the 2WD advance curve. It's the same as the 4WD curve. This also applies mostly to EA81's, as I'm not even sure the EA82 carbed got the Nippon disty for the 2WD version. At any rate this is a wives tale, and a bad one at that. There are good reasons to swap to the Nippon disty IMO, but better/different advance curve is not one of them. (sorry - doesn't apply to your situation at all - just clarifying). Also - I doubt the weights/springs from the 2WD would even fit the 4WD as they are completely different brands. GD

He's in AUS - it's easier to use the same size engine I think - for the paperwork end of things. Inspections suck. GD

Well - I have a welded rear end, 28" MT's, and 5". When the mud is deep and the water up past my rockers.... the Weber comes in handy. I've been stuck - very, very stuck. The trick is knowing what you can get into, and probably get out of. If I never get stuck I won't know what the capabilities truely are. Ask the people I go with.... I'm certifiable. GD

Lookin sharp. How's the power on the propane? Guess you don't need a heater down in So-Cal eh? GD

It's blue? Do you have the feedback carb?!? Yuckies. Anyway yes - it's attached to the bolt for the hood release cable - right above it. GD

You don't have one under the hood - pretty much guarantee it. Only 80/81 Gen II's have the under-hood pump. Have you checked the FPCU? GD

That's surely different - never seen anything like that here in the states. Totally bizzare. GD

That guy is/was on the board - he posted about his spyder intake problems as I recall.... GD

I totally understand wanting the stock stuff to work. I've been there - very frustrating at times. First thing to do is make sure the choke is pulling off as it should when warm. You may have the choke set so hard that it doesn't open fully, and so it's not getting enough air till you rev it and the high-speed choke pull-off mechanism cuts in. That would explain your warm idle problem. Start it up cold with the air filter top off so you can view the choke plate. Once the engine starts to get warm, the choke should start pulling off (heater coil will heat up the bi-metal spring and pull the choke plate open). Tap the throttle occasionally so the choke plate has a chance to move. You want the choke adjusted such that it's barely closed when cold, and opens up as the engine warms. GD

It's 12v - I've wired them plenty of times for one, and for another it would be silly to use lower voltage for something like that as it's less effecient. Early soobs had the pump under the hood - pre-82 were all like that. They are LOUD - so loud I can "feel" the one in my Brat runnning. On the Brat the pump is much closer to the drivers seat under the cab than the rest of the models. I can hear the one on my 86 sedan too - quite loud. Both are stock pumps. GD

Having a weber will help a LOT. I put one on my 86 sedan I use as my daily, and it's great. Just the simple fact that the secondary is mechanical is invaluable on the trail (on my EA81 lifted wagon). You can't get it to open when in the deep muck and hardly moving. The stock hitachi just doesn't have the oomph for the job. They can be had cheaply - I got one from a board member for $90 shipped - adaptor plate: $38, rebuild kit: $25, New electric choke (it was water when I got it): $32, and three new jets as it was jetted for a BWM: $18, so for about $210 I got a brand new carb for the sedan - rebuilt and properly jetted. Compare that to the price of the Weber "kit" from Redline - $375. It's like a whole different car. The EA82's are sooo gutless with the stock Hitachi. I just couldn't stand it. GD

I think you may need some DOJ's from a 2.2 turbo legacy.... There's tons of combinations out there - call a rebuilder or two and see if you can get an answer from em. GD

Actually they are pretty loud. Normal. GD

Yep - that's a 12v device fo-sho. GD