GeneralDisorder

IIRC, someone found them (aftermarket) for $40'ish each.... that's about $160 for a complete set - I think they are considerably more from the dealer. GD

Here's a direction you can research. I haven't followed it up much, but I did meet, and see in person, a guy who put an air locker from a VW Syncro van differential into an R160 subaru diff. It was on an '82 wagon, and he was a machinist - said it needed some slight modification to be installed, but "wasn't very difficult, and was just the perfect size". Alas, the guy is a real flaky nutball, and i haven't seen nor heard from him in quite some time. The problem is the Syncro's are rare, and the ones with the air lockers are really, really rare. They do exist, and yes they were imported here to the US, so it's possible that this might be done. If I could get ahold of one, I know a machinist that would probably do the deed for me... GD

Not sure on the coolant leak, but the big downfall to the Justy is the oil pump - they need to be replaced at least every 100k or so we hear. GD

This *should* work with 85/86 SPFI, but since the EA81T has the vacuum advance, I'm not totally sure on it's combatibility with a Loyale SPFI system.... I know John (Mudrat) used an EA81T disty for this swap (that's what he claimed anyway - since he oviously isn't interesting in sharing a write up, or even a parts list with the rest of the community ).... I'm just wondering what the vacuum advance will do to the Loyale computer - the loyale gets set with 20 degrees of initial advance, and the computer does the rest right? If the computer does all the work in retarding the spark, then I guess the vac canister could just sit there unused? GD

If you want good-looking old soobs, you have to come out west - just got this one for $100. It was about a week from being sold to the junk man for $35. I drove it home from where it sat in the mans yard for 3 years. No rust of course - he broke the ign. switch, and didn't want to bother fixing it:

Yeah - I had to switch to EA82 DOJ cups to stop that. GD

Replacement is expensive. If you need a Cat, then the best bet is to gut the one in the y-pipe, and add one in place of the "resonator" that is in the straight pipe right behind the y-pipe. You can get aftermarket Cat's on ebay for pretty cheap to use for this. You'll have to find someone to weld it in for you, as most muffler shops in areas that test will not modify a stock setup like that for you. Out in the country where there is no testing you may find someone. Really, you just have to cut the resonator out, and weld the cat in place - not hard at all. As to gutting the stock cat - remove the heat sheild on it, and cut (angle grinder - blue wrench won't work as they are SS) a big flap the size of a slice of bread out, and bend it back to expose the innards. Crush with a screwdriver and hammer and pour into the garbage. Weld it up, and put the heat sheild back in place and you'll never be able to tell it was done. GD

If you have a source for them, I'll take one. Carbs plus manifold that is... GD

The problem is the torsion tubes run at angles to the body, not straight across like the EA81 single tube. Easiest way would be to replace the whole rear end with one from an EA81. This would also give you better axles, etc - and you could effect a 4" lift with just some EA82 rear struts. GD

Depends on a lot of factors that you have not specified - wheel offset, tire size, and do you plan on leaving the sway bars in place? Most of us take them out for better articulation, and easier repair (easier to remove axles without em). I can say that with 5" of lift and 28" tires (15" Chevy rims) with no sway bars my wagons handles fine. The steering is a bit touchy to get used to, but at least the power steering doesn't mind the tire size. It steers very easily, and the tire's tend to walk a bit, so you don't want to go real fast in it. I've done 90, but seriously for safety, 65 should be the top speed on something like my rig. Ride depends on what you are doing to your suspension. Basically the heavier your wheel/tire combo is, the more inertia it will have, and thus the softer your stock suspension will feel. Ride is comfortable for my wagon - loud because of the tread, but not truck-like in it's feel. GD

They are not lit with bulbs, they are inert gas filled "tube" deals - not unlike a neon sign in a way. The color is dictated by the type of gas they are filled with. GD

Ebay - that's where we get em. Or send WJM a message - he can get em as he works for the dealer. GD

Same Kit I bought initially - total rip off if you ask me - doesn't even come with the appropriate throttle cable mount. Not jetted any differently than any other 4 cylinder kit. It just seems like Redline really doesn't give a crap - the EA82 adaptor doesn't properly cover the coolant passage, kits are not well designed, etc. But it will work. I just get used carbs now and rebuild them - much cheaper. But yes - that is the same carb - DGV series, and with the Hitachi, the #3 boot will touch the choke housing. As in it touches hard enough to wear a groove in the rubber of the boot. You could probably slip something in there to try and stop the arcing - which really only happens when it gets wet. Unless your wires are shot. I just switch to the ND disty and all is good for me. Lots of people claim that the advance curve is different, but that simply isn't true. An inspection of the FSM shows all advance curves are the same. REMEMBER - if you change to the ND distributor, you must also change to the ND coil - not doing so will contribute to the failure of your ignitor module in the disty. Probably the most common cause of ignitor failure is installation of aftermarket coils (Accell, MSD, etc) that are not correctly matched with the ignitor. GD

