GeneralDisorder

No - the knuckle end is always the same. Period. The tranny end of the axle is different. It's pinned on with a roll-pin, and the spline count of the DOJ cup is different for the 4EAT from a Turbo (only came on Turbo's for EA82's) than the cup from the 5 speed. You will need to swap the inner joints from one axle shaft to the other. Just take the boot off and you'll see.... DOJ is Double Offset Joint - the inner is a special form of CVJ - it also slides in and out for suspension travel. Known as a DOJ. GD

With the right adaptors you could use either one - I'm using an autometer sender that came with my guages. I don't trust the soob guages. Seen a couple of them get stuck.... I have an EA82 with an oil pressure guage that won't drop below 25... ever. GD

Little trick for you next time - don't tighten the clutch plate - leave it loose so the disc can be moved up and down with your finger, then tighten the plate through the starter hole after it's mounted. I've run into a couple of cheap alignment tools that didn't work, but this method always does. GD

You can swap the DOJ from one axle to the other - just undo the boot, and swap the joints. Easier than swapping axles out of knucles I say. GD

The two types of axles have nothing to do with the hub end. The spline count on the transmission is the difference. 23 spline for NA, and 25 spline for Turbo. Hubs are the same - the whole GL/Loyale thing is just a name badge - same car, same suspension. Both are EA82's. They were called the "Leone" everywhere but the US. They are saying that the axle to bearing fittment is tight - there is a special tool to draw them through. This is made more apparent by different manufacturers of bearings and axles over the years - some are increddibly tight, and others are so loose the axle falls out by itself. It's a crap shoot. GD

Dude - AA doesn't make the rims - they order them from a rim manufacturer - just like any of us could do. I'm sure their price is dictated by their supplier. Believe me, they would be cheap if any old fab shop could punch out rims. Takes special equipment..... but really all they are doing is taking a blank steel rim, and drilling them to the custom pattern that AA asks them for. Lets see.... Yota steels (in black) = $32 each x 4 = $128 local pickup. AA rims = $100 each x 4 = $400 local pickup. That's the price of a Weber difference people - all you have to do is buy a drill bit and get crackin. I drilled mine with a 1/2" hand drill from like the 1940's - it wasn't even variable speed. If you really wanted to be fancy, you could weld the left over holes, grind, sand and have the set of 4 powder coated and STILL be $150 less than those AA rims. Powder coat is $25 per rim for white or black, so $100 there, and I doubt anyone would charge more than $50 to weld and grind those holes for you. GD

Actually - no need to pull the intake or any of that - easier to pull the engine with all accesories attached, and you don't ruin your manifold gaskets. In fact, you can remove the radiator, and just pull the engine forward enough to get the clutch out. Don't have to pull the engine at all. But it may be easier the first time to pull it completely. GD

Your clutch is likely worn out, and the pedal has to be pushed that far because the cable is loose from the disc being worn out. Tighten the cable will help with the release issue, but if it's slipping then you'll need to pull the engine and replace the clutch. GD

I made a little right angle fitting for my sender (Home Depot brass NPT fitting - couple dollars), and got a 24" braided steel line to remotely locate the sender on the firewall.... gained about 1.5" over the stock senders hang-down. Used a slightly modified coil bracket to mount it to the engine bay on the jack side with a bit of rubber for vibration... this also had the unseen benefit of not having the wire for the Autometer sender run over and down the side of the block. Remember to ground to sender housing if you are going electric.... GD

Once of the guys who went to the Rubicon had a Chevy V6 in his Gen 1 Brat for a while. LumpyCam is his handle on here, but I've not seen him in a while. GD

With the rain like it's been, the mud will be pretty ugly - there will be much stuckness even with a locked diff. I would just rather not spend my day pulling stock soobs from huge, soob-swallowing mud holes. And there are some steep, very slick areas that need a good run at speed, with MT's and locked diffs to get up. Without the locker and the MT's, you'll never get up, and beleive me - none of us could pull someone up them. Anyone have an 5,000 lb winch? I don't.... Trails I know about are between scapoose and vernonia - there are some cool areas out there. GD

If you switch to the ND disty, they actually have rubber seals that WORK:banana: Unlike the Hitachi. Disty in my lifted wagon has NEVER been wet inside - even after drowning the engine out with water - multiple times. I need a snorkel, but the disty isn't an issue. GD

