GeneralDisorder

According to Subaru, 1 quart every 3,000 miles is the spec limit for oil usage. So if you are using that much or less you are within factory specs. Bad PCV valves, or clogged hoses can suck oil into the intake where it will be burnt. GD

I would have to measure, but I think the Gen 2 is a tiny bit longer too. Wider for sure - not as if that matters. Definately sleepable with the seats out. Thanks for the measure. GD

4 spd is 1.45:1, and 5 spd is 1.59:1.... something like that. 5th gear is about the same as 4th on the 4 spd - don't expect to go any faster on the freeway. GD

The XT6 clutch requires the XT6 flywheel, and the release bearing is different than the EA81. You could probably make it work if you figured out a way to adapt the EA82 release bearing to the 4 spd. I've thought about doing this, but the 5 speed is better anyway - nicer shifting, and lower LO range, so personally I would rather use it. But yes - with enough work it could be done. I was thinking about maybe turning the release bearing holder from the EA81 on a lathe and using it as a bushing for the EA82 release assembly. I haven't played with it much tho as I figured it to be a waste of time since I'll be using a 5 speed anyway. GD

hhhmmm - yeah, might just be a GL and up thing now that I think on it. But definately on every GL I've had. Not a lot of DL's still around - no oil pressure guage did em in. GD

Best thing of course is to swap in a 5 speed - then you can use the stock XT6 clutch and flywheel. Stronger PP on that one. Stay away from the ones that have a lip around the PP fingers - they collect mud and will jam the clutch in the engaged position. Other than that, the pressure plate you use is the most important part. Ordering one from the dealer would be good, but probably not too cheap. The NAPA rebuilt clutches seem alright - used a couple of those. GD

The bed of a Brat is quite a bit longer than 4' my new gen friend. A Baja it is NOT. It's well over 5 feet as I recall, and definately over 6 with the tailgate. With the tailgate down, you could sleep in it - if your goal is to be off the wet ground - not going to be terribly warm, but you could string a tarp or a poncho over the bed for a rain-fly. A bit of foam on top of a carefully selected bit of plywood (both for insulation, and to cover the ridges in the bed steel) and you would be good. I'm 6'2", and I would attempt it. GD

Every subaru made from 1980 on (at least that far back - maybe farther) had a lumbar support for the drivers seat. Even stock Brats and the low end EA81 DL's had that. Seriously - take a look when you go to the JY. The Izuzu Impulse seats in my Brat have it too. Pretty common I guess. GD

Being a CA model, this should have the feedback (ECC) carburator system. Does your ECS light come on after driving for a bit? If so read the codes you get from the computer under the drivers side kick panel and get back to us. If the computer does not get you any codes, then likely you have other problems with the feedback system. It's a gigantic mess in there, with vacuum lines and at least 4 vacuum soleniods, various sensors and other junk. I would start with testing the coolant temp sensor (computer output side), and the manifold pressure sensor - both seem to be pretty common failures. I see that you have disconnected the duty solenoids - well have you plugged the ports and the vac lines going to them? Big vacuum leak if you do not. Also - the system is still connected into the vacuum array regardless of the duty solenoids being connected or not - the pressure sensor for example may leak internally and when vacuum is applied to it cause a leak that will lower your idle. Best to just replace your O2 and get the computer working FOR you not against you. It's LED reporting system is there to help you - both to get better mileage and to track down and repair faults. GD

He's smoking crack - he'll never get it. Maybe in un-wrecked condition, or if he parted it out he might get close to that from the parts alone. No one wants it looking like that for more than $100. Not here on the left coast anyway. If it's worth so much, then why doesn't he fix it and drive it himself? God I hate people like that - he should look at KBB - probably not worth much more than $450 before it was munched. Write it off - he's not someone you want to deal with. GD

Coolant runs through the manifold - the manifold gaskets are a common failure item. Usually the coolant leaks into the cylinders and is burnt. Compression check will yeild good results - so he thinks the block is bad. Never seen or heard of a block cracking, and I'll wager no one else here has either. The heads would warp and crack to little bits before the block went. Could be freeze plugs if it froze with water only in it. At any rate - he probably has no clue what is really wrong. As for it being a good deal - that's relative. I just drove away in an 86 5 spd 4WD sedan for $100. Cost more than that to register it. I've been given soobs, and bought them for as little as $1 that drove away. People often don't want them or just plain don't know what they have. Reality is they are near worthless anyway - even KBB gives my wagon (in good to mint condition mind you) a value of no more than $800. GD

