GeneralDisorder

Check your inner axle joints. Probably worn out. GD

The way to fix the guages is to have the speedo cable cut and an adjustable gear reduction unit spliced into the cable. It's not cheap, but will allow you to change your tire size by simply changeing the gear set in the reduction unit. There are places that specialize in this for big lifted trucks ect. I think the service is around $100.... definately not as cheap as your solution, but if you plan to change tires sizes later.... and it's definately as cheap or cheaper than a full programable guage and electric sender setup. Looks good tho - you have a lot of time on your hands. Personally I just used an online tire size/speed calulator, and figured the percentage increase in the speed, and made a simple chart that I taped to my dash. 47 MPH is 55 for me... I've trained myself to know this when in the wagon. It's an off-road dirt and rock machine and fixing the speedo is the least of my worries. But that's me. This would be a neat trick for my Brat when I lower it tho... definately might consider that. *edit* could you post the image file perhaps? GD

Can't recall leaving a whole lot behind - dead power steering belt after the tensioner bearing seized... and part of a failed lower radiator hose - cut the end off and reattached to keep going. I scraped a door moulding off on a tree. My wagon never had mudflaps being a 2WD - much to the dismay of anyone behind me on the freeway I'm sure. I always wonder if that's how I pissed off that guy in the focus that I rammed on I-205.... GD

YES - they rock. Autozone $100 no core charge. BRAND NEW. GD

OUCHIES - next time call me first - the GR2's are 2WD non-adjustable front struts. You need the Monroe ones if you want the front adjuster nuts.... Think I paid around $75 a peice for GR2's from Discount Import Parts..... but of course that's a long, long time ago before I knew they weren't adjustable. GD

I'm pretty much down for whatever I suppose - you guys figure it out. Just make it fun for us non-stocker's too. The trails in scapoose that I know of.... parts are easy and parts are hard, but some are rather long, and we may find we have to turn back at some point.... I've gone through at least one that I was the ONLY rig that drove through the trap, and then couldn't winch, pull or coerce anyone else through so decided to turn back.... well I got stuck trying to go the other way through the mess. Not cool. Bashed in some door panels and got real wet and cursed a lot that day. There are some soob-swallowing abyss's there that seriously would swallow a small house. I've seen holes that were so deep with rain nothing short of a boat could have gone through. Narrow trail with water 5 feet deep will swallow a soob in no time. GD

Cool - well that's definately cheap enough for a NEW carb. If it works that will be a real cheap upgrade. One thing you can also do - if it's like the Subaru Hitachi's then wrap a peice of wire coat hanger around the linkage so the secondary opens mechanically instead of with the vacuum actuator. That will give you better throttle response and low end torque. GD

That's what the guys at Nasa said about the o-ring... Parts ARE meant to wear out eventually, and 150k is a good run for a bearing. Grease contamination is almost inevitable at some point, and replacing the seals is often more work than just letting the fool bearing die and doing everything at once. GD

Your backfire is due to exhaust leaks or Air Suction Valve failure. The anti-backfire valve is a red herring. It's there to prevent the very slight pops you get durring closed throttle down-hill coasting. It does nothing when accelerating. Replace your exhaust gaskets at the heads, and block the ASV's on both heads. Quarters in the inlet pipes work great. Cheap fix. You may have some leaks in your y-pipe as well, but blocking the ASV's will eliminate the backfireing as there will be no fresh oxygen to burn with the fuel. GD

I know it's been done - Qman cut out an airbox to fit a Weber. Used some sheet metal or coffee can material and some JB weld to get it all sealed and such. Ugly looking, but only from underneath. With the lid on it looked stock. Just glue the center wing nut to the lid. GD

It will go on, but your mechanic will need to be a little ingenious - you may have to turn the distributor so the vac advance is on the other side - have to flip the mounting plate over to do that. It's not that big of a deal if you understand distributor ignition systems and how to time it with the distributor 180 degrees out. Ask TomRhere - he's done it with his Brat. GD

Gallon of gas and a match.... Seriously - how much did this carb cost you? I just did a whole weber conversion for less than $200.... Not saying it can't be done because of course it can - it's just the law of diminishing returns. If you are going to all that trouble to pull the carb off and put another on, then why not the Weber, or heck - why not fuel injection - it's a straight bolt on. You will want a new base gasket (two of them actually), and be careful not to break the "plastic" spacer on the Hitachi. You may also have to swap around the throttle cable adaptors. GD

