GeneralDisorder

Um.... because it wouldn't be "power" steering then would it? Power is awesome for off-roading with lifted soobs. Much superior to manual. Not a kludge either - the EA82 pump is the same as the EA81 turbo pump, so not all that strange to consider doing this. GD

Maybe you are missing part of the driveline or one of the axles? Otherwise the other wheel *should* turn. GD

Actually, yes - it's been done. The pump will bolt in, you just have to figure out the belt situation - the alt is used as the tensioner in the EA82, so you may need to measure and find a belt the right size. Just a V belt tho so shouldn't be hard at all. Measure with some string. Might need to find or fabricate the mount for the pump from an EA81T tho.... GD

Stop what you are doing and IMMEDIATELY replace the alt with a known good one. Likely it has failed. The buzzer you hear is warning you of bad voltage to the dash. Most likely tho the dash is blown. Sorry, but there really is no good way to save them - once you let the magic smoke out they are done. Best thing for you is to get an analog cluster and spend a weekend (or five) with wiring diagrams to get it converted over. You'll have to replace the fuel level sender in the tank, and the coolant temp sender in the manifold. I've done it, and it's not terribly difficult, but I used a 1980 cluster because I like the way they look - that made the wireing a lot harder. Get an analog cluster from an 82-84 Subaru GL and it won't be too bad. Finding a good replacement digi is possible, but they are getting very rare, and sometimes go for several hundred $$. GD

Coupe doors too. In fact there were only two types of doors - Brat/Hatch/Coupe, and Sedan/Wagon. I have a coupe door on my Brat now in fact. GD

Yikes! Make sure that stuff is solid - belts won't help you in a crash if the seat comes out of the floor. Bad times. GD

Get a new cap for it too - 82's had the "big" radiator cap - your new one will be the small version (83 on). GD

The 5200 has the same bolt pattern - in fact it is almost the same carb as it was licensed from Weber by holly. It's actually a DFAV not a DGAV, but both have the same mounting pattern. They are basically mirror images of one another. EXCEPT the 5200 has much smaller venturi's. So basically it will bolt on in place of the DGAV, but with the same basic power as the stock Hitachi. Easier to tune and work on, but not at all desireable from a performance standpoint. Stick with the DGV series. GD

When EA81's have rod knocks you most likely won't be able to hear it at all unless the engine is under load. Mine gave a metallic knock when under load (acclerating) but nothing while at idle. One day it just blew - rod went out the top the of the block. Knock got real bad for about half a mile then it blew. I knew it had a little knock, but they don't really give much warning like a V engine does. GD

Lifters generally adopt the wear pattern of the bore they were inside of, and if you put used ones in a different engine (or different bore) you are likely to have a ticking that will never stop. New ones that aren't worn yet are ok, and usually putting them back in the same bore they came from will be fine if they don't tick now. Make SURE you don't mix them up - they will tick. GD

Tan '82 Brat seats - gotta love that lumberjack plaid pattern eh? Heh. On the C/W... the bolts holding the carb to the manifold are notorious for that. Get the carb off, clean them up REALLY good and use some brake cleaner to make sure there is no residue on them. Then you'll have to use some serious loctite on those boys. It's the feedback C/W isn't it? Ouchies - probably due for an O2 sensor change by now. GD

Ok - lets start from the beginning - what math are you using to calculate our mileage? Better yet - how many miles do you get on a tank? GD

Sorry to say it, but you need to check for hydro-carbons in the coolant - just to be 100% sure it's not a blown HG. Run a compression check too. Verify that your head gaskets are good before you dump any more $$ into the cooling system. GD

That's only going to work if the joint is frozen to the stub - I think his problem is getting the clearance to pull it off the stub... taking the joint apart would actually need more clearance than slipping it off the tranny. That is a nice trick that I have used before to replace boots. Drop the y-pipe, and then drop the axle off the tranny - take the inner joint apart and slide new inner and outer boots on. Great if that's all you need to do. Gutting the cat helps to keep the passenger axle boot cool so it won't split too. GD

I get 25 - 28 regularly with a Weber on my EA81 (stock height, 85 Brat). 15 is much to low. I would run a compression check, and read your plugs to get an idea if you are running rich or what's going on. Also make sure you have NO exhaust leaks - that will hit your mileage a bit as well. GD

Awesome for the price man. That's a fine specimin, and a good platform to start with. Toss that topper tho - ugly. Bring it by and we can sort out that vac leak. I have a vacuum guage that should pin point that pretty easy. GD

Possible u-joint failure. Seen that on exploders before. Check them out. GD

That's weird sounding. No clue. Hehe GD

Intake mainfold, valve covers, and oil pan gaskets I always get from the dealer. Much better quality than anything you can get from aftermarket. Usually cheaper too. I know it's weird, but that's the way it seems to work out. GD

Drive it like you stole it. Should be fine. I've done it on occasion. GD

Well - the problem you have is a Justy is transverse, and the 2.2 is not. So unless you are prepared to drop in the 2.2 transmission, modify the entire frame and body to fit it, and then hooptie the suspension from the 2.2 and narrow it down to fit inside the width of the justy body you are stuck. Basically it's far too much work for anyone to really consider it.... guy over on the old-gen board was doing something along these lines building a custom rally racer, but I think he's been working on it for a couple years now and it still don't move. I'm not saying it's impossible, but the amount of work involved would be tremendous, and the frankenstien creation that it would become is scary to think about. Ok - so I saw the videos of the WRX Justy... that's insane. But hey - go for it. Get a welder and a plasma cutter to start with. And expect to drop some coin on custom axles and stuff. GD

I do get some strange looks from the salesmen driving by in the Brat. The parts guys (and one girl) enjoy it tho. One of them has an '82 4WD wagon still, and they have been there so long they actually know a lot of the common EA81/EA82 part numbers without looking them up. GD

Sounds like we have quite a few people around. We'll have to work on getting people lifted that aren't cause I'm (as some other here know) certifiably insane when it comes to mud, water, rocks, trees, and well anything I can get at really. My wagon has enough body damage to speak for itself now, and I haven't washed it in over a year - no point as the paint was thrashed long ago. It's a rare wheeling trip that I don't break, bend or otherwise damage something. Hope you all have 2nd vehicles for daily drivers, cause sometimes people don't go home under their own power GD

Something I've noticed about the EA82's... a vacuum leak will give a similar result at idle for whichever bank it's closer to. Try pulling the plug wires at 2k RPM and see if you hear a change. No change at idle could just be a forgotton vac line. Something I've run into before. And yes - compression check is the FIRST order of business after doing the above.... GD

The pumps do have different part numbers, but they both work on the engine side the same. Only difference is the fan I believe. Looks like you have to remove it anway, so try it and see. GD