GeneralDisorder

They are not lit with bulbs, they are inert gas filled "tube" deals - not unlike a neon sign in a way. The color is dictated by the type of gas they are filled with. GD

Ebay - that's where we get em. Or send WJM a message - he can get em as he works for the dealer. GD

Same Kit I bought initially - total rip off if you ask me - doesn't even come with the appropriate throttle cable mount. Not jetted any differently than any other 4 cylinder kit. It just seems like Redline really doesn't give a crap - the EA82 adaptor doesn't properly cover the coolant passage, kits are not well designed, etc. But it will work. I just get used carbs now and rebuild them - much cheaper. But yes - that is the same carb - DGV series, and with the Hitachi, the #3 boot will touch the choke housing. As in it touches hard enough to wear a groove in the rubber of the boot. You could probably slip something in there to try and stop the arcing - which really only happens when it gets wet. Unless your wires are shot. I just switch to the ND disty and all is good for me. Lots of people claim that the advance curve is different, but that simply isn't true. An inspection of the FSM shows all advance curves are the same. REMEMBER - if you change to the ND distributor, you must also change to the ND coil - not doing so will contribute to the failure of your ignitor module in the disty. Probably the most common cause of ignitor failure is installation of aftermarket coils (Accell, MSD, etc) that are not correctly matched with the ignitor. GD

The vac advance (this goes for any distributor), can be rebuilt - I've had several of mine done - cost is about $35 from philbin manufacturing in Portland (they are local to me, but they will ship if you need). A re-bush and vac advance rebuild (they do a great job, paint the vac canister, and shine up the whole unit) will run about $55 to $75 depending on what disty you bring them, and how messed up it is. That is a lot cheaper than getting new parts from anywhere I know of. The hitachi's are more common it seems - I have about 5 of the damn things floating around my parts collection. They were standard on 4WD's. I have at least 3 or 4 ND disty's, and two of those are in use. Another thing I've noticed is the ND disty cap seals much better against water than the Hitachi does. In fact my disty in my lifted wagon has never got wet when treading water. I've never had a module fail in either brand, so can't comment there. They all seem very rugged in that respect. Besides - parts and extra disty's are all over the place, and cheap at yards. GD

Sure - Porsche 930 CV's, and slip-yoke axles would easily get you 20"+ of travel. Now building them and making them work with our diffs and traling arms.... that's another story. Don't think I haven't thought long and hard about this. hehe GD

Definately go with the ND - couple reasons. First, the spark is gives is hotter. The coil and ignitor used with the ND are higher resistance than the Hitachi. Second the ND is NOT less durrable - it's just more precisely machined, and will not tollerate as much slop in the shaft bushings - that does not mean that you can't get a good 150k or more miles from the bushings tho. Plus they can be rebushed for about $35 like any distributor. Third, and possibly most important for some people - the ND cap is one gear tooth farther clockwise than the Hitachi (bet you are confused now!) - this means that the plug wire for #3 does not interfere with the choke on a Weber like it does with the Hitachi. When my Hitachi would get wet, it would arc to the choke housing on the Weber - the ND doesn't as there is a good 1/8" or more between them (Hitachi actually touches the boot). I've run both, and I can say that almost without fail, ND parts are superior to Hitachi. That goes for any electrical system stuff on a Soob. GD

Your attempted humor at my expense is not appreciated I've done more timing belts than you have ever seen in your lifetime pal - so sue me if I get em mixed up sometimes. The point I was making had nothing to do with being 100% accurate - we are having a theoretical discussion in this thread about the EGR system, and why it may or may not be important to a specific engine model. Someone sugested the EA82 was designed with the EGR in mind, and my accersion was the EA82 is simply a logical expansion on the already sucessful EA81 design. What belt drives which accesory is not important to the underlying discussion in *this* thread. Things might be different if we were discussing changing a water pump or timing belt. GD

I can't remember anymore - I could be thinking of the Audi timing belt I did last week. :-\ I remember that the belt covers have to come off to replace it tho. That just makes it MORE like the EA81 tho, not less... and really if you think about it, you can change the accesories and their placement/design all you want - the core engine is the same. The EA81T used the EA82 style power steering pump for example, but NA EA81's used a larger, more clunky setup. GD

EA81 RX models were not imported to the US. Also, they were not Turbo - they were dual-carb. Actually pushing more HP than the EA81T. Turbo was 95 HP, and the dual carb was 108 HP. There were special rally editions with even more insane engines - dual port heads and special carb setups etc. GD