Check the engine and tranny mounts - likely they have sheared away. The rubber in them gets old... GD

The increased voltage from the bad alternator may have burned out the elements in the sealed beams - no recourse for that but to replace them. I get them from the Junk Yard - $2 each! Check the fuses as well - bad alternators can do horrible things to fuses. GD

The way the cam sprokets are designed, and the way the belts are routed, oil never really touches them. There is a healthy gap there that that oil does not cross. Besides that, a little oil would not hurt, and will be flung off by the belts - they travel rather fast. The oil burning smell could either be oil dripping down the heads and onto the exhaust, or could be bad CV boots have flung CV joint grease onto the hot catalytic converter - that will smell similar. At any rate it's more of an annoyance than anything. Valve cover gaskets are likely pretty scorched by now. Those are cheap, and easy to install. Anyone with a 10mm wrench can accomplish that in less than 1 hour. Vibration - have you had your tires rotated and balanced recently? GD

Personally I drill out chevy white spokes - they are ~$30 brand new literally anywhere, are stamped from some pretty formidable material, and are WAY overkill for the weight of a soob. I've thrashed them pretty hard, and I can say that you will break axles and diffs long before you break one of those rims. Drilliing them does not weaken the rim in the slightest. Now - if you are going with a divorced t-case or some other big crawl ratio setup, then it would be best to drill the hubs for 6 lugs. Not because you will weaken the rim, but rather you can break off the lug nuts being there are only 4 of them. 6 will make it a little stronger and harder to snap them off. GD

Well - if they were done only 34k ago, and the oil leak isn't literally running out of the engine in a stream, then it's going to be much cheaper to just add a quart of oil every week. A little oil leak is not a bad thing - in fact we like to say here that older Subaru's tend to "mark" their territory rather like a pet. Those seals should last another 15k till you are really ready for timing belts. Save your money and get the full mileage from the belts they were designed for. When you do get to 55 or 60k on the belts, then do all the seals too - they are right there and are a normal part of timing belt changes anyway. Do the seals, both tensioners, idler, and water pump. Probably good to change the oil pump at that time as well. You are looking at around a $500 job with labor, but wait that 15k and save up the money while you do. Add a quart of oil a week if you need it to keep it full. As long as it has oil (between 3 and 4 quarts), a small leak is no problem. As for additives, personally I think they are bunk. I'll run a little detergent (ATF, or MMO) through to loosen gunk buildup and free up lifters occasionally, but largely plain old oil will do you just fine. Have a Costco membership? Buy chevron 15w40 and call it good. They hold the patents, and manufacture most of the oil refining equipment used by everyone else, and their oil is very good quality, and cheap since they don't have to pay royalties on their own equipment. GD

Well - I could probably join in on this one. Need to relocate my oil pressure sender, and a tighten up a couple odds and ends. I'll try to be ready. I know some good trails in scapoose, but you unlifted and unlocked types beware - you won't make it without at least lift+locked+MT's. GD

Doubtfull. I'm sure they could make you one tho if you really, really wanted it that way. But why? Just extra weight where there is no need. GD

Catalytic converter should be fine at 150k. Sounds like you are scared to really use the engine. The EA82 makes it's best power around 3500 - 4000 RPM. My 86 sedan (same engine as yours) with 214k on it will do 65 over the mountains if I choose. I generally keep it to 55 myself. You just need to use 3rd gear. Mechanic will take huge advantage of your lack of faith in the ability of the engine to work for you. GD

Yeah - that's one reason I don't go for rebuilds. On the EA81's it's just the opposite. The 2WD uses a smaller shaft diameter and smaller diameter joints. Parts counters do not differentiate at all, so you get what you get. The GCK ones I mentioned for the EA81 are totally BEEF - they are beyond 4WD spec. GD

Replaced sender with another from a loyale (identical looking). No change in guage.... I wonder if this is a victim of the mice? GD

Sure you can - just cut out the bottom of the stock air box to accept the weber instead of the Hitachi, or get one of the weber adaptors that converts to a round filter inlet. This way they will never know what's under there.... like this: GD

Lots of people use Vaseline too - seems to do the job. Engine assembly lube will work as well. Personally I just turn the car on it's side, and hold it there with one hand while I put on the cam case with the other. Gd

Loose t-belts too. GD