Manifold-to-head gaskets are the same for pretty much the whole EA series except the EA82T, and EA82 MPFI. They have the dual-port heads. You'll need to do some trickery with the upper radiator hose. Just find something that works - probably modified EA82 upper hose. If you have EA81 power steering there may be some issues with clearance, and the location of the upper radiator hose will not play well with the pump belt. Probably have to switch to the EA81T/EA82 power steering pump assembly. GD

Well - if you are talking special order, I think there was a lot of things you could do *if* you wanted. LSD's were an order option as well. You or I are never likely to see anything strange like that tho. Special order's for these things were pretty rare I'm sure. GD

FP is electric - under the car near the tank. Not your problem. Filter probably is fine being you are in Oregon - might change it since you rolled the thing tho. I would say your carb is in need of cleaning - try the redneck method - rev it to 5k, and stuff a rag over the intake of the carb - will suck all the junk through it. GD

No - the knuckle end is always the same. Period. The tranny end of the axle is different. It's pinned on with a roll-pin, and the spline count of the DOJ cup is different for the 4EAT from a Turbo (only came on Turbo's for EA82's) than the cup from the 5 speed. You will need to swap the inner joints from one axle shaft to the other. Just take the boot off and you'll see.... DOJ is Double Offset Joint - the inner is a special form of CVJ - it also slides in and out for suspension travel. Known as a DOJ. GD

With the right adaptors you could use either one - I'm using an autometer sender that came with my guages. I don't trust the soob guages. Seen a couple of them get stuck.... I have an EA82 with an oil pressure guage that won't drop below 25... ever. GD

Little trick for you next time - don't tighten the clutch plate - leave it loose so the disc can be moved up and down with your finger, then tighten the plate through the starter hole after it's mounted. I've run into a couple of cheap alignment tools that didn't work, but this method always does. GD

You can swap the DOJ from one axle to the other - just undo the boot, and swap the joints. Easier than swapping axles out of knucles I say. GD

The two types of axles have nothing to do with the hub end. The spline count on the transmission is the difference. 23 spline for NA, and 25 spline for Turbo. Hubs are the same - the whole GL/Loyale thing is just a name badge - same car, same suspension. Both are EA82's. They were called the "Leone" everywhere but the US. They are saying that the axle to bearing fittment is tight - there is a special tool to draw them through. This is made more apparent by different manufacturers of bearings and axles over the years - some are increddibly tight, and others are so loose the axle falls out by itself. It's a crap shoot. GD

Dude - AA doesn't make the rims - they order them from a rim manufacturer - just like any of us could do. I'm sure their price is dictated by their supplier. Believe me, they would be cheap if any old fab shop could punch out rims. Takes special equipment..... but really all they are doing is taking a blank steel rim, and drilling them to the custom pattern that AA asks them for. Lets see.... Yota steels (in black) = $32 each x 4 = $128 local pickup. AA rims = $100 each x 4 = $400 local pickup. That's the price of a Weber difference people - all you have to do is buy a drill bit and get crackin. I drilled mine with a 1/2" hand drill from like the 1940's - it wasn't even variable speed. If you really wanted to be fancy, you could weld the left over holes, grind, sand and have the set of 4 powder coated and STILL be $150 less than those AA rims. Powder coat is $25 per rim for white or black, so $100 there, and I doubt anyone would charge more than $50 to weld and grind those holes for you. GD

Actually - no need to pull the intake or any of that - easier to pull the engine with all accesories attached, and you don't ruin your manifold gaskets. In fact, you can remove the radiator, and just pull the engine forward enough to get the clutch out. Don't have to pull the engine at all. But it may be easier the first time to pull it completely. GD

Your clutch is likely worn out, and the pedal has to be pushed that far because the cable is loose from the disc being worn out. Tighten the cable will help with the release issue, but if it's slipping then you'll need to pull the engine and replace the clutch. GD

I made a little right angle fitting for my sender (Home Depot brass NPT fitting - couple dollars), and got a 24" braided steel line to remotely locate the sender on the firewall.... gained about 1.5" over the stock senders hang-down. Used a slightly modified coil bracket to mount it to the engine bay on the jack side with a bit of rubber for vibration... this also had the unseen benefit of not having the wire for the Autometer sender run over and down the side of the block. Remember to ground to sender housing if you are going electric.... GD

Once of the guys who went to the Rubicon had a Chevy V6 in his Gen 1 Brat for a while. LumpyCam is his handle on here, but I've not seen him in a while. GD