GeneralDisorder

None - EA82's are wider, and so driveshafts are longer - both front and rear. *edit* What are you trying to do here? I may know a thing or two about swapping ends and joints and such.... GD

You guys should do some more research - all this has been done by Subaru, and the pics are right here on our own site: http://ultimatesubaru.org/80s/projectrudy/rudy.html GD

Hehe - there was a semi-conductor factory located next to a chicken farm a number of years ago. Chickens kept dying mysteriously, and acting really weird. Turns out the factory was producing an ultra-high frequency that happened to coincide with the resonance of the chicken skull cavity. Be glad your Subaru is not capable of this feat.... GD

Stop by a Napa or equivelent and get a 24" peice of 5/8" heater core hose. Put an ear plug in one ear, and use the hose to pinpoint where the noise is comming from under the hood with the other ear. Works great. Typical whining parts are: Alternator, Water Pump, Power Steering, Timing belt tensioners and the idler, Clutch release bearing.... All of the things with bearings in them basically. GD

Vucuum leak in the manifold closest to the cylinders not fireing. When you pull the wire on those cylinders, the engine doesn't change pitch because the vacuum leak is affecting them the most. Explains your rough idle too. Spray around with WD40 to look for a leak. GD

I have no pre-heat tube on my Weber's, or my Hitachi on my other rig - neither have ever done that. But I suppose it's possible - just seems strange that I've never experienced it. GD

Yes - OEM only for t-stat's on Subaru's. Here's why: OEM on the right, crap aftermarket on the left: GD

Oh - I agree, but I've never experienced it on a Subaru in this climate - that's what I meant. With the coolant running through the manifold to the base of the carb they usually don't get that cold. You might check the coolant flow through the manifold, and to the base of the carb. GD

It's an EA81, and while they do last a long time, there are certain things that must be maintained. Driving it for two weeks with a blown HG likely destroyed your vavle stem seals - water in the oil will do this. Each time I drowned my engine with swamp water the oil burning got a little worse. I failed to replace the oil pump (digi-dash - didn't know the pressure), and it threw a rod eventually. I would say that you definately need to rebuild that carb - sounds like it has some issues there. Probably replace your oil pump (easy), and perhaps the vavle stem seals as well (can be done without removing the head). GD

He's in Gresham, and that's very close to me, so I doubt he's experienceing any carb iceing - I mean - it's cold here, but not quite cold enough for that. Coldest it's been here in the morning is about 20. I've not experienced any issues with carb iceing ever in this climate. GD

Heh - neat trick. I'll remember that one for my swap. GD

All the plugs for the cluster are immediately behind it... if you need it, I have diagrams for all that stuff from my '84 fsm. The ignition plug that Skip mentioned is a good one to check - most I've seen are burned - some idiot cut and spliced my "big" juice into an aftermarket alarm system wireing harness. It was sloppy - didn't even use a 3M tap. I had to rip all that out, and repair the harness. I soldered it to be sure of a good connection. The wires to the ign. switch would actually get HOT because it was so borked. GD

Nice - couple questions then - how's the upper radiator hose routing look? The EA82 hose work alright? And what does it look like for the little water passage hoses under the manifold? Just curious. GD

Any progress on this? I'm itching to do it myself, and sell my Weber's! GD

Yep - that's pretty much how most of us have it. Idea is basically to allow the engine to breath, and make sure that any air it takes in goes through a filter. You can do this by putting filters on each valve cover, and on the PCV, but it's easier for most of us to just use the filter we already have. Looks good to me - I have the same setup, and no oil consumption or strange effects from it. If you look hard at the stock routing, you'll see that it's the same idea - just with the addition of a passive carbon canister to capture gasses. GD

Actually, they are something like this: EA81: 1.46:1 (3.9 diff) EA82: 1.52:1 (3.9 diff) EA82T: 1.20:1 (3.7 diff)

Subaru says 1 quart every 3,000 miles is within specs. GD

Thing is - it's not the guage. Test the leads to it at the plugs on the back of the cluster before you replace it. GD

WOW! That's amazing. Kinda neat actually - I assume you have seen the 120 HP justy they took to bonneville right? GD

Then you have the EA82 overhead cam engine. 1.8L They make 95 HP stock. The Weber, and a decent muffler will net you another 5 or 10 perhaps. There is a turbo version of the same engine (different compression ratio, heads, fuel injection, tho, so it's not just a bolt on) that was around 115 stock. Subaru rally cars of the vintage were putting out about 175 or so on that engine. This is not a "performance" car - it was designed to get you there in safety (4WD), and econemy. GD

Front's have the parking brake, so must be turned in while pressing on the cylinder. Removing the bleeder screw helps sometimes I've noticed if they don't want to go in. GD

Different splines, so no. They are the same diameter tho, and that's what allows the 4 spd / 5 spd conversion to be possible. You just keep the right disk for the tranny, and use whichever clutch is appropriate for your application. GD

EA81 or EA82? Rear is the same for both - pull engine, and it's right behind the flywheel. Pretty easy. Front is literally a 15 minute job on the EA81 - just remove the crank pully bolt, slide the pully off, pull the old seal with a screwdriver, and push in the new one. Button it up, tighten the accesory belts - done. EA82 is more involved as you basically are forced to do a timing belt job to get to the front seal... might as well do the belts, tensioners, water pump, oil pump, cam seals, etc, etc when you do the seal. Hehe. GD

I know this is the reccomended procedure, but those of us that have done this a number of times just do it the easy way - drivers side cam mark UP, passenger side mark DOWN - install BOTH belts. Done. No need to be turning anything. Silly japanese repair manuals GD

You have a 1.8L engine.... either an EA81, or EA82 depending... is this a Hatchback (called a "Chaser" up there), or a wagon or what? Does it have a 4 speed or a 5 speed trans? Get a Weber DGV series carb, and put on a little better flowing muffler... short of getting into the engine internals, or swapping to a newer, bigger engine there's not a big list of mods for it really. You have the dual range tranny, so your gearing isn't really condusive to speed either. You could change out the tranny with a turbo 5 speed - they had a lower diff ratio, so a bit sportier. The better idea would be to lift it and find a fun mudhole.... GD