Roller skates - he'll find out real quick about maintaining transportation devices when the wheels fall off. GD

Subaru engines are built for that. The aircraft guys run them at 7,000 rpm all day long. I think breaking point for the rods is up near 11,000 or more. I shift all my engines around 4,000 - 4,500 - sometimes 5,000 or 6,000 frankly. I get 28 Mpg consistently in my Brat - 4WD, with 3.9 diffs. Got 32 mpg in my wagon with a Weber when it was 2WD. Really, you won't hurt it. GD

No Turbo EA81 Sedans, sorry. Only Brat, Coupe, Wagon, and 1 Hatch ('82 prototype - used in the movie Cannon Ball Run). GD

Holy crap! Is that a hole through the aluminium in the head? And it melted the timing belt cover too.... wow. Gotta wonder what went wrong there. GD

Some fuel injection does, yes - in fact all the EA series engines had distributors - Carb, SPFI, MPFI, and Turbo. The Justy is MPFI, and I'm pretty sure it does have a disty. FI is better for mileage, so no problem there. GD

EGR light comes on every 60k - you just have to swap some connectors to clear it. Sorry - not sure which on the EA82. I would check for some vacuum leaks when it wants to die like that. Perhaps something with a thermo-vac valve or something like that. Get a non-feedback Hitachi, or a Weber and just forget messing with that sillty thing. Or the SPFI is a good choice. GD

The dual range is superior in most people's opinion. The single range in the pushbutton is high range only, plus the added complication of wiring in the 4WD pushbutton solenoid..... GD

You could, yes - since truck class is basically unlimited you can modify anything you want. But the rampage, and the rabbit would still be eaten alive by the Brat - neither are 4WD - let alone D/R. Interesting that you mention the rampage - saw one just the other day. Weird vehicle, and from what I understand a huge peice of junk. Too bad, they look neat. The Rabbit is work horse for sure - especially with the diesel. GD

Check out the sending unit - they get old and start to leak, and read low. GD

Brat's are cool cause they run (or did last I knew) in truck class. Nothing in the truck world can compete.... there are some supercharged durango's with 350 HP that can give em a run, but largely it's totally unfair as the Brat is a car with a truck bed. GD

Just got a whole donor loyale, so I'll be working on this too in the next couple weeks. I'll write up a conversion manual when it's done. GD

Snag it - those are neat, and fuel injected. It's worth it for the low mileage MPFI engine it has. GD

Well - as for adjustment, there shouldn't be any. Just the idle speed adjustment. The mixture on the Hitachi is controlled by jets that are not adjustable. There is an idle mixture adjustment screw as well, but it will be blocked with a roll-pin preventing adjustment as it is set from the factory where it needs to be. Just start it, and set the idle speed to about 700 - 800 RPM. GD

It's amazing how reliable they really are - just picked up an 86 Sedan that's been in somone's yard for 3 years (under pine trees - yuck). Started right up with a jump and drove 10 miles to my house. Owner broke a screwdriver in the ign. one day when he lost his keys, and just left it. GD

Why do you have to tighten in a star pattern? I have never heard that before. Never done it either, and I've changed a hell of a lot of Subaru clutches. I mean - it's not as if there is a gasket in there, and neither of the parts are aluminium. BTW - cool trick - leave all the PP bolts really loose so the disc can move around in there. No alignment tool needed, just slide the engine on, and tighten the PP bolts through the starter hole. As for re-use, if it was working before..... should still work.... the same does NOT go for the bearings however. Change them as they are cheap and will cause you a headache if you don't. Generally yes, you should just change everything, but in reality, a subaru is not a swiss watch, and we Subaru owners are not the richest in the land. Turn the flywheel? I usually don't. Replace the PP? Unless it's really bad, not me. I generally get a not-to-worn disc from the junk yard, and new bearings. For my off-roader anyway. For my daily I might actually buy a NEW disc. They are reasonably easy to change if you have access to a cherry picker, and usually give ample warning before anything dies completely (bearings can be the naughty exception). GD

You are probably going to have to start looking at factory service manuals for this info - sorry but I don't have any that are appropriate. Thing is, the Subaru PS pumps are near indestructible, and so are the racks. I think that possibly they could outlast the engine and the body of the car several times over. I have never seen or even heard of one failing (not talking XT6 here). It is quite the mystery as to exactly what magic the Subaru gods put into the PS system - probably have a power steering fairy that sprinkles them with magical fairy fluid as they roll off the assembly. GD