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GeneralDisorder

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Everything posted by GeneralDisorder

  1. Actually - I have a HF MIG box - works quite well for the light duty stuff. I wanted a small MIG that would be 110, and could use flux-cored to be as portable as possible. Doesn't need any special circuit - runs off any outlet like a vacuum cleaner. Perfect for exhaust work - tack welding while test fitting things. Just nice to have as an extra setup. I noticed that I can literally weld with it in a T-shirt as it makes very little splatter. Pretty neat. Not much use for anything over 1/8" tho. I have a miller 220 with gas for that - or the blue wrench. GD
  2. It can be a real pain - between dropping the rear end out of the way, and getting the filler tube, and all the lines off it, it's got to be one of the messiest underside jobs on a soob. GD
  3. How about a mechanical hand that flips over and slaps the driver? Or perhaps pass the coil current through some plates on the steering wheel? GD
  4. My guess is that it's some sort of evap canister. Basically to trap wayward gasoline vapor from the tank. One solution would be to purchase a vented fuel tank cap and then as you sugested plug all the lines and rip the sucker out. Other ideas.... well I would clean up the area where you broke that fitting off, and probably make up a new fitting - can't weld down there without taking the tank off the car, and treating it first, so I would sugest a careful application of JB Weld - it is impervious to fuel, and real strong stuff when used for the right application. Other option.... perhaps use a low-speed drill and tap it for a nipple of some sort - have to look around at what's availible. Have to use your imagination. GD
  5. Well - that's an EA82 without PS - which is not common. Mostly the carb has to be turned around the other way so the elec. choke doesn't hit the PS pump. GD
  6. If that were true, then haveing the EGR turned off during warm up would cause pinging - which it does not. Plus the vacuum advance curve for these engines is the same as it was before they started adding EGR. A happy upgrade to the EA71 in the Gen 1's is to use the EA81 breakerless distributor. The EGR on an EA81/EA82 is there for emissions only - just as it was in 1973 when first introduced by GM. Most people disabled those as well since they made the engine run like crud. I have run both with, and without it - Weber and Hitachi. No difference that I could notice, and I have a vacuum pump and guage to verify that the EGR is working properly. Not to mention I can see it open when I rev the engine. And I know what pinging sounds like. GD
  7. There is no valve adjustment for EA82's. The hydraulic lifters are there in place of adjusters. GD
  8. Interesting thing I've noticed - the non-digi's do that too. The more accesories I turn on in the Brat, the higher the temp guage goes, and the higher my fuel guage goes. Turn stuff off, and I lose heat, and fuel. Hehe. Has to do with the voltage being routed through the sending unit - more accesories = lower voltage for other stuff. Bad grounds will certainly make the problem worse/noticeable. Hey Skip - where do you find a listing of the ground locations? Or do you just know from experience? GD
  9. Drill some holes in the airbox? Try it with just the box and no filter to test the filter flow idea.... dunno - the SPFI should need more air than a carbed block, so it shouldn't make too much difference.... although the ECU on the SPFI has the ability to know the airflow from the meter, and adjust fuel accordingly.... Lots to consider, and tests to be run I think. GD
  10. Yeah - could have keys cut, but then I would have to replace all the locks for them to match. Too much hassle - I just want to get it HERE and deal with all that. I would rather break the thing and get it here - then mess with replaceing the column and cutting keys and yada, yada. Yeah - the foster yard is a little lax about that sometimes - I have a switch from an 88 hatch on my parts shelves from there with the key. A rare find here tho, so not something I can expect to find is what I meant. Writing down the VIN is a nice idea tho - hadn't considered that the dealer would do it if they can verify the car is deceased. Oh and Torxxx - would love to come to Alaska sometime. Going to Cuba first tho. GD
  11. Yeah - probably just dirty jets then. Very common on old Hitachi's. Not sure how that crap gets in there, but it sure is annoying. GD
