GeneralDisorder

On the top front of the engine block - passenger side near the head it should have an "EA81" or "EA71" inside a square - that will tell us a lot. They painted the valve covers, but you could look to see if they have, or had a rectangular sticker in the middle of them. That would be the indication that it has hydrualic lifters. I'm guessing maybe they started with an EA81 turbo, and converted it to a blow-through carb setup. The original EA81T only put out like 95 HP, but JDM engines would have done a lot more. The JDM dual carb was around 108, and the JDM turbo setups for racing were up over 150 I'm sure. The most I've heard from an EA81 was a claim of 200 HP from one of the guys that works for that place that does the dual port aviation engines. I believe that was with the dual port heads, and a blower tho. GD

That would be SPFI then? So does he have the timing at 20 degrees initial advance? The timing should jump - the SPFI computer will give more advance off-idle. Just like a vacuum advance would do with ported vacuum. I say your problem is elsewhere - checked the fuel filter recently? Check the computer for codes, and get back to us. GD

Put the cap on, and point the rotor at the #1 terminal. Rotate it back slightly as you install it so when the gears mesh and it turns it will be pointing at exactly #1. If your cap has no numbers on it, then just point the rotor at the terminal closest to the firewall, and call it good. As long as you have the engine at #1 TDC, and the rotor pointing at one of the terminals, it will work. Just put the plug wires on in the right order. There is a total of 4 ways in which the disy can be installed and work correctly - just have to move the plug wires around. To get #1 TDC, pull the #1 plug, and rotate it till you feel air comming out with your finger - then find the mark on the flywheel. GD

Look at the head - you'll see that three of the holes are recessed deeper than the rest. Yes - clean threads very well, and lightly oil. GD

BPR6ES-11, BPR5ES-11, or BPR7ES-11 Any will work, but the first one is the most common/prefered. GD

Well - the shock inside the strut holds the whole assembly together, and without it, the thing will just fall apart. If you could find a longer strut cartridge tho you might be able to get more travel. Larger springs would help as well. As for longer control arms, the EA82 setup is wider, so you could adapt that for a few more inches of travel. You would need to either modify the axles or use the EA82 hubs and brakes. GD

I don't think EJ18 heads will work on an EJ22..... the valve train is quite different anyway. The lifters are in the head on an 18, and in the rockers on a 22. GD

Only for the rear - the tool is to remove the huge ring nut that holds the bearing in. You can use a coal chisel and hammer to pound it around, it just chews up the nut, and is a lot more difficult. The tool has four protrusions, and can be used with an impact. Takes em right out quick. GD

And do a wet compression test, and hookup some air to the cylinders if you can and listen for it getting out. That will give you an idea of the leaky components. GD

Thanks Skip - means a lot comming from yourself. Your no slouch when it comes to car bits either. I reccon I could learn a thing or two from ya. Now that we have the trans info.... could your brother perhaps give us an idea of the engine and blower configuration. I'm guessing maybe it has an EA81.... perhaps the turbo block - maybe someone with EA81T knowledge will chime in and help to ID the turbo block vs. the NA block without taking it apart. Possible to get some pics with more detail of the engine and it's setup? GD

No - the rear can be either two bearing/race sets and a spacer, or can be a single sealed unit. Either way in every case I've seen, the rear is sold as a unit - per wheel - while the front is sold individually. You have to buy four bearings for the front, and two for the rear. 4 seals per wheel all the way around. They are a different size than the front, are held in differently, and the seals are different. I don't see the similarity other than they are both bearings. Have you ever done one? I've done enough to own the special tool for it.... GD

They can rebuild what you have for about what roo-builders would have cost. GD

The GM swap is all about the mounting - wireing is the same, just a different connector. You can get the GM pigtail either from the junk yard or from a parts counter, and just solder / heat shrink it to the harness and you are golden. Write ups are good, but since there are so many varieties of EA82 out there - inboard/outboard alternator, and so forth, it's really best just to get one, and start trying to jam it in there. You'll figure out something, and as long as you have an angle grinder and drill bits the rest is just using what god gave you (hopefully). GD

EH? Front and rear are very different. GD

Are you sure it's #1 and #4?? Those are on different banks... #1 is passenger side front, and #4 is drivers side rear.... do you mean #1 and #3?? If you mean #1 and #3 then you probably have a failed head gasket. Also - did you do the test properly with all the plugs removed, and the throttle plates open while cranking for at least 5 seconds? I'm suspecting you didn't do the test right as those readings are low, but still similar enough, and high enough to almost rule out a head gasket. usually a blown head gasket will read around 10 - 20 psi, but that depends on how it's blown too. GD

Probably sloppy bearings in the tranny. 83/84 should be identical for the same tranny. And as fas as the stub splines - those are the same for ALL EA81 trannys. Even the auto's and turbo's were the same 23 spline stub. GD

Drop in a GM alt - you'll need to modify the brackets a bit, but it's not all that hard. Just get the alt, and then work the brackets around till you come up with a solution. That's what I've done - EA81 here tho, so gonna be different. XT6 alts are close too, so you might be able to get one - I think those are 90 amp. Still not as much as you can get from a good 120 amp GM unit for a caddy. GD

Perhaps your AC clutch is not engaging. The AC idle-up would then make the idle too high as it is expecting to have to drive the compressor. There should be an AC pressure switch that will not allow the compressor to engage unless the system is pressurized with the correct amount of refrigerant. Perhaps you have sprung a leak. Both fans are supposed to come on with the AC - normal. GD

Tight as you can get it. VW bus rear axle nuts are the same size, and those are spec at 250 Ft/lbs I personally go with a 3 ft breaker, and socket. I jump on that a few times with my 200 lbs, then I take to it with the VW axle nut remover tool. Basicall a hand operated impact. With that I can get em to probably close to 300 Ft/lbs or so. Never had any problems. Lots of others do the same with no ill effect. No torque wrench needed. GD

As I recall, new 84 struts are only like $80 each.... But yes - I think the 81/84 should be the same basically. GD

There is also manual choke adaptors, and all the choke styles will interchange. So really, DGV is the carb. The E, or A mean nothing at all anymore. The new kit carb I got from Redline says DGAV stamped on the alum. it came electric. GD

Pretty sure it's a GL thing - 80 - 83 ish. GD

But they are now going back to chains - the new Audi V8's are all chain drive. I guess they can get something they need from doing that. Better for the customer tho - less maintenace. GD

Entirely possible - the question is do the JDM cars have Subaru on one side? GD

Yes - good call. Use a grade 8 bolt and a definately a lock washer. GD