GeneralDisorder

Heh - good luck finding one. But yes - same as swapping any other EJ into an EA chassis. BTW - they are only 165 HP stock. Would be easier to find a JDM WRX front clip and put that in ~280 HP. I've always thought a nice swap would be the early JDM EJ20 - it was 150 HP with no turbo. GD

Not sure if that would be a straight swap, but probably could work with some modifications..... Not sure it would hold up to the weight of the SVX tho. Plus if you are going to the trouble of modification, a 5 speed is lighter and does in fact make for a pretty quick SVX I hear. GD

First swap - expect to be out a car for at least 2 weeks to a month. Radiator in your car should work fine - as long as it's in good shape. EJ22 works fine with EA series radiators. GD

Any EJ series... the SVX has the EG33 - 3.3L H6 producing 230 HP. Straight bolt up to any EJ series AWD 5 speed.... You use the legacy pedal assembly, clutch, and stuff - modify the shifter console with a boot instead of the auto plate. It's not terribly hard really. There's a shop in WA that will do the whole conversion for $4,000 including all the parts. If you buy the parts, should come in well under $500. GD

Yes - the mount holes in the cross member need to be slotted about 3/4" wider. Easily done with a file or dremel tool. Other than that, it's pretty simple..... not any harder than converting to a turbo would be anyway. Mostly wireing. GD

Put a 5 speed in the SVX and sell it for 10 times what you pay for it - that will finance a nice project. GD

Still need the entire wireing harness and computer - will also have to fab a new exhaust as it may not come with the downpipe. It will phisically fit in the car - but so would an EJ22, and for the cost of the EJ22 + adaptor plate and drilled flywheel you would get a decent 135 HP instead of the rather wimpy 115 HP of the EA82T. Plus a decent used EJ22 would cost less than a JDM EA82T and all the wireing. GD

Please don't cut the hell out of a Brat just to fit tires - get a lift at the least and do it right. Brat's are rare enough already without people cutting them up and ruining good bodys just to save a couple bucks on a lift. GD

Short answer: No Long answer: If you really wanted to, yes, but you'll basically need a whole donor front clip or car. Just swapping the turbo to your block isn't a reliable solution as your engine is 9.5:1 comp, and the turbo is 7.7:1. Different pistons. Different heads, and different intake. Not to mention the entire wireing harness for the engine and the computer for it.... As for seats - swap anyting you like - just have to weld up your car's mounting rails. I've seen anything from legacy, to toyota MR2, to izuzu. XT and XT6 are possible too, but consider that there are LOTS of seats out there besides Subaru's. GD

Totally depends - I've got at least that much into my lifted wagon. Originally a $400 auction car, I bought another car for 4WD conversion parts, lift, tires, blew the original engine due to lack of oil pressure (no guage on the digidash, and by the time the light was flickering the damage was done), more lift modifications, front/rear custom bumpers, etc, etc. I would have to say I could never get back out of it what it took to build. That's just a fact of life with old cars. Especially heavily modified stuff that is used for play. If you want something to just drive to work and back the best bet is to get a new junker each time you have a major malfunction. Sticking with the same brand and using the old car for parts is a winning combo. I can pick up vehicles for $100 or less and put anywhere from 10k to 100k miles on them for less than $500 if I'm lucky. Say I spend $100 on the car - now I have to fix whatever parked it - usually a couple hundred there - cost to register and get tags is $110 here, so about $500 when it's all said and done. My philisophy can be summed up (I've said this before): "If you drive old cars - own at least two - if possible three, and a AAA membership." GD

Yeah - my engine bay used to be "pretty".... I don't even try anymore. I spend my time making things water/corrosion proof, and vibration/shock proof. To hell with the paint. Haven't washed my wagon in well over a year, and I have no intention of ever doing it.... I'll scrub it before I paint it OD green maybe. Either that or I am considering orange/blue/white camo. Not sure i want to attract that much attention. Likely I'll just get some carc paint from surplus and spray it with a thick layer of OD over black rust prevention. GD

Wire wheel chucked into a drill works very well. Just be careful not to chew into the aluminium too much. GD

Pretty sure you'll find that it IS a 1980 as the GFT hard top I don't beleive existed as a Gen 1 body style. It will be the "EA81" gen 2 body style almost certainly. GD

Dual carb - high compression (9.5:1) 1600. Pushing 77 HP. That's more than a stock US 1800.... only got 73 HP. Interesting. GD

Clutch? GD

I tried turning on the fan - that's what ate the blower motor. With AC, there is no place for the stuff to go when it's on the wrong side of the AC evap core (think AL radiator, but smallish). So it was trapped. Mouse...... correction MICE (too big to be a single occupancy dwelling ) were displaced when I drove it home 20 miles from the guys yard. Gives a new meaning to "mobile home" GD

*edit* - you bought that off another board member didn't ya? It's been to my house before - he bought a hitch from me for either that wagon or his dads wagon - can't recall. Hitch came off my Brat. Ah..... yes well..... mine isn't quite like yours. Mine was originally 2WD actually. Probably would have been a GL-10 if it had the 4WD. Yes - factory sunroof equipped. Be VERY VERY glad you don't have a digi-dash. I converted it to 4WD (I'll never do another one!), and now it's well.... I'll let it speak for itself. The digi-dash blew one day, and I always had a yearning for the 1980-81 orange cluster, so I converted it to analog (never do that again either.... probably. heh). GD

Oh contrare - there are more models out there than you know son. It's probably a dual carb 1600 or something. No on the turbo tho - those came later. Here's some examples from my archive: And these are in my collection: GD

Yeah they do - take the valve cover off and you'll see them on the head. GD

It's not rubber - it's a "carb spacer" and it's made from some kind of fiber-board material. I generally just scrape them clean and use new gaskets on either side of them. If it's broken..... get one from the junk yard. GD

Sounds like a typical EA82 - you realize that engine only has 84 HP right? 90 HP if it's the SPFI engine (fuel injection). If it has a carb, check the vacuum line going the secondary barrel actuator - these are usually cracked, and the secondary won't open at all. Seen that several times. Makes for a very slow car. GD

Don't lose the accelerator pump check ball - they may or may not give you a new one. It's plastic and about the size of a BB. Make sure everything is VERY clean. The hitachi doesn't like any amount of debris in it. replace the float needle and seat - they are hard to get out, but old ones sometimes stick closed randomly. Just stuff I've noticed..... money better spent in my opinion is on a weber or SPFI setup. The price really isn't a lot more if you spend wisely. Get a used weber, order the adaptor, rebuild kit, and proper jets, and it should not cost more than $200 GD

Next time use a peice of rope (small diameter nylon works well), or some thick shoe strings. Seriously, it may take a while to get it on there and tight, but it will work for a few miles in a pinch. GD

Are you getting any codes from the fuel injection computer? It's located under the dash - drivers side kick panel. There is an LED that will flash you the codes. Connect the two green connectors under the hood by the wiper motor near the firewall on the drivers side - this will get you into "test mode" and flash the codes through the computer. Perhaps your coolant temp sensor is on the way out - or your MAF may need cleaning/replacing. Both fairly common. See what the computer says first. GD

Get a remote starter switch from Harbor Frieght for 9.99 and run the cable through the window. Disturbing eh Skip? GD