GeneralDisorder

Often it's hard to turn them in without being able to apply pressure to it while turning. Try removing the bleeder screw completely - that way you will not have to push all the fluid back into the reservior. Sometimes that is not enough either - Harbor Frieght sells a disc brake tools kit with a clamp and mehcanism to apply pressure to the piston while turning it. That may be a good option for you - they are $29.99 IIRC. Try the bleeder screw trick first - messy and you'll have to bleed that caliper when you are done. The piston boot can be reaplaced easily - you can buy a caliper rebuild kit for a couple dollars that includes that boot. GD

If you can pull out half the cable from the engine bay then that pretty much sums it up. If the cable is not broken then that leaves the clutch fork, or the pressure plate or release bearing.... to get to any of those you'll have to split the engine from the transmission. Probably best to pull the engine if it's not the pedal or the cable. You can shift it with a broken fork - bad pressure plate - bad release bearing, or broken cable. All those just mean you won't be able to use the clutch. As long as the disc is good you'll still be able to drive just have to time your shifts to the tach. GD

Yep - everything from the front seats forward - except the tranny and clutch. GD

Check your fuses. GD

I vote for vacuum leak. GD

There is already Zinc IN your coolant. Run 50/50 coolant and water and change it once a year. You'll have the same effect. GD

Hitachi and Carter/Weber feedback systems are not compatible. The ECU is different among other things. Just rip it all off and use a non-feedback carb. Sounds like maybe you did already? Pull the ECU out - it's under the drivers side kick panel. That will extinguish your ECS light.... forever. GD

If you warp the heads, you can just have them milled flat again. And if you are doing a HG anyway, then you may as well have the valves done and the heads milled. GD

The 85/86 electric choke module's usually wear the end off the bi-metal spring inside them from rubbing on the choke plate lever. Likely the end of the spring is broken off and you'll have to replace the electric choke module. Look for one in the junk yards - hard to find without a broken end. If you can find a car that was garaged it should be ok, as the choke was not used much. Take out the rivets, or the screws or whatever is holding the choke on, and inspect the spring. If the hook on the end is good, then just turn the choke housing till the spring holds the choke plates closed with the engine cold. Make a slight bend in the ring that holds the choke module on the carb, and screw it on so it clamps down on the housing and holds it from moving. GD

Clean it all out really good - remove the helicoil too. Fill the hole with JB weld, and then file it flat - drill, heli-coil and reinstall. JB is pretty tough stuff - especially when it has something to bond to like inside that hole. Other option is to TIG weld it up and start over like everyone is saying. Personally I would at least try the JB weld first. I've seen it hold some amazing stuff. GD

Had a similar issue with one of my Hitachi's - the float was sticking. Has the carb been rebuilt? And if so did they replace the float needle and seat? GD

Sounds like a double failure - maybe somehow the pressure plate failure caused the cable to break. From the sound of it - I would say the release bearing is gone/destroyed or the pressure plate fingers have snapped off or worn through. Take the boot off and shine a real strong light down in there and see if you can see any damage.... The fork should be movable, but only till the release bearing makes contact with the PP. GD

Ok - first there are two types of EA82 rear axles - those with a CV on the outer, and those with DOJ on the outer like an EA81. The years are mix and match - I've never been able to figure out the system they used for what went on which model. Second - Manxta is right - you can pound the spindle out of the control arm and the bearing all with one go. Just use a drift and pound it straight out. It's just like the outer end of a front axle. DONT use grease on the cup splines - use Anti-Seize. It's not prone to creeping out of the splines like grease will when it's hot from the brakes. It will dry and leave a silvery paste like film on the splines. I put on new anti-sieze every so often when I'm pulling/installing my rear axle for off-road. The water and dust eat it away. GD

That's almost never the case - oil in the filter box is a result of a clogged or poorly functioning PCV valve, and hoses. Clean the valve in kerosene, or get a new one, and clean all the hoses very well. Replace the little foam PCV filter element in the corner of the air box. Subaru's almost never experience blow-by. They do not wear their bores - it's just a fact. The horizontal cylinder does not drain away oil easily, and they are very well lubed. The main bearings, rod bearings and valve guides will fall apart before the bore even gets broken in. GD

Set the weber idle speed at around 700 RPM, and set the timing so that 1. It doesn't ping under load, and 2. Doesn't diesel when you shut it off. Should be right around 7 or 8 degrees. Mine is set at 7 due to milled heads = higher compression. GD

Loosen all the pressure plate bolts, and it will slide right on. Tighten them through the starter hole after you have the engine and tranny bolted together. The input shaft isn't lining up with the throwout bearing. Incidentally, I always do mine this way because I've had the same problem, and plus it's easier and no need to find or keep around an alignment tool. GD

Yeah - did that with my lifted wagon not long ago. Heck - I shift without the clutch a lot into 3rd and 4th. 2nd is a bit sticky since the syncro isn't all that great in mine. The ex-girlfriend wasted my clutch pressure plate - the bearing locked up and wore straight through it. Once the engine is warm it starts right up in 1st gear. GD

He probably thought it looked fun, and wanted to try it out. I do get all kinds of thumbs up and looks from the kids these days - maybe it's a good idea to put in a kill switch just for laughs. Never had a problem here, but ya never know. Guess I'll keep that aluminium bat my GF found at the park the other day.... light, strong, and makes a beutiful sound when you rack it off someone's skull. GD

The problem with an adaptor that tall is you will push the seat up too far for us tall peoples. Rob - you might be aright , but I tried something similar with an EA82 seat and it was at least an inch too high. But maybe the Imp seats are lower profile.... GD

Try the dealer. GD

He's right. Brat, Coupe, Hatch - same doors. Wagon, Sedan - same doors. Front seats are the same, front carpet, dash (except shifter console, and radio console), Window cranks, etc Dash forward should near the same for mechanical stuffs. GD

Wrong - the hill holder is released by a cable from the clutch fork to the hill-holder unit under the brake master cylinder. Likely the hill-holder itself is getting worn out - the shaft in them gets sloppy and sometimes the return spring will not pull them back to release the brake pressure - or the cable is improperly adjusted. GD

Wow - that is "far in advance". What about this weekend? Up for something sooner? GD

You can also just use the 5 speed linkage - just have to drill a hole in the floor or weld a stud to the floorpan to bolt it to. Then use the 5 speed consoles and stuff. Personally I like the way the 5 speed linkage is setup, and how it feels. GD

Most alts the pulley is just bolted on. I use an impact to get them off, and usually they swap around no problem. But really it's much easier to use a GM three wire alt. It's almost a drop in. Just turn the alt over, and bend the outside bracket a bit on the EA81. GD