  12. Naru - I agree with what you are saying completely, however. EA81 and EA82 carbed engines have no computer control at all. You are right that the EGR if properly and accurately controlled, can yeild improvements in both performance and econemy. The hard truth however for these engines is that no EGR control is performed at all. They receive ported vacuum from the carb routed first through a therm vacuum valve to keep it from being used while the engine is still cold. Basically what I'm saying is that your are correct, but that it simply does not apply to many early subaru's due to their lack of software control over the system in question. The early SPFI systems didn't do anything with it either. Their sensors do not include anything to sense or control the EGR valve - only an EGR solenoid to once again turn it on once operating temp is reached. The whole ODBI, ODBII thing is just silly since none of this gen of Subaru's are complient. GD
  13. And that's exactly WHY the DFV works better - the adaptor plate for the Weber to the EA82 manifold is opposite to the one for the EA81, so with a DGV on the EA82 the cable has to reach around to the other side of the carb DFV it does not. GD
  14. Depends on which Weber you use tho - DFV or DGV series. Both are good, but the DFV series is an easier fit to the EA82 due in part to the throttle linkage, and the PS pump. Make no mistake tho - Either one can be fit with relative ease. GD
  15. TROG is right - use the LOWEST grade of fuel you can without pre-ignition. Lower octane means more BTU's per gallon of fuel. If you can run the stock 8 degrees with 87 octane and no ping, then do it. Adding more octane needlessly will hurt your performance as the anti-knock qualities of the fuel also reduce the power they deliver. You could up the octane, but only do it if you intend to increase the timing beyond spec in order to gain that extra hot top end... note that this high timing level will only be acheived under hard acceleration when the vac advance is fully open. Under anything but full throttle, the timing is not advanced suffieciently to cause ping with any grade of fuel, so unless you are doing a lot of racing, your wallet will thank you for getting plain old regular. GD
  16. One interesting thing of note here - any EA81 or EA82 starter will work (EJ too I think). Personally I go for the ones from automatics as they are gear reduction units, and spin quite a bit faster. I just like em better - easier to start with the faster crank speed. GD
  17. Couple things you should always carry - a bit of plywood for a jacking platform, and some carpet. Using the stock scissor jack sucks, but it will get you high enough to put the carpet under the wheels. Usually works quite well unless you have dug deep enough to bottom out the body. The suction you get from having the floor pan in the goop is too much - have to start digging at that point. Sounds like you had a good time anyway tho. GD
  18. A Junk Yard that keeps the keys? Surely you jest. HAHAHAHA. No such creature in these parts. GD
  19. So they do have slots in those bolts? I know the EA81 ones are break-off's so they don't have a head at all. Real pita. I'll give it a go tho. He does have the keys (found them after the fact), so if I can salvage the lock a smith might be able to ressurect it with new guts. GD
  20. You have a 2600 lb car with a 90 HP 1.8L.... with losses, I think 70 WHP would be amazing. At any rate, just don't try to pass anyone.... especially if it's an automatic. A Weber carb and better flowing muffler can help a bit - makes it feel faster from a dead stop anyway. Doesn't do much for top-end tho. GD
  21. Well - since the dash lit up like that, I would say good chance your alternator has passed on. On the bright side it's a relatively easy fix, and not difficult to get to at all. Inspect the belt(s) for damage too. GD
  22. That really shouldn't matter - most of us run 87 daily and are just fine. It's all about setting your timing right. With shaved heads, I run at about 6.5 - 7 degrees instead of the stock 8. GD
  23. You ever rebuilt one of these before? Just want to make sure you know what your are getting into..... As for the Brand.... Discount import is probably a good choice - they are usually cheaper then everyone else anyway, and as far as the kits go, they all seem equally crappy. (One reason I went to the Weber). If you really want to know the best - I say call CCR in colorado and ask them where to source the parts. GD
  24. Buying an EA82 sedan from someone who broke a screwdriver off in the ignition trying to start it after losing his keys Driving it back to my place would be the obvious choice, but I've never had the column covers off an EA82, so not entirely sure what to expect. I do want whatever I damage to be semi-repairable, but I'm not above using a chisel and a hammer if need be. So what say ye? How shall I remove the ignition lock in a quick and dirty way? I'll pull the covers, and the steering wheel... what should I see in there and how do I bork it? I'm always posting on how to fix stuff.... isn't it ironic that I have a question about how to break stuff? GD
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