The vac advance (this goes for any distributor), can be rebuilt - I've had several of mine done - cost is about $35 from philbin manufacturing in Portland (they are local to me, but they will ship if you need). A re-bush and vac advance rebuild (they do a great job, paint the vac canister, and shine up the whole unit) will run about $55 to $75 depending on what disty you bring them, and how messed up it is. That is a lot cheaper than getting new parts from anywhere I know of. The hitachi's are more common it seems - I have about 5 of the damn things floating around my parts collection. They were standard on 4WD's. I have at least 3 or 4 ND disty's, and two of those are in use. Another thing I've noticed is the ND disty cap seals much better against water than the Hitachi does. In fact my disty in my lifted wagon has never got wet when treading water. I've never had a module fail in either brand, so can't comment there. They all seem very rugged in that respect. Besides - parts and extra disty's are all over the place, and cheap at yards. GD

Sure - Porsche 930 CV's, and slip-yoke axles would easily get you 20"+ of travel. Now building them and making them work with our diffs and traling arms.... that's another story. Don't think I haven't thought long and hard about this. hehe GD

Definately go with the ND - couple reasons. First, the spark is gives is hotter. The coil and ignitor used with the ND are higher resistance than the Hitachi. Second the ND is NOT less durrable - it's just more precisely machined, and will not tollerate as much slop in the shaft bushings - that does not mean that you can't get a good 150k or more miles from the bushings tho. Plus they can be rebushed for about $35 like any distributor. Third, and possibly most important for some people - the ND cap is one gear tooth farther clockwise than the Hitachi (bet you are confused now!) - this means that the plug wire for #3 does not interfere with the choke on a Weber like it does with the Hitachi. When my Hitachi would get wet, it would arc to the choke housing on the Weber - the ND doesn't as there is a good 1/8" or more between them (Hitachi actually touches the boot). I've run both, and I can say that almost without fail, ND parts are superior to Hitachi. That goes for any electrical system stuff on a Soob. GD

Your attempted humor at my expense is not appreciated I've done more timing belts than you have ever seen in your lifetime pal - so sue me if I get em mixed up sometimes. The point I was making had nothing to do with being 100% accurate - we are having a theoretical discussion in this thread about the EGR system, and why it may or may not be important to a specific engine model. Someone sugested the EA82 was designed with the EGR in mind, and my accersion was the EA82 is simply a logical expansion on the already sucessful EA81 design. What belt drives which accesory is not important to the underlying discussion in *this* thread. Things might be different if we were discussing changing a water pump or timing belt. GD

I can't remember anymore - I could be thinking of the Audi timing belt I did last week. :-\ I remember that the belt covers have to come off to replace it tho. That just makes it MORE like the EA81 tho, not less... and really if you think about it, you can change the accesories and their placement/design all you want - the core engine is the same. The EA81T used the EA82 style power steering pump for example, but NA EA81's used a larger, more clunky setup. GD

EA81 RX models were not imported to the US. Also, they were not Turbo - they were dual-carb. Actually pushing more HP than the EA81T. Turbo was 95 HP, and the dual carb was 108 HP. There were special rally editions with even more insane engines - dual port heads and special carb setups etc. GD

Roller skates - he'll find out real quick about maintaining transportation devices when the wheels fall off. GD

Subaru engines are built for that. The aircraft guys run them at 7,000 rpm all day long. I think breaking point for the rods is up near 11,000 or more. I shift all my engines around 4,000 - 4,500 - sometimes 5,000 or 6,000 frankly. I get 28 Mpg consistently in my Brat - 4WD, with 3.9 diffs. Got 32 mpg in my wagon with a Weber when it was 2WD. Really, you won't hurt it. GD

No Turbo EA81 Sedans, sorry. Only Brat, Coupe, Wagon, and 1 Hatch ('82 prototype - used in the movie Cannon Ball Run). GD

Holy crap! Is that a hole through the aluminium in the head? And it melted the timing belt cover too.... wow. Gotta wonder what went wrong there. GD

Some fuel injection does, yes - in fact all the EA series engines had distributors - Carb, SPFI, MPFI, and Turbo. The Justy is MPFI, and I'm pretty sure it does have a disty. FI is better for mileage, so no problem there. GD

EGR light comes on every 60k - you just have to swap some connectors to clear it. Sorry - not sure which on the EA82. I would check for some vacuum leaks when it wants to die like that. Perhaps something with a thermo-vac valve or something like that. Get a non-feedback Hitachi, or a Weber and just forget messing with that sillty thing. Or the SPFI is a good choice. GD