Generally speaking, yes. Might have to bend or modify a few things to make it work if it's on an '82 as the bumper mount style bar would be different by a little I think. GD

Holy! Wow you are far away for being in just the next state. Didn't realize Pullman, WA was really somewhere in the south seas.... I wish you luck, and sugest you find a reputable shop.... maybe even consider taking it somewhere farther away that has a reputable shop. I'm sure the WA people will be able to sugest a few. 100 or 200 miles for a decent, correct repair is worth it. Take a grayhound back or rent a car maybe. If the tranny fluid seems low, add a little. Check the clutch cable - it's under your spare tire connected to a blue fork looking device. It should not be loose. If you can move it at all, it should be tightened till it's snug. You can do this yourself with just 10 and 12 mm wrenches, or even a pair of pliers and a small crescent wrench. I've also seen places advertise free clutch adjustment. Have a board member look at it though - and takers? I'm sure if you offer a pack of beer or something someone will drop by and take a look. GD

Broken block? Not likely. Take a look at it first to be sure - Probably something silly like an intake gasket. People have no idea about Subaru's - I see em for sale because the timing belt broke and they think the valves are bent. People - especially texas residents - have no idea about soobs. Ask Calebz - he knows. GD

Owner says it uses coolant right? Most likely the intake manifold gaskets. Easy to do a compression test and see for sure. Like I said - hydro lifter engine so grab it. Just yank the motor in the night and leave that useless body in the yard where it's sitting. You need an alternator too. GD

Previous post is not totally correct. Subaru's are not that bad about rust, but you MUST maintain them if you live in areas that salt the roads. You must get them undercoated every year, and wash them down after driving in the winter. Really it's not that hard. But most have seen better days because they were not cared for - once the rust gets a solid grip on the car it will never let go. As to computer controls - Subaru's stopped using carbs completely after 87. The only computer controlled versions were the 49 states 2WD, and the california models. ALL others were normal carbs with no computer - even in 87. Now - the Hitachi carburator used on the soobs is not a very pretty peice of equipment - they can be finicky - especially with the choke. Best idea is to get a carbed model, and replace the Hitachi with a Weber 32/36 just like the VW's you are familair with. GD

What is that light from? GD

There are shops that can take your tank and refurb it - they pour in a lining to seal it up. If it's not too bad it may be cheaper and easier to go that route. Otherwise there are plenty of people with old ru's out here that have no rust. Tanks out here are as good as new for the most part. GD

pressure plate. GD

Might as well build your own - they never made em for EA82's. Sorry. All that cool stuff went away after 84. GD

Subaru (here in states) sold lots of push bars, brush guards, even winches and such. No - won't fit your 87. Sorry. Could maybe do some welding and modify it tho. GD

Any FWD 5 speed from an 85-89 will do the job. They are all the same. GD

EA82 is your engine type. Grinding going into all gears could be the clutch, but only one gear like that - almost certainly the transmission. Most junk yards will give a 30 day warantee on tranmissions they pull and sell you - ones from the yard (you pull) are just a gamble. As for which car - you can use the 5 speed 2WD from any 85-89 Wagon, Sedan, or Coupe, or from a 90-94 Loyale Wagon or Sedan. NOT from a Legacy. There are lots and lots out there for you, so it shouldn't be hard. Likely someone in your area here on the board will have one tho - like I said they are not desirable due to most people wanting the 4WD. GD

Yep. Not where I got mine - can't find the link, but here is a site: http://www.etoolcart.com/browseproducts/Subaru-Pin-Wrench-Socket---SU-022.HTML This one is a little cheaper: http://shoptoolsshoptools.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=255&cat=Subaru+Tools+ Check shipping prices to be sure tho. Same tool I have I think. Works awesome with an impact. GD

Sure - just unbolt it from the engine, and the trans x-member. Whole thing will just fall out basically. Oh - and the driveline, but that's only a few bolts on the diff. I use a rope around the tailshaft and up through the shifter hole, and then slammed in the door, one person lifting from under the hood with the starter hole, and a myself underneath to manhandle it back into place when you go for the re-install. Not hard at all. Another trick - don't bother with the clutch alignment tool - just loosen the PP and then tighten the bolts through the starter hole. Gd